Norabelle & Russell's Honeymoon @barnberger-honeymoon - Tumblr Blog

Last Stop: Madrid

Madrid was the perfect last stop on our vacation. We enjoyed three nights there with beautiful weather and enough time and sunshine to not have us feeling guilty for laying low in our lovely apartment as needed - the perfect transition back to reality (and back to bigger city life!).

We arrived mid-afternoon on Thursday and, after parking the car (an adventure in an of itself given the narrow, hilly, twisting roads we drove to find the garage), we headed out for a bight in the neighborhood. We ended up at a local taverna where I ate something that I still have no idea what it was, but which was tasty! A “gulas” toast with a garlicky aioli. Just looking it up now and apparently they are imitation baby eels? That’s kind of what they looked like, so I guess that makes sense. We then moved locations to a little outdoor cafe near our airbnb while I met with our host, got the keys, etc. and then headed out for a few hours of exploration. Our airbnb was 2 blocks from the reina sofia museum, as well as being pretty close to the Prado, Botanic Garden, and El Retiro Park. First stop on our agenda: El Retiro Park, which was the perfect place to stroll in the 90 degree weather! It’s funny going back to a city I haven’t been to in 15 years - I entered the park no knowing that I had been there before, and, upon seeing the big lake and statue, it was a major déja vue. This kept happening the entire time we were in Mardid.

The following day (with temperatures even higher) we decided to venture out to one of Madrid’s many municipal pools. Our pick was the Piscina Lago in Casa de Campo Park, a huge park about 40 minutes by foot west of our apartment. En route there we passed many places that I remembered from 15 years prior, including the Plaza Mayor and the Royal Palace (pictured below).

The Piscina Lago ended up being the perfect choice for a pool, with three beautiful outdoor pools, lots of space for lounging, and all within the oasis that is Casa de Campo Park.

Post poolside lounging, we had to check one last item off our bucket list: paella. We decided on El Caldero, which I had read about as a top spot for paella. We shared a gigantic steaming hot dish of their paella with chicken, shrimp, clams, calamari, and vegetables. It was deliciously filling

In the evening we began making our way to the northeast of our apartment towards the La Ventas stadium where we had booked seats for a bullfight. On the walk there I found myself constantly stopping to take pictures of all of the beautiful buildings that the city has to offer.

The bullfight was quite the experience. Las Ventas is a beautiful space for viewing. While built in the 1930s, it gives one the impression of being there forever, lined with tiny stone seats that has every crammed in to watch the action take place. (Thank goodness for the seat cushions they have for rent). While we had no idea about anything bullfighting-related when we picked up our tickets online one week prior, we arrived to learn that Madrid was in the middle of its largest bullfighting season and that the fight that we had purchased tickets for was a sold out event with one of the top bullfighters in the world. The experience was truly one of a kind. It was amazing seeing the artistry of some of the performers and (thanks to our kind seat neighbor) begin to understand a little more about what the matches entail.

We decided to take it easy on our last day in Madrid, relaxing in the morning, and just heading out for a short stroll in the morning to check out the spice shop and have our final sangria, and then another short stroll in the evening, back to El Retiro Park to see the Reina Sofia art exhibit in the crystal palace and, finally, have some churros and chocolate.

Seville, Granada, and Córdoba, oh my

Seville seems like a blip on this whirlwind of traveling. We arrived mid-afternoon (just in time for drinks and our first tapas of the trip - codfish croquettes and a spinach and chickpea stew - both delicious) and checked into our Airbnb located on a tiny street just off a big pedestrian plaza full of people sitting at cafe tables having sangria and kids playing soccer. Highlight of our Airbnb: our terrace! Equipped with perfectly placed benches for reading under the sun before it sets (post 10pm). Anther highlight: a/c, because we have officially arrived in summer weather (mid 90s). The weather is entirely determined by the sun, though, with cooler 60s/70s weather in the mornings - perfect for taking advantage of seville's flat terrain for some runs!

After a relaxing afternoon and evening in our neighborhood, we spent a lovely day exploring all of Seville's nooks and crannies, crossing many a bridge, exploring many a terrace cafe, and eating all the food. Some highlights were rowing through the moat in the Plaza d'Espagne and stepping from tiny curving roads out into beautiful plazas.

After 2 nights in Seville, we were off to Córdoba, but decided to take a roundabout route through Granada to check out the Alhambra and have lunch. For lunch, we enjoyed sitting under misters while enjoying some tasty eats - oxtail croquettes, gaspacho, fried shark, and a Córdoba specialty of rolled and fried ham and cheese.

The drive from Granada to Córdoba was beautiful, past rolling hills of almond trees.

