Pack your suitcases for a year working abroad
Something I wrote for The Independent about my year abroad http://www.independent.co.uk/student/study-abroad/pack-your-suitcase-for-a-year-working-abroad-8666605.html
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Pack your suitcases for a year working abroad
Something I wrote for The Independent about my year abroad http://www.independent.co.uk/student/study-abroad/pack-your-suitcase-for-a-year-working-abroad-8666605.html
Paddy's Day French Style
I celebrated St Patrick's day with my Irish friends in a "Irish" bar in Paris. We had a great night and danced along with some French people to the traditional Irish song Auld Lang Syne and pretended not to to notice that its actually Scottish.
Back to Blogging
Okay, so I know I have neglected my blog for a while! Technically this is a good thing though, as it means I'm too busy having fun :P But I'm going to make up for it by posting a few new posts this week. In the meantime, here is an article I wrote giving some practical advice about my six months in Antibes for thirdyearabroad.com http://www.thirdyearabroad.com/france/antibes.html
Fashion Week
The other weekend we decided to make the most of living in Paris during Fashion Week. So we headed down to the Louvre, with minimal expectations. After spotting people in shiny jackets and crazy hair milling about, we figured we must be on the right track. It wasn't long though before we realised our jeans and make-up free faces were just not going to cut it, so we made the best of a bad situation, by messing up Faye’s hair a bit, putting my hood up, and perfecting our disinterested-in- life look (not at an easy feat!)
We followed the trail of fashionable people to the exhibition, then tried to work out how we would get past the bouncer on the door checking people’s passes and turning away those without. After sitting outside for a while, eating baguettes and generally looking suspicious, we decided that as we were running short on brilliant ideas, the best way forward would be just to pretend we were supposed to be there and march in. Somehow this very bad plan actually worked, and we found ourselves inside.
Pretty shocked, we glanced around, clocked some more security, and promptly chickened out from going much further, but not before we had picked up a programme of the entire week’s events complete with names and addresses of all the shows. Armed with this goldmine of information, we trotted off to the Vivienne Westwood show, where again we managed to get inside the building simply by pretending we were supposed to be there. We had a great time looking at everyone’s crazy and expensive outfits and feeling thoroughly out of place.
>We then went inside the venue of a fashion show that had just finished, saw some people giving interviews and even had a quick go on the catwalk!
After enjoying taking in the surroundings, all the crazy hats, heels, and try-hards, we decided to leave. By complete coincidence we left the building at the same time as a famous person, and opened the doors to hoards of paparazzi snapping away while the celebrity posed for the cameras! Me and Faye stood behind in complete shock, and after some later googling, discovered she was probably a Hollywood actress called Jessica Chastain. Pretty pleased with our efforts at gatecrashing Fashion week we returned home, a job well done :)
Paris: City of Love
After a month of living in Paris, it’s about time I discussed whether or not it lives up to its romantic reputation. I think Valentine’s day (in my second week here) is as good a point as any to evaluate the situation. Sadly, I can’t say it got off to the most promising of starts. After returning home from a day at the office, traipsing past the usual array of tramps and prostitutes, I was greeted in our courtyard by my first sighting of a rat here. This, coupled with a squished rose outside our front door, didn’t exactly make for the stuff of fairytales. However, not to be put off, we decided as a flat of six single people living in Paris we would be damned if we let the day pass by doing nothing more than watching French reruns of MADE.* So we all dressed up, cooked a meal together, and with the help of some amazing food, wine, and an excess supply of IKEA candles (debatably more fire hazard than romantic lighting) we had a great night. Better than any moonlit proposal at the Eiffel Tower, hands down.
