bevel etiquette

our definitive guide to male grooming // bev·el [bev-uhl] - the inclination that one line or surface makes w/ another when not at right angles. Follow @bevel !function(d,s,id){var js,fjs=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],p=/^http:/.test(d.location)?'http':'https';if(!d.getElementById(id)){js=d.createElement(s);js.id=id;js.src=p+'://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js';fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js,fjs);}}(document, 'script', 'twitter-wjs');

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How to clean your clippers

  Most of us own a pair of clippers, whether it’s for our facial hair, a quick line up, or anything else.  It’s important to keep these clean since a nasty pair of clippers on your face just isn’t a good look.  Proper maintenance and cleaning of your clippers will also make sure they last, which means spending less money buying new ones.

Remove the blades

  You’ll want to remove the two screws on top of the clippers that hold the head plate down using a phillips screwdriver.  Afterward with your fingers remove the head and/or blades from the clippers and separate them.

  Removing the hair

  Take a thick brush and quick brush off all of the visible hair on the head plate and inside the top of the clipper.  There should be a small square hole where most of the hair has bunched together.  Clean all of that out.  Next place the blades and head in warm water for a few minutes; this allows the smaller hairs that are more difficult to remove to loosen.

  Place a little bit of blade cleaning solution, like Oster Blade Wash, on a tooth brush and brush the head and blade until they are completely clean.  Pro tip: if you do not have blade cleaning solution a mixture of half water and half white vinegar will work as well.

  Dry the head and blade off with a towel and let them air dry for a few minutes.

  Oil the blade

  Make sure the head and blade are definitely dry then reassemble them with the clippers.  Point the clippers downward with the flat of the head facing away from you.  With the clippers turned on, put a few drops of hair clipper oil across the top of the blades; do not add too much oil.  Unfortunately there’s not really a substitute for clipper oil since it’s a light machine oil; luckily it’s cheap anyway.  You also want to avoid any oil dropping back into the clippers. 

  Once you are done you will have a perfectly clean and well maintained set of clippers.  Ideally this should be done after each use of the clippers though you can get away with a little less than that.

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Bevel Sounds -  Take a listen to great reggae vibes from the Canadian duo Majid Jordan

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How often should men wash their hair?

It’s pretty obvious to most people that black men’s hair is different, both in look and feel.  It should then come as no surprise that our hair care should be different as well.  Let’s take a look at the reasons.

It’s Dry

  We’ve all heard that black hair in general is dryer than other hair, but why?  This is mostly because of the curls in our hair.  The natural oils that are in everyone’s scalps travel down straight hair much more easily than curly hair.  This alone makes black hair more dry and subject to breakage/loss.  The natural oil just doesn’t get to most of our hair. 

  There’s nothing that can be done about this since the curliness of our hair is determined by the bulb shape of the hair follicle, which is determined genetically.  Hooked bulbs cause curly hair, round bulbs cause straight hair. 

  Washing

  Due to the unique nature of black hair, we men must be more conscious about the drying effects of most shampoos.  Shampoos tend to contain chemicals that strip the existing oils off of your hair, which may be fine for straight hair, but can be overly damaging to curly hair, which doesn’t replace the oils as easily. 

  While you’ll need to take into account how curly your hair is, generally washing 1 – 2 times a week achieves the desired cleaning effect without overly drying out our hair.  It is also ok to condition hair daily.

  With this knowledge and these tips you should be set to get the look you want without any troubles.

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Bevel Etiquette // Chris Bermudez 005

This week in Bevel Etiquette we highlight another Chris, but we venture back to the east coast. We head to the cold city of New York City to highlight who I like to call the ultimate creative hustler: our friend, Chris Bermudez. Chris is the man with no particular title, but can do it all.

We became friends over the fact that we're both from the same area in the Bronx, and we're colleagues in the same industry. Chris' look has always revolved around his great beard. While others are shaving off their beards for Movember, Chris continues on his pursuit of maintaining his.

