The other Onsen Town that Inspires a Scene in Spirited Away… Shima Onsen
It’s been controversial whether which exact location is the true inspiration for the street full of red lanterns and the red wooden bridge town appearing in the famous anime, Spirited Away. Some say it is Ginzan Onsen town in Yamagata prefecture, and some say it is the city of Juifen in Taiwan. Some say it is this small onsen town in Gunma prefecture, Shima Onsen.
(Shima Onsen Entrance by Day)
(Shima Onsen Entrance by Night)
The name Shima Onsen is written in Kanji as 四万温泉, which means 40,000 onsens. The name can be misleading and difficult to read as the Kanji 四万 can be read as シマ and ヨンマン. No, the town doesn’t have as many onsens as 40,000 locations (though that might be possible). However, the name, according to the onsen, derives from the history that this little onsen town used to be a retreat spot for people seeking ways to cure their illness. When western medicine was still not existing, many Japanese believed that Onsen can be a miracle treatment. The onsen retreat is believed to have cured more than 40,000 diseases in the past. Therefore, it was given the name 四万温泉.
I visited the hotel in mid-February. It felt a little late for winter as the weather started to be warmer in Tokyo. It seemed that winter ended early this year. Yet, we were able to see some snow in the middle of the mountains in North Kanto region.
(Still Very Cold at Nearby Shimagawa Dam)
Shima Onsen is a photogenic place, not only because of its outstanding red wooden bridge at the entrance but also because of the building complex itself. The main onsen hall, which includes 5 small onsen tubs, is the main location where patients were receiving treatments in the old days. The whole complex is comprised of 3 buildings connected through 3 separate lifts. The lowest complex was a shared room built to serve budget travelers, while the second and third complexes are more luxurious, respectively.
The other onsen location, as well as the private onsen room, are located in the garden on top of the mountain. To access the private onsen room, a walk through a snowy path is required. I found this to be amazing - especially on the way back - as the cold weather could cool me down after the hot onsen bath.
(A Trace of Snow in Mid-February)
It is undeniable that what makes ryokan experience special is the food. I love both the dinner and the breakfast sets provided by the ryokan. All of them are Japanese food, cooked with famous ingredients from various parts of Japan, especially rice and seafood from Niigata prefecture. I also love the Omotenashi (おもてなし)service of the staff who took care of us. He was very kind and share the same feeling of being a foreigner away from home like me.
(A Part of a 10-Course Dinner Set)
(Grilled Fish for Breakfast)
If you have a car, Shima Onsen is about 2 hours away from Tokyo. If you use the train, make sure that you spare some time for the local train and check your bus schedule. It is advised that you check with the hotel about the weather condition before you travel.
(An Onsen Village Seemed Quiet on Weekday)
(First Time Playing This Retro Marble Game)
(A Public Onsen that Wasn't Open to Public on the Day)