Jul 7, 2025
Every landing you walk away from is a good one.
Radio controlled model spitfire, Grey Nurse
seen from Germany
seen from Singapore
seen from United States
seen from Germany
seen from United States
seen from United Kingdom
seen from Germany
seen from Germany
seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from China
seen from United States
seen from Poland
seen from United States
seen from T1
seen from Poland
seen from Malaysia
seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from China
Every landing you walk away from is a good one.
Radio controlled model spitfire, Grey Nurse
Airfix 1:48 BAE Hawk 100
Previously I have posted about not liking too many builds on the go at the same time as I have suffered with my mojo and ended up with projects I have started but don’t want to finish.
Well this is right out the window as I attempt to keep my mojo high by starting another build, my thinking is maybe I wont lose interest if I am switching between many builds, it might go pear shaped but it might be a personal revelation so with this in mind here is the sprue and box shots of the Airfix 1:48 BAE Hawk 100 I am about to begin.
The keen of eye may have noticed that there’s a couple parts off sprue already and that there’s also a little packet of resin goodies in the photo too! This is a kit I picked up second hand off a Britmodeller member who was going through a little stash rationalisation, a completely foreign concept to me obviously as I bought it!
The resin is the nEOmega Cockpit interior set for this kit. In the box are decals for a Canadian scheme and a couple of RAAF schemes including the black panthers special scheme. I will be building one of the RAAF schemes, just not sure which.
Fokker Dr.1 Build Log
Build by Brian Colton , Piccadilly, South Australia
Kit by Model Expo, Miami, USA
Chapter 1: Introduction
The Fokker Dr.1 is arguably the most famous fighter aircraft ever. It achieved iconic status as the aircraft of Manfred von Richtfofen, The Red Baron.
There is a huge amount of information on the Dr.1 on the web. Wikipedia is a good starting point for basic information https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fokker_Dr.I
This is my second Model Expo build, following the Albatros D.Va, which introduced me to the pleasures and challenges of this line of kits. They build into a “skeleton” model, replicating the structure of the actual aircraft with total accuracy.
My Albatros D.Va model
(see https://www.tumblr.com/blog/albatrosbuildlog)
Having finished the Albatros, I’ll add some advice on building thee kits on the off chance that a prospective modeller reads this.
Tools & Supplies
I recommend that you have all of these. You could get by with less, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
Hobby knives - X-Acto or similar - and a good supply of blades as you should never use a blunt blade. I use a medical scalpel.
Razor saw - you’ll need this to cut metal tubes and rods without deforming the ends.
Tweezers and pliers and cutters - can’t have too many.
Pin vise and good selection of “micro” bits.
Mini diamond files - the metal parts need a lot of work.
Dremel tool or similar with a selection of accessories.
Finger nail buffers in various “grits”.
Abrasive papers in various “grits”.
Clamps - small through tiny - and electrical alligator clips.
Adhesive tape - single and double sided.
Cotton buds.
Dental micro brushes are very handy if you can talk your dentist into giving you some.
Head-mounted illuminated magnifier - some of the metal parts are extremely tiny.
Building board - mine is chipboard covered in cork tiles, has to take pins _ plus cutting board.
Silicone baking paper to cover plans on the building board.
Map pins and dress-making pins.
Bamboo skewers.
High quality paint brushes - cheap ones are a waste of money.
Metal primer and hobby paints. You don’t need an airbrush.
Adhesives - I build with cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA or super glue) in extra thin and medium thick, plus accelerant (kicker). If you use CA you will need acetone to un-stick parts and fingers. The instructions call for epoxy from time to time. It’s not necessary. People build huge R/C jets with CA. It’s strong enough for a static model. Less messy, too.
Adhesive applicator - i use a Glue Looper. Google it.
Kicker applicator - I find that a hypodermic syringe works best.
Blutack.
Your boxes of “stuff” - wire, plastic, etc, etc.
Small boxes to hold the metal parts after you take them out of their plastic bags.
Photos of details of “the real thing” from the internet for reference.
The Kit
This kit is certainly not one for the beginner. That being said, I’m no scale modelling expert and I found the build very interesting, often challenging, occasionally infuriating, but immensely enjoyable and rewarding. An experienced aeromodeller who has built a few wood models will be able to cope.
