Bay Area BBQ

All the BBQ in San Francisco Bay (and beyond)

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Smokestack, Dogpatch, San Francisco, CA (11.15.16)

It was my ‘birthday week’ (a useful concept I learned from the Mrs.), and to celebrate, I took a trip to the city to visit a friend, read this challenging and exhilarating book in city environs, and eat some BBQ.

Smokestack is a new and tasty BBQ joint in the Dogpatch, a growing part of town near the docks. Its industrial interior matches its close proximity to the Magnolia Brewing Company, both owned by Dave McLean, whom I had the pleasure of running into on the way out (no pic unfortunately).

The BBQ did the trick. Check out the layered smoke ring on the ribs—great stuff, with taste to boot. The coleslaw and side veg was refreshing, the beans more ranch style than baked, and the sauces typical western takes on BBQ sauce (is it turmeric? ‘smokey’ spices?) but unnecessary with the ribs. The place also had a choice soundtrack (live rarities from the Grateful Dead). Solid food, worth the trip.

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[Beyond] Mary’s Old Fashioned Pit Bar-B-Que, Nashville, Tennessee (8.31.16)

[Guest post by Rob]

Their slogan was "You've tried the rest, now try the best."

The Q was ok. Not terribly flavorful. Good smoke flavor, but not briney or salty or anything. Their sauce is hot, even the mild will burn your tongue. That was a nice touch. Also, they serve the meat between two corn bread patties. That was nice. With slaw and pickles on the sandwich (but neither were great).

In its day, Mary's was probably decent Q. Today, spoiled as we are by Chef BBQ, the old fashioned stuff just can't compete. Which, not sure if you have been following the hot chicken kerfuffle (check out the article in Nashville Scene that has gone viral this week [and follow up]). Basically, Hattie B's got written up in some food blog, and the writer only paid cursory respect to Prince's and Bolton's. So there was a push back about food only being notable when a white chef appropriates black food and makes it palatable for white people. A fair argument, and I feel the Nashville Scene got it right with their criticism.

But today's lunch reminded me that a lot of what you get at the old fashioned, original restaurants is not always as good as you expect/‘remember’ it to be. Kind of like how we all have fond memories of our grandmothers' cooking. But honestly, my grandmother is not a great cook in the way we eat today. Good at casseroles and all, but not really eating fresh veggies and good cuts of meat.

What's great about a place like Mary's is that you can still have a good experience from start to finish, even if the food isn't the best BBQ you've ever had. For instance, I had a lot of fun talking to the man who made my sandwich (he let me try the mild sauce -- dipped a toothpick in it -- before he put it on the sandwich because he knew the mild would probably be too hot for me. He was right, so I had the sauce on the side). I think there is still a place for these old fashioned Q experiences. If nothing else, let them remind us of the humble, tasty roots from which our modern cuisine comes plated with homemade heirloom small batch pickles and some fancy BBQ sauce that you can buy in a bottle at the register for more than your whole lunch at Mary's. Maybe these kinds of places can learn something from one another.

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Brick Pig’s House, Oakland, California (8.16.16)

Our final stop of the day was at Brick Pig’s House. The entryway window had porcine tchochkes similar to, but less in number, Miss Myra’s—not a bad sign. Neither were we forewarned by the friendly banter of the cashier or the greeting by the chef when the brisket was brought to the table. Indeed, UAB’s presence among the tickets recognizing college graduates boded well. But, that’s where the good vibes stopped. We knew something was up from the moment the Brick Pig acknowledged that, despite the promise of their name, they didn’t sell pulled pork.

Spongy, tasteless, waterlogged: this was the worst brisket we’ve had any side of the Mississippi. I don’t know the mechanics that produced such boiled meat, but it wasn’t right. Mark: “I omit comment.” The sauce, too, tasted only like apple cider vinegar with ketchup. A bummer to end the progressive lunch, but hey, it had to happen sometime. Didn’t it? Let’s hope it was an off-day.

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Smoke Berkeley, Berkeley, California (8.16.16)

Phase two of lunch took us to Smoke Berkeley (after an unsuccessful attempt to try Uncle Willie’s BBQ and Fish in Oakland, still not open for lunch at 11:30). Smoke, recently opened, targets the hipster foodie crowd (sc. “Gourmet Street Food,” “Gourmet BarBQ”). I dig the monosyllabic name, the decor (yellowed paper flyers tacked on the wall, aged prematurely by the eponymous ‘smoke’) and diversity of offerings (pulled pork, brisket, ribs, chicken, tea smoked salmon [?]). For comparison with E&J, we got the brisket, as well as the ribs, collards and baked beans. Mark has a spot-on assessment: “1. Didn't like the texture on their brisket, thought it tasted a bit weak. 2. On the other hand, the ribs were incredible. Tender and multi layered in the way you mentioned. 3. The medium sauce was absolutely killer. A really nice complement. 4. Collared greens were nicely sour, not at all bland. 5. Loved the beans. Generous chunks of pork. 6. Dry corn bread as you said.” I’d only add that the brisket, which looked great (cf. smoke ring in pic above), tasted like hamburger. Not sure how that happened, but I think the seasoning needed work. Otherwise, not a bad place. The ribs were good, if not as ‘fall off the bone’ as KC’s down the street.

