day 2: calais, brugge and too much food
Firstly, something i forgot to mention in yesterday's post about the flight. One of the stewards on the SYD-KUL flight had the name Yasser Arafat. I kid you not, that was exactly what his name tag said.
Today started very early. Dad and I both woke up at 5am, finding ourselves with the lights still on, above the covers, me with a magazine on my face. I think that may mean jetlag, or just the 34hrs without sleep finally got to us. Especially since the last thing I remember was contemplating watching something on tv at about 7.30 last night, sitting down on the bed and thinking i might just rest my eyes for a few minutes...well, a few minutes later, I opened my eyes and it was 5am.
So, after a quite pleasant breakfast in Reims at the hotel, we loaded up the car and planned to take a slower route using the motorways as less as possible, for two reasons.
We're here to see the towns, not the freeways
Tolls are very expensive here. The A26 motorway between Reims and Calais has a 21.30EUR + 16% tax toll. I don't think I'd ever complain about the Cross City Tunnel tolls ever again...
We decided the way to go was to drive to Calais, and then take the coastal road to Brugge. This turned out to be a fantastic decision. The road to Calais was fairly non-descript. In fact, the highway seemed to be exactly like the Hume Hwy, but in a mirror. I did notice though, that the petrol stations near highways are more expensive than in towns, and unlike Australia, the price of Diesel does fluctuate, a lot. It varies between 1.29EUR and 1.68EUR per litre. Even so, it's still cheaper than petrol. If I listen to each car passing on the street, it's understandable why this is the case, seeing as there seem to be more diesels than petrols here.
When we got to Calais, Dad and I decided we would sit by the bay and watch the ferries coming and going, and see if we could see England. The answer is yes, yes you can see England, but we didn't really wanna stay out too long as it was blowing a gale - and it was FREEZING cold. To put it simply, I'm very glad I brought my heavy windcheater.
After standing out in the almost 0-degree winds for about 10mins, Dad and I decided to go and find a cafe to get some coffee. We initally rocked up to a place with a boulangerie, but it was closed for some reason. When we walked around the back, it had very clearly been on fire recently, so I suppose that ruled that one out. Looking around, there didn't seem to be much open, but given the fact that I could have sat down in the middle of the road and not get run over for quite some time, I suppose it was justified.
We found a place advertising itself as "Hotel and Restaurante de La Plage, self-rated as 2 stars, which didn't fill me with confidence at first, but seeing as it was the only place open, we didn't have much of a choice. Now, I don't know about the hotel, but the restaurant was fantastic. What started as an actually acceptable cappuccino and hot chocolate ended up as an absolutely delicious lunch and very reasonable prices.
I had a grilled sea-bass, which tasted as if it were caught when I ordered it, and Dad had a pot of mussels in Rocheforte sauce. French food is amazing. There's no denying that. And all for 13EUR each. In Sydney, that price wouldn't even get you fish and chips at a pub...
After lunch, we got on the road again, and headed for Dunkirk. We stopped at the beach where the English invaded in WW2 looking for Germans. It was easy to find the spot, since the street was named "Rue de 8 Mai 1945" (I wonder when the invasion happened...)
Sticking to the local roads, we crossed the border into Belgium. I was surprised to not see any signs to point this out. There's even a sign on River Rd in Wollstonecraft to say you're entering North Sydney Council, but no sign here to say you're entering Belgium. Weird...
Driving through the little towns was nice. We got to see the mix of Dutch and French architecture styles on all the houses, and also what the modern designs look like. It was a little weird driving around with the Trams in these towns, especially since it meant doing Hook Turns. Now, I've driven in the Melbourne CBD and I'm quite confident that I can do a hook turn to the right from the left, but turning left from the right lane felt like starting from square one again. I was totally clueless, and tried to avoid it at all costs.
Eventually we arrived at the hotel. Novotel Brugge Centrum. Nicer than the Reims hotel, and roughly the same price (winning!). I like the fact that I know what to expect from a Novotel so I know I'll have certain luxuries available to me. From Novotel, we went for a walk around town. Up to the market square and through the little back streets. Like all towns with canals through them, there is a sulphuric smell in the air. Luckily, the smell of good food is more powerful.
What kind of disappointed me was the fact that most of the restaurants in the square were so focused on pleasing the tourists that they were just serving food from those countries rather than their own. Even the restaurant we went to had Kangaroo on the menu! I certainly did not fly halfway around the world to eat something I could get at home easily.
What I did end up having is Rabbit in Flemish Stew (ie, guiness, onion and bacon), which was delicious. First time I've ever had rabbit, and if i had to describe it in one word: turkey. That was the main thing that popped into mind.
And so, at 10pm where the sun is just falling below the horizon, I write this now from the hotel room, with the heat blasting, and completely exhausted, ready for bed.