Took a detour on my way up to Sears Point this past weekend. I lost my splitter(s) at Buttonwillow the weekend before. Oops.
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@332is
Took a detour on my way up to Sears Point this past weekend. I lost my splitter(s) at Buttonwillow the weekend before. Oops.
If you had told me that a lean #6 cylinder and an oil pressure gauge that quits reading when it's hot were related, I probably wouldn't have believed it. At least, not until I found the pressure sender wire pinched between the head and #6 intake manifold runner. It's been like this at least since I fixed the clutch (January?). Hopefully that's the end of my misfire woes, as I'm 2 months overdue on getting this thing smogged 😁
More cheater tunes for my good dude @erdonovan7. #flimflamspeed #e36 #m3 #nasaracing #dyno #bmw (at FlimFlam Speed & Custom Tuning)
🤔🤔🤔
I participated in my first real (helmets-required) autocross yesterday with SCCA with some friends also driving my car. It’s definitely a different experience than driving on the track, I thought for $70 it wouldn’t be worth it for how much driving time you get, but it was a lot of fun!
I went to Thunderhill this past weekend and all I did was break my new GT splitter on three separate occasions.
Virginia City Hillclimb day 1
I’ve been seriously impressed with this car for the past two days. Last year I did a 4:01.859 in my ZHP – hoping to beat 3:50 this time around.
I got a Rieger M3 GT replica lip for my birthday last week and it looks pretty great! I’m interested to see what effect it has at the track. I may need to make a partial under tray behind it, as all of the stock pieces have been destroyed on this car. I’d also love to fix the giant dent in the left door, but that won’t make the car any faster.
Chuckwalla, 11/22/15
I forgot to post this. It’s my fastest run at Virginia City last year, a 3:42.687 up Nevada SR341. Enjoy!
The empty, wet weight of my car was actually lower than what I was expecting, coming in under 3200lb. Thanks to my buddy Trevor at King Shocks for letting me use their scale set. With me in the car, the corner weight is nearly perfect, and somehow the car ends up being rear-heavy. The car has basically no weight removed (SRS wheel and washer tank have been removed, and some of the engine parts are lighter than stock) so I’m hopeful to get this thing well under 3000lb.
I started removing interior pieces to further get the weight down, or at least to offset the weight of all the stuff about to be welded in...
I don't think I ever posted about this, but what a difference another inch of travel makes. Going from 6" to 7" springs transformed the front end of the car. It turns out that rolling over onto the bump stops makes the car push like mad! #wow #whoa
I bought and installed a set of BFGoodrich g-Force Rivals in 245/40R17 to fit on the 17x8.5 TRMotorsport C2s I got from my brother for Christmas. My 2002 is photobombing.
I finally got around to installing the E46 M3 oil filter housing and oil cooler that I’d had kicking around for months. I was mostly hung up on how to plumb it, and where to put a temperature sender, but managed to do a pretty good job, I think.
The cooler is mounted sideways. Originally I wanted it mounted with the ports facing upwards, as this would eliminate any possible draining issue, but running the -10 AN lines would be very challenging in that way. I also wanted to install an oil temperature sender in the feed to the cooler, of which there are two possibilities - buy a $50 block, or buy a running T-fitting and a special adapter nut. In the end, I chose to do neither of these, and bought an M12x1.50-thread sender to replace the oil pan drain plug with. Eventually, I will pull the pan off and weld in a separate bung for the sender.
The E46 M3 oil filter housing is complimented with the Achilles Motorsports VANOS adapter line. The thread diameter is different on the S54 VANOS unit than the S52, so one option is to either drill and tap the VANOS unit threads, or buy a specially made step-up banjo bolt. Achilles’ solution is to make a short AN line with nylon hose. Gets rid of the need for nonstandard hardware and looks cool too.
Oil cooler brackets are basically just piece of aluminum available at your local hardware store. The bottom one takes over the mounting holes for the electric pusher fan. The top one goes across the top mounting holes for the fan. In this case it was pretty wide so I milled out a slot to provide a little more airflow.
Now because I removed the electric fan, I had to reinstall the mechanical fan which I had removed. I have a Spal electric puller fan to install in place of the mechanical fan; that plan is in the works. I’m thinking of designing and building an aluminum fan shroud for that piece.
The bill of materials is all -10 AN consisting of: one straight hose ends, two 45° hose end, one 90° hose end, and about 6 feet of stainless braided hose. Everything is Summit Racing Equipment's in-house brand, which is actually very good for the money as far as quality goes.
As for performance, I’m very happy with this setup. I no longer get the oil pressure light to illuminate after a hard drive, with the pressure dropping down to about 10 psi at idle. Still not great, but far improved. At the track, I never saw the gauge move to 200°F. Unfortunately I don’t have information for where it would run before the cooler, but simply based on the pressure situation I have to assume it was significantly higher.
I wasn’t able to rev-match a downshift when my foot got stuck under the accelerator pedal, tried dumping the clutch anyway.
Quick, immediate update: still getting misfires. Only occurs at low speed. Sometimes I can feel it start to misfire but clears out, occasionally bad enough to drop the cylinder and throw a CEL. I’m thinking it could be a vacuum leak causing a lean condition. Thoughts?
I’ve been really bad about posting updates, but I’ve done two track days since my last post - one at Chuckwalla, and another at Buttonwillow.
Both went well, although during my last session at Chuckwalla I noticed that the car suddenly got really loud (read: really cool). Unfortunately not for the right reasons, as I blew out the cylinder 1-2-3 exhaust manifold to mid pipe gasket. Limping the car home though Palm Springs traffic presented another problem: cylinder 6 dropped out for misfiring and the car started sounding like a college kid’s stock WRX with a catback.
Ok, so after my rebuild, I didn’t change any ignition components. I think I actually even ran the same plugs as before (I have a weird habit of doing that, I did the same thing on my 2002). I bit the bullet and bought a new Bosch coil for #6. No more misfires! Perfect. Although in the process of repairing the exhaust manifold gasket, I broke a stud on the manifold, and in turn discovered that those stupid things are made of Inconel and cost $20/each. Or, they cost $1.05 each if you buy a zinc-plated bolt from the hardware store down the street. I don’t really care if it rusts, because I’ll probably have it off again before it has the chance to.
Another event at Buttonwillow went well. The tires felt like crap, although I was able to get 5 seconds/lap out of them for a couple of laps by running them backwards. After that, though, they gave up the ghost. Combined with the fact that they were both flat-spotted in MULTIPLE places (thanks, broken ABS), they weren’t even worth it to put on the daily. It was pretty embarrassing to struggle as much as I did to get past a LeMons/Chump Car-spec E36 325i.
A week or two after Buttonwillow I found that the thing was still misfiring, this time on #1. Fuck it, time to replace the coil packs. A week later and ANOTHER MISFIRE ON #1. FUCK IT, NEW PLUG BOOTS. Since then, no issues, although I can still feel it run rough occasionally, which I am going to willingly ignore. The BMW diagnostic scanner isn’t reporting any pending misfires or DME problems.