Córdoba is beautiful. A calm oasis of white buildings and winding narrow streets, and a beautiful blend of Islamic and Spanish architecture. Out favorite Spanish city so far - I don't know if it's the weather, the hours and hours of sunlight, the white buildings, or our general state of total relaxation, but it feels like we are in a coastal town here. The flowers and orange trees are blooming everywhere, and the rides of the annual Córdoba fair can be seen in the background (across the river) as women in beautiful flamenco dresses make their way there.

The food has been delicious here, too! For dinner our first night we opted for tapas (again), and started with two Córdoba specialties: a gaspacho served with slivers of cured ham and crumbled egg, and a cold almond cream soup served with smoked trout, vinegar, and sliced grapes. Both delicious.

The following morning, we woke up early (like every day) and went straight to the mosque/cathedral, which is free to explore before 9:30 am! The building was incredible and bizarre, being a mix of Islamic and Christian architectural styles, and was huge. For being such a small city, Córdoba is full of hidden treasures to explore, like the many palaces and churches we stumbled upon, the alcazar, and a 13th century synagogue - one of only 3 synagogues in Spain.

Other highlights included a leisurely breakfast in a park cafe - crushed tomato spooned over toast, fresh squeezed oj, and some nice strong espressos.

Algavare

Our list of Atlantic sights/beach visits has increased exponentially since my last post. We took our time driving from Lisbon to carvoeira, meandering along the wester coast of the country through a large national park, stopping for food and chances to snap pics along the way. Some snaps from the drive down are below.

^^View from the castle in Sines, where w stopped en route from Lisbon for a quick lunch.

^^Our next en route beach stop: Zambujeira do Mar.

^^First view of the southern coast from Ponta da Piedade in Lagos.

^^Our home for 2 days: Carvoeiro

On our first full day in Carvoeiro, we booked a kayak tour of the caves along Portugal's southern coast, which started in Ferragudo (to the west of Carvoiero) and headed east along the coast. The tour was 3 hours of beautiful sunny weather but surprisingly choppy water! Navigating our way through tunnels and into caves was exciting (especially for Russell, given or shared kayak situation and my comparatively weaker paddling skills) and the tour was a great way to experience the coast!

After the morning kayak tour, we spent the afternoon lounging on a small beach that we had seen from our kayaks, enjoying every minute of beach time we had before we headed inland to Spain the following day!

More Portugal eats

When we arrived in Lisbon, our wonderful Airbnb host took the time to sit down with us and give us her must go to list of restaurants and bars (and sights), which was amazing! Her choices were all spot on and gave us an eclectic and authentic view of the city!

Hours after arriving, we went to a bar called Pharmacia, at the museum of pharmacy, with all drinks pharmacy/medicine inspired, and views out over the city from an old palace lawn. These drinks were a first glimpse at what we soon learned was a citywide trend in drinks: dried fruit garnishes.

After drinks at Pharmacia, we went to another of Isabella’s recommendations: Tomo-la-da-ca, a hidden local spot with no sign out front that served simple delicious Portuguese food. Little did we know when we placed our order (we each ordered fish) that our 9 euro fish mains were in fact one whole fish per person plus sides. Delicious and oh so filling.

The following day, we went for drinks and lunch at a rooftop bar of Hotel Chiado, recommended specifically for its views. The views were definitely there highlight.

After our light rooftop lunch, we headed to the neighborhood of Belem (by tuk-tuk) to try the infamous pastries de Belem! Apparently the nata pastries found all over Portugal are only imitations of this secret recipe! Served warm and dusted with cinnamon, they were a treat!

We continued our Lisbon food exploration with a chef’s choice tasting menu dinner at mini bar, one of chef Jose Avillez’s several Lisbon restaurants. All of the dishes are meant to be surprises, either in the experience of eating them or their flavors. Our meal started with a cocktail that was actually a slice of apple that tasted like a margarita. Next up was an “exploding olive”. I have no idea what it was, but it did explode in our mouths, and it did taste like an olive. Next was a “ferrera rocher”, which was in fact a ball of foie gras with cocoa powder and hazelnut. Other dishes included cones of steak tartare and raw tuna (both eaten like ice cream cones), a dish of bread crumbs, cheese, and an egg that we popped to create a type of porridge, scallops served over an open flame, a burger with the chef’s take on patata bravas, and an icy neon orb of lemon lime filled with a fruity cream for dessert.

Our last night in Lisbon, we went to an old spy bar in our neighborhood known for its meandering rooms filled with memorabilia and knickknacks and the 365 cocktails on its menu.

In Carvoeiro (our next and last Portugal stop after Lisbon) the food highlight was definitely our decadent coma-inducing breakfasts served by our hosts. Each morning included homemade bread, homemade jams from fruit from the garden, homemade nut butters, a platter of meats and cheese, fruit salads, cafe con leche, fresh squeezed orange juice, multiple pastries, and a few other dishes to round out the first meal of the day. Insane.