"How would you describe your morning routine? "

[Chris B.] Well considering the fact I get my days going on the early side every morning here in NYC, I've got a compact routine timed down to a tee (excluding those, "I had a rough morning..." days). From the start, where I'm working on maintaining my pearly whites, to the end of the routine where I'm combing my beard right before I make my exit out the door. My morning routine may very well be one of the most vital parts of my day as it sets the tone for the rest of the day to come. 

"How does your style reflect the way you groom yourself usually?"

[Chris B] I feel my personal style and grooming go hand in hand. I'm not much of the 'clean shaven' type, but rather, over the past 5 years or so I've resorted to a much more natural look, allowing my beard to take it's course while maintaining it. My personal fashion style usually reflects the way I'm feeling. I think, living in this city, you've got to be able to have a versatile sense of style, something that can cater to all situations and be able to handle various settings. I feel I'm almost able to get the best of both worlds if I allow my beard to grow freely while still being able to visit my barber weekly to shape it up and give it it's distinct look. 

"When was your first experience with facial hair, and how did you embrace it?"

[Chris B.] "Ironically enough, my initial experience with facial hair wasn't what you may think, considering my facial hair now. Though I was a fan of it, by the time I started seeing facial hair, I was forced to shave because of my workplace. I find it ironic that because I wasn't allowed to naturally grow my beard in it's early stages, and began shaving early on, it inevitably resulted in my current,  full and rapid growing beard. The more I shave, the faster it grows, and the cycle continues.  

"Has your barber ever messed up your haircut, or beard? ha" 

[Chris B] "Funny thing is, if you were to ask my closer friends, they'd tell you I don't have a 'good' hairline to begin with, haha. But I think it's happened to the best of us, man.  I'll never forget the day before one of my high school picture days, I learned the true importance of staying consistent with your choice of barber. I steered wrong one day and unfortunately, so did that barber. Hopefully, I don't become famous enough one day, where someone actually takes the time and effort to expose that class photo. Until that day, I'll keep the laughs and jokes of that bad hair experience between my high school book and my classmates of that year."

"To me you're like the ultimate entrepreneur hustler, how would you describe what you do to someone?" 

[Chris B.] "I'm not quite sure there's one word that can fully describe all that I do. What I do is something that some have recognized as an art form most comparable to an architectural designer's; only my efforts are exuded through various artistic mediums.  I've structured a one of a kind PR company, (Common Ground NY, a New York City based lifestyle public relations firm) which takes a unique representative's stance: to connect people with brands and artistic ventures for the betterment of communal interests.

I am a born and bred New Yorker and I often emphasize this especially considering this city is arguably the center of everything that eventually becomes mainstream. I know that my distinct first hand perspective coming from this city gives me an edge over people who may be in my field but don't have the same ties that I do to certain figures in the game. I feel my contributions to the menswear field and the music world have been as successful as they have been because of my genuine affiliations with these influencers.

I push the intangibles, I influence the influencers, I level the playing field. Though sometimes overlooked, without the services and spark that I and others like myself provide, a lot of the cultural trends and occurrences either would never take place, or would simply in a different manner." 

"What are some common problems you used to encounter? or still do concerning shaving etc"

[Chris B.] "Given the texture of my hair, I've been lucky enough to not have faced some of the more common troubles of shaving such as razor bumps, nicks and accidental cuts. Having played both sides of the shaving field, I can attest to the fact that when shaving, making sure your skin is moisturized may be one of the more important natural and controllable aspects. This will allow your blade of choice to move across the surface of your skin as fluently as possible. I'd also always be sure to first, go with the grain, then against it. I think there has been a boom of awareness in men's grooming and hair care in the past decade. Do your research, know your skin and know your hair. Like paper cuts, though small and almost unnoticeable, nicks and cuts from shaving can be the most painful and annoying. Avoid at all cost!"

