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Male dog neutering
Hy guys! Yesterday I had my male dog D. neutered, so I wanted to share some tips and infos about it with you! I found some infos about it and today I’m bringingyou basic informations on what is neutering and pros and cons of it. Information is taken from: http://www.pet-informed-veterinary-advice-online.com/male-dog-neutering.html
Let me know if you neutered your puppy and if yes, how it went.
Love,
L.
Male dog neutering, otherwise known as sterilisation, "fixing", desexing, castration (castrating) or by its correct veterinary name: orchiectomy (also termed gonadectomy), is the surgical removal of a male dog's testicles for the purposes of canine population control, medical health benefit, genetic-disease control and behavioral modification. Considered to be a basic component of responsible pet ownership, the neutering of male dogs is a common surgical procedure that is performed by most veterinary clinics all over the world. This page contains everything you, the pet owner, need to know about male dog neutering. Neutering topics are covered in the following order: 1. What is neutering? Neutering is the surgical removal of a male dog's testicles. During the procedure, each of the dog's testes and testicular epididymi are removed along with sections of the dog's testicular blood vessels and spermatic ducts (vas deferens or ductus deferens). The remainder of the male dog's reproductive tract structures, including: the prostate, urethra, penis, bulbis glandis and much of the dog's testicular blood vessels and spermatic ducts are left intact. Basically, the parts of the male reproductive tract that get removed are those which are responsible for sperm production, sperm maturation and the secretion of testosterone (the major male hormone). Removal of these structures plays a big role in canine population control (without sperm, the dog can not father young); genetic disease control (male dogs with genetic disorders can not pass on their disease conditions to any young if they can not breed); prevention and/or treatment of various medical disorders (e.g. castration prevents and/or treats a number of testicular diseases and testosterone-enhanced medical conditions) and male dog behavioural modification (testosterone is responsible for many male-dog behavioural traits that some owners find problematic - e.g. roaming, aggression, inter-male aggression, dominance, leg cocking - and castration, by removing the source of testosterone, may help to resolve these issues).
2. Neutering pros and cons - the reasons for and against neutering.
2a. The benefits of neutering (the pros of neutering) - why we neuter dogs. There are many reasons why veterinarians and pet advocacy groups recommend the neutering of entire male dogs. Many of these reasons are listed below, however the list is by no means exhaustive.
1. The prevention of unwanted litters: Pet overpopulation and the dumping of unwanted litters of puppies (and kittens) is an all-too-common side effect of irresponsible pet ownership. Every year, thousands of unwanted puppies and older dogs are dumped on the street (where they ultimately end up dying from neglect or finding their way into pounds and shelters) or handed in to shelters. Many of these animals do not ever get adopted from the pounds and shelters that take them in and need to be euthanased. This sad waste of healthy life can be reduced by not letting pet dogs breed indiscriminately and one way of preventing any accidental, unwanted breeding from occurring is through the routine neutering of all non-stud (non-breeder) male dogs (and female dogs too, but this is another page). Author's note: The deliberate breeding of family pets should never be considered an easy way to make a quick buck. A lot of cost and effort and expertise goes into producing a quality litter for profitable sale. And that's only if nothing goes wrong! If your bitch needs a caesarean section at one in the morning or develops a severe infection after whelping (e.g. pyometron, mastitis), then all of your much planned profits will rapidly turn into financial losses (the vet fees for these kinds of treatments are high). On top of that, if you fail to do your homework and breed poor quality pups or poorly socialised pups that won't sell, then you've just condemned some of those animals to a miserable life of being dumped in shelters or on the streets. 2. The reduction of stray and feral animal populations: By having companion dogs neutered, they are unable to go out and mate with feral or stray bitches and get them pregnant. This results in fewer litters of stray and feral dogs being born which, in return, benefits not just those unwanted puppies (who lead a tough neglected life), but also society in general. Feral and stray dog populations pose a significant risk of predation to native wildlife, domestic pets and livestock; they carry diseases that may affect humans and their pets (e.g. rabies); they may attack people and they put a huge financial and emotional burden on pounds, shelters and animal rescue groups. 3. To reduce the spread of inferior genetic traits, genetic diseases and congenital deformities: Dog breeding is not merely the production of puppies, it is the transferral of genes and genetic traits from one generation to the next in a breed population. Pet owners and breeders should desex male dogs that have conformational, colouring and temperamental traits, which are unfavourable or faulty to the breed as a whole to reduce the spread of these defects further down the generations. Male dogs with heritable genetic diseases and congenital defects/deformities should also be desexed to reduce the spread of these genetic diseases to their offspring. Some examples of proven-heritable or suspect-heritable diseases that we select against when choosing to neuter male dogs include: hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, cryptorchidism, hemeralopia, trapped neutrophil syndrome, collie eye anomaly and congenital cataracts. There are hundreds of others. 