Adventures in Japan & Other Cool Places!

Travel Blog - Hey everyone, Brittany here. You made it! Thanks for visiting our page. My better half, Rob, and I are excited to tell everyone about our crazy life in Japan as well as our post-Japan travels. Living in Japan for two years gave us a new perspective on life and started the flame for our love of travel. 

[tokyotwosome]

 ¡Viva Mexico!

Since becoming parents last year, we had taken a pause on international travel. That is, until this week! We decided to celebrate our 10-year wedding anniversary in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. In our first 10 years, we've spent each anniversary doing some form of travel, most of which I've blogged about:

2015 - Tokyo, Japan (just moved there)

2016 - Tokyo Japan

2017 - Okinawa, Japan

2018 - Paris, France

2019 - United Kingdom (England/Scotland)

2020 - Hoh National Rainforest (WA state)

2021 - Tennessee/N. Carolina/New York City

2022 - Oahu, Hawaii

2023 - Local dinner (because new baby)

2024 - Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

While our 15-month-old toddler stayed home spending quality time with his auntie and Opa, we were living it up on the beach. Travelling together abroad feels like riding a bike and what better place to restart our travel adventures than Mexico.

We arrived in Puerto Vallarta on our anniversary and opted for a charming penthouse apartment right on the beach. We’ve always enjoyed traveling this way so we can experience the local life as much as possible. The first country outside the US that I ever visited was Mexico when I was 16-years-old, specifically Ensanada, where my love of the culture truly became evident. As someone who identifies as Hispanic/Latina, being in Mexico has a way of making me feel at home. The people, the food, the music…there’s so much to love about it here. We arrived on a stormy afternoon; apparently, it’s monsoon season? Missed that memo, but what can you do? We had dinner reservations at Mar y Vino, an upper scale restaurant where tables sit within a small pool to dip your feet in while you enjoy your decadent dinner. Since the storm came in with vengeance, the rain was coming down in dime-size drops as the cracking of thunder and flashes of lightning engulfed the sky. We took a taxi to the restaurant to avoid the downpour but were disappointed to arrive and learn they closed the pool section of the restaurant due to the encroaching storm. All that to say, we rolled with the punches and made the most out of it. At least the food was delicious, especially Rob's freshly caught red snapper.

We absolutely loved the apartment we stayed in! It was right on the beach and just a short walk away from the Malecón (the boardwalk). The best part was having our own private rooftop, complete with a plunge pool, hammocks, an outdoor bar, and a perfect balcony for people watching. We even had an evening where a pirate ship shot off fireworks not too far away from us, giving us a private rooftop show. We were grateful that we managed to fit in equal parts adventure with relaxation. Just what the doctor ordered!

Walking and exploring is one of our favorite pass times, so the next morning we woke up and ventured out to find a place to eat breakfast. A trick we learned in Japan is, avoid the main streets since they tend to be tourist traps. If you go just one or two streets over, you can often find cheaper and tastier options. We visited a hole-in-the-wall of a restaurant called "Cafe de Olla" (a name referring to Mexican spiced coffee) and it did not disappoint! Not a single person spoke English, that includes the staff and their customers, so we knew it would be delicious. We made it a point to only use Spanish as much as possible, so a place like this was a great place to practice. Rob had huevos con jamón (eggs and ham) served with beans and fresh tortillas. Para mi, I opted for chilaquiles con pollo. It was sooooo good! Just like the name promises, the coffee had a hint of spice (cinnamon) that even Rob enjoyed. We also ordered fresh OJ. The fresh juice is something you never get sick of. It's refreshing, not too sweet, and doesn't get more organic than that. As we ate, we also saw restaurant staff walking around offering fresh pan (bread) to guests. Once we finished and began making our way out, we saw a massive line out the door. This place was popular!

We spent our first full day just walking around, exploring the city, then relaxing on the balcony of our Airbnb. The balcony had a great view of the beach and ocean; perfect for people watching. We had hammocks, lounge chairs, and a plunge pool to cool off. We were grateful that the weather held up for us and that we had some much needed down time. At night, we went to another fancy restaurant complete with our own waiter (just for our table) and our own mixologist. For dessert, they served us Guava cheesecake for our anniversary. Such a treat!

The next morning, we started our day with breakfast and jet skiing right on the beach by where we stayed. The jet ski guys told us to have a seat in two chairs under an umbrella while we waited as it was a particularly hot day. Then they asked us if we needed anything. "Do you need a beer? Drugs? We have marijuana, cocaine, whatever you want." They then proceeded to have their guy show us the drugs. We told him no thanks as we awkwardly waited to get out on the water. It wouldn't be the last time we'd be offered drugs on our trip, haha. Only in Mexico, I suppose *shrug*. After our jet skiing, we went back to the Airbnb to clean up then went for a walk to find lunch. I was craving birria tacos, so we found another hole in the wall spot. The food hit just right and the flavor had me moaning in pleasure. Yes, it was that good! That day we got couples massages at a local spa. The owner asked us "Where you from, Seattle?" How she guessed that is beyond us, given we didn't have anything on our clothing that indicated this. It was an incredible massage and the owner's staff is her family - Metamorfosis Spa if you're ever visiting. Following the massage, on our walk back, I got my hair braided and added some pink flair as we walked around town. For dinner, we decided to eat on the beach at the restaurant below our Airbnb. We ate delicious food as we watched the sun set.

Our final full day we had scheduled an island tour. This was definitely the highlight of our trip, although we hadn't anticipated it to be. The tour included a boat ride to the Marietas islands, snorkeling, a visit to a hidden beach, complete with lunch and all you can drink juice or alcohol on the boat. They even took pictures throughout the day that you could purchase at the end. Totally worth it!

The snorkeling was incredible! We saw countless tropical fish, but even saw a few things we'd never seen before. The tour guide found an octopus in the water, picked it up to show us, then when he released it, it inked in the water. We also saw a puffer fish, which was a bit scary, but still cool to see in the wild. Thankfully it wasn't puffed up, but those fish are fast! We then lined up to get back on the boat as we noticed some folks had baby crabs on their life jackets. Once back on the boat, they took us to the hidden beach which was basically paradise. The water was even more clear, they had a full bar with places to lounge, and gave everyone time to drink, swim, paddleboard, kayak, or just relax. The tour was so worth the cost and 10/10 would recommend.

A personal highlight of the trip for me was feeling validated as a Latina. Not being fluent in Spanish, looking white, I've always felt like I have to prove how Latina I am in the states. While in Mexico, people would only speak English to Rob, but they spoke Spanish to me. I can't describe how happy that made me. That night we found another hole in the wall with abuelas in the kitchen. We knew it would be good based on the massive line we saw out the door (only Latinos) and the food did not disappoint! We ended our last night checking off one thing from my bucket list - singing Spanish karaoke in Mexico. We found a local karaoke bar where I opted to sing Nunca es Suficiente by Los Angeles Azules, along with some Bad Bunny and Selena. I couldn't stop smiling and I think I even impressed Rob, which is not easy to do after 10 years of marriage.

This trip was so needed and such a great way to celebrate our decade of marriage. I am so grateful to our family for allowing us time to do this and taking care of baby boy while we were away. Mommy and daddy desperately needed this and we had the absolute best time. Here's to many decades to come!

[tokyotwosome]

The Garden Isle: Kauai, Hawai'i

28 MAY 2021

Welcome to Hawai’i - America’s paradise of the Pacific. It’s the home of beaches, tropical drinks, and rainbows. For many, Maui and Oahu are the typical stopping points for this high demand travel destination. Each island has its own charm and purpose for visiting. For instance, Maui has the road to Hana and Oahu has Waikiki beach. Kauai, however, is Hawai’i’s best kept secret. This island is an oasis away from the hustle and bustle of its island counterparts. A less developed, nature-filled island full of breathtaking landscapes and far from the reach of large crowds. It’s an island where everyone knows everyone and is complete with varying climates depending on which part you venture to. For Rob, Kauai was his first trip to Hawai’i, thus setting his Hawai’ian bar so high as to damper any possibility of an enjoyable trip on any other island. Flying into Kauai is like soaring through a dark cave. It lacks the countless city lights illuminating the island with only the moon and stars to light the way.  

Our first stop was a nature hike up the Na Pali-Kona Forest Reserve. A short drive to the top, parking on the side of the road, then escaping into the forest, hiking up cliffs and through greenery. Once to the top, you can see a view of the ocean and cliffsides like a scene out of a prehistoric film. Apart from birds chirping through the trees, its just you and mother nature. After weaving our way back, our next stop was Waimea Canyon State Park. It’s a breathtaking view just off the highway and certainly worth a quick stop. And what better way to wrap up the day than visiting Poipu Beach to drink beer, soak up some rays, and swim with the sea turtles. The sound of the crashing waves is enough to rock a person to sleep. Feeling famished? Stop by the hot dog shop across the street for a delicious Hawai’ian dog. You can also stop for some shaved iced, which often comes with ice-cream or milk and topped with macadamia nuts. A delicious Hawai’ian feast and live music isn’t a bad way to end the night. Don’t forget to watch sunset, a sight you won’t want to miss.

