ALBATROS D.Va BUILD LOG
Build by Brian Colton, Piccadilly South Australia
Kit by Model Expo, Miami
http://modelexpo-online.com/model-airways-albatros-d-va-red-baron-1-16-scale
In my opinion, the best looking fighter of WWI.Â
See this Wikipedia article for more information on this lovely aeroplane.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albatros_D.VÂ
I had recently built all four of the photo-etch stainless steel 1/32 models by imcth, Japan. Â The imcth models got me very interested in the âskeletonâ style of models, which show the structure in fine scale detail and have no covering.Â
 This is the A6M Zero.
 Internet browsing led me to Model Expo and their 1/16 wooden models of WWI fighters with cast metal parts for engine, weapons, landing gear, etc.Â
Having just built four skeleton models in stainless steel, I thought âhow hard could it be?â and ordered the Albatros D.Va and Fokker DR1 (strictly speaking, my wife, Maggie, bought them as presents for me!). How little I knew...
Having finished the build, Iâll add some advice on the off chance that a prospective modeller reads this.
Tools & Supplies
I recommend that you have all of these. You could get by with less, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Hobby knives - X-Acto or similar - and a good supply of blades as you should never use a blunt blade. I use a medical scalpel.Â
Razor saw - youâll need this to cut metal tubes and rods without deforming the ends.
Tweezers and pliers and cutters - canât have too many.
Pin vise and good selection of âmicroâ bits.
Mini diamond files - the metal parts need a lot of work.
Dremel tool or similar with a selection of accessories.
Finger nail buffers in various âgritsâ.
Abrasive papers in various âgritsâ.
Clamps - small through tiny - and electrical alligator clips.
Adhesive tape - single and double sided.
Cotton buds.
Dental micro brushes.
Head-mounted illuminated magnifier - some of the metal parts are extremely tiny.
Building board - mine is chipboard covered in cork tiles.
Silicone baking paper to cover plans on the building board.
Map pins and dress-making pins.
Bamboo skewers.
High quality paint brushes - cheap ones are a waste of money.
Metal primer and hobby paints. You donât need an airbrush.
Adhesives - i build with cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA or super glue) in extra thin and medium thick plus accelerant (kicker). If you use CA you will need acetone to un-stick parts and fingers. Blutack.Â
The instructions call for epoxy from time to time. It's not necessary.
Adhesive applicator - i use a Glue Looper. Google it.
Kicker applicator - I find that a hypodermic syringe works best.
Your boxes of âstuffâ - wire, plastic, etc, etc.
Small boxes to hold the metal parts after you take them out of their plastic bags.
Photos of details of âthe real thingâ from the internet for reference.
Impressions Of The Model & Kit
The finished model exceeded my expectations. It is both an accurate model of a beautiful and significant aeroplane and a beautiful object in its own right.
This kit is certainly not one for the beginner. That being said, Iâm no scale modelling expert and I found the build very interesting, often challenging, occasionally infuriating, but immensely enjoyable and rewarding. An experienced aeromodeller who has built a few wood models will be able to cope.Â
 This is the first kit in a series of these skeleton models from Model Expo, with technical drawings dated 1997. The drawings are excellent, but the instructions can be a little vague at times. The instruction manual is comprehensive, but not always completely clear. It is profusely illustrated with charming hand-drawn illustrations, but there are no photographs. Sometimes I resorted to logical deduction and inspired guesswork to get through some of the trickier sections. I have Model Expoâs latest Fokker DR1 kit and its instruction manual is much clearer.
The wood and metal are of excellent quality and supplied in generous quantities.
If you plan to stain the wood, do so before assembly. I used a cedar tint.
The metal castings need quite a lot of prep work and are quite soft. Test fit every one. It will need adjusting. Be careful as they bend and break easily.
For unfathomable reasons the kit has cast metal âfalse nuts and boltsâ instead of regular steel items. They are terrible! They bend and break and every nut has to be reamed to fit on the bolts. This is very time-consuming. The threads are imitations and the nuts simply press on to the bolts and have to be glued. I recommend taking some of these to your local hobby shop and getting some replacement nuts and bolts from their R/C section.
Proceed with caution. Read each section carefully and in its entirety before doing any building. Test fit everything before gluing. This is especially important with the castings.Â
Try to anticipate the consequences of your actions and so avoid mistakes and rework - although some will be inevitable.
If you break something or just lose it, Model Expo will replace it at no cost.
Use your imagination and make extra parts from scratch.
Take lots of photos as you go.
Have fun!
Chapter 1: Flying surfaces https://albatrosflyingsurfaces.tumblr.com/
Chapter 2: Fuselage framework https://albatrosfuselage.tumblr.com
Chapter 3: Engine https://albatrosengine.tumblr.com
Chapter 4: Fuselage Fit Out https://albatrosfuselagefitout.tumblr.com
Chapter 5: Tail & Undercarriage https://albatrostail.tumblr.com
Chapter 6: Engine Install & Guns https://albatrosguns.tumblr.com
Chapter 7: Final Assembly https://albatrosassembly.tumblr.com
Next the Fokker DR1 Triplane!
http://modelexpo-online.com/model-airways-dr-1-fokker-tri-plane-1-16-scale