4. The prevention or reduction of testicular (and epididymal) diseases: It is difficult to contract a testicular disease if you have no testicles. Early neutering prevents dogs from contracting a range diseases and disorders including: testicular cancer, epididymal cancer, orchitis (testicular inflammation), epididymitis, testicular torsion, testicular abscessation and testicular trauma. 5. The prevention or reduction of testosterone-induced diseases: Dogs can suffer from a range of diseases and medical conditions that are directly associated with high blood testosterone levels. These disease conditions include:benign prostate hyperplasia (BPH), prostatitis, prostatic abscess, perianal or perineal adenomas (small cancers that occur around the anus of male dogs), perineal hernias and certain castration-responsive skin disorders (dermatoses). Desexing removes the main source of testosterone in the animal's body (the testes), which not only prevents the onset of these diseases but can even help to control or cure these diseases if they are already present. 6. The prevention or reduction of testosterone-mediated behavioural problems: The testicles are responsible for producing testosterone: the hormone that makes male animals look and act like male animals. It is the testicles that make male animals exhibit the kinds of "male" testosterone-dependent behaviors normally attributed to an entire animal. Entire dogs are likely to be more aggressive and more dominant and more prone to male-to-male aggression (inter-male aggression) than neutered animals: i.e. they act like bossy entire males. They will tend to exhibit sexualised behaviours including: aroused interest in females of their own species; mounting of females (particularly in-heat, estrus females); mating of females; mounting and humping of inanimate objects (including toys, chair-legs and human legs) and complete erection of the penis when excited. They are more prone to displaying often unwanted masculine territorial behaviours such as the guarding of resources (food, bones, territory, companion people and pets and so on) and the marking of territory with urine and feces (e.g. entire tomcats may exhibit urine spraying in the house; male dogs will cock their legs to urinate on vertical surfaces). Additionally, entire male animals are more likely than neutered animals are to leave their yards and roam the countryside looking for females and trouble. Roaming is a troublesome habit because it puts other animals (wildlife, livestock and other pets) and humans at risk of harm from your animal and it puts the roaming pet at risk from all manner of dangers including: predation by other animals, cruelty by humans, poisoning, envenomation (e.g. snake bite) and motor vehicle strikes. The neutering of entire animals can reduce some of these problematic testosterone-mediated behaviours. 2b. The disadvantages of desexing (the cons of desexing) - why some people choose not to neuter. There are many reasons why some individuals, breeders and pet groups choose not to advocate the sterilisation of entire male dogs. Many of these reasons have been listed below, however the list is by no means exhaustive. 1. The dog may become overweight or obese: Studies have shown that neutered animals probably require around 25% fewer calories to maintain a healthy bodyweight than entire male animals do. This is because a neutered animal has a lower metabolic rate than an entire animal does (it therefore needs fewer calories to maintain its bodyweight). Because of this, what tends to happen is that most owners, unaware of this fact, continue to feed their neutered male dogs the same amount of food after the surgery that they did prior to the surgery, with the result that their pets become fat. Consequently, the myth of automatic post-desexing obesity has become perpetuated and, as a result, many owners simply will not consider desexing their dogs because of the fear of them gaining weight and developing weight-related problems (e.g. diabetes). Author's note: The fact of the matter is that dogs will not become obese simply because they have been desexed. They will only become obese if the post-neutering drop in their metabolic rate is not taken into account and they are fed the same amount of food calories as an entire animal. Author's note: Those of you who care about your finances might even be able to see the benefits of desexing here. A neutered dog potentially costs less to feed than an entire animal of the same weight and, therefore, neutering your animal may well save you money in the long run. 2. Desexing equates to a loss of breeding potential and valuable genetics: There is no denying this. If a dog or cat or horse or other animal is the 'last of its line' (i.e. the last pup in a long line of pedigree breeding dogs), a breeder or pet owner's choice to desex that animal and, therefore, not pass on its valuable breed genetics will essentially spell the end for that breeding lineage. Author's opinion point: of all the reasons given here that argue against the desexing of male dogs, this is probably the only one that has any real merit. Desexing does equate to a loss of breeding potential. In an era where many unscrupulous breeders and pet owners ("backyard breeders" we call them) will breed any low-quality dog regardless of breed traits and temperament to make a quick buck, the good genes for breed soundness, breed traits and good temperament are needed more than ever. Desexing a male dog with good breed characteristics, good temperament and no genetically heritable defects/diseases will count as a loss for that breed's quality in general, particularly if there are a lot of subquality studs saturating the breeding circles. 