"Do you prefer clean shaven, beard or goatee? If so why? "

[Chris B.] "Going back to my personal style being based usually on how I'm feeling during that day or period in my life, I find an appreciation, time and place for different facial hair looks. Preferably, I'd  choose to sport a natural beard or the good 5 o'clock shadow. Those looks are the most comfortable to my liking. I've never been a fan of the goatee. That look reminds me of the 1990's wrestling star Buff 'The Stuff' Bagwell and I'd much rather not have that thought relevant to my look, haha. It's either go hard or go home for me, all the way clean shaven for those necessary occasions or the bearded look for the rest of my days." 

Thanks a lot Chris, keep up the great work.

Words by Joshua Kissi

Images by Travis Gumbs

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"You’re going on a nice brunch date with a female friend, do you wear Jordan’s or grab the wingtips?" [Joekenneth] That calls for the wingtips.

More from our interview with Joekenneth Museau here

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The FADE: A Clean Cut Documentary

Big Bright Films debut their feature length documentary "The Fade." The distinctive film presents an exclusive window into the lives of 4 barbers, including Johnny "Cakes" Castellanos, responsible for the images of two of hip-hop's icons, Jay Z and Pharel Williams. The observational film seamlessly transports us to and from Accra, London, New Jersey and Kingston submitting to its inhibited narrative and paralleling common themes of identity, business, masculinity and culture. Directed by Andy Mundy-Castle, Assistant Producer on Channel 4's multi-award winning documentary Giving up the Weed and Producer on the multi-award winning film David is Dying, Executive Producer Christopher Hird whose work includes The Flaw and The End of the Line, Cinematography by Tom Swindell responsible for the BAFTA award winning series One Born Every Minute and Director of Photography on My Kidnapper

Check it out

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 Bevel Sounds - New sounds from the barbershop we heard over the weekend from British dou Jungle, with their single "Lucky I Got What I Want"

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Bevel Etiquette // Chris James 004 [Movember Edition]

This week we venture out to the West Coast, to highlight and feature Chris James, a client relationship manager at WePow in San Francisco.  We'll be taking a look at his progression through Movember and the importance of the mustache toting month.

I write this feature with a bit of admiration and envy because of my own lack of a full beard or opportunity to participate in Movember.  One day, I'll be able to participate in this Movember movement... that is, whenever my genes catch up to me. Until then we can take a look at Chris' and his month long commitment.

What exactly is Movember?

As an official global charity, Movember’s vision is to have an everlasting impact on men’s health. During November each year, Movember is responsible for the sprouting of millions of moustaches on men's faces around the world. Through the power of the Mo, vital funds and awareness are raised to combat prostate and testicular cancer and mental health challenges.

Tell me about your overall style

[Chris] "My daily style is very comfortable. I like to dress comfortably and still look decent. Theres a fine line there. A nice comfortable T-shirt, a good pair of good fitting jeans (which makes a big difference), nice shoes. As long as I'm comfortable, I’m good. I’m big on my jeans fitting right. Even if  you’re wearing jeans, if they fit right, they feel good, it projects confidence….and women notice."

    Whats the difference between your routine before the cut and now?

[Chris] "I have to say thank you for putting me on to the safety razor. It was so easy to use…I was comfortable with it before I even finished. My first time. My routine will def be to make sure I stay clean shaven.

  Before this cut, I just used clippers. Actually, when I had the beard, I would maintain it by just taking off the excess with the Andis T outliner. For a while I did use Magic Shave, but you had to deal with the preparation and the smell wasn’t the best (haha!). Way too much prep work.

  The beard requires a lot of upkeep. People don’t realize it takes work. From when you wake up, until you go to bed. The way my facial hair grows, I have to take care of it, making sure it’s conditioned and healthy. If I just let it go, it'll get pretty wild. It takes a lot of upkeep. The new routine is way better and definitely looking forward to changing things up."

  Do you prefer clean shaven or beard?

[Chris] "I haven’t felt this way in a while (haha!).  I would prefer clean shaven. No grays, you look younger, gives a chance for people to see the real you"

  How do you feel about the shaving ritual?