The amount of activities Kauai has to offer is endless. For us, Day 2 consisted of an ATV tour and a rum tour. If you enjoy riding in sports vehicles while getting a history tour, then the ATV tour is where it’s at. Each group drove their own 4-person ATV as we lined up through the jungle stopping at various spots. We drove through man-made tunnels, walked through a WWII bunker, stopped at sites where major motion pictures were filmed, with our last stop at a waterfall swimming hole. If a little mud on your clothes doesn’t bother you, then add this to your must-do list!

Never haven experienced a rum tour, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect. Hopping on an open-air bus with a dozen folks or so, the driver took us into the jungle. As he drove us through the fruit plantations, he explained what each patch was. There were bushes and trees of various fruits like pineapples, bananas, avocados, and even a cross between an orange and a lime. The latter of which he plucked to take with us for our drinks. We stopped in the middle of the jungle where a boardwalk led us to a pavilion surrounded by trees and vines galore. With him he brought various flavors of rum for the group to try. To get the group comfortable, he and his partner cracked jokes about the people visiting. Can you really get upset with him if he pokes fun at EVERYONE? The group was laughing and enjoying the spectacle as he explained each type of rum. After taste-testing a few, he made us fresh Mai Tais for us all to enjoy. As someone who has never been a huge fan of Mai Tais, this tour converted me. Once you realize that the type of rum makes all the difference, then you can appreciate the drink for what it really is. We made another stop further on the tour where he gave us all a “Passionate Screw” (aka a Passionfruit Screwdriver) including a Tajin rim.

Our last full day (did I mention this was a short trip?) took us on the river with paddleboards where we paddled our way to waterfalls. This self-guided tour had two paths to explore. We made our way to a drop off point that led us walking through corn-stalk like grasses, through rivers, and up man-made boardwalks. Through the jungle we traveled until we eventually came upon the most breathtaking waterfall I’d ever seen. This was the epitome of a waterfall you’d expect to see in Hawai’i with no one around and water falling from roughly 100 feet overhead. It felt like we discovered paradise. And for 10 min of our day, we had it all to ourselves. Before flying home, we had one last meal in paradise and one last listen to those ocean waves crashing. A short trip, but a trip worthwhile. 

[tokyotwosome]

Real Freedom Lies in Wilderness

11 FEB 2021

          It is easy to forget the hustle and bustle of the city in a cabin in the woods. Nature is so powerful that it can quite literally snap you out of a mundane state-of-mind and remind you why life is worth living. The crispness of the air, the sound of the river playfully splashing and flowing through rock and pebble, or the stillness that Nature so naturally brings can be enough to make a person want to quit their day job and live off the land. That is the feeling that a place like Index, Washington helps remind you of. The mountains cascading all around naturally envelope you in a tranquil paradise far, far away from life’s relentless stressors. It’s the type of place that can help you forget about the responsibilities of our daily cycle. I could stay here for a lifetime and remain fulfilled. Henry David Thoreau said it best in his book Walden, “Every morning was a cheerful invitation to make my life of equal simplicity, and I may say innocence, with Nature herself.” 

Walking through the trails of trees felt like a fairy tale. The mossy green branches hang above your head like arms of an ancient monolith waiting to pick you up and take you on his adventures. In the winter time, there are no bird songs to be heard but the quiet stillness has a way of calming the mind. It makes you want to keep quiet and just listen. What story does she [Nature] want to tell? What secrets does she hold within? Where does she want to take you or guide you? And how can we best show our respect to all her glory?

As a child I remember the desire that burned within when discovering a mushroom on the ground - the desire to stomp on the helpless fungi and watch has he collapses within like a deflated tire. Now when I see something like the mushroom above, all I hope to do is study and appreciate it. Taking mental note of its design and coloration; admiring its size and appreciating its will to grow and survive in the wilderness. His disc-like cap and his marble-esque stem....How completely perfect he is. 

You know that feeling when you have no where better to be? No plans. No agenda. No meetings. Just you and nature. That is where true bliss lives. In a place that helps recharge your mind, body, and soul. If only we could put her in a tiny globe and take her with us wherever we go, then perhaps we wouldn’t forget that feeling. 

Stacking rocks can help one experience real balance. Balance within and balance in life. Knowing how and when to find your balance is a skill that not so many of us have acquired. In order to find that balance we must listen to ourselves. Sounds simple enough, yet so many of us ignore our inner voice. We become so busy in our day to day lives that we forget that our body and mind has a way of telling us what we need and when we need it. Why is it so hard to listen to this voice sometimes? Nature has a way of forcing us to listen. Of stopping for just a moment and listening within so that we can seek balance in our life. 

Today is a gift. It’s the queen of clichés but deserving of the crown for it is life’s most eternal truth. Forgetting that lesson is not an option if we are to live in the present and forget about the endless chaos that is out of our grip of control. That is what I remember as I walk through trails and skip rocks on the river. To treasure this moment like my life depends on it...because it does. 

[tokyotwosome]

Good Morning, Vietnam!

We arrived to Ho Chi Minh city on the evening of Sunday, February 2, 2020. We had just flown in from Narita Airport, after spending a week in Tokyo. Our first trip back to Asia and we packed it full of visiting old friends throughout Tokyo. Rob did manage a business trip in Tachikawa...but that’s a story for another time. We’d heard that my baby brother (Eric) and his girlfriend (Carol) would be spending the Lunar New Year in Vietnam with her family. This would be the first time Eric would meet Carol’s entire extended Vietnamese family. This would be the first time he’d visit a foreign land. It goes without saying that Vietnam is unique. It’s vibrancy and beauty come from it’s abundantly rich culture. Though, the idea of my small-town brother visiting made me a bit nervous. The two of them had already spent a few weeks acclimating and travelling North to South, as she had family in both regions. Waiting outside the airport stood Eric, Carol, and “Uncle Phi”. When my brother greeted me, he looked like someone who had spent the last five years living in Vietnam. His look, his posture, and his accent had all changed a bit. It wasn’t the last time he’d surprise me during this trip. As we drove through the city, he and his girlfriend told us about Vietnam’s midday nap time, where all businesses close for a few hours as people throughout Vietnam sleep during the hottest time of the day. The streets were lit up with thousands upon thousands of mopeds. It didn’t appear that anyone was following any established laws, but rather an unwritten chaotic code. The intersections of cars and mopeds seem to flow like two merging creeks into a river delta. Chaos to the naked eye, but actually fluid. It was as if they were moments away from a collision, only there never was. Horns went off consistently, as it was used to notify other drivers. It was just a glimpse into the harmony of a new world that we were anxious to explore. 

[Rob & my brother enjoying a Saigon beer in Uncle Phi’s home.]

During our stay, we bunked up at Uncle Phi’s home. Uncle Phi spoke English quite well, as we struggled to switch our brains out of Japanese. When we arrived to his home, we were greeted with vaulted ceilings and beautifully decorated walls. There were family photos hanging in the foyer, where you take off your shoes. We walked into his home and were immediately greeted by his wife cooking in the kitchen. The aroma in the air smelled incredible, but naturally was something she had just quickly thrown together. This level of hospitality made us feel like we were a part of the family. It didn’t take long for exhaustion to set in. To sleep we went on the floor mats of the children’s room, off to dream about what type of mischief we’d get into tomorrow. 

The following morning, the family hopped on a rented bus that was bound for the beach. During our travels, we quickly learned that alcohol is encouraged while in the moving vehicle. The word for “cheers” is yo! Next thing we know, we’re headed for a city named Vũng Tàu and yelling yo along the way. Watching how everyone drives in Vietnam was a whole new experience. At one point, we saw a mother driving a moped, with an infant in the middle, and dad in the back peeling a hard-boiled egg. ON THE HIGHWAY! It was pretty impressive what people could fit on their bikes or what kinds of activities they could do whilst driving on a major highway.

The beach city was just what we needed. The warm air and salty ocean smell had us feeling like we’d made it to paradise. The family reserved a villa just a few blocks from the beach. One of the most impressive aspects of Vietnam is their diet. All food is killed the day it is consumed. Whether you’re having chicken or fish, you best believe you’re going to first buy it either alive or caught that morning. It’s no wonder the people of Vietnam are so healthy when they have a diet like this. 

The fish markets were impressive, but not as impressive as the family’s ability to know exactly what they need for the evening’s feast. Eric (pictured above) has never been much of a seafood connoisseur. By the time he left Vietnam, he had tried so many different types of fish and meat, he’d lost count. When the food is fresh and prepared properly, the flavor is unbeatable. 

The spread was out of this world. No judgement allowed here folks, but I’ve never been one to love seafood myself, but even I was drooling over the impressive options before us - clams, mussels, shrimp, crabs, you name it. The women in the family spent hours cooking and preparing for the evening. If I didn’t know any better, I would’ve guessed that they were all the head chef of their own restaurant. It’s not uncommon to place all the food scattered in a circle on the floor. The family comes together to eat the buffet, drink, and relax after a long day’s journey.

Spending time at the beach was glorious. The weather in Tokyo had been cold and wintry, so this warm breeze was just what we needed. It was remarkable to see how seriously Vietnam was already taking Coronavirus. Schools were already shut down by early February. Some buildings wouldn’t allow you in their elevator without a mask. We wore masks when in large public areas. So once we made it to the beach, it was like setting a bald eagle free from its cage. Breathing in that fresh breeze air and sinking our toes in the sand was a freeing moment. Carol’s dad grabbed a crab and put it in his teeth like it was a trick he’d done before. We really enjoyed getting to know Carol’s family while they showed us around. Even with our trip being brief, we got to see so much. 