3. Loss of testosterone as a result of desexing may result in immature development of masculine characteristics and a reduced body musculature: The testicles are responsible for producing testosterone: the hormone that makes male animals look and act like male animals. It is the testicles that make male animals develop the kinds of masculine, testosterone-dependent body characteristics normally attributed to an entire animal. These include: increased muscle size and development; reduced body fat; mature penis development; mature prepuce development (mature penis sheath development); the ability to extrude the penis from the sheath (prepuce) and the suppression of development of feminine characteristics (mammary gland development, milk production etc.). Desexing, particularly early age desexing, may limit the development of mature masculine features such that they remain immature and juvenile looking and cause the neutered animal to have a reduced muscle mass and strength compared to an entire animal of the same size and breeding. 4. Loss of testosterone as a result of desexing may result in delayed growth plate closure: Animals that have been desexed early in life (before the age of 12 months) tend to exhibit delayed closure of their growth plates. Growth plates are the cartilage bands located in the ends of the animal's long bones, which are responsible for making the bones grow and elongate during juvenile bone development and formation. As a result of delayed growth plate closure, desexed animals will often be taller and longer in limb than entire male animals. Whether this increase in bone length should be considered a problem or benefit really depends on the individual owner, but some people choose not to desex animals early because of it (i.e. there is a concern that these animals may be more prone to orthopedic injuries). Author's note - Any concerns about the effects of delayed growth plate closure, whilst not normally a problem, can be overcome by desexing after the growth plates have closed. 5. Neutering reduces the male animal's drive to herd, hunt, guard and work: Although this phenomenon has yet to be proven, many farmers, hunters and owners of guarding, sporting and working dogs will refuse to desex them because of the fear that their neutered animals will no longer have any drive to perform the work required of them. This topic is discussed in more detail in section 8b. Author's note: one could well argue that such a dog might work better if it does not have testosterone-fuelled hormonal urges distracting it from the task at hand. 6. As an elective procedure, desexing costs too much: The high cost of veterinary services, including desexing, is another reason why some pet owners choose not to get their pets desexed. See section 9 for more about the costs of neutering.
cuttest little puppy :)
frog lifestyle :)
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Dog feeding
Here are tips on feeding your dog! Again, tips are taken from http://pets.webmd.com/
Enjoy!!
Good nutrition is important for dogs. It keeps them healthy and happy. But there’s no set formula for how often you feed your dog or what you put in his bowl. That’s because each pooch is different.
“Nutritional requirements for dogs vary by breed, size, age, and health,” says Jerry Klein, DVM, chief veterinary officer for the American Kennel Club (AKC).
Ask your vet to recommend the best food for your pup. But you can also keep a few general guidelines in mind when you’re filling your dog’s dish.
Commercial Dog Food
It may not look like much, but commercial dog food is designed to meet all of a dog’s nutritional needs. Most products have meat, grains, vegetables, fruit, and vitamins. The American College of Veterinary Nutrition says commercial foods are safe and healthful options for feeding pets.
Be sure to pick the food that’s right for your dog’s stage of life -- puppy, pregnant or nursing, or adult.
Check the package for a statement from the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) that the food is “complete and balanced.” ”Complete” means the food has all the nutrients that dogs of that life stage require, and “balanced” means the nutrients are in the correct ratios.
When it comes to wet or dry food, both can have benefits.
“Dry food is believed to be better for a dog’s teeth. Wet food provides more moisture, which is especially helpful for those dogs that don’t drink a lot of water,” Klein says.
Most vets say it’s really a toss-up -- both are nutritious.
How Much, How Often?
According to the AKC, puppies 6 months and younger should eat three to four times a day. At 6 months, they can eat twice daily. Once pups become adults, they can get one or two meals a day, depending on how much exercise they get. The best way to know what’s right for your dog? Check with your vet.
The same goes for how much you put in their bowls. Klein says you can start by following the serving size guidelines on the package of your dog’s food. But your vet can get specific about the best amount for his age, breed, and level of activity. A young border collie who plays and runs for most of the day may need a lot of food to keep him going, especially when it’s hot or cold outside. But an elderly Chihuahua who mostly lounges in your lap probably won’t.