Since then, I feel that I’ve discovered more things about Paris every day. Living in a big city for the first time has been a bit of a culture shock. I was genuinely astonished by the sheer amount of homeless people here, and the way that everyone seems to walk around all the time as if they are on some serious covert mission. Every week on the metro I see buskers playing music, singers serenading passengers, drunks falling over, fire alarms going off, homeless people doing speeches, and no-one so much as blinks an eyelid. Everyone is in such a rush all the time, which is a shame because I am fast learning just what a beautiful city Paris is. On every corner there is culture, cool bars, and the most amazing food you can possibly imagine. In this past week I’ve eaten Mexican, Italian, Thai, French, and Lebanese food. La vie est belle! *that was the week before, in my defence, I was ill
Jusqu'ici... tout vas bien
And so my year abroad continues! Ten days ago, I moved to Paris, arranging to meet my friend Faye at Gare du Nord. Given the size of the station, I might as well have just told her to meet me in Paris. Armed with a phone that didnt work (except to receive texts) I waited at the Eurostar terminal at the same time that Faye waited at a random train platform three floors down. After a long search, a bit of a wild goose chase, plenty of (helpful?) French men, and a lot of luck we somehow managed to find each another. We then went to Faye’s flat where I promptly got ill for about a week putting a stop to much sight-seeing or flat hunting. This week I started work though, and already it is easy to spot clear differences between Paris and the South. For starters, there is none of this bisou-ing business in Paris. People in the office are far too busy and reluctant to even speak to each other, let alone endure actual physical contact early in the morning. Paris is also a lot more diverse and multicultural than Antibes. For example, the coffee machine downstairs actually serves tea, and coffee WITH milk!
Mealtimes here are sadly not the grand social affair that they were in Amadeus, but eating is still taken very seriously. I get 8 euros lunch vouchers a day to spend on food, which is enough to cover a sizeable lunch at any restaurant on the street plus breakfast too sometimes. In practise, this means I have a choice of Mexican and Lebanese takeaway, ‘le kebab’ (as the French fondly refer to it,) a sprinkling of boulangeries, a few french restaurants and a McDo for good measure. At the same time as working, I have also been trying to find a flat, and have been overcome with offers from people who I reckon would get on well with my ex-landlady. First, there is Antoine/Gaillot (he varies his name) who is offering me an apartment without a viewing, contract or meeting with him, as long as I just transfer lots of money direct to him first. I know Antoine's life story and he now wants to skype me. Next there is Damien who is also offering me his flat without a viewing if I just transfer him 1400 euros first. His offer must be legit though because beneath his Western Union Transfer Details he has written:
Test Question;Who made you Answer: God And so the saga continues!
Countdown to the unknown
5 days until Year Abroad: Part 2 commences. I'm starting to feel like I should make some sort of effort to prepare, and while beginning packing would be asking way too much, I have scanned some flat sharing websites in search of accommodation. It hasn't taken me much browsing to realise just exactly why I'd been putting it off all this time. Despite my determination to put my previous experience of a crazy-stalker live-in landlady down to a one-off unlucky mistake, the filtering through many dubious adverts is enough to make me wary. Call me a cynic, but I'm not sure the 46 year old male offering his flat exclusively to 'young females' for a bargain monthly rent equal to the average weekly rent elsewhere is 100% genuine. Nor the girls who deem pictures of themselves pouting apparently more important than photographs of the actual flat or any further information other than 'single room.' At least when I looked for accommodation seven months ago, I had few expectations and could be amused by details on the apartment posts such as the couple who wrote: 'we will accept you even if you are gay or vegetarian' This time round though, I am just eager to find somewhere to live. I'm looking forward to catching up with one some friends already living in Paris, aiming to speak a bit more French, and have a good time without encountering any major mishaps. I'll have to keep you updated on that one!
Prêt pour la prochaine aventure...
