Angela's Costumery & Creations

My name is Angela. I’m twenty-six years old and I’m a self taught seamstress who has been documenting my learning (and sewing) process since the very start. I make a lot of historically inspired things, with emphasis on the inspired part. I like ruffles and sequins too much for any real accuracy. I took a break from Tumblr for, oh, seven years or so. But now I’m back, because Instagram has gotten too complicated for me, lol. You can still find me there, though, and also on Youtube 💕 💕💕 For serious inquiries I can be reached at [email protected]

[angelacostumery]

Sewing progress from March...I will try to describe this in more detailed posts later, since I have like 250 photos from March alone (and like 200gb of footage but that is another story).

Originally started in October but didn't make much progress until this month, was busy with other things.

Still haven't made as much progress as I'd like, but I do like how it is coming along! Many fun textures.

[angelacostumery]

Snapshots from the sewing room this month! Working on something overly detailed and time-consuming that I will probably faill to finish on time, as per usual 😭

At least it is pretty and the vibes are good. That has to count for something, surely?

[angelacostumery]

I present to you: The Pumpkin Ball Gown.

Ok, more like The Mostly Finished Pumpkin Ball Gown.

Unfortunately, I remain consistent at one thing and one thing only: missing deadlines. 

At least this is done enough that I can pin it into something resembling the final product. It just isn't wearable yet (that is a minor detail when making clothing, right?)

This took a lot longer than it should have for a bunch of reasons, mainly the fact I had a very strong vision of what it should look like and was pretty uncompromising in my efforts to achieve that.

The good news is that I resolved the various issues I had with bringing the design to life and I'm really happy with it! I just, you know, failed to finish bringing it to life prior to the holiday most closely associated with pumpkins.

Hopefully in the next week I'll finish the binding/collar/waistband/etc...and maybe a video about it too, stranger things have happened!

[angelacostumery]

Guess who finished another corset? (it's ME)

This guy comes from a 1874 pattern (specifically this one)

I made some not-so-minor additions to the pattern since most corsets run very small and I am not.

This was a rare occasion where the first mock up was way too big, but it still showed some promise!

(or maybe I just have low standards? idk)

The second mockup was made from denim, here is it straight off the sewing machine.

I took it in quite a bit because the back edges were touching which is a no-no. The gap here is much more preferable but it still had, um, issues...

I could basically fold the cups down and completely expose myself. More boning will help with that, but the gores had to be taken in, too.

This was the third fitting that day and it kind of looks th same but with more markings on it, so I did something I guess.

I made a new pattern based on that and then blah blah blah lots of sewing/cording/boning/progress.

More progress, all the boning added, binding done, etc.

Finally had enough progress to baste in closures and do another fitting. Some parts of this looked good. Other parts, however...

See typically you don't want the neckline to gape like two inches away from the boob.

So when adding the trim I also gathered that bit down. You can add a drawstring to accomplish this but the corded sections were so thick I didn't see that working well.

The end result is much, much better.

And that was about it. Obviously, there were a lot of steps to constructing this and hopefully, I will have a video up about that this weekend, but most of the pictures I took were about the fit so that's what I have to offer here.

There is some rippling, it isn't perfect by any means. But I think I can use the excuse of being out of practice for this one and I will take full advantage of that.

This is quite comfortable to wear and very light (cotton over lightweight canvas with buckram, corded, and boned elements for structure..)

I used d-rings at the center back instead of eyelets since I have always found eyelets prone to ripping out over time, no matter how I attempt to prevent that from happening. Worse case these rings will bend and can be replaced.

This was my first time trying it on since "finishing it" -- will aim for a more even lacing gap next time and wear it with a chemise, I just wanted to highlight the fit difference in the bust which is most notable when against bare skin.

I really like the line of the back and front silhouette, and think this cups my stomach better than any I've made in the past. There is still a bit of a gap at the bottom edge, so I might bend the busk a bit more to resolve that.

But overall, a much better result than I anticipated.