One afternoon, we took a bus out to a farm within the jungle that was also a restaurant. Having a family that is taking you along their journey is one of the best ways to experience a culture. We ended up on what was seemingly a grapefruit farm. Only, the fruit’s shell was green in color and much larger than any grapefruit I’d ever seen. It’s known as bưởi, or pomelo. Further within the trees stood a small shop, including a boat restaurant. The restaurant served all varieties of food, but specialized in menu items made from bưởi. We sat on a floating restaurant on the water, as we all ate and enjoyed ourselves. 

Our final time spent in Vietnam was in the city that is still commonly referred to as Saigon. Our hotel had a rooftop pool that overlooked the city and the markets were enriched with tourists from around the world. We witnessed a waitress delivering pho via moped. So much to see in just a few short days spent in Vietnam. As we walked through the markets, I witnessed my brother speaking what little Vietnamese he knew and haggling prices with the market owners. It was a funny yet impressive sight to see. 

While we only had a few short days to visit the wonders of Vietnam, I could tell in our short time there that it was a place worth exploring. We already hope to go back to explore the river markets and journey up towards the northern part of the country. It’s yet another reminder of the big beautiful world we live in. There are so many places to see and such little time to see them. This has been a strange year full of difficulties, but one thing is for sure...travelling is a great way to gain empathy and understanding of other cultures and lifestyles. I can’t wait for our next trip to Vietnam! It may be a while before we can fly outside of the states, but our memories of our travels help us push through.

[tokyotwosome]

Scotland: A Rainy Gem

7/30/2019 - Driving through England and making our way north to Edinburgh was thrilling - literally I couldn’t stop smiling. One look at the architecture and you knew you’d crossed into a new world. Though England had its own set of charm, Scotland had us feeling more at home. The gray clouds danced above, giving us the uncertainty of wetness to follow. Sound like Seattle? After our long journey, we decided to park our car and make our way to the airbnb, a small apartment in the heart of Edinburgh. After dropping off our luggage, we immediately felt the urge to grab a glass of scotch at a nearby pub. So that’s exactly what we did. We ordered two doubles on the rocks (which we would later learn is NOT the way to drink scotch). All the same, our first sip of scotch in Scotland did not disappoint.  

The people in Scotland are rougher around the edges, in a good way! We had felt so barbaric in England; like a couple of Americans learning not to slouch at the dinner table for the first time. Scotland was different. I felt like these were MY PEOPLE. These are the type of folks you can have a drink with and talk about whatever is on your mind without fear of hidden judgement. If there is judgement, they’ll tell you upfront. It was refreshing! 

Walking through the city, you saw a mix of locals and tourists. You can spot the locals out from their dark-scale clothing and their lack of excitement. The tourists look like they just walked into Disneyland (that was us). We walked down cobble roads with gothic architecture throughout. Occasionally, you’d hear a man playing bagpipes in the streets for tourists. We watched one fellow playing, wearing his full piper attire, kilt and all. This guy had a knife in his sock, so you know he meant business! 

Edinburgh Castle can be seen up on a high hill. We ventured our way up, to see the castle up close. We decided not to pay the fee to enter the castle and instead opted to do a scotch tour. Next to Edinburgh Castle is The Scotch Whisky Experience. This place is home to the largest Scotch collection in the world. The tour fee was not too bad and the tour itself was remarkable! We learned all about the fermentation process as well as how the different regions in Scotland vary in flavor. We soon discovered that we loved the region of Islay (pronounced  EYE-la) for it’s smoky taste. We also learned that the proper way to drink scotch is DOUBLE (if you’re ordering a single, you may as well not order scotch) and NEAT (water changes the taste and just waters down the deliciousness). The tour guide suggested to take one sip, and with the second sip, exhale through your nose. This will allow you to get the full-body aroma of the scotch.  

Throughout the UK, just like in England, the museums were completely FREE of charge. As a Mary Queen of Scots (16th century Scottish royal) fan myself, we made our way to the National Museum of  Scotland. It was exciting seeing original belongings of old royalty. Below, I’m standing next what is thought to be the original cradle used for Queen Mary’s son, James VI in 1566. They even had a tomb replica of the Queen, as she is buried in Westminster Abbey along with countless other royals. 

Our final stay in Scotland was one for my bucket list - staying in a castle. The castle we chose was once the hunting lodge for Mary Queen of Scots. There are even trees on-site that were planted by the Queen herself. I was in history heaven! There were stories of a haunted room - and no we did not stay in this room and ghost sightings throughout the landscape. The castle has been converted into a full hotel, with a restaurant in the cellar, a bar in the library room, and breathtaking landscape.  

Since our trip in Scotland was short lived, we didn’t get to try everything on our list, but we did get to eat some surprisingly delicious haggis (a ground mix of sheep’s pluck). We decided to try it in a fried ball form - very savoury! We washed it down with a double scotch neat (the proper way). 

This is certainly not the last time we will be visiting Scotland. We only had a taste of what seems to be a very rich culture. The countryside would be beautiful to see as well as the coastal regions where many of the best scotch comes from. Come back to read more next time when the tokyotwosome visits Asia - Japan and Vietnam. Thanks for reading! 

[tokyotwosome]

England: ”This Earth of Majesty”

7/26/19 - ENGLAND. The mother to the modern world’s business tongue. A country within the United Kingdom within Great Britain and none of us can make any sense of what the heck the difference is. This wondrous place is an island I’d always dreamed of visiting from the first time I picked up The Chronicles of Narnia. Or Pride and Prejudice. Or Harry Potter. The list goes on. From its rich history, its captivating architecture, and the many famous humans that have walked these streets, England is not a country to be missed.

We arrived in London on a Friday evening. The summer in the U.K. is much like Seattle; the sun is fickle and the rain needy. Seeing the countless parks throughout the city, not to mention the luscious greenery throughout the countryside, it’s no wonder it rains so much here. On Saturday morning, we met up with a friend to do a proper tour of the city. For the day, we purchased a “London Pass” which gets you into over 75 attractions as well as access to the Hop on Hop Off bus. We swiftly made our way to the top of the double decker, not caring that the open-roof was a bit damp and paying notice to the “mind your head” signs up the stairs. As we embarked through the city, a man with a microphone prompted us to grab headphones and listen to his countless facts about London. 

Did you know that there are actually two Londons? Greater London refers to the American definition of “London”. This is where the Queen hails and is generally what we think of when referring to London. There is also “The City of London”, a square mile within Greater London that can be easily identified by its dragon statues which guard its borders. The City of London is separately governed, collects separate taxes, enforces separate laws, has their own separate flag, and even elects their own Lord Mayor. Queen Elizabeth isn’t even allowed to enter the City of London without permission from the Lord Mayor. It’s all very scratch-head worthy. 

There’s a laundry list of sites to see in London. There’s Big Ben (currently under construction), Westminster Abbey (filled with famous and infamous corpses), Buckingham Palace, the Tower of London, Tower Bridge (much cooler than London Bridge), the Churchill War Rooms, Shakespeare’s Globe, and loads more. One would need to devote an entire week to site seeing just to manage it all in. Needless to say, we didn’t get to see everything, but we managed to get some good ones under our belt. 

Our first stop was at the Tower of London, just a hop, skip, and a jump away from Tower Bridge on the north bank of the River Thames (pronounced “Tems”). The Tower of London is less of a tower and more of a series of towers that feel more like medieval grounds from something out of a storybook. Within each tower holds its own treasures and stories. There was original armor, crown jewels, the bloody tower (where two princes were believed to have been killed by their uncle so that he could have the crown for himself), prison cells (where names and images have been carved into walls)...and so much more. You could spend all day at this site alone, but we hurried on off to lunch after building up an appetite..must have been all the murder stories that did it. Speaking of murder - walking across the Tower Bridge, we found the street where many Jack the Ripper scenes were filmed. They even offer evening tours of all his murder spots (a big no thank you from me). 

The food in England is a journey in and of itself. If you ask for pie, don’t expect something sweet. A traditional English-style breakfast consists of toast (seemingly the most important food group), beans, mushrooms and/or tomatoes, an over-easy egg, a hash brown, bacon (which is actually more ham-like), and sausage (tastes more like fake meat to me). We can’t tell you how many times we ate the same English-style breakfast, but it really was quite hearty. Brunch will sometimes include all-you-can-drink. And let’s not forget Sunday roast! Tea was also a staple for most, if not all, of our breakfasts - I like mine with two sugars and milk. In terms of stereotype foods, we didn’t see a crumpet in sight.

While London is a must-see when in England, it’s certainly not the highlight of the country. We rented a car and made our way north, with our final destination being Scotland. We’d arranged to have overnight stays in aribnb’s along the way, taking recommendations from our very own Rick Steves. The street signs were comical, seeing ones like “mind the gap” and “queues likely”. Getting used to the different terminology is a journey of its own. First stop was Stow-on-the-Wold; a quaint little market town with sandy-colored buildings, friendly town folk, and shops around every corner. We still aren’t sure what a Stow or a Wold is, but while we passed through, it was clear why it was a place outsiders wanted to visit. After spending a few days in the city, it was refreshing to be in a small town. We managed to only go down the wrong side of the street towards oncoming traffic once, so that’s a bonus! 

