Chicken wings
It was a fine fall friday evening in Massachusetts. I had been there for just a couple of months, a skinny, sweet-faced Indian kid, already missing everything he had left back in India. A fellow American grad student with whom I shared the occupancy of my university lab approached me in earnest. Ever since I had made his acquaintance, he had been the recipient of daily complaints about how American food was so flavorless compared to spicy Indian food. Today, he had decided to expose me to something called âBuffalo chicken wingsâ. You want spicy, Iâll show you spicy, said my labmate whom Iâll call Burt because that was his name.
âBuffalo chicken wings, huhâ, I said. It was the first time I was hearing about this zoological oddity. We took the campus bus to our local mall housing the Ground Round brewing company that was our destination for these wings.
The menu in the Ground Round rated wings from 1 to 5 fire alarms in increasing severity of heat. Since Instagram did not exist at the time, Burt was ready with pad and pencil to sketch my reaction to the heat explosion. The waiter arrived to take our order.
âIâll do a dozen of the 3-alarm wingsâ, I said, just to be on the safe side.
Burt was shocked. âAre you sure, these things kick assâ, he said. His concern for my well-being touched me to the very core of my core.
âOkay waitâ, I said to the waiter, âIâll go with the 2-alarm wings insteadâ. Burt looked relieved.
The wings arrived in due course. I took a tentative bite. Burt was scanning my face for my reaction. My face was blank. The wings were bland. Not spicy at all.
âBurtâ, I said, âThis is not hitting the spot. They are not even in the same zip code as the spot.â
Burt was confused. âOkay letâs try the 3-alarm wingsâ, he suggested.
We ordered the 3-alarm wings.
They were less bland but still pretty bland.
We ordered the 4-alarm wings. Nothing. I was getting impatient now. The spice clock in my body was ticking.
We ordered the 5-alarm wings.
When the wings arrived, Burtâs eyes started to water. He was holding the menu between himself and the wings to shield his face from the fumes.
I took a bite. The vinegar fumes were blinding me but I still couldnât taste the spice. What. The. Fuck.
âThis is ITâ, I yelled, âIâm done with thisâ. I jumped out of the booth so hard the wings fell to the floor. âLetâs go, Burtâ, I demanded.
âHeâs holding a 5-alarmâ, whimpered a guy cowering underneath the table next to us.
I pointed a wing at him. âDonât do anything stupid and no one gets hurtâ, I said.
We slowly backed out of the bar and fled to the bus stop to wait for the next bus back to campus.
Chicken wings are Americaâs âguilty pleasureâ, âfinger foodâ, âwatch sports and drink copious amounts of alcohol while eating crapâ crap. But chicken wings are also something much better than all these things. Chicken wings are where American cuisine leaves its boring roots, spreads its wings and flirts with the gods of world cuisine watching over us as we try to live out our life on this doomed planet. Chicken wings can be cooked and spiced in a thousand different ways; fried, roasted, mild, hot, buffalo, garlic, parmesan ranch, honey barbecue, tandoori, Sichuan, teriyaki, I could go on forever. Chicken wings are adaptable enough to accommodate every single palate and lifestyle in the world except vegetarian, pescaterian and cannibal.
Every American has their favorite wing joint, a place they will swear by and scamper off to during the zombie apocalypse to spend the remaining few hours of their life in wingful bliss. As part of my ongoing quest to find such a place for myself I visited the Pizza time saloon, a bar near my house. Word on the street was, their wings were the absolute bomb. I hailed the bartender and requested the wings, with the caveat that they be the hottest he could possibly make them.
The bartender stared at my face and said, âAre you Indianâ?
âYesâ, I replied, âwhy?â
He leaned in conspiratorially and whispered into my ear, âWould you like to tryâŚThe Indian Special?â
âThe Indian Special?â, I said, confused but also mildly aroused.
He gave me the scoop. Apparently quite a few regular patrons of this bar were Indian, employed in the pharmaceutical company next door. One day, frustrated with the blandness of the 40 cent buffalo wings they were being fed during happy hour, they had conducted a peaceful civil disobedience movement in the kitchen until the chef concocted a wing recipe that was spicy and flavorful enough for their tastes.
âSo, how about it?â said the bartender.
âYes please, Iâll have a dozen Indian Specialsâ, I replied.
When the wings arrived they looked nothing like a typical buffalo wing. The disobedience had certainly paid off. The wings were covered in a chunky dark sauce replete with an ominous amount of red pepper flakes dotting every millimeter of the wing. The scent of garam masala and chilli powder wafted up into the atmosphere. If you closed your eyes you could still hear the buffalo sauce screaming silently in the background but that was all that remained of it. They were garnished with cilantro and it was clear that the blue cheese accompaniment had no idea what the hell was going on.
The flavor was terrific. The spice was just hot enough to make me tear up but not weep profusely like I had done back in college during a theatrical screening of Kabhi Haan Kabhi Naa when the girl I had a crush on presented a rose to someone else on Valentineâs day.
I had found my go-to zombie apocalypse wing place.