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Everett and Jones, Oakland, CA (8.16.16)

Today, we went on a progressive BBQ lunch (much like on 1.14.16). We both dug E&J, arriving early before the lunch crowd while the servers were still rolling silverware and setting the groundwork for the day. And the brisket was pretty good. Mark, enumerated: “1. Great atmosphere and service 2. The potato salad was right on, nicely tart. 3. Sauces were fine, not super special, but very serviceable 4. Solid meat. Good texture, with "push back".” I agree on all points, though I’d give the sauce a bit higher praise, as it balanced the sweet and spice as well as any else I’ve had in the Bay. Thankfully they didn’t over overdo the paprika or other spice-smoke to compensate for actual smoke, which, while not plentiful, was present enough for a (thin) slice of brisket. Maybe too thin, and a bit undercooked or chewy in an un-rendered kind of way. That being said, the restaurant is a cornerstone of East Bay BBQ, and I can see why.

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Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q, Birmingham-Shuttlesworth International Airport, Birmingham, AL (5.29.16)

Why write about BBQ found in an airport? Two reasons: Birmingham airport has good food (i.e. Chick-fil-a), and Jim ‘N Nick’s is good almost always anywhere. Note the wood pile in the window, the slick decor, view of the runway and the rolling central Alabama hills. Though maybe not as cheap as their locationselsewhere, the barbecue, beans and collard greens were everything you’d ask for. Solid, even in an airport.

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Dimitri’s BBQ, Homewood, AL (5.27.16)

Lodged in the heart of downtown Homewood (DH) is Dimitri’s BBQ. I remember it best for its ‘working man’s lunch’ circa 2006 while the new town hall was being built across the street, a time when you could get a pulled pork sandwich, fries and a sweet tea for $5 even. It’s still not that pricey, and the sauce still has that same sweet tang. The bun could’ve been softer at first. That’s not a problem though, and this is still a place with a dependable pulled pork sandwich and full of locals as it has been for the past 50 years. Also worth noting, it’s likely among the venerable BBQ joints started in the South by Greek-Americans (cf. Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous in Memphis). While not as flashy as the new ones (e.g. Saws), it’s an old school place worth trying.

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Watch our video from the factory

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Grills from Greece!

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They fed the civil rights movement. Now are black-owned barbecue joints dying?

SMOKE SIGNALS | A trip through the South explores the African American ties to a beloved traditional cuisine.

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[Beyond] Dreamland Bar-B-Que, Birmingham, Alabama (1.14.16)

Progressive BBQ lunch part 3: After pulled pork and chicken, it was time to finish off lunch with the extra rich ribs and banana pudding from our old neighbor favorite, Dreamland. This was a homecoming, and they did not disappoint. Pure ribs in their tangy sauce, white bread for dipping, cold beer and the best of deserts fueled great conversation as if it were ten years before. Always reliable, Dreamland still fumigates the neighbor with its smoke on a daily basis. I’ll always miss it. 

Rob: “This was the first progressive BBQ lunch I have ever been a part of. The best part of an effort like this is the opportunity to eat all the different Q that you normally have to choose between at lunch time. Also, like at a wine tasting, it's easier to compare different Q's when side by side. And it's better than if someone simply brought you a sampling of food from different places, because environment is such a big part of a BBQ restaurant. If you set out on your own ProgQ lunch, I recommend doing it with the best people you can find.”

Kyle: “I'm mostly confused as to why this progressive eating hasn't played a more central role in our collective experience with Birmingham as a city and Birmingham as a destination. I recently explained to a friend, on the eve of this jaunt, that Birmingham is the best food-city that I have ever been to. Better than Paris and heads above New York or whatever other over-rated city one might want to put on this list. It's the best food, per capita, in the world. Deal with it.

So why haven't we dedicated ourselves more holistically to this truth? Proximity, probably, is the answer. It was just what we did -- we ate Birmingham food cause it was always around; much of it within walking distance. Dreamland was hood and neighbor.

I was struck by how comfortable it was to sit in the gentrified and totally new Birmingham just as it was homey to descend on Dreamland. McDonald's, the franchise, is closing locations around the country. Saw's is expanding. Are we getting better at eating, as a nation? I hope so and I think so. That's comforting and progressive (in the sense that true progress doesn't forget where one came from); just like the grits at Saw's.”