“The biggest thing we see pet owners do wrong when it comes to feeding dogs is to overfeed them,” Klein says. “It’s important to feed the right amount and right kinds of food to keep the animal at a healthy weight.”
Can a Dog Be Vegetarian?
Because not all vegetables are safe, it will take some work to make your doggie a vegetarian. Dogs need a balanced diet, just like humans, so you’re going to have to look for sources of proteins, other than meat, to give him.
“To feed a dog a vegetarian diet takes a lot of research, planning, and work to make it a diet that provides the nutrition and balance that a dog needs to thrive,” Klein says. “It can be difficult to create a vegetarian diet that provides a dog with all the nutrition it needs.”
If it’s important to you, ask your vet for advice on how to do it right.
Table Scraps
Although there are some foods from your plate that you can give a dog, you’ve got to be careful. The FDA warns that chocolate, fatty foods, chicken bones, moldy foods, salty snacks, and raw meat are not good for pets.
Carmela Stamper, DVM, a veterinarian at the FDA, says some items might harm one dog and not another. It depends on a dog’s genetic makeup and size, as well as the amount that animal eats. “A big Lab that eats a bar of dark chocolate may not have any problems,” she says, ”whereas a Chihuahua could get dangerously ill.”
If you do treat your pup from the table, keep an eye on how much you’re giving -- extras outside of his dog food should only be about 10% of his daily diet.
aww little puppy :)
Puppy housetraining
Few weeks ago we got a brand new labrador puppy. I found some tips and tricks on hpusetraining puppies.
Tips are from http://pets.webmd.com/.
Enjoy!
House training your puppy is about consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement. The goal is to instill good habits and build a loving bond with your pet.
It typically takes 4-6 months for a puppy to be fully house trained, but some puppies may take up to a year. Size can be a predictor. For instance, smaller breeds have smaller bladders and higher metabolisms and require more frequent trips outside. Your puppy's previous living conditions are another predictor. You may find that you need to help your puppy break old habits in order to establish more desirable ones.
And while you're training, don’t worry if there are setbacks. As long as you continue a management program that includes taking puppy out at the first sign he needs to go and offering him rewards, he’ll learn.
When to Begin House Training Puppy
Experts recommend that you begin house training your puppy when he is between 12 weeks and 16 weeks old. At that point, he has enough control of his bladder and bowel movements to learn to hold it.
If your puppy is older than 12 weeks when you bring him home and he’s been eliminating in a cage (and possibly eating his waste), house training may take longer. You will have to reshape the dog’s behavior -- with encouragement and reward.
Steps for Housetraining Your Puppy
Experts recommend confining the puppy to a defined space, whether that means in a crate, in a room, or on a leash. As your puppy learns that he needs to go outside to do his business, you can gradually give him more freedom to roam about the house.
When you start to house train, follow these steps:
Keep the puppy on a regular feeding schedule and take away his food between meals.
Take puppy out to eliminate first thing in the morning and then once every 30 minutes to an hour. Also, always take him outside after meals or when he wakes from a nap. Make sure he goes out last thing at night and before he’s left alone.
Take puppy to the same spot each time to do his business. His scent will prompt him to go.
Stay with him outside, at least until he’s house trained.
When your puppy eliminates outside, praise him or give him a treat. A walk around the neighborhood is a nice reward.
My new doggo :) Cutest little labrador :)
How to take care for a hamster - part 6
Here is part 6 in mini-series of taking care for hamster. As always, text is from wikihow.com. Enjoy! :)
Cleaning Your Hamster's Home
Place your hamster in a safe place. While you are cleaning their home, place your hamster in their hamster ball or in a playpen. You want to take your time while you clean and you’ll need both hands. Do not try to hold on to your hamster with one hand while you clean with the other. It won’t be good for your cleaning job or for your hamster.
Clean the cage thoroughly.
Use regular dish soap mixed with water. Even the tiniest trace of other types of soap (like hand-wash) can prove uncomfortable for your furry buddy. Use special hamster or rodent cleaning soap, which you can buy from most pet shops.
You can also use a vinegar solution to clean the hamster’s habitat.
Rinse the cage and let dry. Make sure that all the water has evaporated and all of the cleaning solution has been removed. Remember that hamsters have sensitive noses and the scent of vinegar or soap will be bothersome.