[Chris] "I was thoroughly impressed. Thoroughly impressed. I was a little nervous but at the end of the day, I don’t feel like it was a hassle at all. It’s what we need to do as men, anyway. Especially with the feel, the weight of the razor, it felt really good. I was able to pick it up really quickly. I don’t feel like its going to be a burden at all"

  Why is Movember important to you?

  [Chris] "Movember is actually very important to me. For a while, my dad thought he had prosate cancer, but it turned out he didn't. That opened my eyes to the movement. I participated during last year's Movember with a previous employer and now this year, with my company, we have our own team and everyones on board. Everyone has shaved. I’m actually the last one (haha!). But men’s health, it’s important to know the risks and to bring attention to those risks."

Lastly, the most important question of all -- Between Freeway or Rick Ross which beard would you prefer to don? 

[Chris] "Ross, hands down.  That Philadelphia Freeway look isn't my speed (no shots fired Free).  I think a well kept beard says a lot about a man's attention to detail.  It's a commitment to your personal brand, there is nothing wrong with working on everyday."

Thank you Chris.

Words by Joshua Kissi

Photography by Thomas Wood - http://modernwood.tumblr.com/

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Aloe based shaving cream for men

We cosign aloe based shave creams. If you've been reading some of our posts, you'll know the type of razor you use makes a real difference to the quality of your shave, but the choice of shaving cream can be just as important. For the dudes who suffer from skin irritation as a result of shaving, then you have to use an aloe based shaving cream. The benefits are real. 

The Benefits of Aloe Vera

Aloe vera has long been valued as a plant with great medicinal purpose. The sap of the aloe vera plant contains nutrients that promote skin healing and regeneration. This gel-like substance is also a fantastic natural skin moisturizer, as it locks moisture into the skin, leaving it soft, smooth and well hydrated.

Why Use an Aloe-Based Shaving Cream

Aloe vera sap can be used to make shaving creams that are ideal for men with sensitive skin. You can expect to experience the following benefits when you start shaving with an aloe-based shaving cream.

Fewer cuts, nicks and irritation: aloe is a natural lubricant that helps the razor to glide smoothly over the skin without causing irritation.

Better hydrated skin: aloe is a highly effective moisturizer that protects skin from drying out.

No razor bumps: when used with a double edge safety razor, aloe shaving cream can prevent the ingrown hairs that give rise to razor bumps by ensuring that the razor does not cut the hair beneath the skin.

Less redness and inflammation: soothing aloe is a natural anti-inflammatory substance, which means that it will act quickly to bring down redness and swelling.

Aloe shaving cream forms a protective barrier between your skin and the blade of the razor, allowing you to easily shave away facial hair without tugging or scratching at the skin. It is a good choice for men who are prone to razor bumps, dryness, or other forms of shaving-related skin irritation.

Using an Aloe-Based Shaving Cream

Men should apply an aloe-based shaving cream after wetting their face with warm water to open the pores. Using a double edge safety razor, take long, gentle strokes in the direction of hair growth. You should notice a clear improvement in the glide of the razor across the skin when using an aloe-based shaving cream.

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Bevel Etiquette // Joekenneth Museau 003

This week for our Bevel Etiquette series we tap into our good friend and writer Joekenneth Museau, with the recent release of his first book "Tales of A Troubled Romantic" Kenny (as we call him) sat down with us to give us insight to his style and grooming routine. As friends ironically enough we don't get to talk about such topics, so even for us this feature is a bit of a enlightening conversation between friends. 

To give you some minor background on Joekenneth, he's our honorary 3rd member of Street Etiquette if that was possible ha, well not really but he has been involved in all of our creative editorials through his art of words. It was a total pleasure to sit down with the wordsmith and feature him for this Bevel Etiquette feature.

Why is style and grooming most important to you?

[Joekenneth] "Both elements are indications of my character and who I am as a person. It is important for me to present myself to the public in a way that reflects my self-esteem, personality and my values. I like to be well-arranged in what I wear therefore it is necessary that my face is as smooth as my steez. Haha!"