Lisboa

The topography: just as crazy as Porto (we have officially ruled out running here). Our Airbnb is up close to the precipice of barrio alto, up 2 incredibly steep hills from our parking garage. The legs are definitely getting a workout. One difference though is that the low points along the waterfront are much larger and flatter, allowing for greater rest than our legs were ever given in Porto! As the second city we visited, it is hard to not compare the two constantly. Let's see how my "Porto impressions" compare... The streets: while less narrow, are still no less hilly. In fact, many more are characterized by the presence of stairs and/or trams that simply run up and down the sides of Lisbon's many hills. The streets are just as curving, hidden, and inviting, with the stairs and the lighter color of the abutting buildings bringing to mind the streets of Montmartre. Perhaps more exceptional here is the cobblestone, with the sidewalks and streets decorated with combinations of black and white stones, spelling out street names and building numbers, or demarcating crosswalks or roadway lanes. Also the purple flowering trees! I have no idea what these beauties are, but they are flowering and flying through the air everywhere!

The bridges: hardly any - well, there is one that kind of looks like the Golden Gate Bridge to the west of the center of town, but the river that Lisbon lies along the banks of is much wider than the Duoro, and there is less connection between the two sides of the river. (Another bridge highlight of Lisbon is actually located outside of the city (to the east) and is the longest bridge in Europe at over 7 miles.) As a replacement to the bridges (in terms of epic-ness) are Lisbon's many lookout point parks. In the warm weather we have been having here they are filled with people and music, and the views are incredible.

The transport: trams are everywhere, either running long circuitous routes with the traffic or short trips up and down the sides of mountains. While there aren't any cable cars, there are still tuk-tuks! And we finally had a chance to try one, traveling out to Belem for pastries (apparently the "nata" pastries I raved about in Porto are just an imitation of this infamous Belem pastry!).

The tile: is way less ubiquitous here (or maybe we've just gotten used to it). I feel like the buildings of Lisbon are lighter and brighter and grander, giving an overall more regal feel to the city.

The views (and sounds) from our Lisbon Airbnb - we are across the street from the national academy of music!

Waving from across the pond

As we have been traveling north to south through Portugal, we have been making a point of stopping along the coast along the way, taking in the ever-changing landscape. A few photos and stories from those first few Atlantic views: While in Porto we hopped on the bus and headed from the neighborhood we were staying in (Valencia) west to the neighborhood of Foz do Douro, which lies right where the Duoro meets the Atlantic. The sand was thick and rocky, with large rock outcroppings that reminded us of New England, and specifically Maine. We walked to the end of old structures jutting into the ocean, with waves splashing on both sides, and meandered back into the center of the city, popsicle in hand.

En route from porto to Lisbon, we stopped in Aveiro, a town I had heard about because of its colorful (and striped!) buildings and excellent seafood. After stopping in the city center, having a quick sandwich and fresh juice at the art nouveau museum cafe, and (apparently this is a requirement) eating ovos moles (a treat made of a thin cookie crust and filled with a custard), we headed out to the coast. The beaches were incredible. Empty, white, the softest sand, and rolling waves. We put our toes in the ocean and meandered through the tiny streets lined with colorful striped buildings before heading on the Lisbon.

While in Lisbon (blog post on that to come), we took a day trip out to Sintra and Cascais, which are directly west of Lisbon. In Sintra, while inland from the ocean, we visited the Pena Palace, a colorful palace that was originally a monastery and that lies on the precipice of one of Sintra’s many hills. From there, the views of Sintra’s multiple other palaces, with the hills and greenery leading to the Atlantic, were incredible. After making our way back down the hill, we made a pitstop in Cascais, another lovely beach town, for some gelato and to watch the paddle boarders in action. We then headed back to Lisbon along the coastline, taking in every last minute of the sea breeze.

Porto impressions

1 day out of Porto, here is what still sticks in my mind....

The streets: while scary to drive on (despite almost all of them being accessible to cars, often in both directions), the streets are tiny and mysterious. Each feels like a secret passageway you stumbled upon, and because they are so narrow, with buildings built right up to the roadway edge, you can never see beyond the line of sight in front of you, further allowing you to get totally lost in the best possible way. Also in love with the stone pattern work of the streets. We passed a man chiseling away at a single rock repairing one section today. The topography: every wandering walk is a hike (which made finding semi-flat running routes a challenge). And sometimes through lush greenery that runs up and down the cliffs of the city. Even vineyards within the city! Simply incredible.