Shortly following our pit-stop to Stow-on-the-Wold, we found our airbnb in a place known as Derbyshire, arriving promptly at 3:00 PM. A woman answered the door and greeted us by saying, “you’re positively punctual”. She sounded like Mary Poppins and I could’ve swore she was about to break out in song next and a bird would likely land delicately on her finger. That was when I really realized we weren’t in Kansas anymore. She took us upstairs to our room in her large, historical cottage. The backyard view reminded me of something out of a Jane Austen novel. I could imagine Mr. Darcy coming to our door by horseback. We had dinner at a local gastropub, just up the street. The server told us about a place to visit the following day, which we promptly agreed we’d do. 

The next morning on our way out of town, we stopped by the recommendation from our server; a nature walk toward an abandoned water mill. During our walk, Rob stopped and asked that I take a picture of him in the grass. At the time, I had no idea why. Turns out he was envisioning a scenic view out of Gladiator and just HAD to reenact it. Making our way down a long drive, we saw a flock of pheasants that we thought were chickens. When we finally did make it to the water mill, we took in the beautiful views and imagined what sorts of things must have taken place throughout history here; a common thought through such a historical place. When we thought there wasn’t a living soul in site, a couple of women on horseback road passed. Such a slow, easy going lifestyle here. 

Our next destination was what is known as the lake district; more specifically, a town called Keswick (pronounced Ke-sick). Keswick was by far our favorite stopping point. It had a German feel with British flavor. Lots of nature, lots of shops, and lots of kind people. This is a popular spot to visit in the summertime for Brits throughout the country. While rain was to be expected, we lucked out for the day we spent there and enjoyed a pleasant nature hike. 

The day following our trip to Keswick, the weather took a turn for the worse. We were so fortunate to have such a beautiful day for our one day spent there. After our time in the lake district, our next stop was Scotland. Truly, Scotland is deserving of its own blog, so stay tuned for that next! Instead, I’m going to fast forward to when we trained back to London. 

We’ve gone full circle and made it back to the city. Our train arrived at Kings Cross Station - so naturally we visited platform 9 3/4. After taking our obligatory Harry Potter photo, we decided to try to squeeze in any last minute sightseeing we may have missed. That’s how we ended up at the Churchill War Rooms. The underground tour is the original housing spot for Churchill and his men during WWII. They have kept the rooms in mostly the same condition with a full audio tour to really envision what it must have been like during the war. Trying to imagine being trapped down there while bombs continued to go off upstairs was a very humbling experience. For me, having been to the war museums in both Pearl Harbor and Okinawa, seeing the war through the British lens was a new perspective. On one of the original maps in the discussion room, you could even see a drawing of Hitler someone had done. A really remarkable site and I would highly recommend to anyone who visits London. Speaking of sights in London, did you know that all museums are free in the UK? That led us to the Natural History Museum! Among other things. 

On 8/3/19, our 5-year wedding anniversary, we decided to treat ourselves to high tea. We had reservations at a delightful little spot in the city. The theme was Peter Rabbit and ohhhh was it good! We had mini-sandwiches, biscuits, jams, and treats to the max. Everything you see was edible, including the flower pots. I don’t think I stopped smiling once. When we had finished, we were stuffed beyond belief. Then the server comes over with a HAPPY ANNIVERSARY dessert. We couldn’t NOT eat it...so we stuffed our little bunny bellies. Another successful wedding anniversary outside of the states - once an accident, now a tradition. <3

If you’re considering a trip to the UK, I’d say go Nike and just do it! Some of our expectations were met and others were shattered, but that’s the joy of travelling. A place is never how you think it’s going to be, but seeking the different is what is exciting. Stay tuned for the next blog where we’ll share our adventures in Scotland - my new crush. Thanks for sticking it out and reading along!  

[tokyotwosome]

A French Excursion

Toulouse 

7/29/2018 - My first taste of Europe began in the south of France, in the city of Toulouse. My expectations of France stemmed from books and movies, which truly limits you to two senses; sight and sound.  Naturally I expected to see breathtaking architecture and streets filled with centuries of European history. What I hadn’t anticipated were the other senses we would experience; the smells, the flavors, and the feeling. As I write this segment of the blog, I’m sitting on the terrace of our hotel as the sun rises to awaken the city. You can hear the vrooms of mopeds weaving through the alleys. You can feel the fresh breeze of the crisp morning air with a hint of a summer scent drifting with it. It’s something capable of forcing a pessimist to smile. The temperature is a comfortable 69°F (about 20°C). I’m sipping my morning “café – coffee” as I wash down my “chocolatine - a chocolate croissant”, that we bought just last night while walking around the markets. While other visitors come out to their balcony, you greet them with “bonjour” as if you’ve been saying it for years. There isn’t a skyscraper in sight. Just brick buildings upon brick buildings that look like they all have a story to share. Rob has spent several days already completing an extended business trip at Airbus. While he’s at work today, I am off to spend my first day exploring the city, solo. 

As mentioned, Rob had been spending some time at Airbus, providing product support. Through work, he made a friend at Airbus (Julien), who invited us over for a late dinner at his place. Julien’s girlfriend and I spent the day sightseeing in Toulouse. At dinner, Julien, prepared us duck soaked in red wine, served with rice, French pâté, cheeses of all varieties, meats, and more. Then we washed it all down with some rum, where our new friend showed us how to prepare it properly. Julien told us about his home country; a tiny island nestled to the east of Madagascar. A fun and delightful way to spend our last night in Toulouse. 

[a free tour inside the Capitole de Toulouse Building, pictured above] 

To sum up a few interesting facts I learned in my first few days in France:

There’s a TV tax - used to fund local French TV networks. 

Business isn’t always open – With Paris being the exception, hours of operation tend to vary in France. Sometimes it’s too late in the day for a croissant at a café. Or sometimes it’s too early for dinner and all restaurants don’t open until 7:30 PM. A way to avoid this is by going to bakeries for baked goods and then going to a local park. It’s much more efficient if you’re on the go, downside being you miss the outdoor café on the street atmosphere. Apart from food, boutiques are typically not open until 10 AM  or so. Oh and Sundays? Forget about it. Many of the French truly live by exercising their day of rest. That goes for shops as well. Need not worry! There may be a local outdoor market open.

Bakeries are no joke – Bread is the staple of this country. It was a major player in the French Revolution. Seeing passersby with a baguette in their bag is in no way unusual. There’s a bakery around every corner, each item a soft, fluffy, piece of heaven. You can smell the bakeries in the street, making it impossible not to stop and snag a pastry. 

Cheese is also no joke - The French cheese puts our cheese to shame. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a nice Wisconsin sharp cheddar as much as the next guy...but French cheese is savory on a whole other level!

Bordeaux 

7/31/18 - Next stop, that’s right you guessed it; wine country. We decided to rent a car, a manual no less. A French car; a Peugeot. It was about a 2-hour drive north of Toulouse. Having experience driving a manual, I thought what a thrifty idea. Let’s not get into the narrow European one-way streets...eventually, we made it to Bordeaux. The city itself is just that, a city. Where were the acres of vineyards? We would soon travel 20 min east to Saint-Émilion to find out. But before we head out of the city, we stop by the Bordeaux Wine Museum. The Museum included a tasting and allowed you to explore the smells and sights of wine around the world. It was cool to see Yakima Valley (a Washington region) being recognized as a world-renowned wine within the museum. Wine is a big contributor to romance; the museum touched on that countless times. An interesting take on wine. After grabbing a French lunch buffet, we head out towards Saint-Émilion. The streets start to quiet and those vineyards finally make their grand appearance. 

Our Airbnb sat within vineyards and the city we’d just left behind was a world away. This is the kind of countryside life where you can really forget about your troubles. The next day we had an electric bike tour planned through the  Saint-Émilion chateaus and little did we know what an exceptional experience it would turn out to be. 

Our tour consisted of 8 riders and one guide. Our guide Julie was a local French gal, sharing her knowledge of the area’s history as we zigged and zagged through the back roads of vineyards. We learned about the importance of the soil; the area mostly comprised of limestone and clay - the perfect soil suitable for merlot and cab franc. The other 6 riders in our group were all Australian and what an entertaining lot they were! As we made our way through the hills, we eventually made our first stop at Château Panet. Here we walked through the Château where the wine was being made, learning about the process along the way. We ended the tour with an outdoor picnic of wine, cheeses, meats, and breads. We chatted with the rest of the group, learning that they all are from Melbourne. One of the riders complimented me on my accent, which was the first and likely the last time that will ever happen. Who ever thought an American accent could be “charming”? 

Our final stop on our tour was Château Saint-Georges, a true castle once owned by the king of France. We walked around the breathtaking grounds, stopping to try the smells and flavors in the garden. Each item in the garden was carefully chosen to help represent different notes within the wine. They also told us about how much the weather impacts the harvest, and why you often hear wine connoisseurs say things like, “2015 is an excellent vintage” or “that’s a good year”. We learned how you identify older wines vs younger by the color. We discovered so much about wine that we didn’t know, in such a short span of time.