Have you ever tried to grow a beard?

[Joekenneth] "No. Never. It wasn’t considered appropriate in my household. There were times where I didn’t shave for like a week or two and my face would just get really itchy. I couldn’t grow a beard if I wanted to seeing how uncomfortable it is to let my facial hair grow."

What’s your grooming routine?

[Joekenneth] "I shave whenever I think there’s too much hair on my face. That may be twice a week. I don’t keep count. I soak my face with hot water, apply shaving cream then use a 3-blade razor. However, given that I've been following the recent Bevel posts, I may reconsider my shaving apparatus. Aside from my face, I get my hair cut once a month and visit the barber shop for a line-up every two weeks."

"How do you choose between a formal look or street casual look for the day?" [Joekenneth] "My choice for a look of the day is based on emotion, weather and agenda. If I have an occasion to attend, I lean toward a more sartorial perspective. I'm not the type of guy to run errands in a blazer and hard bottoms shoes. I'm entirely "cozy boy"; slim sweats and Jordans for post office runs and whatever else may be on my to do list during a day off from work. At other times, if the sun is shining on a brisk day in autumn and I feel like going out for a chai latte, I'll throw on my tweed waistcoat just 'cuz I feel like it. Cc: Fabolous"

"You're going on a nice brunch date with a female friend, do you wear Jordan's or grab the wingtips?" [Joekenneth] That calls for the wingtips. I'll be going on the date with a certain expectation as to how she'll be dressed; casually elegant, adorned with something that accentuates her silhouette but leaves enough mystery for onlookers. I'd pair the wingtips with dark denim, a tailored trouser and an open collar button-down shirt but not going as far as wearing a full suit. It's only brunch but I deem it chivalrous on my end to complement her flyness. There are too many good looking women out here going on dates with guys who are dressed like they slept in the clothes that they have on.

Thanks JK!

Words by Joshua Kissi

Photography by Travis Gumbs 

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"Inside the shop : Angola, Equatorial Guinea, South Africa"

Having the pleasure to travel around the globe has been a total experience and a testament to our similarities to people all across the globe despite physical distance. I wanted to start a series within Bevel Etiquette titled "Inside the shop" that would piggyback on Travis' and my travels but also on the information you receive on BE.

We've traveled to Angola, Equatorial Guinea and most recently South Africa, each country had a similar artistic aesthetic to their barbershops with hand painted signs  , which could all have their own art exhibit back here in the states -- and  barber hair style selection charts. The hairstyle charts has to be one of the most influential pieces of information in the barbershop. When I was younger I always wanted the #5 select which pictured a guy with a clean fade and I would bug my dad to let me have a fade, after so many years of getting a caesar.

  Our experiences on the continent of Africa  : stepping into barber shops with images of anyone from Ludacris, Nelly to very our president Barack Obama,  stating "you too can receive a haircut clean enough to become the president of the United States -- or settle to be everyone's favorite rapper. The next time you head into your local barbershop in Brooklyn, just keep in mind there's another barbershop just like it somewhere in a country like Angola.

Words by Joshua Kissi of Street Etiquette

Images by Street Etiquette & Andrew Esiebo

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Bevel Etiquette // A preview of what's to come from the Street Etiquette fellas on their coverage of barbershops in Africa in particular South Africa & Angola // Stay tuned for the feature tomorrow 

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new sound we heard in the barbershop this past weekend. who else is up on Sampha?

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check out our bevel induced inspiration here: Bevel’s Inspiration

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"A barbershop is like a communal bonding ground between you and other guys waiting for their haircut, or just sitting around just to talk ! We would discuss things like politics, sports, relationships, current news and community issues from time to time. So, my reasoning for going to the barbershop is to bond with my boys and to get the latest happenings. Shaving on the other hand is something that is much more intimate and personal."

More from Jerry

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"Each second you have the choice to make decisions that will get you closer to your journey, or farther from it. 86,400 seconds in a day."

#beveletiquette //