The drawings are excellent, but the instructions can be a little vague at times. The instruction manual is comprehensive, but not always completely clear. It is profusely illustrated with photographs and diagrams, but some steps required logical deduction and inspired guesswork to get through some of the trickier sections.
The wood and metal are of excellent quality and supplied in generous quantities.
If you plan to stain the wood, do so before assembly. I used a cedar tint.
The metal castings need quite a lot of prep work and are quite soft. Test fit every one. It will need adjusting. Be careful as they bend and break easily. Holes will have to be drilled out.
There is no illustrated legend or key to identify the castings. This makes things more difficult than they need be and it would be good if this could be looked at by Model Expo.
There are some errors in the instructions.
Proceed with caution. Read each section carefully and in its entirety before doing any building. Test fit everything before gluing. This is especially important with the castings.
Try to anticipate the consequences of your actions and so avoid mistakes and rework - although some will be inevitable.
Check the kit contents carefully. If anything is missing or damaged - or if you break something or just lose it - Model Expo will replace it at no cost.
Use your imagination and make extra parts from scratch.
Take lots of photos as you go.
Have fun!
Chapter 2: Wings https://fokkerwings.tumblr.com
Chapter 3: Fuselage https://fokkerfuselage.tumblr.com
Chapter 4: Tail & Controls https://fokkertail.tumblr.com
Chapter 5: Engine https://fokkerengine.tumblr.com
Chapter 6: Final Assembly https://fokkerassembly.tumblr.com
ALBATROS D.Va BUILD LOG
Build by Brian Colton, Piccadilly South Australia
Kit by Model Expo, Miami
http://modelexpo-online.com/model-airways-albatros-d-va-red-baron-1-16-scale
In my opinion, the best looking fighter of WWI.
See this Wikipedia article for more information on this lovely aeroplane.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albatros_D.V
I had recently built all four of the photo-etch stainless steel 1/32 models by imcth, Japan. The imcth models got me very interested in the “skeleton” style of models, which show the structure in fine scale detail and have no covering.
This is the A6M Zero.
Internet browsing led me to Model Expo and their 1/16 wooden models of WWI fighters with cast metal parts for engine, weapons, landing gear, etc.
Having just built four skeleton models in stainless steel, I thought “how hard could it be?” and ordered the Albatros D.Va and Fokker DR1 (strictly speaking, my wife, Maggie, bought them as presents for me!). How little I knew...
Having finished the build, I’ll add some advice on the off chance that a prospective modeller reads this.
Tools & Supplies
I recommend that you have all of these. You could get by with less, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Hobby knives - X-Acto or similar - and a good supply of blades as you should never use a blunt blade. I use a medical scalpel.
Razor saw - you’ll need this to cut metal tubes and rods without deforming the ends.
Tweezers and pliers and cutters - can’t have too many.
Pin vise and good selection of “micro” bits.
Mini diamond files - the metal parts need a lot of work.
Dremel tool or similar with a selection of accessories.
Finger nail buffers in various “grits”.
Abrasive papers in various “grits”.
Clamps - small through tiny - and electrical alligator clips.
Adhesive tape - single and double sided.
Cotton buds.
Dental micro brushes.
Head-mounted illuminated magnifier - some of the metal parts are extremely tiny.
Building board - mine is chipboard covered in cork tiles.
Silicone baking paper to cover plans on the building board.
Map pins and dress-making pins.
Bamboo skewers.
High quality paint brushes - cheap ones are a waste of money.
Metal primer and hobby paints. You don’t need an airbrush.
Adhesives - i build with cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA or super glue) in extra thin and medium thick plus accelerant (kicker). If you use CA you will need acetone to un-stick parts and fingers. Blutack.
The instructions call for epoxy from time to time. It's not necessary.
Adhesive applicator - i use a Glue Looper. Google it.
Kicker applicator - I find that a hypodermic syringe works best.
Your boxes of “stuff” - wire, plastic, etc, etc.
Small boxes to hold the metal parts after you take them out of their plastic bags.
Photos of details of “the real thing” from the internet for reference.
Impressions Of The Model & Kit
The finished model exceeded my expectations. It is both an accurate model of a beautiful and significant aeroplane and a beautiful object in its own right.