Paris

8/3/18 - Paris, the world’s most visited city in the world, is its own breed. Comparing it to the rest of France isn’t a fair comparison really. We stayed at an Airbnb apartment within the heart of the city. Everything was within walking distance, with places like Notre Dame just a short walk away. Sure, in a city like Paris you’re going to come across a few homeless people digging through the trash and you have to be mindful of the possibility of pickpockets. If you’re able to avoid this and/or not allow it to spoil your visit, Paris can be very charming. Keeping a loose agenda and simply walking along the river, stumbling across places as you go, is the best way to do it. We stopped by a cafe, where a friend of a friend had just opened business (Jozi Cafe). He gave us some great advice on things to see and things to avoid. We joked with him about how he’d never been to the Louvre, much like we’ve never gone on Ride the Ducks in Seattle and how you’re often not the tourist in your own city. We visited Shakespeare and Co. bookstore to check out the 1920′s gathering spot for famous writers such as Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. We even bought Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway, a nonfiction that he wrote describing his time in Paris. Don’t forget to have the store clerk stamp your book with a Shakespeare & Co. stamp before you go! 

The Eiffel Tower - the symbol of romance in Paris. You can find an Eiffel Tower in the states on shirts, bags, or home decor. Seeing it in person really depicts its grandness. We needn’t bother go up the tower; we simply wanted to see it up close and in-person. Our 4th Wedding Anniversary we spent at a restaurant on the water, just beneath the tower. While enjoying our meal and our view, we did our favorite thing to do when we travel; people watch. We noticed our server speaking Spanish to the table to our right and French to the table on our left. He spoke English to us, so this was pretty impressive how he could just switch gears in a matter of moments. Tipping is not a custom in France, but you can certainly leave one if you feel the service was superb. While the boat tour on the river had been going on for hours, we opted to skip it during the day. The weather was hot, muggy, and uncomfortable. Instead, we did the tour during the sunset which proved to be both romantic and a much more comfortable and rewarding experience. 

We spent our last day at The Louvre. We managed to see all of our favorites within 3 hours. The renaissance paintings being our favorite. Liberty Leading the People left the biggest impression on me. It was a must see and I wouldn’t recommend skipping it if you’re in Paris. Overall, we loved France and have every intention of visiting again one day. Travelling really teaches you a lot of lessons and opens your eyes to the big beautiful world out there. You also learn a lot about your own country through the perspective of other countries. Our craving for travel continues so stay tuned! We aren’t certain where our next trip will be. Brazil, Hong Kong, Singapore, Iceland, and the UK are all on the horizon. Thanks for reading; until next time.

[tokyotwosome]

Ohio: Land of Flatness & Friendly People

Ohio is a state that is likely not on your list of Top States to Visit in the U.S. With that in mind, we went to Ohio for a friend’s wedding, having no real expectations or knowledge of the state. For me, the farthest west I’ve ventured to is Las Vegas, Nevada - west coast make some noise! Yet, Ohio is like the coy girl in school that keeps to herself and, once you get to know her, you discover how vivacious she really is.

Why in god’s name did we visit Ohio? Great question!

The visit all started with our friends Luke and Naoko. Luke is a friend we’d met through mutual means some years ago, eventually introducing us to his Japanese fiance, Naoko. Luke was born and raised in a country home in Ohio, nestled on a farm in a quaint town called Pemberville. The two lovebirds first met in Ohio where they attended Bowling Green State University. Naoko was there for a study aboard program, and eventually planned to return to Japan. Their relationship blossomed from there and the two spent an extended amount of their relationship in different countries. Skype was their favorite date night. Five years, they managed to do this. Naoko was even in Japan during my honeymoon - even coming to meet the tokyotwosome to give us a tour of a city she knew little about. All the while, her fiance was living in Seattle. It was closer to her, yet, the Pacific Ocean still kept them apart. When we moved to Japan in 2015, Naoko was getting ready to finally move to Seattle. We were lucky to spend some time with her before she left and joked about how “when we finally thought we’d to live in the same country, we both moved to each other’s country”. Okay, now that you have some background as to why we decided Ohio of all places, let me tell you a bit about this Midwestern state.

The trip started at our Airbnb in a little town called Risingsun, Ohio. Japan happens to be the land of the rising sun, so the location seemed kismet. The property, known as “Eight Leafed Clover” was perfectly surrounded by trees, giving it a private oasis feel, with a little window to walk out to the farmland. The mini-forests in the distance is where hunters go to game for wild turkey. Our beds sat in a large barn made into a home. It included an upstairs and downstairs bedroom, bath, living room space, and full kitchen for our convenience. The property also held a man-made pond / swimming hole. Up the street is a convenience store called “Buddy’s” and down to the left is the “Dollar General”. To get anywhere, it seems like you drive down a long straight road for 10 miles, turn left, then drive down another long straight road for 20 miles. It’s far different from the winding, hilly, roads of Seattle. It was clear that we weren’t in the city anymore, and it was wonderful!

Our group had been asked to assist with hosting the Japanese wedding guests. We took the job very seriously and did everything we could to provide them with a good time. I immediately thought of my honeymoon, when Naoko gave us a tour of a place she barely knew and here we were returning the favor for her friends and family. While her Japanese guests were experiencing American culture shocks, we were also experiencing some culture shocks of our own. The first thing we noticed was how incredibly warm and welcoming every Ohioan was that we came into contact with. Cousins of Luke’s that felt like our cousins. There was Uncle Bill who was a hoot and made you feel like you’ve known him for years. His parents and other relatives treated us as though we were extended family members. It didn’t stop there. Store clerks talk to you as though they truly care about how your day is going. People mowing the lawn waive to you when you drive by. Time moves slower somehow, and the people seem generally happier. This is a place where you can learn to stop and smell the roses.

The Wedding

The big day had finally arrived. The ceremony was held in a beautiful Japanese garden (yes they have those in Ohio!). Naoko’s dad walked her down the aisle proudly and the bride looked like a fairytale princess. I forgot to mention that Luke and Naoko actually got officially married at the courthouse two years prior. The purpose of the wedding ceremony was to celebrate with friends and family. Doing it this way certainly does take some of the pressure off! That being said, it felt just as special (if not more so) than any other wedding ceremony. Their officiant was their Japanese teacher (”sensei”) from Bowling Green State University. They couldn’t have picked a better person as she performed the ceremony in both Japanese and English. Whatsmore, Luke and Naoko decided to write their vows together and spoke them to the audience, rather than to each other; Luke in English, Naoko in Japanese. The fact that part of their vows included thanking their friends/family was so beautiful. Such a special moment.

The party following the ceremony is a blur of awesomeness, as most weddings go. Filled with dancing, drinking, partying, crying, puking, and all the other joys of wedding festivities. We’ll leave the rest up to your imagination. ;)

The Post-Wedding BBQ

Luke’s family home is like a playground. In the barn, you can feed the chickens beneath the creaky movement of the barn cat scouting for mice. On the right side of the barn is acres of open field where guests could hit golf balls into the forested area or take a ride on their four-wheeler. To the left, Luke’s dad pulls clay pigeons for guests to try and shoot with their shotgun. In front of the house is cousin Steve cooking up meats of all kinds. In the garage are tables where the mixed family congregates. Grandma is sitting in the shade with her ice-tea. Others are bouncing tennis balls in front of the garage while Mrs. Thody (yours respectfully) gets carried around over the shoulder by her husband. It’s the type of home that makes you feel like you’re apart of it. When you walk in the kitchen it’s like something out of a Country Living magazine. Any minute, Mama Heidi is going to ring the bell for supper. This is the type of place you go to unwind, unplug, and just relax. The weather can never seem to make up its mind. One minute the sun is shining so bright and the air warms you with its humidity. The next minute, a storm is rolling in and you’re suddenly running to the house for a warm jacket and an umbrella. It reminded me slightly of my hometown in Rochester, WA, yet different. Such a comfortable lifestyle.

Judges ruling - Ohio is a wonderful place filled with wonderful people. Never did I think I’d ever say these words, but it’s true. Check that state off the list! Is it flat like they say? Yes, yes it is. Is there poison ivy in the woods? Yes, yes there is. Does the general population have a grasp of agriculture? Yes, yes they do. Are the people nice? Above and beyond what you could imagine. :)

Join the tokyotwosome next time when they venture off on their next excursion. Will it be Europe? Or maybe another whacky American state? Stay tuned to find out! 

[tokyotwosome]

Okinawa

Yesterday was our final day in Okinawa and in the short time we spent there so much transpired. The one thing that immediately caught my eye was how completely different Okinawa feels compared to that of mainland Japan. It’s clear that the American influence plays a big role, yet the islanders hold on to their distinct heritage in a very beautiful way. There were simple differences, really, yet so significant. Take the language, for instance. You often hear people in Tokyo mentioning how Okinawans speak a different dialect of Japanese. What I didn’t realize is a lot of the traditional way of speaking is almost its own language altogether. While they share many of the same customs as the mainland, they also have their own. Let me begin with why we went to Okinawa in the first place, apart from the fact that it’s been on our bucket list of places to go. The purpose of this trip was for Rob, myself, and our friend Naoki to deliver a seminar to JTEs (Japanese Teachers of English). Our friend and fellow colleague, Taniguchi-sensei (or “Grandpa” as we call him) is a well known organizer for these seminars and managed to book the trip for the four of us. We shared a presentation on “How to Team Teach with Foreigners” in the hopes of providing a new perspective to the JTEs. After meeting with all of the teachers and locals during our trip, we can say for certain that there is one thing Okinawa shares with mainland Japan and that is their warm hospitality, or omotenashi as they say in Japan.