(Links to past posts are in square brackets, just hover over them) Two weeks ago I finished my first internship and flew back from sunny Antibes to my (slightly less sunny) home in England. Six months earlier I had left, anxious and unorganised, with the majority of my [packing done in a mad panic] the night before. So did the experience live up to expectations? Well, I certainly could never have predicted any of the things that would happen, but I'm not quite sure all my highlights would qualify for 'best year of my life' status either, which the languages department tried to persuade us of before we left. Its funny, but I can't seem to remember them mentioning any warnings or advice on being [stalked by crazy old women], having [300 euros stolen], dealing with an [emergency plane landing in Italy] (complete with 10 hours on a easyjet plane), being struck (okay, almost) by [lightning], and being hit on by a French man carrying a mattress in the street (yes, really) But amongst all these adventures, I was lucky enough to meet a lot of friendly people along the way and try so many new things that I've never done before. I ate [snails] and [frogs legs], I went [scuba diving] and [canoed around some islands] off Cannes. I visited [Monaco] and [Italy], [went to an absinthe bar] and saw more [ridiculous levels of wealth] than I could imagine. I would also like to think my French has improved a little bit (I know my English has!) and I can at the very least make a [statement to the police] in French, tell men on the beach that I don't want to buy their fake watches or go on a date with them, and cross a road without being run over by a crazy motorist intent on killing me. If these aren't life skills, they I don't know what are. I have also learnt that contrary to the 'rude' stereotype the French people are some of the friendliest and helpful around, as long you learn that they will not be rushed for anything. This was exemplified at a farewell meal in my last week where we were served delicious food, but the meal took an entire four hours with us waiting for around an hour for each course. Wine was free flowing though, to keep the customers happy, and of course the whole meal was then rounded off in typical French style with the waiter bringing free shots to the table and downing them with us for 'digestive purposes.' So I certainly have some stories to tell from my time in Antibes, and I'm looking forward to adding to them in February when I start the second half of my year: in Paris! Thanks everyone for keeping up with my blog, its been fun sharing with you all. Oh, and happy new year! xxx
Sunshine and Christmas?!
December in the Cote d'Azur is surprisingly Christmassy despite the still beautiful constant sunshine and ridiculously blue skies.
There are fairy lights everywhere, (some of my favorite are on the palm trees although they do seem a bit incongruous)
and in Nice there are Christmas markets, a big wheel and an ice rink.
The other week we decided to try the rink out for ourselves. We had an amusing time skating and watching children tumble like dominoes, but I was slightly wary of the makeshift rink itself. In true French health and safety style, after one day of being erected, the rink was falling apart, and this was rectified by a man trying to fix it whilst we were still skating. This mostly involved him using a shovel to bash things (bearing in mind the rink is in a pretty small enclosed space) and pouring water on the ice in the hope that it would freeze over whilst we attempted to dodge him. Needless to say, there were more children then necessary tumbling over after that! Nice isnt the only town bringing a bit of Christmas to the Cote d'Azur and Antibes certainly doesnt let a little thing like sunshine stop us having a white christmas. (Well a fake white Christmas in any case!) Here is the tree in the main square where I live:
Storm
When I left my apartment at 8.20 this morning I was greeted by unexpected sight of my building cornered off by police and the fire brigade. Never one to jump to hysterical conclusions, my immediate thought was: murder. Someone has definitely been murdered. On scanning the scene, my second thought was more of a sad realisation: they had closed the bakery off too...which would mean no pain au raisin for me today :( It was at this point I noticed a crane picking up bits of the roof and chimney, with a fireman stood on top of our building possibly guiding it, and a small pile of rubble on the pavement. Putting thoughts of my belly and somebody's potential demise to one side, I cottoned on to what was actually happening. Half an hour earlier I'd had a conversation with my flatmate where I'd asked him if there had been the loudest crash of thunder I'd ever heard this morning, or if I had dreamt this? I wasn’t quite sure. He told me that I was right, and the fact that I had at least been semi conscious enough to register this, is an indicator of how loud the storm must have been. To say I am a heavy sleeper is an understatement. I once managed to sleep through a fire alarm and don't think I have ever woken up in a thunderstorm before. My flatmate then told me that he thought something might be broken from the storm, and our internet was down as a result. Only when I got outside did I realise that the 'thing' that 'might' be broken was part of the roof (luckily not on our side of the flat!) I am pleased to say that this is all that appeared to have happened and despite the police cars and fire engine no one seemed to be on fire or murdered. So I can sleep safe in my bed tonight. Assuming of course, that the roof doesn’t fall in first! ...Edit: Turns out all the commotion was because our building/one of the chimneys was struck by lightning!