The bridges: are so high! Because of the dramatic topography and needing to connect to the tops of the cliffs, the many bridges that connect the two sides of the duoro are incredibly high. With none of the typical American high fences (hence Russell's terrified position as he looks over the edge in that one photo). The bridges are beautiful in their design, with a mix of metal and concrete arched spans. Beautiful to take in the views of the city from, as well as looking up at the bridges as part of the greater city vistas.

The transport: cable cars, funiculars, streetcars, double decker buses, subways, and Tuk-Tuks, oh my! Also, I think this may be the one city in the world where your cable car ticket gets you a free porto tasting. No complaints.

The tile: From far away, the buildings look like they are monochromatic, but as you approach, the intricacy of the tile reveals itself. Why does this only exist here? Can we make this happen stateside, pretty please?

Porto food & drink

We ate and drank so many glorious things while in Porto.

When we first arrived, Russell was starving and noticed what looked like a cheese covered grilled cheese with so much desire. Little did we know that later that nighbt we would be discovering this Porto dish: the francesinha. On or first night in Porto, we went to dinner at a recommended tapas spot just down the street (cadeireiros) and asked the waiter for his recommendations. His must eat was the francesinha, which he described as “a slice of bread, then ham, then a steak, then 2 kinds of sausage, cheese, some more ham, steak, sausage, and cheese, and another slice of bread, covered in cheese, baked, and then served with the chef’s special sauce.” There is nothing inaccurate in that explanation. Also, this dish requires slicing instructions. We learned well.

Also at this meal we learned of two other Porto/Portuguese items: (1) shishito peppers (which we already knew we loved); and (2) Porto tonico, which is a cocktail made of white port and tonic water.

Day 2, we headed to the south side of the duoro for a puorto tasting at grahams, supposedly one of the best tours in Porto, and, from our experience, truly a treat. A little off the beaten path, we learned so much on this tour, in addition to sampling some ruby, tawny, and vintage port. What we learned: (1) Porto (to be called “porto”) has to be made from grapes from the duoro valley; (2) grahams was started in the early 1800s by two Scotish brothers, but is now owner by a larger Portuguese company that owns several port producers; (3) port is left to age in Porto because of the coastal town’s temperate climate, which is in stark contrast with the duoro valley; (4) graham’s is made from the grapes of 5 vineyards in the duoro, one of which is exclusively picked by hand and pressed by human feet (the rest using a machine that simulates human feet); (5) the duoro, because of its cold winters and hot summers combined with its rough soil, produces small concentrated grapes; (6) to be considered a “vintage” port, a port maker must age the port for 2 years and then send a sample to a group that judges whether it is worthy of being considered a vintage; (7) ruby port is aged 2 years in wood, tawny port is aged more than 2 years in wood, and vintage port is aged as long as humanly possible in glass bottles.

Second night, we were in the mood for seafood and went to a spot close by that was well reviewed. In addition to eating delicious mains, the waiter recommended we started with “goose neck barnacles”. So glad we did. I have no idea what we were eating, but they were so delicious. And an experience to eat!

For dessert, we strolled down to another nearby street to try (finally) pastel de nata - the quintessential Portuguese pastry. I was wondering if it was overhyped, but that was not the case. It was essentially a crème brûlée instead a perfectly baked pastry. For 80 cents. Major fan. For sure.

Our Airbnb here has to be the most unique Airbnb we have ever stayed at. Our host (Paulo) is an architect and bought our building and the two neighboring buildings (we are the middle one) to rehab in the last 10 years or so. The buildings all date back to the 17th century, and our center wedge-shaped building spans 3 stories/functions as 5.5 semi-stories connected by a spiral stair.

The building sits on a tiny road (of course) in the Victoria neighborhood, about a 5-minute walk to the waterfront, with plenty of wonderful food and drink right nearby. When we first arrived, we attempted to drive right by our place, but, after cursing at/fearing for our life attempting to follow the Google directions here, we learned that our segment of the street is closed to traffic some days/times (including our arrival time).

From the street, you walk into a living room with floor to ceiling windows, white painted stone walls (which characterize the entire place), and a collection of articles posted about or host/the building we are staying in. The rear of the building is teeny and occupied by the start of the spiral stair (leading to the toilet, which is in the back on floor 1.5, the bedroom, which is in the front on floor 2, the shower, which is in the back on floor 2.5, and the living/dining room, which is in the front on floor 3, and kitchen, which is in the back on floor 3.5. The setup, white stone walls, and white spatter ceilings are beautiful and very typical of Porto.

^^The view from our top floor window

^^ This perfect building/car color pairing keeps magically happening up the street

^^ Top floor looking out over Russell eating an orange

^^ Building/airbnb host press

^^ Our street (we are up the street on the left!)

Duoro driving

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