Replace their bedding. In order to retain the hamster's scent on the bedding, mix a small amount of unspoiled bedding with new bedding. Cheap bedding can be found at most grocery stores. Another good bedding is shredded tissue; you could also use shredded paper towel. Do not use newspaper, as the hamster will lick the ink off it and this will make it extremely ill. Never use pine or cedar wood shavings, as they are unhealthy for hamsters. Aspen is fine.
How to take care for a hamster - part 5
In this mini-serie of taking care for a hamster, I bring you 5th part - Getting Your Hamster to Exercise. Again, tips are from wikihow.com. Enjoy!!
Get a suitable hamster wheel. The wheels that come with the cages are generally too small and isn't good for the hamster's back. A wheel is too small if your hamster's back curves upwards. Buy one that is minimum 20cm (7.9in) for a dwarf hamster and 28cm (11in) for a Syrian. Don't be afraid to go bigger.
Be sure that you have lots of toys for the hamster to enjoy. Toys such as toilet paper rolls, empty tissue boxes, tubes, tunnels, nest boxes, PVC piping, and hamster chew toys are fun for your hamster. Most hamster owners simply give the hamster a wheel and a ball to enjoy. As a result, the hamster will start to have unhealthy habits such as pacing and/or chewing the bars of a wire cage (if housed in a wire cage, that is). Your hamster needs more than just wheels and balls to occupy itself. Have enough toys so that you can rotate them and keep your hamster interested.
Set up a playpen.
Your hamster will relish the chance to explore outside of their cages. Having play areas also helps when you clean the habitat and need a place to put your hamster where it can't escape. You can use a plastic storage bin in your house or a small animal playpen sold in pet stores.
Make sure that there are no dangerous items that the hamster has access to (such as electrical cords which your hamster will chew on) and that the room is escape-proof.
happy easter!!
flower power
How to take care for a Hamster part 4
Hi guys! This is part 4 from mini-serie of taking care for hamsters. Again, tips are from wikihow.com
Enjoy!
Acclimating Your Hamster
Leave your hamster alone to explore its new home. When first bringing your hamster home, place it in its cage, with fresh food and water, and leave it alone. Cover the hamster's cage with a light cloth so that it can explore the cage or habitat in privacy. Make sure there is enough food, water, and toys to keep the hamster occupied for a few days, as you will should not go near the hamster during this initial period. If there are children, friends, or guests in the house, make sure they know not to disturb the hamster.
Gradually introduce yourself. After about 3 days of leaving your hamster alone, you and your hamster can start to become acquainted. When approaching the cage, speak softly to alert the hamster of your presence. Your hamster may be nervous at first, but remember he or she is not used to you yet and don't be discouraged. Start the things you should do daily such as changing food and water, as well as replacing old toys and putting in new toys. Also, try to remove soiled bedding. Your hamster will start to get used to your hand being in the cage.
Begin the taming process.
Have short taming sessions starting on the second week of your hamster being in its new home. Most hamsters are active during the early to late evening and throughout the night. Try to learn the hamster's individual routine and do taming sessions when it is most active. A good way to tame your hamster is to put your hamster in an empty bathtub then get in yourself. Bring in a few toys for your hamster to play with whilst its getting used to your presence. Do not force your hamster to play if it does not want to. If during the training stage your hamster bites/scratches do not punish it.
To tame your hamster, place your hand in the cage. Let your hamster sniff it and explore it. If the hamster nips gently and not out of aggression, pull your hand back gently, but immediately let it explore your hand again. This will help the hamster learn that the hand is nothing to bite or fear. Next, place treats in your hand; seed mixtures are good for this because as a supplement to the pellet or block-type diet, hamsters love this food. Your hamster should become used to climbing onto your hand, learning that the hand is something to climb into. Gradually move the treat up your hand, as your hamster will become more and more comfortable climbing onto it.
If your hamster is showing good progress, try to let your hamster climb onto your hand and offer it treats right after it has. Your hamster will see your hand as a good thing. This time, let your hamster climb onto your hand, and lift the hand slowly off of the cage floor. Your hamster may be frightened at first, but speak softly and offer it treats to make it feel more comfortable. Sit on the floor during this step, as your hamster may decide to leap out of your hands and can be injured once falling from about 6-8 inches (15-20cm) off the ground.
Respect its sleeping cycle. Although hamsters are nocturnal animals, they do shuffle around some in the day to get food and such. Although it may seem awake, it's not in the mood to play, unless you see that it feels otherwise. Likewise, keep other people around the hamster to a minimum. It's important that the hamster only bonds with you for now, as it will have plenty of friends later. But now, it needs to know that you are its companion and you will never harm it.