-1- Ace: Salvi Cosplay
-2- Snake: @vilyacosplay
-3- Santa: Karelliann
-4- Clover: @akatsukiskycosplay (costume made by @crazycatflanna)
-5- Junpei: @maxmadeonetoreblogstuff
-6- June: @vamp-elanor
-7- Seven: @vamp-elanor
-8- Lotus: Salvi Cosplay
-9- Ninth Man: Lunedor Cosplay
Funyarinpa as himself
Zero Escape: Nine Hours, Nine Persons, Nine Doors
Photos by Lexa One
Thank you!! I was tasked with making my watch first to work out the technique and then teaching the rest of the group how to make theirs. The blue threads are electrical wire, the red and silver parts are craft foam and the black parts are Super Sculpey.
-1- Ace: Salvi Cosplay
-2- Snake: @vilyacosplay
-3- Santa: Karelliann
-4- Clover: @akatsukiskycosplay (costume made by @crazycatflanna)
-5- Junpei: @maxmadeonetoreblogstuff
-6- June: @vamp-elanor
-7- Seven: @vamp-elanor
-8- Lotus: Salvi Cosplay
-9- Ninth Man: Lunedor Cosplay
Funyarinpa as himself
Zero Escape: Nine Hours, Nine Persons, Nine Doors
Photos by Lexa One
Thank you!! I was tasked with making my watch first to work out the technique and then teaching the rest of the group how to make theirs. The blue threads are electrical wire, the red and silver parts are craft foam and the black parts are Super Sculpey.
-1- Ace: Salvi Cosplay
-2- Snake: @vilyacosplay
-3- Santa: Karelliann
-4- Clover: @akatsukiskycosplay (costume made by @crazycatflanna)
-5- Junpei: @maxmadeonetoreblogstuff
-6- June: @vamp-elanor
-7- Seven: @vamp-elanor
-8- Lotus: Salvi Cosplay
-9- Ninth Man: Lunedor Cosplay
Funyarinpa as himself
Zero Escape: Nine Hours, Nine Persons, Nine Doors
Photos by Lexa One
I’ve been asked many times how I sealed the Worbla on my Wrathion costume for it to look this smooth. I don’t have progress pictures but I can explain since it’s pretty straightforward. This technique not only allows you to have a smooth surface, it gives you the chance to refine the shape and erase seams if, like me, you’re unable to form Worbla perfectly. Also, if you use a flexible paint and varnish on top, your piece will remain bendable without cracking.
Hey, this happens to be very similar to the process I developed for smoothing brown worbla! I did this for parts of my black knight, and I can confirm that it will give a very smooth, flexible surface that completely hides the worbla texture. A few things I’d like to add -
I use gesso in conjunction with auto body filler primer, which is also quite flexible. I apply a few light coats of the primer first, before the gesso, and at the very end, to fill in any tiny imperfections that the gesso missed.
I also found that putting one coat of regular gesso on top of the super heavy gesso makes it easier to sand. The super heavy gesso has an annoying rubbery feel to it, and the lighter stuff doesn’t.
This is just personal preference, but I like to do only one coat of the heavy gesso at a time and repeat if necessary. It dries faster and I use less if only one coat is needed.
Trowels or palate knives are awesome for getting the heavy gesso on relatively smoothly.
Lastly, in places that don’t need to flex very much, you can use spot putty to fill any larger imperfections missed by the gesso.
Interesting notes! I’ve never worked with filler primer before but it sounds promising!
I second the knife remark; I only mentioned it for the last coat but a blade tool can be used to apply any/all super heavy gesso coats.
One coat of super heavy gesso is never enough for me but this may depend on the project. If going with only one coat happens to work, it’s an entirely valid way of doing it, and yay for using less material.
shinyachiba replied to your photo:Texture on the tunic for the Anduin Wrynn cosplay...
I was just gonna get into quilting! What did you use as backing? c:
I used normal lining fabric under the batting. I’m no expert but I think anything thin and not stretchy should do the trick.
I’m only just starting out myself so I don’t know a whole lot on the subject... I can recommend using a walking foot on the machine. Most tutorials I’ve seen or read talked about it and I can confirm it really is a dream to work with. But it’s a little on the expensive side unfortunately.
Enjoy! I know I’m liking quilting a lot so far, it’s very relaxing!
Have you ever used Bondo before? It's an automotive body filler, but it kind of serves the same purpose as super heavy gesso in that you can use it to basically re-sculpt whatever you're putting it on and fill in any flaws. I think it would be too bulky to use on fine Worbla details, but maybe it would be better for larger pieces? Regardless, your Worbla sealing tutorial was super helpful, and thank you for posting it!
Interesting idea, anon!