DAY 1

Our first day was reserved for visiting some of Okinawa’s world heritage and memorial sites. The first place we toured was called Sefa-utaki, the historical origin sites of the Ryukyu Islands. Walking through the forested area and gazing at the monstrous rocks where pilgrims often travel to pray brought out a very spiritual feeling to us as observers. Shortly thereafter, we drove to the Peace Memorial for a private tour and a bit of history about the events that unfolded during the Battle of Okinawa in April of 1945. We were especially moved by the fact that the walls with engraved names of the dead included Japanese, Okinawan, and American military personnel. The cliff pictured above shows a beautiful view of where nature’s greenery meets the ocean-blue waves. During the intense battles that took place here, the locals were essentially pushed off the edge and forced to commit suicide against their will. At that time, the water was completely red from the blood of those who died. We took a few moments and all prayed together. It was quite beautiful and honestly what we hope our ancestors and countrymen would have wanted as a result from the war. 

Nearby the Peace Memorial is another memorial called Himeyuri that had another very emotional impact. The site is dedicated to an Okinawan girl’s school that had suddenly been forced to become participants during the battle. These girls had to drop their books and pick up medical supplies to aid the injured Japanese soldiers. As a result of the battle, almost all of the 222 girls lost their lives. I encourage everyone to learn about their story as it’s a truly tragic one. Girls as young as 12-years-old went into the underground caves where the Japanese military required them to care for the injured. They weren’t allowed to return to their families and eventually most of them died from various causes. They’re known as the Himeyuri students. 

Our first night out took a thrilling turn. What seemed like any normal Japanese-style restaurant turned out to be anything but ordinary. The restaurant included live music and portrayed a perfect example of Okinawan-style cuisine. We tried pig’s feet, Sōki soba (Okinawa’s famous noodle dish), as well as umibudou (or seaweed grapes, which had no particular flavor but a very interesting texture), and then washed it all down with an ice cold Okinawan brewed Orion beer. The music consistently involved the audience in singing along, dancing around the restaurant together and giving a cheers to your neighbor by shouting “ari-kanpai”. As if things weren’t exciting enough, we then took to the stage for a chance to try on traditional Ryukyu royalty attire (pictured above).

DAY 2

Our first seminar went exceptionally smoothly and we really connected with the teachers who had attended. Once the seminar came to a close for the day, we went out for a night of drinking and learning about Okinawan local life. One of the teachers played the sanshin (an Okinawan banjo-like instrument) as we all sang the local tunes at an anime-style karaoke bar. The night ended at a Showa era jazz bar with a very talented guitarist, where we sang old-style Japanese karaoke (no TV prompter). We spent the majority of the time drinking awamori (popular local spirits) and talking with our new local friends. 

DAY 3

Following our final day of presenting (including a taco lunch and local parade), we joined everyone for a sunset beach BBQ. We gathered by the water, drinks in our hand, as we took in the beautiful view of the ocean and cooked up various meats. What we hadn’t anticipated was the sudden change in weather. We started the BBQ with beautiful skies and a slight breeze in the air. Then, suddenly the storm decided to swoop in. The sky went grey as thunder and lightning boomed overhead. Rain began pouring in a monsoon-like way as the wind blustered through, blowing away our cups and plates. Soon after, a staff member came by to evacuate us as the storm was in full force. The group of us grabbed our belongings and took off towards shelter in a nearby resort hotel lobby. It was like something out of a movie. We sprinted through the rain as the wind gusted this way and that. Moments later we had safely arrived to shelter beneath the nearby hotel. The same staff member provided us towels to dry our soaking wet bodies, reimbursed us for the BBQ, and it was then that we realized some of the guys had carried their beers with them through the storm. We all busted into laughter at this realization and the mere luck of the typhoon hitting us so suddenly in that moment. 

DAY 4

Day 4 was yet another impactful day. As you may know, Okinawa has an abundance of U.S. military bases throughout the island. What you may not know is how exactly this impacts the locals. Whether it be the osprey that crashed (disrupting local life), the rape and murder of a high school girl, or the drunk driving from American military personnel, it’s clear that the military presence has an impact on the Okinawan people. In addition to all this, the Japanese government is currently in the works of a new plan to build a U.S. base on the shores of Henoko (a region in Okinawa). We had an opportunity (thanks to the help of our new friend and local university instructor, Keiko-sensei) to go speak with the protesters about what they’re opposing to try and grasp a better understanding of their cause. 

LET ME BE CLEAR THAT WE WERE IN NO WAY INVOLVED IN THE PROTEST, BUT MERELY THERE TO OBSERVE AND TALK WITH THE ACTIVISTS TO EXCHANGE THOUGHTS.

As it seems, the new base where the construction has began is not only endangering the ocean-life and surrounding natural habitats, but the locals feel they’re having their land stolen right under their feet. It was really powerful to see how passionate they are about their heritage, people, and land. It reminds me a bit of how the Native Americans feel about their land in the states and having to then fight for what is rightfully theirs. After speaking with the protesters, they had asked us each to say a little something and next thing I know I’m singing the song “Imagine” by John Lennon to a group of protesters in Okinawa as the U.S. military is gazing at us only a few yards away. It was a very surreal and eye-opening experience. 

DAY 5

The biggest take away from this trip is that we as people cannot bundle a society or country of people into one category. If you meet one American, can you honestly say you fully understand American culture from that one person? Certainly you cannot and the same is to be said about Japan. Okinawa is it’s own brand and a place we hope to visit again in the future, along with some of it’s neighboring islands. Our final day was spent sightseeing, shopping, and going to an ocean-view onsen (or hot spring). We would just like to thank Takara-sensei (see you in Seattle next March), Seiko-sensei, Seigo-sensei, Keiko-sensei, Gaku-sensei, Yoko-sensei, and the rest of the Okinawan crew of teachers! You all made our trip so very special and we’ll truly never forget it. A special shout out to Naoki and Grandpa (Taniguchi-sensei) for being such remarkable travel partners. Thanks to Grandpa for making this whole trip happen and being “the best of the best”. We are so incredibly lucky to know you all and feel very blessed to have such wonderful people in our lives. あり乾杯！

[tokyotwosome]

Rob’s official farewell speech to his school.

[tokyotwosome]

Girls’ Trip to Hakone

With all of the hustle and bustle in our lives at the moment, I was able to scrounge some time to travel to Hakone with a couple of my students. Yuko and Yoshie, along with the rest of my Akitsu students, have become like family. For the past two years, my Thursday afternoons have been spent with them talking about this or that. There’s “Samantha”, who taught me to sew. “Mary” is the life of the party and always makes me laugh. Yuki and Rie are kind and always full of interesting stories. Then there’s Yuko and Yoshie, my Hakone travel partners, who I’ve grown exceptionally close with. 

Yuko’s sister and mother joined us for our first day. We drank highballs on the train and once we arrived to Hakone we were ready to explore. Did some window shopping, took a mini glass blowing class, drank some coffee, ate some sweets, and eventually ended up soaking our tired feet in an outdoor foot onsen (natural hot springs). The mountainous views of Hakone and boundless nature make it a nice escape place from Tokyo’s concrete jungle. 

 After saying goodbye to Yuko’s family, we snagged a taxi and headed to our hotel. We stayed in a traditional-style Japanese inn, with traditional tatami mat flooring and three futons with our names on it. The room was quite large and what we didn’t know until morning was our window had a riverside view. It felt like what one might imagine old Japan life to be. We had evening reservations for a private outdoor onsen and got to gaze at the stars while bathing in the earth’s natural steamed water with the sound of the river just a few yards away. 

The following morning, we headed down to the outdoor onsen for an early morning bath. The air was crisp, the scenery full of greens in every shade, and the sound of birds chirping and the flowing river made for a relaxing way to start the day. Promptly after our bath, we were served our breakfast in our room sitting at a chabudai (a traditional Japanese short-legged table). After check-out time, it was time to continue exploring Hakone. First stop, hell valley! 

When you first arrive to hell valley, your nose gets a little tingle from the smell of sulfur lingering in the air. Your eyes quickly dart to the steam coming from the mountainside as the active volcano does its thing. One notably famous attribute of hell valley is the black egg. The egg is cooked in the hot springs and has a slight sulfuric smell. Inside the shell is a hard-boiled egg that essentially looks and tastes as any other hard-boiled egg. The difference is, it’s believed to increase longevity - by 7 years to be exact. Give me about 60 years and I’ll let you know how that works out. 

After waiting out a short yet intense storm, we climbed aboard a pirate ship and sailed around Lake Ashi. We eventually were planted on another side of the lake and walked around Lake Ashi’s shrine which included a torii gate in the water. Even with the weather working against us, it was a pretty sight to see. The pathway back to the station was like something out of Alice in Wonderland. It goes without saying that Hakone is a recommended travel spot - weekdays being the best option. They even have an onsen theme park with baths filled with wine, green tea, sake, or coffee for your bathing pleasure. Even with the minor hiccups we encountered, we made some awesome memories. I’m so incredibly grateful to my friends Yuko and Yoshie for making it so wonderful. <3

[tokyotwosome]

Final Month in Japan

Where has the time gone? Certainly it must be hidden in some long forgotten jean pocket somewhere. How is it that in exactly one month from today, Rob and I will be on a plane headed back to Seattle? It’s such a surreal feeling to be leaving Japan. There’s so much to say about what this journey has taught us and I’ll do my best at shining some light on the subject. 

