Using a T-shirt to Make Patterns
Using a standard unisex T-shirt that is about one-two sized larger than your size can be used as a base for another way to drape darts or move the excess fabric into different styles. This is a method that can be done using a model form or on your own body!! (I do recommend if you are wearing the t-shirt to have the undergarment on that you will be wearing with the cosplay.) Helps to get a more accurate fit! First I will start by showing how to make standard double-ended darts using a T-shirt. Using this same technique you can make many types of darts.
Standard unisex shirt in a size one-two sizes larger, sewing pins/safety pins, marker/tailors chalk, large piece of paper, scissors, pencil, ruler
^ 1. You want to work both sides at the same time. taking in a little on each side as you go. Don’t make it too tight, the excess fabric around the waist will be used to make darts (or seams).
^ 2. Taking the excess fabric, pinch equally at the placement of your darts/seams.
^ 3. Front darts are meant to tighten the excess fabric, there are many ways to utilize them. They end about 1/4”- 1/2” down from the bust point (unless you want Madonna points). Darts leading down past the waist end at the hip, typically about 3”-4” past the waistline.
^ 4. Repeat process for back. Back darts work similar to front, top ends point to the largest part of the chest, and the bottom ends are about 3-4” from the waist
^ 5. Once all pins are in place, use tailors chalk or a marker to draw over the newly made sections, marking each side of the darts, and at each side of your new side seams. Make notes for all markers like waist line along the sides and at each side of your dart, bust point, ends of darts top and bottom.
^ 6. While wearing the t-shirt, draw your neckline and armholes. Be sure to mark for matching up front and back at shoulder seams and at the side seams.
^ 7. Now you are ready to transfer to paper! Carefully take the garment off, trying to keep all pins attached, it is okay if you lose some in the process. I like to go through and re mark on front and back with a sharpie the: bust point, dart points, waist at front and back sides as well as at each side of your dart, where the front and back pieces at the shoulder and under the arm. You only need half of the front and half of the back to complete the pattern.
Now you are ready to remove the pins, SEE second picture. Once pins have been removed, make a long line down the center front and center back. Label which side is front and which is back.
^ 8. Cut the shirt apart at the side seams following the lines you drew, and at the shoulders along the t-shirt’s seam line. Trace around the pieces, transfer all your marks and notes. After you have the outer edges, transfer the four dart points you marked: top, bottom, and at the waist on each side of the excess of the fabric. This will create your dart.
^ 9. Create your sewing guide lines, connecting the four points of the dart. This will make a diamond shape.
^ 10. Finishing touches!! Add seam allowance to all of your edges. For this example, the front is on a fold a center front, which doesn’t need any seam allowance. Back will have a zipper, which needs a larger amount of seam allowance. I highly suggest making a mock up with your new pattern pieces to test fit for any adjustments.
Whoo!! This turned out longer than I thought it would, hope it makes sense and helps out. Happy Patterning and Sewing!!!
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