Soirée de Beaujolais nouveau
Last week I went to a wine festival which takes place across France annually to celebrate the Beaujolais nouveau wine coming to market. Most French people don't actually seem to like it but go along anyway for the social occasion.
My evening was fun and filled every stereotype of France that you could possibly think of (wine, cheese, frogs legs, waiters in berets...) Our first stop was a wine bar, which I suppose is the classy and chic French version of our pubs. It was filled with workers drinking and eating platters of various cheeses and charcuterie (cold meat) and was too full at 8pm to even find a space. So we headed to the old town in Nice where we found a restaurant with a stall outside giving away free tasters of the food and wine. We took a table outside (what can I say, winter in the Cote d'azur...) ordered some wine and food, and I even tried frogs legs for the first time! They were alright, but not as tasty as snails...
Bonfire Night
Last week was Bonfire Night and not wanting to let a little thing like being in France stop me from celebrating the occasion we had a party at my apartment. It may not have been the most conventional of bonfire parties due to the lack of fire and fireworks but we still had some of the important things sorted. When the 100 sparklers I ordered didn’t turn up I managed to avert an emergency and locate some in the cake decorating section of a supermarket. We cooked standard bonfire food (a lot of the people at the party had never tried jacket potatoes before) and people even brought toffee apples and a guy that we burnt on the balcony.
By the end of the night I considered myself an expert on the Gundpowder Plot after repeatedly having to explain why exactly we commemorate somebody not blowing up the houses of parliament 600 years ago. Sounds pretty silly when you say it out loud.
Discothèques of Paris
Last week was bank holiday. I say week because most people choose to stretch out their day off into a mini break at the very least. And no wonder when each employee tots up 8 weeks paid holiday a year. After receiving 72 ‘out of office/on vacation’ replies to an email sent on Monday, I decided to take the ‘if you can’t beat ‘em join ‘em’ approach and booked a last minute trip to Paris with 2 friends from uni. The accommodation I had chosen was the aptly named ‘Cheap Beds Hotel’ which didn’t quite elicit all the romantic notions of Paris you may hope for. Still, this didn’t dampen my excitement and I boarded the TGV (French for pretend high speed train) looking forward to my stay in the capital city.
It was Halloween night when I set off and as I had no desire to create my own horror story I decided not to dwell on the online reviews of our “hotel” which I think can best be described as ‘mixed.’ Instead I turned my attention to the passenger adjacent to me-Of course, this being France, it is only fair that a dog of that size gets a double seat to themself on a train. Six hours later, I met up with my friends and after a couple of travel hiccups we made it to the ‘hotel’ which thankfully was acceptable, give or take the mouldy bathroom ceiling. .............
Our first day began with breakfast where we met a very chatty but lovely old Parisian lady who after first checking that we didn’t have any ‘fiancées’ recommended we go out and have fun at the ‘discotheques of Paris’. Acting on her advice we decided that despite the luxury accommodation we would spend as much time as possible in the city itself. So we headed off to Montmartre where we braved a sudden and mysterious 5 minute storm complete with thunder, rain and hailstone leading to hundreds of people running to take shelter inside the Sacre Coeur.After drying off and dodging the many street artists trying to paint our picture we headed to a café for some vin chaud. Next stop was Moulin Rouge which is pretty much just a red windmill in a really seedy area but we stopped for the obligatory tourist photo.After that there was a brief attempt at being educational by looking for the Musée d’Orsay which ended around the time we accidentally got stuck in the middle of a ‘kill capitalism’ protest. Although the excessive and unnecessary amount of armed riot police managed to direct us to the museum, we decided to give up when faced with a queue full of more people than the anarchist protestors around the corner.
On Friday, the rain drove us to the Louvre where we were amazed to learn the pyramid outside is a massive entrance complete with underground shopping centre, museum and metro station. The museum is HUGE and has floors and floors of exhibits, but the most popular still seems to be the Mona Lisa. People were crowding around it and taking pictures like the paparazzi.
