Capraro: Fashion's Prince Albert
CONVERSATIONS - MARIAN CHRISTY
October 7, 1984 - Saint Louis Post - Dispatch
'Doing Everything Well Is The Best Revenge'
DESIGNER #ALBERTCAPRARO, 40, a 1964 graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York, is still in former First Lady Betty Ford's life. She buys seasonally from her protege, the man she "discovered" and rescued from anonymity in 1976, the year she named him "Bicentennial Designer of the Year."
New York-born Capraro, now known as fashion's Prince Albert, worked seven years in the shadow of Oscar de la Renta as an apprentice. He was in business only six months when Betty Ford, then wife of the 38th president of the United States, began ordering her wardrobe from him. This connection made him rich and famous.
This year, Capraro, who looks like a sheik and lives in New York's ritzy Beekman Place in a duplex decorated in Mideastern style, ran a series of ads in Vogue and Harper's Bazaar featuring Cristina DeLorean with the headline: "Dressing Well Is The Best Revenge." Capraro dresses a bevy of famous friends: Jane Fonda, Diana Ross, Polly Bergen, Phyllis George Brown, and Mary Ann Mobley. His couture clothes cost thousands, but he's now designing a new budget line of sportswear for Gordon of Philadelphia.
"Growth happens with change. But you need a signature. That's something I've never changed. I believe in feminine, romantic clothes. I've never given that up. It's easier for me now than in the early feminist days. Then I did strapless organdy gowns and I was accused of pushing debutantes and of over-emphasizing the female figure. I was also accused of being decadent.
"I didn't believe it. I thought: 'Maybe I'm showing the look on the wrong models.' I also thought: 'Maybe I'm ahead of the times. So I redid the look over the years. And I showed it on models that looked demure rather than sexy. Success is failure turned around. What you learn from a flop is how to do it right next time around.
"Part of the acceptance of feminine clothes is that women have proven they can major career successes. They are less obvious about their hunger for equality. They are feminine feminists who wear soft clothes without being considered soft as persons or soft on the job.
"When Betty Ford invited me to the White House, it was a lucky break. But I quickly found out it was also a detriment. People didn't take me seriously. They thought the recognition was a fluke. I had been in my own business only six months. I found I had to prove that I wasn't just an overnight discovery of Mrs. Ford. I had to prove that I had the back-up of talent.
"It took me a long time to establish that I had merit as a designer. My collections are now in 7,000 stores, a 200 percent increase over the number of stores that carried my line when I dressed Betty Ford. And I can tell you, now, that Mrs. Ford is still one of my best customers.
"I'm one of those people who likes recognition, admiration, acknowledgment. That's my definition of success. Growing up, I didn't hear enough: 'You're wonderful.' My father owned a pet shop. He also told me, to be more, I'd have to do more. He instilled in me the idea that is to be a success I'd have to do things that elicited reaction. Being a designer has fulfilled that fantasy. Fashion is a fairytale on a grand scale.
"I believe doing everything well is the best revenge of life itself. To interesting is to be marvelous. It boosts one's confidence. There was a definite psychology to putting my friend, Cristina DeLorean, in the ads that said: 'Dressing well is the best revenge.' It was a visual pronouncement that even though things weren't good in her life, she remained glamorous. It's the sort of 'best foot forward' psychology that all of us should adopt when we're stressed. How else does one survive?
"For seven years I worked in the back room at the Oscar de la Renta showroom. There was a lot of me in the collection. But that's what apprenticeship is all about. Then I started losing sleep over Oscar's collection, over what was going out on his label, under his name. I thought: 'If I'm going to lose sleep, I'm going to worry about what's being introduced under my own name.' The printed acknowledgment is something I wanted badly. I wanted my name on a label.
"But I was scared. I knew that to launch my own business was a risk. I didn't have a name. I wanted to establish a name. I got a backer and I went into business. And Betty Ford acknowledged me. I suppose you cast your bread on the waters. You take your chances and hope you will be well received. I got lucky. There have also been times my collection was not well received. I told myself that I wouldn't please everyone all the time, which is just an excuse to lick wounds. I learned to find out the why of the criticism, if there was a way to pick up and work around it. It was from these setbacks that I forged my career.
"Fashion has to be related to what women do. Women have proven once and for all that they are not frivolous creatures. I don't create frivolous clothes. Frivolity was part of the late '60s, the early '70s. Now it's nonexistent.
"There are no classic standards in fashion anymore. There is no one hemline. No one silhouette. No one important color. What fashion is about now is point of view. And quality. People want clothes that have a look and that last. Clothes are just a back drop to life and living. Women have gone beyond fashion for fashion's sake. Women are committed to ideologies that give priority to career and a good personal life, not necessarily in that order. I'm trying, as a designer, to keep pace with all that."