[angelacostumery]

A few days (weeks? what is time..) ago I posted about paper corset samples based on historic patterns. This was one of them, and very unique given its horizontal and simple piecing. I played around with it some and here were my results...

I had to widen the original pattern quite a lot, because it was made for a 22"/24" waist or something much much too small for me. I lengthened them slightly too but clearly not enough because this was basically an underbust corset on me lol.

I added a bunch of fabric to the top edge and like a dozen of gores. Ended up overcompensating as you can see by how the top and bottom touch at the back and how it gapes everywhere else.

I went through a couple rounds of removing more and more volume until it looks more acceptable. You can see how it is following the line of my stomach now and the gap at the back is more even (though obviously not perfect).

I cut away a lot of what I added to the top in the process and wasn't totally sure how to move forward. But I knew another mockup was required so figured I'd transfer the changes to paper and go from there.

I ended up using the original pattern (well not original original, the wider, longer, version I used to make the mockup above) and following the top and bottom lines pretty closely, as well as the curvature against the middle section (which remained unchanged through all of what you see above) while also adding a bit more volume.

And this was the result. A bit of an improvement, I think, lol. Going to add a bit more room to the top since there is a bit of spillage and a bit more room in the hips at the side.

I also took it in at the bottom of the centerback and let it out slightly at the top, so hopefully it will be more even. I think I will make the center portion like 1/4" narrower which should improve the shape, but might make the gap uneven again since the fat has to go somewhere.

Anyway, that is a worry for another day.

Also my paper model has the back marked as the front, oops lol.

[angelacostumery]

look who finally finished a thing! made from rayon faille with cotton canvas and broadcloth interior. Steel boned. I think the fit over the belly will be slightly better after bending the busk but other than that it is finished.

Surprisingly happy with the shape and fit of this. But it was no easier to make than a typical corset despite the simplistic piecing since the boning channels all have to be sewn after it is assembled which is really really annoying to do.

But hey, it's done now!

[angelacostumery]

another day, another corset.

trying to make four of these at once was a bad idea. technically faster, perhaps, but both confusing and soul crushing.

[angelacostumery]

Soo much cording. It isn't perfect but I'm too tired to redo any of it lol.

The channels for these were made by laying silk and fallie over a interaced base, and over a plastic skewer that creates the volume required for each channel and serves as a spacer.

I sewed close to the covered skewer with a zipper foot, then did that over and over again.

Like, so many times.

Each channel was filled with six pieces of cotton yarn because I didn't have any coordage that was thin enough. That was an ordeal, one that involved a plastic needle taped to a piece of 18" long hoop steel to thread the yarn through but it's fine, it is done.

The horizontal bits were much much easier and are only padded with four pieces of yarn.

Still lots to do on it but progress is progress!!

[angelacostumery]

A few days (weeks? what is time..) ago I posted about paper corset samples based on historic patterns. This was one of them, and very unique given its horizontal and simple piecing. I played around with it some and here were my results...

I had to widen the original pattern quite a lot, because it was made for a 22"/24" waist or something much much too small for me. I lengthened them slightly too but clearly not enough because this was basically an underbust corset on me lol.

I added a bunch of fabric to the top edge and like a dozen of gores. Ended up overcompensating as you can see by how the top and bottom touch at the back and how it gapes everywhere else.

I went through a couple rounds of removing more and more volume until it looks more acceptable. You can see how it is following the line of my stomach now and the gap at the back is more even (though obviously not perfect).

I cut away a lot of what I added to the top in the process and wasn't totally sure how to move forward. But I knew another mockup was required so figured I'd transfer the changes to paper and go from there.

I ended up using the original pattern (well not original original, the wider, longer, version I used to make the mockup above) and following the top and bottom lines pretty closely, as well as the curvature against the middle section (which remained unchanged through all of what you see above) while also adding a bit more volume.

And this was the result. A bit of an improvement, I think, lol. Going to add a bit more room to the top since there is a bit of spillage and a bit more room in the hips at the side.

