Santiago

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What happened to 2020?

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Day 18 back to Santiago

A 60km final ride back to Santiago. We made a late (0900) start and then had a really good but hilly ride back to Santiago.

Once we got about 5km from Santiago we stopped for lunch.

The four bikes above have done over 10,000km between them in the last few weeks.

It was then time to part company with Mark from Belgium because he had an early flight tomorrow, so we went into Santiago whilst he went to the airport. He intended to send his bike home using the Spanish postal service only to discover on arrival that the only country they could not deliver to was Belgium. Fortunately Stijn lives fairly near to Mark but in Holland so Mark sent his bike to Holland instead.

It was then time to go into Santiago and make like tourists.

Sadly there is a lot of restoration work taking place on the cathedral so it was not at it's best.

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Day 17 to Finisterre

Although I suppose the arrival in Santiago should be the highlight of the trip, today was another great ride. We set off in early morning fog and after a very up and down ride we arrived at the point where we could go no further. A truly beautiful place and as if to order the sun came out. We met Mark and Carlson along the way but had to leave them whilst they finished their breakfast but we met up again at the cape.

After leaving Finisterre we cycled about 40km back towards Santiago leaving a relatively short final ride tomorrow. Unfortunately it involved one of the hardest climbs to date. In each of the last 3 days we have climbed over 6000 feet.

We have now arrived in what is probably the best Alberque we have stayed in so far and only 12 euro per night. The only thing spoiling it is a VERY loud American who I think might find out shortly how rude the British/Germans/Dutch/Belgians can be and I don't think he will understand why - bet he voted for Trump.

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Day 16 to Santiago

Another great ride but slow internet tonight again.

Will try to put some pictures on.

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Day 15 to Portomarin

WiFi not very good so will try to add pictures later.

Stayed a donations only hostel last night. Still cycling will fellow pilgrim Stijn from Holland.

Another cold start and then a long climb to 1300 metres. Very dramatic countryside. Probably the best ride to date. The climb was longer than yesterday's because we started at a lower level .

Should make it to Santiago tomorrow.

We are starting to see a different - type of pilgrim - not very sun tanned, carrying very small packs, supported by a minibus etc. Also some e-bikes. Two on brand new e-bikes yesterday with headsets and microphones.

Since writing thee first part of this have discovered that there is a music festival in Santiago this weekend and all accommodation is taken so will be going through and on to Finisterre instead of staying.

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Day 14 to Ponferrada

Probably the best ride so far.

Good hostel last night. Still riding with Stijn from Holland. His sister is walking the Camino. She started from Holland in March. We caught up with her last night and had dinner together.

It was a very cold start this morning, only 2 degrees.

Pretty common sight - storks on the church tower.

But at least Santiago is getting nearer.

Then across the bridge into Hospital de Orbigo.

Then a little further met Zoo the dog who was doing the Camino but who needed his German friend to help him.

Then climbed to the highest point on the Camino about 1500 metres.

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Day 13 to Leon

Another great ride along the route of the Camino - some of these poor souls hobbling along at the side of the road after toiling for several weeks across Spain really should get a bike.

Think I lost the next bit so will try again.

Today a ride across pretty flat desolate uplands. About 160 kms to Leon. My heart goes out to the pilgrims walking this who will take 4, 5 or 6 days to do in what we did today.

Hoped I wasn't going to hae to talk about the weather again but gee, the strongest headwind yet for most of the ride. Still what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.

Hard to take picture that does it justice, but the one below is my best effort.

Just amazing how many people are walking this route and from some many different countries, but only met one fellow Brit so far.

In a very nice clean and tidy hostel tonight.

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Day 12 pt 3

Burgos

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Day 12 pt 2

At last a back wind.

Rode all day with the Dutch cyclist I met yesterday. Good company.

Burgos was perhaps the high point. Yet another place I would like to return to.

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Day 12 to Castrojeriz

So I don't run the risk of losing my posts again I will do them in parts.

So today, after a good night in the hostel and a 0700 start a very good ride - 140 kms.

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Day 11 to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Another post already written but it seems that when the connection is lost so is the post. I will try again with this one tonight.

The original doesn't seem to have turned up so I shall try again.

A good night sleep then straight away in the morning up some steep hills. Estelle seemed to be in party mood - the streets were still full of drunken youngsters at 9am.

The tap on the right is free to fill your water bottle. The one on the left is free wine! Not a great vintage but it is the thought that counts.

Logrono - another town in party mood.

Roadkill Spanish style.

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Day 10

Day 10 already exists but I didn't i didn't include it on the Santiago blog. I'll edit it when I get on a proper computer.

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Day 9 to St Jean Pied de Port

Literally this means ' St Jean at the foot of the pass.

Another good days ride. Firstly through the Landes, then the beach area near Cape Breton, then Bayonne and finally into the Pyrenees.

The ride down through the Landes was mostly along really good cycle tracks. These can often be a problem because they are often badly signed if you are travelling further afield - no such problem today, as long as there was a strong headwind you were going in the right direction.

Finally saw the sea at Cape Breton. Not even the surfers were out.

Then on through Bayonne. I thought I'd taken a picture but it seems to have disappeared. Had lunch sat by the river then found my way out by riding a cycle path along the banks of the River Nive before joining the road or a fairly gentle 40km climb to St Jean.

The River Nive at St Jean.

The Porte D'Espagne which is the way out tomorrow to go over the pass to Spain.

Only one bag of boil in the bag rice left for any emergency, hopefully my self catering days are over for now and I should be able to find Pilgrim meals, starting tonight.

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Day 10 to Puente La Reina

First day of the main Camino route and first night in a pilgrim hostel. The hostel overnight was fine. Six other people in the dormitory, all very quiet. The owner said breakfast was 6.30 to 7, so at 6 I started to get ready but nobody else stirred. I packed up and went downstairs quietly to find breakfast all laid out and our host waiting. I asked if this was usual and he said not, mostly people wanted to set off before it was too hot, so I breakfasted alone and left!

From St Jean it was a climb to the pass, crossing the border into Spain after about 20 minutes.

It was then a steady 2 and half hour climb to he top of the pass.

A really nice day through some stunning Spanish countryside and some more steep hills. There was some sort of festival in Pamplona - a city to come back to when we are in the area.

After about 100km stopped at a hostel, did my ablutions and laundry. Very nice clean hostel but very busy.

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Day 9 to St Jean Pied de Port

Good ride today. already posted this once but the gremlins seem to hae interfered with it so here is an abridged version because if I try to write something again version 1 is sure to turn up.

Cape Breton - guess where the surfers are and why?

St Jean.

St Jean again - Porte D'Espagne through which he Camino goes.

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Day 8 to Gastes

Another great day in the saddle. Bit of a nightmare getting through Bordeaux - traffic was a standstill for about 10 miles. But I did come across something I had not seen before - this sign.

Used extensively in Bordeaux area at traffic lights meaning that cyclists only have to treat them as give way signs. A win all round - safer and easier for cyclists and means car drivers don't have to wind down their windows and hurl abuse when cyclists jump a light! Should be made standard.

Just after I took the picture of the sign I came across this fellow - my first real sign of the pilgrimage route.

Once clear of Bordeaux it was a steady flat ride across the Lande area. I travelled for much of the way along the old Bayonne road (now the D1010) which in it's time would have been the main road from Bordeaux to Spain, but is now very quiet. This large monument is in memory of those who died fighting a fire in the area in 1949.

Wind was a game of three halves - none, then back wind then head wind so overall neutral impact I guess. 159km covered so now more han half way there.