The Cosplay Couple

Alex and Erin here, we are just your average couple desperatly trying to not grow up by making awesome cosplays from our childhood. 

[layzemichelle]

Queen Zelda - Hyrule Warriors.

Stylized Wig, Costume, makeup, accessories and props made and modeled by me.

Model: Layze Michelle (me) Photography: C. Souza Fotografia

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[layzemichelle]

New pic *-* 

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Day 4 sdcc. Avatar! Korra, Zaheer, Tonraq, Kai, and Jinora

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Day 3 at sdcc, Astrid! Drawing by Katie Cook

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Day 2 at sdcc, Carl and Ellie drawing by Katie Cook

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Day 1 at Sdcc. Completed Link and Zelda. Drawing by Katie Cook

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Completed Twilight Princess Zelda and Link

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Made myself a staff for Korra. Unfortunatly there is no time to make the wings before comic con but it still looks cool.

[kikicraft]

I was recently commissioned to make a Huntress mask. I really enjoyed the process and thought it would be nice to share my findings with the internet! Enjoy! 1. Create your pattern. Use paper to draft a pattern of your mask. I find that folding a large piece of paper and drawing on one side is the most effective. You can cut out your pattern and unfold to test the mask. Repeat this as many times as necessary to achieve your perfect mask. 

2. Transfer pattern to foam. You know that cheapy foam paper you can find at Walmart or a craft stores? Use an xacto knife to carefully cut your mask out of foam.  3. Cut out your Worbla. You can skip this step if you are fine with a less sturdy mask. Basically you want to place your foam on the Worbla and trace ¼ to ½ inch larger onto the Worbla. Then cut it out! (dont forget the eye holes!) *tip* if the worbla is too hard for you to cut— heat it up slightly before you cut it! 4. Fuse the Worbla and the Foam. Heat up the Worbla around the edges. then simply use your fingers to shape the Worbla around the foam. you can heat up the Worbla as you go. be careful not to heat up the foam too much because it will burn! 5. Details? Now is the time to add any battle damage (using a wood burner or heating up the Worbla and pressing random tools into it). or any details. Such as a trim boarder or rivets.  *tip* you can heat up and roll Worbla to make things like Screw heads. make sure to also heat up the Worbla section you’re applying the object to so it will stick! 6. Shape the mask to your face:  Heat up the Worbla side of your mask, and the Worbla trim-sides on the other side. heat up the foam side lightly— and then press the mask to your face or to a plaster mask or a model or something that can withstand minor heat. It will be slightly hot— you can use a paper towel or two in between the Worbla and your face if you’re chicken about it :) Hold the Worbla there until its cool. Looking into a mirror while shaping it might help you. 

7. Create a way to secure it: How will the mask attach to your face? Now is the time to make holes for ties or D-hooks to the sides for straps later on. You can heat up scraps of Worbla to attach things like D-hooks or metal loops. Remember the Worbla acts like glue but really only holds to itself. you need to heat up both pieces of Worbla to activate it!

8. Prepping for paint: once the mask is how you like it— it’s time to prep it for paint. Do you want a rough bumpy surface? then use spray primer on the mask and begin your paint job. If you want a smoother-finish— then you’ll have to use layers of Wood Glue or Gesso to prime the surface until it’s smooth. Make sure to wait until each layer is dry before applying the next layer. 

9. Paint: Use spray paint or acrylics or whatever at this point. Most types of paint will work. If your project is one solid color— consider spraying multiple light coats and sand between each coat. *tip* Once your paintjob is dry— use a large dry brush and a bit of black paint and lightly “dust” over your mask. You can even flick along the edges/rims of your mask to make it have more dimension.  *tip* A good way to match your mask to your costume AND get it done faster— is to simply cover it with the fabric you made your costume with ;) Don’t use hot glue for this as it will bubble up and not stick very well.  10. Finishing: Crystal Clear Enamel spray is a great way to seal and protect your paint job. Just spray it right over your mask. make sure your mask is dry before you spray or some colors may run. I recommend 2-4 coats.  Another good way to finish your mask is to glue some soft material such as felt to the inside of your mask. (unless you plan to adhere it with spirit gum! leave it as-is or use vinyl on the backside to allow the spirit gum to stick to your face better!) Add your straps and you’re done! HAPPY MASKING! Let me know if you have any questions through my facebook page!  Please like and share! For more: www.facebook.com/worldofkikicraft

[arkadykoshka]

A bunch of people asked me to make a tutorial about how I did my glowing lyrium potion, so I finally made one! It works for any kind of glowing potion you want to drink so you can use any liquid. It’s also really, really, really easy. 

Supplies - pick your Lyrium (I used Blue Gatorade for my first potion and am using blue vodka for this tutorial because I am an adult), waterproof LEDs (that waterproof part is important, I used plain white ones but any color will work depending on your potion, I recommend getting a bunch of these because sometimes you get a dud, and they glow for 8+ hours but they do fade over time), glass bottles with corks, non-toxic glue, leather or clothe cording, a knife or tiny scissors. 

Clean your bottles and your LEDs. 

Hollow out the inside of your cork with a knife or scissors. You want a little space for the LED to snugly sit in. 

Attach the LED to the cork with a touch of non-toxic glue. Turn on the LED at this point too. 

While the glue sets up, fill your glass bottle with your lyrium or potion.

Alternatively, if you don’t want to mess with hollowing the cork and gluing the LED into place, you can also just “frost” over the bottom of your glass and drop the LED straight in. The LED sinks and the “frost” disguises it. I used a touch of white acrylic paint to frost it. It took about 30 seconds. 

Back to the cork method! - Once the glue has dried and the cork is secure, pop it back into the bottle.

Wrap your leather cording around the neck of the bottle to disguise the LED hanging there. 

And done! Go drink your lyrium like the drug addicted Templar you are! 

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Most complete collection of the costume. I really need to rig the shoulders better :p but other than that it's pretty comfy.

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Working on the Zelda wig and the leaf diadem... a lot more work to do.

[knittingburg]

[tealass22-deactivated20201101]

Every DIY tutorial ever.

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

First cosplay completed for SDCC!!! T- 30 days!!!! Much improvement from 2013. All that's left to do is color my hair brown.

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

The belt is finally done. Made from an Eva foam core, coated in teraflex and gesso. Then sanded and painted with acrylic paint. The stones are just from a cheap Michaels bracelet. Now... on to the shoulders.

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Finished the dress finally for Twilight Princess Zelda! The runes were done with a cheap fabric pen that was way more trouble than it was worth. It had a very small life span and I ended up having to buy 4 pens just to finish it. Now on to the armor/ jewelry o.o

[aelynn]

I need to stop this last minute costume shiz.

Says every cosplayer… every con season.

[ae-thecosplaycouple]

Progress on the Twilight Princess dress. I patterned the dress myself, added the trim ribbon and applied the embroidery harp patches to the dress. The patches were super handy as I have not mastered embroidery yet. I was able to purchase them on etsy from https://www.etsy.com/shop/serephitic