I also took it in at the bottom of the centerback and let it out slightly at the top, so hopefully it will be more even. I think I will make the center portion like 1/4" narrower which should improve the shape, but might make the gap uneven again since the fat has to go somewhere.

Anyway, that is a worry for another day.

Also my paper model has the back marked as the front, oops lol.

[angelacostumery]

stumbled across this gem when sorting out my fabric stash and figuring out what to sell. it speaks to me on a deep level. especially the girl crying on the floor of her sewing room.

[angelacostumery]

I spent longer than I would care to admit today making tiny corsets from "free" or public domain patterns and construction paper. Each one is about the size of my hand (pattern was sized to fit on an 8 1/2" by 11" piece of paper).

This one is from Tygodnik Mód 1869, pattern floating around on Pinterest. Really interesting three piece design.

This one is from Die Frauenwelt 1874, also floating around on Pinterest. I like the simple two piece body with gores for shaping, much easier to alter than seams. Note how this cups the stomach rather than flaring out? The longer line dresses of the 1870s required corsets to have more structure below the waist, opposed to 1860s styles that ended there.

A little later on, this is from a 1878 patent. I made this mostly because it combines the gores and full length pieces. I love the side profile, front and back, not so much.

These next two are both from "Complete Guide to Ladies Garment Cutting" c. 1883.

I think this one has the "best" shape which is interesting since it specifies it is for stout ladies lol. The back is very flat too which surprises me, I'd expect there to be more volume there to support the bustle.

This one I made mostly because it doesn't have gores and is different for that era. The pieces didn't line up well and it feels almost like this should begin below the bust? That top line is SO ODD.

But! The side profile and volume over the hips is pretty great. Something to revisit eventually, maybe, it will just require more work.

The next three are from the Symington Corset archive which is very fun to look through if you never have before! A hundred+ original patterns from the 1890s.

I picked three, starting with this earlier design which didn't end up being very shapely at all. I wonder if this is for juniors? This was an instant "no" for me, has no redeeming qualities for what I want in an 1890s corset. Maybe for the 1920s, lol...

(edit; I wonder if what I thought were narrow bones in the seams is actually cord? making it even more lightweight in terms of support.)

I love the front and back of this sooo much. It is so waspy and easier than the others to alter IMO given the simplicity of the piecing. It is very straight in the back, though, which probably won't work for me.

Lastly, is this guy. Which I think is the best rounded--this could work for the 80s and 90s. I like the side profile of this a lot but not so much the front. I also feel like the narrow pieces with centered bones will be harder to alter than the wider pieces shown above. But the back slope on this one would be better for me and the rise on the hips looks more comfortable.

This was a fun little test! Some looked very different than I expected based on how they looked flat and gives me some insight on which to use as a base for altering to my measurements.

Which is your favorite?

[angelacostumery]

sleeves continued....(part one in case you missed it). I added organza ruffles to the bottom edge, then embellished that bottom edge with these flower sequins that everything gets caught on but look super cute.

now. these sleeves are very fitted and extend over the hand, so to get them cinched at the wrist there is a zipper sewn upside down from cuff to elbow. that isn't very magical is it??

I covered twill tape with taffeta and trimmed it with the selvage of the lace so the color would match. then it was whipped edge to edge along one side (which does not require seam allowance but does require both edges to be independently finished.)

now you can see how it looks when pressed flat over the zipper teeth (bottom left) compared to no placket at all (top left).

I can hear your skepticism from here but stay with me ok. because as you can see I covered it with bits of lace I fussy cut out and it looks much better (right).