On the drive past Sloss Furnace (pictured above), I knew I had to leave but hated to go. Hopefully the bay will keep upping its BBQ game--there’s still more to be done.

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[Beyond] Miss Myra’s Pit Bar-B-Q, Birmingham, Alabama (1.14.16)

Progressive BBQ lunch part 2: I’ve wanted to do an entry on Miss Myra’s for a while now. Famous for its BBQ chicken and Alabama white sauce, it’s easily one of the most lauded of B’ham BBQ restaurants. Not without reason. The chicken is tender, keeping its moister while picking up rich smoke. In the tangy white sauce, this was hard to stop eating. Phenomenal stuff. But with one more stop to go, we left the place to its other patrons, including the editor of Southern Living magazine (pictured above in line).

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[Beyond] Saw’s Soul Kitchen, Birmingham, Alabama (1.14.16)

Progressive BBQ lunch part 1: It was about one year ago to the day that I first ate at one of Saw’s locations in Birmingham. This time around, I’m with Kyle and Rob, and we have the same dish: a bed of grits with greens, pulled pork and crispy onion rings. Not sure why, but this time was better. Maybe it was the sun and the lower 80s on a January afternoon. Maybe it was the location, urban and revitalizing. Maybe it was the soul music blasting out into the street, the Stylistics “Let’s Put it all Together” acting as recipe for the hearty food before us. Whatever it was, the food was excellent and the start of an ideal day.

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[Beyond] King’s BBQ, Baytown, TX (1.12.16)

Texas is the home to brisket BBQ and for good reason. It’s a staple. You can call it brisket or you can call it beef. RD took us to King’s, one of Baytown’s best, perhaps taking the crown from Going’s which may have fallen on hard times. The food was excellent and cheap, a four meat combo for only $11.99. This is important information: BBQ can be delicious, reliable AND cheap. The bay area should learn this (high rent prices aside...). Regardless, King’s has solid ‘cue, great baked beans, and sweet sweet tea!

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[Beyond] Bobby Q, Phoenix, AZ (1.10.16)

Edan has officially left the Bay, moving his stuff back to NY before hitting the road. While driving east, we hit up this BBQ spot in Phoenix, AZ. Not only was the Q delicious, the place was full of Alabama and Clemson football fans congregating before the national championship the following day (see photobombs above). The meat was smokey and tender, the cornbread moist, and free, hot donuts on the way out! Great stuff and perfect stop on a road trip.

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Baby Blues BBQ, San Francisco, CA (12/30/15)

On the way to another stellar performance by these guys (pictured above), Brian and I stopped by Baby Blues BBQ in Bernal Heights for some cue. It was my second time visiting (previously happening on it on the road to El Rio), but first since the birth of the blog.

Brian: “The ribs are the best.” Stephen: “Agreed. What’s the hierarchy?” Brian: “Ribs first, brisket, then pulled pork.” Good call. The ribs were tender, really tender (something Armadillo Willies could learn from, says Brian); the brisket was extra smokey (and sitting in juice, for better or worse); but the pulled pork was tasteless (similar to the chuck at Blue Rock). The potato salad was good and plentiful, though, and above all (next to the ribs) the banana pudding was MIND BLOWING!

BBBBQ makes a good pitstop for ribs and pudding. That’s enough to keep it around.

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[Beyond] Pitt Cue Co., London, England (12/17/15)

On a family trip to London for the holidays, we made it a point to visit Pitt Cue Co in old Soho. I’d had BBQ in Blighty before at the Red Dog Saloon in Hoxton a few years back, but Pitt has opened more recently to warm reviews and prompted a visit.

For three and a half native Texans in London, the food was a familiar and welcomed taste of the South. Terry: “The food was exceptional;” Dad: “the food was really good!” Among our orders was the pulled pork with a vinegar based slaw, caramel ribs, and Mangalitza pork shoulder. A crowd favorite: the rich bone marrow mashed potatoes with gravy and the grilled sourdough and dripping app. The pork shoulder, though not smoked (and thus in my book, not BBQ), was fantastic, tender and smooth. The pulled pork didn’t quite have the smoke rings and was a bit too wet (having been seasoned and dressed post-smoking), but was tasty nevertheless. However, a Texan take on pulled pork: “The pulled pork was good too,” says Terry, “but it's not really BBQ. Brisket is real BBQ. I'd call what we had British BBQ; BBQ of the North Sea; Royal BBQ.” Also, the place is small, which can be charming to some but more cramped to others. Dad: “The music was too loud and it was a small space;” Terry: “the atmosphere was kinda loud and cramped, but the service was good.” That said, it’s hip atmosphere fits in with the neighborhood, and the lines are out the door (with hours to wait, no reservations).

Apparently brisket is sometimes on their menu; it may be worth a trip if you find yourself on a extended Heathrow layover.