Not wanting to diss Leonardo or anything, but it’s really nothing special. We then decided to climb, (well okay, take the lift) to the top of the Eiffel tower at night where the view was absolutely amazing.There was a champagne bar which was charging less than a standard drink on a night out in Cannes but given the freezing temperatures we opted for chocolat chaud.On our final day we went to the Palace of Versailles which is magnificent and like many of the attractions in Paris has free entry for young people. The gardens were beautiful too and we stayed until sunset. We rounded off the day with a meal near the Eiffel Tower and headed back to our beloved Cheap Beds which we will dearly miss.
Cabin Fever
I think it's safe to say my flight back to Nice last weekend was my most memorable to date. The highlights of an emergency landing in Italy and a full ten hours without disembarking meant it even outshone the time Ryanair decided to account for a missing passenger by doing a full register of every single person on my plane. Ironically, I had only narrowly made the flight in the first place because despite arriving in time, a dubious new 'fast track' system at Liverpool was doing exactly the opposite of what it professed and creating problems. Watching hoards of people running to catch their flights would have been entertaining- if I hadn't been one of them. When I got to the gate after it had technically closed (but with over 20 people behind me) I thanked myself lucky I had made it. First mistake of the day. The journey seemed fine until we approached Nice where the first clue that something was amiss came from the pilot 'We're just hovering at the moment due to bad weather, and the reason you can see an aeroplane a few thousand feet below us is because we're sharing the same airspace.' Mildly worrying, but I was sure the pilot knew what he was doing. The next update, however, was a bit more exciting, since we didn't have enough fuel to 'hover' forever, or the capability of landing in an airport surrounded by a storm, we were off to do an emergency landing in Genoa, Italy. At this point, most of the passengers were viewing this as a bit of an adventure, especially when the emergency exits all suddenly lit up and the people next to me (Terry and Terry) informed me that this was not normal procedure. On landing in Italy, the captain emerged to tell us that Nice airport was shut, other flights had diverted to Marseille and Turin, and to 'chill out and relax' for the time being whilst he got news. The babies and small children on the flight did not seem to want to 'chill out or relax' however. Babysitting tactics were quickly improvised involving the cockpit, relay lengths of the aisle and pens and paper for the more well behaved. The 'short' stop in Genoa progressively lengthened, and one by one our available options diminished. Flying was out of the question because as soon as the storm subsided around Nice, its next destination of choice was of course, Italy. Plan B of a coach trip was quickly dropped when we were told that the whole of Genoa could only muster one coach between them. The idea of a hotel was thrown around and we were told a 'team in London' were working on it, but this never materialised. To boost our morale, we had announcements at irregular intervals along the lines of 'the reason I haven't given you any news is, there is no news.' We were all pretty understanding, considering, and each of the pilot's speeches ended with an applause that gradually began to wane along with our patience several hours in. Easyjet then showed an excessive display of generosity for a budget airline by breaking into their supplies and giving us a soft drink and a packet of crisps each. Sadly this was the entire extent of their provisions and all we were given in what turned out to be, a total of ten hours on the plane. In the end they decided to return us by navigating us around the storm. At this point safety procedures were repeated for a second time, and with good reason. The extreme turbulence on the return flight can only be described as a rollercoaster. The people around me clearly agreed if their swearing and seat clutching was anything to go by. Still, despite some major doubts on the way, we all made it in one piece and the captain landed us (surprisingly smoothly) to a polite and very British round of applause. Now the early hours of the morning, we were all eager to get home to our beds, but first we had to battle our way through hundreds of people in the taxi queues. I shared one with a woman in her sixties who couldn't get in touch with her friend who had her apartment keys. So as she had nowhere to go, I let her stay at mine. The next morning, after awaking from a few uncomfortable hours on the sofa, I was very glad I hadn't left her on the streets since it turned out to be her birthday! Possibly not the day she was expecting! Before work, I manged to find her apartment and get hold of her friend- a small fiery Irish woman who had been out of her mind with worry. She told me I was a 'guardian angel' and that 'well if I didn't believe in God before, than beJesus I do now' When I made it to work I was in such a zombie state I accepted an espresso from my boss without complaint. He found my story both funny and typically Helen, and suggested that maybe this meant it was time for me to get some good karma. Hoping this would be the case I sleepily opened my emails- to a rejection for a job I'd recently applied to. I can only hope that maybe my good karma is just a bit delayed, or recovering from a diversion to Italy...
