Where the Heart Is: Tuguegarao Through Ilocano Eyes
Hi! I’m Cyrus, an Ilocano college student living in Tuguegarao City, and I’d love to share a little bit about my life here. If you’re an Ilocano like me or just curious about the culture that thrives quietly in this busy northern city, agbiag tayo, kabsat! This story’s really close to my heart.
Tuguegarao City is the capital of Cagayan Province, located in the northeast part of Luzon. We’re known for having some of the hottest temperatures in the Philippines, especially around April and May, when the heat really kicks in. Even with the heat, there’s a warm, welcoming vibe here that I wouldn't trade for anything.
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Culturally, we’re a mix of Ybanag, Ilocano, and Itawes influences, with people from other places also settling here. Most people speak Ybanag or Ilocano, but you’ll hear Tagalog and English too, especially in schools and businesses.
While Tuguegarao has deep Ybanag roots, Ilocano culture is also very much alive here. You can hear it when we talk at the market, taste it in the food we cook, and feel it in the way we live.
𝗔 𝗣𝗶𝗲𝗰𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗛𝗼𝗺𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗛𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗶𝘁𝘆
Growing up in an Ilocano home meant waking up to the smell of inabraw cooking, hearing my nanang say “agan-annad ka anakko” (be careful, child), and learning that every grain of rice is precious. Even now, as I live the busy college life, those little lessons stay with me every day.
Tuguegarao may have people from different backgrounds, but as an Ilocano, I still find ways to hold on to my roots. I still speak Ilocano with my friends and the market vendors, still look for dinakdakan when I’m feeling homesick, and still call older people manang or manong to show respect—even if we just met.
𝗔 𝗙𝗮𝗺𝗶𝗹𝘆 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗱𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗜’𝗹𝗹 𝗡𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿 𝗙𝗼𝗿𝗴𝗲𝘁
One tradition I always look forward to is our Christmas celebration. Back home, it’s not just about Noche Buena or presents—it’s about coming together as a family. Every Christmas Eve, we gather at my grandparents' house in the province, and the whole family helps cook classic Ilocano dishes like papaitan and pinakbet. We light candles, pray in Ilocano, and eat together with our hands, laughing over old stories and teasing the uncles who always fall asleep during videoke. It’s loud, warm, and full of love—a true reflection of our Ilocano spirit. Now that I’m in the city, those memories feel even more special. I might not be able to go home as often, but every day, I carry that tradition with me.
Photo from Amiable Foods. All rights reserved. https://amiablefoods.com/beef-papaitan/
𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗙𝗹𝗮𝘃𝗼𝗿 𝗼𝗳 𝗛𝗼𝗺𝗲: 𝗙𝗼𝗼𝗱 𝗧𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗙𝗲𝗲𝗹𝘀 𝗟𝗶𝗸𝗲 𝗙𝗮𝗺𝗶𝗹𝘆
In our kitchen, the smell of pinakbet cooking on a wood stove or the taste of the flavorful igado during family celebrations was always present. We love simple dishes, packed with flavor, usually made from ingredients right in our backyard or from the local market—like malunggay, talong, ampalaya, and a good amount of bagoong.
But in Tuguegarao, food doesn’t end with Ilocano classics. We’ve also embraced local favorites, like the famous Pancit Batil Patung. At first, I didn’t understand it—a mix of carabao meat, poached egg, and egg-drop soup? But once you try it, you get it. It’s rich, full of character, and really shows how Tuguegarao blends different cultures into something special. Just like this dish, it’s a little bit of everything that makes this place unique.
Image courtesy of Kawaling Pinoy. All rights reserved. https://www.kawalingpinoy.com/pinakbet/ "Igado" image via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.
𝗜𝗹𝗼𝗰𝗮𝗻𝗼 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝘂𝗱
Being Ilocano in Tuguegarao means knowing how to make the most out of a budget (we’re good at being matipid, or frugal!), how to stay humble, and how to treat others with respect. We’re not flashy, but we’re solid—just like our values: family, hard work, simplicity, and faith. Life here may be a little slower than big cities like Manila or Cebu, but that’s why I love it. The people are kind, family-oriented, and proud of who we are. Even as more modern things come into town, we still hold on to what makesus unique—our language, food, traditions, and the love we share for each other.
So yes, life in the city is fast and busy. But this kabsat? I’m walking through it all with Ilocano pride, one bowl of Pancit Batil Patung at a time.