Ukraine’s affordable cultural capital is a heady mix of art, adventure and partying
Fancy an affordable Eastern European city break? You’re in luck. Few destinations offer the value of Kiev, the colourful Ukrainian capital. In fact, according to the European Backpacker Index 2016 and priceoftravel.com, Kiev beats Bucharest to top spot as Europe’s least expensive city. Mention Kiev to people though and a common reaction is concern. Is it safe? Indeed, it is safe. It’s also vibrant and at times edgy (in a good way). Café culture dominates the streets and the city’s open-until-dawn nightlife scene is legendary.
Last September, US-based website www.politico.eu, ran an article entitled Kiev’s hipster revolution. The piece references the capital’s cultural development following the 2004 Orange Revolution. From a city centre littered with predominantly high-end brands and boutiques, more affordable, local, artisan business and galleries have started opening their doors, creating an increasingly diverse and organic atmosphere on the streets.
Kiev’s hipsters may be making the headlines, but the Ukrainians also possess a unique, fatalistic, sense of humour. Take the city’s literary legend, Mikhail Bulgakov and his satirical masterpiece, The Master and Margarita. On the one hand, it’s a cutting indictment of hypocrisy and corruption in Soviet-era society. On the other hand, it’s a multi-plot romp through the comedy of absurdity, which is eccentric to the point of lunacy. There’s a demonic character called Behemoth. He can talk, he walks on two legs, is roguish and he has a penchant for pistols and chess. He also happens to be a cat. Bulgakov’s leftfield take on the world isn’t a mile away from his contemporary compatriots in Kiev.
Peruse the capital’s excursions and you’ll start to think you stumbled across an eccentric James Bond plot. In no particular order, a Kiev adventure offers an opportunity to fire a loaded weapon – from a pistol and a Kalashnikov right up to a Dragunov sniper rifle. There’s a chance to drive a tank, visit a nuclear missile site and perhaps most remarkably, take a daytrip to Chernobyl.
The site of a nuclear power station meltdown in 1986, the high levels of radiation around Chernobyl following the fallout, meant that more than 350,000 people were evacuated from an area that covers 2,600 km². As the accident was more than 30 years’ ago, radiation levels have now dropped sufficiently to allow tourists to the site for a short period (Geiger counters are provided to sceptics). A haunting, ashen landscape, with abandoned buildings and even an abandoned kids’ roundabout and Ferris wheel, it’s a post-apocalyptic reminder of our vulnerability and one of the most unique experiences on the planet.
Less toxic and far livelier, in Kiev there’s a more conventionally European tone. Set across hills, in a way that brings Rome to mind, the capital is dissected by the Dnipro River. An architectural legacy remains from the city’s Communist era but unlike certain Soviet Bloc cities, the neo classical buildings and baroque-style churches and palaces, with their golden domes, lends Kiev a cosmopolitan and colourful atmosphere. Khreshchatyk Boulevard – the city’s main thoroughfare, is lined with shops and restaurants. Pedestrianised at weekends, Khreshchatyk is also where locals venture for a sociable jaunt. In contrast, the charming cobbled street, Andrew’s Descent, is the city’s former central thoroughfare and a quaint reminder of Kiev’s rich history.
To escape the throng of urban life, Kiev’s citizens have a wealth of green spaces to escape to, such as the famous, manicured, Central Botanical Gardens or Mariyinski Park. During the summer months, residents relax in Hydropark – a group of recreational islands with pools and beaches to soak up the sun and swim. Perhaps, the high-recreational standards are a response to a city that never sleeps – a space to reflect after partying until dawn on the beach. And, on reflection, while the cosmopolitan variety and forward-thinking population in Kiev may make the memories that stay with you, it’s the excellent value for money in the city that will provide you with instant gratification.
Top 4 things to do
Browse the PinchukArtCentre
A representation of Kiev’s world-class contemporary art scene, the centre was launched in 2006. Financed by billionaire Ukrainian businessman, Victor Pinchuk, the vast art space covers four floors, totalling over 3,000 square metres.
pinchukartcentre.org
Visit Pechersk Lavra
Nestled underneath Kiev’s grand, Byzantine-inspired gold-domed Dormition Cathedral, the famous Pechersk cave monasteries date back to 1077. Created by and later the home of hermit monks, the caves (slightly gruesomely) contain mummified bodies, preserved, not through embalming but because of the cool and dry conditions in the catacombs.
Stroll down Andrew’s Descent (Andriyivsky Uzviz).
A pretty, tourist-friendly cobbled street that’s often referred to as the city’s equivalent to Paris’ Montmartre, Andrew’s Descent is less than 1km in length. Look out for the author Mikhail Bulgakov's house (which is now a museum), and stalls with cheap souvenirs, ranging from matrioshka dolls to Communist artefacts and paintings, as well as a strong selection of lively bars and restaurants. Start at the summit, next to St Andrew’s turquoise-domed, baroque church, with its chintzy, gold accoutrements on the exterior and descend the hillside to Kontraktova Square.
Explore the unusual National Museum of the History of Ukraine in World War II
Perched on a hill overlooking the Dnipro River; this open-air museum is less conventional than your average institution. Boasting an extensive collection of World War II equipment, ranging from tanks and missiles, to trucks, planes and helicopters, it’s a real hit with kids, who love to climb over the exhibits. You’ll probably notice the gargantuan statue too. The enormous 62-metre woman stands on a 40-metre podium – a titanium behemoth, holding a sword and shield aloft.
Eat
Druzi Café
A hipster-friendly café with bicycles hanging from the wall and vintage sound systems, Druzi sits in a courtyard off Andrew’s Descent. Populated with second-hand furniture and young patrons, this place (which translates as friends) is a good spot to rub shoulders with Kiev’s trendier residents and make new friends.
druzicafe.com.ua
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