Something occurred to me yesterday that I hadn’t really considered...two years ago we said goodbye to friends and family with the intention of one day returning to Seattle. It was difficult, but there was a light at the end of the tunnel reminding us that it was a temporary adjustment. Fast forward to now, as we begin our final farewells, and I can’t help but feel a deeper sadness. Of course, I can’t say with absolute certainty that we won’t live in Japan ever again, but the likelihood is much less. Because of this, saying goodbye seems harder this time around. These people have become our family. It wasn’t until yesterday that I felt a sudden rush of emotions when we said goodbye to our host family at the station (pictured above). I’d been fine up to this point, yet something about saying goodbye to people at the train station puts off such a somber tone, like the dramatic ending scene in a black and white film. It was difficult, to say the least.

But Brittany, if you love Japan so much, why on earth would you leave? You raise an excellent point, reader. It’s not a simple answer, really. We have a dozen or so deciding factors that all play their role. The main reason that has continuously loomed over me since we left the states is my mom. She’s sick. Cancer is neither a fun disease nor a convenient one and being away from her makes me feel helpless at times. She just had surgery and I couldn’t be there. It’s hard...but as they say in Japan 「しょうがない」(shoganai which means “it can’t be helped”). Then there’s our student loans - as it turns out, earning yen and paying a USD bill is actually more expensive. Exchange rates, who would’ve thunk it?

We still have a very busy and hectic month ahead. Last week we got together with Rob’s fellow Bunji teachers for a farewell dinner. The teachers gave speeches, gifted us flowers, as well as Mt. Fuji shaped chopstick holders and a traditional kamakura-bori lacquerware plate. How lucky Rob is to have had such a supportive group of people to work with. Last night we attended another farewell party held by our community center folks. Rob has been going there once a week these past two years to get free one-on-one tutoring by volunteers. They’re truly wonderful people! For me, this is my final week of work. Rob is taking this week off to begin getting all of our preparations in order. This weekend we’re attending yet another farewell gathering, visiting the Ueno museums, watching some rakugo and kabuki (traditional Japanese performing arts), and attending our friend Sugiyama-san’s book expo. Next week I’m going to Hakone with some of my students to stay for a night as a sort of girl’s getaway. Hakone is known for their hot springs and mountainous views. I’ve also been told I need to try Hakone’s famous black eggs that are boiled in hot springs containing sulfur and iron. It’s said that if you eat one, it will add additional years to your life span. Can’t hurt to try it! Apart from that and all of our prepping, we also have a camping trip in Kamikōchi and a 4-day trip to Okinawa where we’ll be teaching a seminar to Japanese teachers of English. Busy, busy, busy! At least we’re going out with a bang, I suppose. Hoping to get one more blog in before we depart. Stay tuned for the remainder of our journey. Cheers! 

[tokyotwosome]

Two Months To Go

It is with the most bitter of sweetness to officially inform you that we will be returning to Seattle this coming August. Where has the time gone? As it turns out, that old wives’ tale about time sweeping past you more rapidly with age appears to be true. We can’t begin to tell you how much we’ve learned on this journey; the friends we’ve gained, the trials we’ve overcome, the adventures we’ve taken. It’s enough to last us a lifetime. This, however, is not our farewell post. Instead, I want to tell you about our busy May and all of the wonderful experiences we’ve taken part in. 

Our month began with Japan’s week-long holiday (Golden Week) and with it, a visit from our friends Bre and Mike. Among the multitude of events, one of our favorites was a picnic with some old and new friends. At one point, our group consisted of people from France, Russia, the UK, Japan, and the US. Quite a fun crew as we drank and ate our hearts away.

Shortly following our friends’ departure back to Seattle, we attended a wedding party for one of my students, Yurina. She looked beautiful in her lace gown and her husband Go-san was suited-up and looking dashing! We weren’t sure what to expect at the wedding party, but it turned out to be a very fun and casual event. Yurina and Go even busted out chicken costumes and put on a spectacle for the guests. Regardless of us being the only non-Japanese party-goers, it was such a great time and we’re so happy we had a chance to be a part of it. 

The middle of the month included a Mexican fiesta with our Australian mates Amanda and Jenny, checking out a vinyl shop with my Canadian homie David, making cherry blossom rice at our local cooking club, among other things. Yesterday we joined one of my students, Yoshie, and her husband for a double day date. We visited a Japanese garden, ate delicious soba, drank sake, drove to her favorite herb garden, and ended the night at a local izakaya (Japanese-style pub). 

The herb garden felt so therapeutic. The lemon mint smelled good enough to eat and the honeysuckle archway was like walking through an aromatic heaven. One section consisted of herbs specified for different medicinal purposes. We got a kick out of the “throat” section. 

Yoshie was also kind enough to gift me some freshly made honey from the herb garden in addition to a heko-obi (belt for my yukata) and a book on how to put on kimonos/yukatas, obis, etc. She is such a generous person, as are many of the friends we’ve made in Japan. I now have collected 2 kimonos, 1 yukata, 1 haori, 1 traditional obi, 1 heko-obi, and 1 pair of slightly too small geta for my wide American feet. These are items that I intend on mastering to put on myself after having promised as such to my kimono sensei, Minamide-san. No pressure! O_O 

So now what? Well, we’ve officially purchased our flights home - set for August 10th. The next two months are reserved for finalizing things at work, prepping for our journey home, and spending as much time with the friends we’ve made in Japan. Our final Japan trip will be to Okinawa, just before we fly home to Seattle. We’ll be teaching a seminar for Japanese native English teachers. There’s still more to come in the next couple of months so stay tuned! 

[tokyotwosome]

Hitsujiyama Park - 羊山公園

Having a weekday off is the best time to take a day trip to an otherwise bustling location. With Golden Week just around the corner, a one week holiday period where most of the country has time off, it was nice to squeeze in one last trip before the crowds take over. One spot we’ve been told to visit by a number of friends is Chichibu’s famous Hitsujiyama Park. Tucked away beneath towering mountainous lands and bordered with rivers is this hidden gem. In the Spring, people from all over come to see the breathtaking landscape, full of carefully placed flowers of pinks, whites, and purples. It was nice to escape the city for a day and enjoy some nature.

Getting to the park on foot takes about a 15 min. walk from the station. Once you arrive to the park, it’s about another 15 min. hike up to where the festival is held. The air was comfortable, but crisp. The sky was a bit cloudy, yet we seldom paid notice as our eyes were transfixed to the grounds. Even the train journey from Tachikawa was quiet, scenic, and relaxing. The flowers were not quite in full bloom but bloomed enough to still leave a lasting impression.

At the top of the far end of the slope are food and beverage stands. We bought a strawberry crepe, a cup of karaage (fried chicken), and enjoyed the view while we snacked. We met an interesting woman who we chatted with briefly in Japanese. She happened to be from Chichibu and told us a little about the area. Beyond the flower patches is a gated farm with a handful of sheep and towards the exit there’s a large market filled with vendors of all sorts. Once we felt that the walk around the park had been sufficient, we scooted on over to the market. 

The market had the standard-style shops such as food stands, sweet shops, and omiyage (souvenirs). We bought some local omiyage and a couple trinkets. They also had a whisky stand where they were featuring the local whisky “Ichiro’s Malt & Grain Whisky” from a Chichibu distillery. We tried it in a highball and it tasted exceptionally smooth with some sweet notes. The featured snack is called miso potato. Three small potatoes baked with a crispy exterior and coated with a sweet and salty miso paste. It was so delicious, I had to order two! We also tried some of the local soba noodles, another food Chichibu is known for. By the time all was said and done, we were exhausted and ready to make the trek back home. I should probably mention the part of the trip where I lost my phone only to realize after we’d already made the 20 min. hike down towards the station and having to then turn around and make the 20 min hike back up to retrieve it. On the plus side, we certainly burned off all of our calorie intake in the process so at least we left feeling guilt-free. Would definitely recommend this place to anyone considering a visit! ✔️

[tokyotwosome]

Tsukuba Diving

Rob here. I’m hijacking this blog for this post because I decided I’d like to give writing one of these a shot. This will be my retelling of the events of the past weekend for personal purposes. It may sound long-winded and boring to an outsider, but I assure you, this is not for you. I am doing this for my own personal memory recollection in the future. If you are only interested for a TL;DR version I politely suggest you scroll down and judge my weekend by the pictures alone (MISTAKE!!!)

                                   Something’s Missing

On Saturday morning I biked down to my Japanese language class at the Community Center in Kunitachi. While I was studying the finer points of Japanese grammar with my wonderful teacher Ikeda sensei, Brittany was substitute teaching English at NHK on the opposite side of town. I decided to go meet with Britt when I left my class and invited a friend, Minami, along for the ride. We rode through spectacular cherry blossom lane in Kunitachi called Daigaku-dori. I learned that when the cherry blossoms are in half bloom, it is called Hazakura and it has special significance in Japanese culture representing the beginning of the end of the beautiful full bloom. Until next year, ne!

We had lunch with Britt’s students at an Italian restaurant called Pietro. Britt’s new student, Miho, joined who just so happens to be the mother of one of my students at Kokubunji High School. After lunch we rode our bikes back home. And that is when it happened.