I do know Bondo. I use it as a cheaper alternative to resin for casting small pieces such as buttons. As you said, it can be compared to super heavy gesso in that it’s an air-drying paste that can be applied and sanded to correct flaws. Plus, it cures faster than super heavy gesso dries, it has a sturdier surface and it can be sanded into very precise shapes. However, I wouldn’t use it on Worbla for the same reason that I stay away from wood filler, plaster and most air-drying clays: it isn’t flexible at all. This isn’t a problem if your base object is completely solid, and indeed if you’ve put Worbla over a completely solid base that’s still there to support it. But in a lot of cases, Worbla is either used alone or with foam, and whether you intend your piece in its final shape to be bendable or no, it probably will be at least a little bit because that’s how Worbla and foam are. And using a medium that will crack rather than bend over a core that is capable of bending… It’s not ideal. Imagine if you accidentally drop your piece on the floor and the Worbla just bounces back but the Bondo can’t follow the movement and cracks instead.
This is all in theory, mind you. I have not tried sealing Worbla with Bondo. I could be wrong. I’d be very interested to hear from people who have tried it, and I now have a mind to experiment with it myself and see how it behaves on short and long terms. But from what I know of both Worbla and Bondo, I don’t think they’re a good match because of Worbla’s flexibility and Bondo’s lack thereof. In cases where Worbla doesn’t have its flexibility, such as when it’s supported by non-flexible matter or when it’s stacked thickly enough, then yes, absolutely, go for it. Depending on how well it adheres to Worbla, Bondo might even be advantageous here because of its sturdiness. Otherwise, my choice out of the mediums I know and have access to, remains super heavy gesso because it will have no problem bending with the Worbla. The primer in spray that I say in my tutorial can be added over the super heavy gesso for better precision does add a little risk of cracking, which is why I only recommend it for pieces that are not intended to bend, but it represents only a small layer compared to the sealing paste, and I can vouch that it has withstood accidental drops to the floor.
So these are my thoughts on the topic! I’m sorry I can’t give a more clear-cut answer. Thank you for offering the idea, anon, and I’m very happy if my tutorial was helpful!
I've been asked many times how I sealed the Worbla on my Wrathion costume for it to look this smooth. I don't have progress pictures but I can explain since it's pretty straightforward. This technique not only allows you to have a smooth surface, it gives you the chance to refine the shape and erase seams if, like me, you're unable to form Worbla perfectly. Also, if you use a flexible paint and varnish on top, your piece will remain bendable without cracking.
1. Take the time to shape the Worbla as best as you can. A soldering iron is an invaluable tool for this.
2. Apply 1 coat of liquid gesso so that what we put on top adheres better (even though we're talking about plastic and it unfortunately won't adhere perfectly even then).
3. Apply 2 very thick layers of super heavy gesso. It's gesso with the consistency of greek yogourt or cake icing. It's very hard to apply smoothly but all we want here is as much thickness as possible without loosing sight of the Worbla's shape underneath. Since super heavy gesso remains slightly malleable when dry and can be vulnerable to hits, I prefer stopping after 2 layers for the bare minimum and therefore less fragility.
4. After at least 36 hours of drying, you're ready to sand. You're basically resculpting your armor and correcting any flaws in the shape. I use coarse sandpaper for this (40-60 grit).
5. If you've pierced through to the Worbla, fill the hole with super heavy gesso and sand more delicately in that spot.
6. If you need your piece of armor to remain flexible, apply 1 last thin super heavy gesso coat with a paint spatula or knife and use a fine sandpaper (~220 grit) to even everything out. You're now ready to paint.
7. If your armor does not need to bend, you can achieve greater precision with a primer in spray. I apply 4 thick coats and sand into the final shape with 100-150 grit. Since in some places you'll have uncovered the super heavy gesso underneath, and considering that paint may be absorbed differently by the primer and the gesso, put 2 thin final coats of primer and polish down the spray texture with a used 220 grit sandpaper. You're now ready to paint.
This sealing technique takes me around 10 days, but it's 10 days of inactive drying time for the most part. You do have to sand everything a total of 3 times, however a lot less time is put into applying layers than with the liquid gesso or wood glue methods. The surface remains slightly vulnerable to hits and sharp objects but not significantly more so than any other painted surfaces.
I won't say that this is the best technique to seal Worbla but it's what I found works well through experimenting. I hope this helps, and I'm all ears if anyone has advice or suggestions!
archmageofazeroth replied to your photoset: Selfies from Otakuthon 2016 in Montréal last...
oh my god you two are freaking perfection xD
archmageofazeroth replied to your photoset: Selfies from Otakuthon 2016 in Montréal last...
also pls explain the cucumber. i’ll just be over here losing my shit while i wait
Well I’m glad you asked! The cucumber with eyeglasses is in reference to when Khadgar says to Cordana: “I had that handled. Cool as a cucumber.” during the Draenor questline. It’s not a noteworthy moment or anything but it’s one of Khadgar’s lines the two of us remember the most, and from what I’ve seen of the fandom we’re not the only ones.
Also, thank you so much!!
“If you have the courage to stand up... I will show you the way.”
Sebastian Debeste: @vilyacosplay
Miles Edgeworth: ColonelTavington
Miles Edgeworth: Ace Attorney Investigations 2
Photos by AkatsukiSky
jacobvanloon
izzy806
dededos
kianamaiart
stormborns
pixelskylines