Homeward Bound
At the airport waiting for my boarding gate to be announced for a weekend trip home and absolutely ASTOUNDED that I just saw someone try to get a small dog through hand luggage security! I know this is France where it's okay to take pocket sized dogs round shops and restaurants but even so! Very disappointed they split us up when I got to the front of the queue and I didnt get to see what happened next! Also (bit less surprising) - but still outrageous- just paid nearly as much as a 3 course meal at work for a packet of crisps and some chewing gum. Oh and looks like my flight just got delayed for an hour :(
C'est bizarre
To make up for neglecting my blog recently, here is a rundown of the weird and wonderful things I've seen in France in the past week
> A man READING A NEWSPAPER WHILST DRIVING A CAR I realise this is France, where the drivers are a little bit crazy, and speed limits do not appear to be applicable, but this was on a busy road, with fast moving traffic. Even the other other French passengers on my bus seemed to think it was a bit out of the ordinary.
> Someone on a unicycle riding past my work. This is pretty weird considering my work is in an industrial site in the middle of nowhere (its a ten minute bus ride just to the main reception) so my only conclusion is that they rode to work on a unicycle.
> The most senior manager in my building walking downstairs bare foot.
I know we are the most casual company ever, but this, coupled with the gym shorts and t-shirt look he was sporting at the time, takes the dress code to a whole new level. We exchanged awkward (for me) bonjours, and I let him (I hope) go and find some shoes.
> A Subway (the sandwich chain) AND a mini supermarket sort-of vaguely near my work I was completely unaware of the existence of civilisation outside of my office, so that was a pleasant surprise, and gives me somewhere to walk on my ridiculously long lunch break.
>French TV - In French 'scripted reality' programmes, there are kidnaps, attempted murders, and people being held at gun point. This is much more exciting then the English ones and just as believable so I would definitely recommend this approach being adopted with 'TOWIE' and such
-The F word is acceptable to use on a family chat show at 7pm
-The easiest way to spot if a programme is French or just dubbed into French is how much nudity there is.
-The perfume adverts that are in French in England to sound 'romantic' are then dubbed back into English in France. Confusing.
Fun fact of the day...
Turns out I live in a Mafia run area. I don't know why I am surprised, in the grand scheme of things that have gone wrong on my year abroad so far, this one is pretty tame. Over a team lunch today, my senior manager casually mentioned that due to our borders with Italy, the Cote d'Azur is ridden by Mafia. Apparently all the seaside vendors and restaurants nearby have to pay a fee for 'protection' otherwise their businesses get smashed up. I double checked with Google, and the French news backs this up. For those who understand French, here are some lovely articles http://www.rue89.com/2012/07/28/des-familles-de-la-mafia-calabraise-essaiment-sur-la-cote-dazur-234217 http://www.lefigaro.fr/actualite-france/2012/03/05/01016-20120305ARTFIG00376-la-mafia-calabraise-investit-la-cote-d-azur.php For those who don't here are some cheerful excerpts, courtesy of Google Translate and I... "Mafia clans swarm on the Cote d'Azur" "One of the most powerful mafia is historically located on the Riviera, Cap 'Antibes"
"The 'mafia collusion' with French organized crime is now proven." "Real estate transactions on the Cote d'Azur show economic ties with bandits, entrepreneurs, building developers and local officials. "As well as links with Corsican drug trafficking, the Calabrian mafia has interests in taverns, restaurants and beaches." So there you go, according to my work colleagues, the mafia run money laundering operations financed by prostitution and drug trafficking from non profitable pizzerias in the region. Sounds unbelievable but apparently true! Food for thought next time I get a take out pizza...