While reaching in my back pocket to pull out some cash at our local ATM, I suddenly became overwhelmed with panic. I had lost my wallet. It fell out of my back pocket as I was riding my bike back home. These damned skinny jeans that Britt thinks are so good looking on me just caused me to lose 5 years of my life in anxiety. I immediately doubled back to look for it but alas, it was gone. In a panic I rushed to the local police box. Frantically I pulled out my phone and made a mental note of useful vocabulary I would need for the upcoming conversation.

Wallet = saifu (財布)

[Regrettably] Dropped = otoshitashimaimashita (落としたしまいました)

Lost = wasuremashita (忘れました)

Please help = tasuketekudasai (助けてください)

As I stepped inside the officer in charge looked at me and inquired in a deep, regal voice in Japanese, “Missing a wallet?” I was so relieved that they had it. Before presenting the wallet they of course had to ask a few questions to make sure I was the rightful owner. Color? Red. Contents? Foreigner card, bank card, blah blah blah. Bifold or Trifold? Bifold.  Cash amount? Here comes the embarrassing part. I had just spent it all (hence heading to the ATM earlier). Zero. (yikes!). The officer was convinced and presented me with my wallet. He said the person who found it wishes for no reward and would like to remain anonymous. My heart sunk a little when he said that. There is no way I can thank this person now. No way I can express my gratitude. That in and of itself, is a bit painful, but I suppose I deserve it for losing it in the first place. Strange emotions I’m not used to feeling, but I mustn’t dwell.

                  Sunday Fun Day in the City of Tsukuba!

Bright and early Sunday morning, Britt and I hopped on our bicycles and headed for Haijima Station to meet with my good friend and co-worker at Kokubunji High, Sugiyama-san. Together with his daughter Yoko, we drove about 2 hours north to a city called Tsukuba in Ibaraki prefecture.

First on our list of activities was to climb Mt. Tsukuba. This is an interesting hike because it has two peaks – Nyotai-san and Nantai-san (Female Peak and Male Peak respectively with female peak being the higher of the two). We made it to the both peaks in a little over an hour and a half. Each peak has a Shinto Shrine on it enshrining the spirits of the mythical Gods that created the Japanese islands, Izanagi-no-Mikoto and Izanami-no-Mikoto. Mt. Tsukuba is one of Japan’s 100 famous mountains (hyakumeizan) so with the completion of this hike I can check it off the list. Five down, 95 to go!

On our way up, there was a rock formation that looked like a frog. For some unknown reason the frog is the spirit animal of this area. If you can toss a pebble in the frog’s mouth…I don’t know. Maybe good luck? Everyone was trying it so I gave it a shot.

He shoots, HE SCORES! I heard one of the onlookers say “NICE” in English.

We also came across this guy. Not exactly a snake oil salesman, but the next best thing – frog oil salesman.

In ancient times, these frog oil salesmen would use the katana to cut themselves, bleed out a bit, apply the ointment, and miraculously be healed! In modern times this is mostly a novelty thing, but I wouldn’t doubt there are actual believers.

After the mountain climbing, we took the cable car down. While in the cable car, an inquisitive little boy was chatting up the cable car operator. “What’s this button do?” “What’s this lever do?” “What’s a microphone?” “Wooooahhh!” Honestly one of the most adorable things I’ve ever witnessed.

Next we were headed to JAXA, (Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency).  This is Japan’s version of NASA only with a slightly cooler sounding name. While at JAXA I was able to freely roam their impressive exhibition. They had many models of their satellites on display, and a replica of Japan’s ISS module. I am currently teaching the new first year students about Wakata Koichi, a Japanese astronaut ISS commander. I saw a signed picture of him as well as what his sleeping quarters and toilet look like on the ISS. Neat stuff if you ask me.

We also were able to examine a life-size Japanese rocket booster.

Lastly, about a month ago Britt had been itching to go to a planetarium. She saw that episode of Friends where Ross and Rachael go to the planetarium, and she decided she wanted to see what that was all about. I’d never been either so when I told Sugiyama-san this he decided to add it to our plans for the day. He drove us down the street and we all got tickets to the show. While waiting for it to start, we had fun at the Children’s Science Center! Woooo!

The planetarium was pretty neat. I learned a bit about the constellations, and stars.

Anyway that’s all from me! Until next time!

[tokyotwosome]

Spring Escapades

Spring is here and with it comes the gradual warming temperatures and blooming of the renowned cherry blossoms, or sakura. For the first time in our 21 months of living here, we hosted family at our humble abode. My sister and cousin came to stay with us for a short, yet bustling week. They had a chance to fully experience what Japanese hospitality is all about being that many of my students went out of their way to make the trip truly memorable. To all of my Japanese friends and students, from the bottom of my heart, I thank you! 

There are two ways to experience a trip when travelling almost anywhere in the world. There’s the spots that online research lists off as the obligatory must-sees. Tokyo’s being the Skytree, Takeshita Street in Harajuku, or Yoyogi Park to name a few. The other way to travel is by hanging with the locals. Personally, I prefer the latter. As residents of Japan, we’ve done many, if not most, of the tourist hot spots and honestly we were not so impressed with a good majority. While we did make a point to go to what we feel are Tokyo’s must-sees (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Asakusa) we opted for spending time with as many of our friends and students that we could pack in to one week. 

We went shopping in Ueno, visited some batting cages in Shinjuku, and grabbed some grub and drinks at a local izakaya (a Japanese-style pub). Other nights included karaoke, shabu-shabu, cheap ramen, and roaming the streets. During the daytime, we were often guests to various events. One of my students invited us to her house for a delicious homemade lunch. Another day we attended a potluck-style party that some students put on at the cafe I teach at. Then there was the day we celebrated hanami (or viewing of the cherry blossoms) as we wore traditional kimonos in modern-style, walking and picnicking together with some students. 

If we thought things would slow down after our family went back to LA, we were sorely mistaken. Just days after their departure, Rob and I attended another hanami event in Omiya with our homestay family - followed by an Omiya Ardija soccer game. The cherry blossoms were overwhelmingly stunning.

The day following the soccer game, we went on a road trip with a friend and her student. Her student offered to drive us all 2+ hours to visit Matsumoto Castle, a castle built in 1504 and one of few that maintains much of its original interior and exterior design. 

What a way to end our spring break! Entering a castle over double the age of our home country is quite a trip. The cherry blossoms are still in the process of blooming so we aren’t quite finished just yet. Never a dull moment! 

[tokyotwosome]

Tokyo Marathon 2017

If we had to describe the Tokyo Marathon event in one phrase, it would be “organized chaos”. For starters, only 10% of applicants are accepted into the marathon. This year, a whopping 300,000 people applied with only 35,500 chosen in the lottery. Tokyo also happens to be on the list of the World Marathon Majors for top six championship-style competitions. Rob feels very lucky that he was fortunate to be on the short list, especially being that this was his first full marathon to ever run...and finish without a major catastrophe. 

The morning of, we woke up at the butt crack of dawn to catch the first morning train to the world’s busiest station, Shinjuku. When we arrived, the station was flooded with runners from around the globe and volunteers guiding everyone to their proper gate location. When I finally parted from Rob, I went to a cafe to wait patiently until it was closer to the starting time. It wouldn’t be until later that I would meet up with Rob’s cheer support. 

The night before the marathon, I made a double-sided sign to show my support for both Rob and the other runners. There were some creative costumes in the mix of participants. From Michael Jackson to Mario to business men in suits...you name it, it was probably there. I even saw a man dressed like a showgirl. How he was able to run an entire marathon like that is beyond me.

Once the race began, I followed my GPS tracker of Rob to see when he’d be coming my way. The excitement and energy from the crowds and runners was such an overwhelming feeling. Everyone was in high spirits. When Rob finally came by, I captured a photo (seen at the top) and cheered him on, as loud as my vocal cords would permit. Shortly after that I had to race back to the station to make it in time to the next spot; a 30 minute train ride to Asakusa.

When I arrived to Asakusa, I met up with the rest of our cheer squad. Rob’s coworker, Sugiyama-sensei, and his daughter Yoko joined. He even had a clipboard with maps and routes for the most efficient ways to get around Tokyo while we chased Rob like a rare Pokémon. A group from Rob’s Saturday Japanese class, including Minami-san, Fuse-san, and friends, also joined. Our fellow Seattle JET, Charlie, was also among our cheer squad. Shortly after we snapped a quick pic at Kaminarimon, we raced to the next spot to catch Rob. 

Sadly we missed Rob at the 15k and 25k marker. Between the walking and trains from one location to next, we were determined not to miss him again. We finally caught up with him around 35k and handed off his gel pack as we cheered him on. At that point he looked surprisingly energetic as if he wasn’t fazed by the run. By the 38k point, when we saw him for the final time before the finish, he looked much more exhausted. We then made our way to the Imperial Hotel to wait for him after the big finish. 

We were all so proud once he’d made it to the finish line! His goal was to a) finish the run without walking and b) get around a 4 hour time. He finished at 4 hours and 3 minutes! He exited the park, barely able to walk, so we went to find him and help him out. After the race, one of our Chinese friends in the group took us all to a Chinese restaurant he recommended in Asakusa where we all gorged on spicy deliciousness and chugged our beers with enthusiasm. Around the table were four countries of people (Japan, America, China, & Pakistan) who all came out to support Rob during his endeavor. Thank you to all who came out to watch as well as those who watched from home! This is another big accomplishment that Rob can check off his list of things to do in Japan before departing. **thumbs up** 皆さんありがとうございました。