A few years later, I was birding with my friend Duck on the grounds of an abandoned psychiatric facility. I apologize for the hard segue but there is a context, wait for it. After a fair bit of peeking into partially broken windows of abandoned buildings hoping to see disenchanted spirits and staring into trees trying to spot yellow warblers and orioles, we realized that we were both ghoulishly hungry and thirsty. Quickly I google mapped the nearest bar. As it so happened, there was one right within these desolate grounds. We drove there and found ourselves standing outside the Shanahan bar and grill. It appeared that once upon a time this establishment used to be a single family home, now converted into a bar with a cozy interior and more importantly, a nice patio area in the back facing the woods. Google had advised me that this place was famous for its hot wings. Confident in our ability to tackle the hottest the Buffalo world had to offer, we ordered the âcomplete total insanityâ wings. The waitress looked us dead in the eyes and said, âAre. you. sure?â
Look, in my defense, Iâve experienced this question in bars and restaurants all across the US. As a person of Indian descent I am offended whenever someone questions my ability to consume the spiciest foods, meats and soups their establishment has to offer. And therefore, staring sternly back at her, I replied, âYes, maâam, I am very sure. Please. Bring them on.â
We sat in that scenic patio with a view of the decrepit asylum buildings, drinking our Sam Adams Boston Lager in the early spring sunshine, watching red-bellied woodpeckers tapping on the forest wall and waiting for our wings. When the wings arrived they looked innocuous, even benign. I would even go so far as to call them congenial. When I bent down for a light sniff I did not detect toxic fumes upon my face or nostrils. So Duck and I, we each picked up a wing and took a bite.
Oh, how pernicious, you wing. The sauce was not vinegar-based and thatâs why there was a lack of facial assault. But the spice was pure powdered habanero. The wing was fierce. I chewed on gamely and took another bite. Duck coughed gently and excused himself to go to the bathroom. In his absence I began to weep freely. I took another bite. At this point my goal in life was simply to finish this one goddamn wing without dying. What had hell wrought upon us? I finally finished it but my mouth was acres of wildfire, not to mention my fingers and everything they had touched on my face. I went to wash my hands and face in the bathroom. Duck was there, completely drenched, slapping water all over his entire body. Duck was crying. Duck and I, we lay on the floor for a while hugging each other and wishing for death that never came.
I boxed the rest of those wings and took them home. I had a goddamn biological weapon in my possession that I had paid good money for and I fully intended to use it.
Monday, when I got to work, I dispatched the following missive to the company email list:
Gentlemen,
In the fridge, there are 8 chicken wings. These are no ordinary wings. These are wings of death. As you know, I am Indian and we eat, drink and breathe spicy. When we get hurt, we stop the bleeding by sprinkling red pepper flakes on the wound.
But these wings defeated me. I was unable to make it past 1 and it was a near death experience.
Here are the challenges, should you choose to accept them:
Eat 4 of these wings and I will pay you $20.
Consume all 8 and I will pay your surviving next of kin $50.
Who among you is up for this?
Note: You will sign a waiver absolving me of all liability before you embark upon this feat. Also, please make sure you notify your next of kin.
Only serious challengers need apply.
A few minutes after lunch Brian and Tony approached me. Brian is a fresh faced sales guy and Tony was in tech support, a hefty former college football player. They had perused my email, had a quick conference and decided that they would take on my wing challenge as a team. I told them that I would pay them $20 each if they managed to stuff four wings each down their bellies. They agreed to these terms.
The moment the clock struck 5 the entire company began to trickle into the kitchen area. Word had spread all afternoon about Brian and Tony accepting my challenge. The contestants walked in and it was on.
I microwaved the wings for 30 seconds, just to loosen up the sauces and the hurt. They each picked up a wing.
Five years later, the one thing I remember vividly from this day is Brianâs face. Brian is a very attractive dude with a shapely round white face. As I watched his face get redder and redder and eyes start to bulge from their sockets, I remember wondering if his face was going to literally explode. Tony, on the other hand, is a big swarthy Italian guy so his agony was manifest more through choking sounds and tears. I have to give it up to both of them, they plodded through the wings gamely. I cannot begin to imagine what was happening to their body on the inside and on the outside. The moment they were done they ran to the fridge and emptied an entire carton of heavy cream between themselves.
The next day we received an update on what had transpired after they left work. Driving home, Brian had experienced severe acid reflux as never before and had to stop at a pharmacy to purchase antacids that cost more than 20 bucks, thus effectively putting him at a monetary loss. Furthermore, after he reached home he was severely chastised by his wife for his decision to even accept such a death defying challenge in the first place as a married man with familial responsibilities.
On his way home, Tony had to stop multiple times to vomit by the side of the road. He was reticent to describe what had happened after he reached home but I suspect itâs because the college football player within him was loathe to reveal such delicate details to a largely mirthful audience.
So seeing as we have reached the end of my autobiographical chicken wing ruminations, allow me to let you in on my personal recipe for hot wings. Roast the wings in an oven until theyâre crispy. The base for your sauce should be vinegar, Frankâs hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, chopped fresh garlic and most importantly, butter. Heat this stuff together then go wild improvising the spice aspect. A few suggestions: freshly chopped peppers (jalapenos / habaneros / Indian green chillies / literally any hot chilli pepper in the world), powdered heat (cayenne / chipotle / chilli powder / smoked or Hungarian hot paprika / garam masala). Mix it all together with the base sauce and toss the wings in it.
And welcome to wing heaven.