This kit is certainly not one for the beginner. That being said, I’m no scale modelling expert and I found the build very interesting, often challenging, occasionally infuriating, but immensely enjoyable and rewarding. An experienced aeromodeller who has built a few wood models will be able to cope.
This is the first kit in a series of these skeleton models from Model Expo, with technical drawings dated 1997. The drawings are excellent, but the instructions can be a little vague at times. The instruction manual is comprehensive, but not always completely clear. It is profusely illustrated with charming hand-drawn illustrations, but there are no photographs. Sometimes I resorted to logical deduction and inspired guesswork to get through some of the trickier sections. I have Model Expo’s latest Fokker DR1 kit and its instruction manual is much clearer.
The wood and metal are of excellent quality and supplied in generous quantities.
If you plan to stain the wood, do so before assembly. I used a cedar tint.
The metal castings need quite a lot of prep work and are quite soft. Test fit every one. It will need adjusting. Be careful as they bend and break easily.
For unfathomable reasons the kit has cast metal “false nuts and bolts” instead of regular steel items. They are terrible! They bend and break and every nut has to be reamed to fit on the bolts. This is very time-consuming. The threads are imitations and the nuts simply press on to the bolts and have to be glued. I recommend taking some of these to your local hobby shop and getting some replacement nuts and bolts from their R/C section.
Proceed with caution. Read each section carefully and in its entirety before doing any building. Test fit everything before gluing. This is especially important with the castings.
Try to anticipate the consequences of your actions and so avoid mistakes and rework - although some will be inevitable.
If you break something or just lose it, Model Expo will replace it at no cost.
Use your imagination and make extra parts from scratch.
Take lots of photos as you go.
Have fun!
Chapter 1: Flying surfaces https://albatrosflyingsurfaces.tumblr.com/
Chapter 2: Fuselage framework https://albatrosfuselage.tumblr.com
Chapter 3: Engine https://albatrosengine.tumblr.com
Chapter 4: Fuselage Fit Out https://albatrosfuselagefitout.tumblr.com
Chapter 5: Tail & Undercarriage https://albatrostail.tumblr.com
Chapter 6: Engine Install & Guns https://albatrosguns.tumblr.com
Chapter 7: Final Assembly https://albatrosassembly.tumblr.com
Next the Fokker DR1 Triplane!
http://modelexpo-online.com/model-airways-dr-1-fokker-tri-plane-1-16-scale
Boys and their toys (on my travels)
D-21, The Speedster Drone!
Whilst the fuselage is all clamped up I thought I would tackle the Lockheed D-21 drone included in the kit.
For those that don't know the D-21 was an unmanned drone that was originally designed to be launched from the back of the M-21, a variant of the original Lockheed A-12 photo reconnaissance aircraft from which the SR-71 was derived. The D-21 was developed as a response to policies bought in by Eisenhower after the downing of Gary Powers. The original D-21/M-21 combination was designed so as the drone would be launched at Mach 3, complete a pre-programmed overflight of Russia or China then eject its recon package for retrieval before the drone was to self destruct, however this combination was short lived after an accident during launch of a drone lead to the loss of a crew member.
After this the drone program was modified to the D-21B which was to be launched from under the wing of a B-52. It is this D-21B that is actually included in the kit and whilst its inclusion with an SR-71 is slightly erroneous this they are know to be displayed together in museums and the two aircraft are linked.
The model looks fairly simple and is victim to some more of old Revell's superb sprue gates as the photos show. Still it will make an interesting addition to the shelf and will look nice along side the completed SR-71, there is also the inclusion of the drones trolley to display it upon which is a nice touch.
MIG-27 Complete!
Well she's done, I know its not a great kit of the subject but I have enjoyed the build a lot. It went together without me wishing I hadn' bothered starting it so whilst it may not be the most accurate kit around, with the exception of the intakes it was certainly hassle free, which is more than can be said for many kits out there!
Thanks to those that followed along with the build and I hope you like the end result!
Weapons and Decals
Well it's been a while since my last update but the good news is I haven't been slacking. She's nearly ready for her final reveal but in the mean time here's a couple more pics, this time of some weapons. I decided to use the kit UB-32 launchers (think thats what they're meant to be anyway!) so to try and make them a little more presentable I drilled out the back end of the launcher and used a couple of spare decals from my UB-16s, I have also used the few decals the kit came with, we're on the home straight!