I sewed the edges of the lace to the placket then continued the beading pattern overtop of it so it would better blend in.

now that is an improvement if I do say so myself (and I do.)

and the other side looks pretty cute too!

now for those of you who are wondering: "why didn't you use an invisible zip?" I don't find they zip particularly smoothly when installed in thicker fabrics which this corded lace absolutely qualifies as.

and for the other other person who is wondering: "why didn't you lap the seam allowance over it or sew closer to the teeth?"

the corded lace is thick and I didn't want it doubled over, I thought it would look clunky. I also don't like sewing super close to the teeth when working with mesh or lace because it is prone to catching in them. and since I like the sturdiness of metal teethed zippers, when things catch, they get bitten. 😉

[angelacostumery]

here is more sleeve progress...it's neverending. I don't think I could have made this more complicated if I tried.

basically, I wanted an overlay to connect the fitted part of the sleeve to the puffed part without a seam.

so I pleated all of this vertically beaded material down until it matched the width of my bicep, then sewed it onto a canvas base. (left)

I also constructed the puffed portion from taffeta/organza/lace. (right)

the puffed portion was sewn onto the canvas base above where the pleats end, then the overlay was pinned and pleated to fit the top bit. there was some fussing to bridge the transition between the puff and the overlay but that is for another day.

then I decided the overlay would be too busy and opaque with the diagonal bits on top. so I had to trim the vertical bits down. (scary)

then I had to actually make the diagonal bits. I cut out the beaded strips with pinking sheers and sewed them down to mesh stolen from the selvedge, then covered the stitching with sequis and beads I fussy cut from scraps.

now they were basically done so obviously I decided I hated them. I thought the puffed portion looked sloppy beneath the overlay. so I cut it out (scary) and replaced it with whatever yous ee below.

then the overlay was sewn back down AGAIN for the third and final time. I also added a snowflake applique to the center.

after this stage I chose to slash them at multiple points to take them in by 1/2" which was also (scary)

annnnd I added a big ol addition to the underarm because the design changed so much I had to patch things as I went and they looked bad so I cut them off and replaced them with this to give me the width I needed. I think this looks slightly better?

fingers crossed these will be finished without further changes.

[angelacostumery]

it turns out you can in fact spend an entire month on a pair of sleeves. 😭

taffeta with a canvas base, the lace covers the seams and is embellished with sequins and glass beads.

the seam point between it and the elbow puff is softened with appliques and more beads.

[angelacostumery]

there was a solid effort at a Christmas project this year but it just...didn't come together in time :(

the idea of this was for the skirt to be composed of a giant bow. like, a really giant bow, see below. this is it on a 72" wide table.

but getting it to sit nicely was...not as easy as I thought it would be. and I ended up making three underskirts and still don't love the one I ended up with. so keep your eyes out for a 'festive failure' video at some point lol.

[angelacostumery]

more photos of this skirt when it was finished!

the bodice was pieced with a triangle front to serve as the top of the "tree" and has ribbon loops stitched along the bottom edge which I zip tied more of the pine garland to so it covers the waistband of the skirt and makes it look like a single piece.

the bodice has boning and bust cups in it and all that jazz (video about it here).

weirdly the most frustrating part of this entire thing was trying to sew very stiff ribbon onto very cheap gloves in parallel lines haha!

[angelacostumery]

throwback to that time I made a hoopskirt and decorated it to look like a christmas tree.

faux pine garlands were zip tied to each hoop, then lights were wound around each one. I added bows and tinsel garland, then zip tied on dozens of ornamnets.

it is lined with organza and lame for modesty.

there is a video about how I did it, if you would like more information!

overall 10/10 way to justify buying christmas decorations, would do again.

[angelacostumery]

I finished it! Only 38 days past the deadline. That is what happens when you're self employed but also a terrible boss.

Anyway, this took me a ridiculous length of time.

It's made from a polyester/rayon faille with a glittery gold mesh overlay and a velvet mesh overlay. Appliques were cut from the velvet and arranged and hand sewn together around the hem, collar, cuffs, and sleeves.

The beading and lace details you see on the collar is repeated around the entire hem, using over six-thousand beads.

The belt and bow is fully beaded by hand, it began as a strip of plain eyelet lace.

Perhaps one day I will have worn photos to share. Today is not that day. But I can share a one hour video documenting the process of making this!