My Bhutan Adventure

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A video from my Bhutan adventure!

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Bhutan Oct 17 Day 10

My day to depart finally arrives. I leave for the airport early at 5:15 am. I have tears in my eyes as I head towards the airport. This surprised me as I have travelled to many places and have been touched by beauty in many places. But the tears in my eyes was from the experience of beauty and being received so unconditionally by the people in Bhutan. It is said that after one goes to Bhutan, any other place pales in comparison. I have to say that, that was probably what my heart felt.

I see more sights of beautiful mountains as the plane takes off from Bhutan.

7 hours later, I arrive at Changi International Airport, Singapore. After collecting my bags from the belt, I walked with purpose and speed (in a typical Singaporean way) towards my driver, who was waiting to pick me up. My girls had come to the airport to surprise me and we completely missed each other. Thankfully we were on WhatsApp and I was able to turn back to pick my girls up.

Its good to be back home with my girls. I love Bhutan and I love home too.

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Bhutan Oct 16 Day 9

Trek up to Tiger’s Nest Monastery

This is a must for any visitor to Bhutan. I felt the trek would be easy, after having completed the Druk path. The night before, I had also gone for a nice massage and yoga. I was ready. It was a good trek up, as we got close to the monastery, we had to climb down and up a total of 700 steps. It was a bit challenging but I made my way steadily without any trouble.

Jigme and I take it easy on the trek, with time for selfies. 😊 I was very pleased too when he candidly mentioned that he could see the improvement in my trek and breathing, over the past days. That was a real compliment in my view!

All thanks to my 3.5 days of what I considered ‘baptism by fire’ on the Druk path for an amateur and first time mountain trekker such as me! The Tiger’s Nest monastery up close.

And to end off a great day and a great trip in Bhutan, I get a piggy back downhill. This was the pact when I completed the Druk path, that I would get a piggy back at Tiger’s Nest!!!!

Jigme and I have become good friends over the 9 days. A friendship which was yet to be before Bhutan, and now, will be deeply cherished. 😊 I realised that when you are on a solo trek and in another country, you trust your guide with your life on the mountains. At least that was the case for me. Jigme showed friendship, care and concern. He took care of the small and big things when we were trekking and camping out. He was also witty and fun and the days flew past on the trip, with the two of us chatting, laughing and sometimes just enjoying the silence together. And I quickly grew to trust him by his actions. Tiger’s Nest was a wonderful and happy end to a wonderful time in Bhutan. What a beautiful country and the beauty and kindness of the Bhutanese really touched me and warmed my heart. When I decided in April to make a trip to Bhutan in Oct, my main objective was to trek and to stretch myself physically, doing something I’ve never tried before. What I received in Bhutan was so much more. Tomorrow, I will return home. And I will always have wonderful memories of Bhutan. I have found beauty in nature, peace within myself, personal achievement, and friendships to be cherished as a result. 😊

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Bhutan Oct 15 Day 8

Today is shopping day. I wanted to get a Bhutanese tea pot to add to my collection. We try a few shops and after checking out a few places, I decided on a lovely tea pot which has the 8 auspicious Bhutanese symbols, also prayer verse on it. It is handmade and richly endowed with turquoise, coral, jet from Bhutan and amber from Tibet. I was so happy to find this gem after looking into 5-6 handicraft stores. Not bad at all! 

I had an early lunch and then check in to Uma Resort, a forest resort in Paro. This will be my last stop before I return home. I get a room with a beautiful valley view.

 I've booked a massage and will take it easy. Will be trekking at Tiger's Nest tomorrow. 😊 I start to miss the mountains and the past days. It was such an experience for me that thoughts kept floating back to my time on the Druk path!

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Bhutan Oct 14 Day 7

Day 4 of trek It’s a wet morning. I’m all packed and await Raj to pick us up. Jigme jokes that Raj is not coming and we will have to walk 5 hours to Paro. Let’s see if it’s true or a joke!!! I can’t wait to get a proper shower and have fresh clothes on. Raj arrives at 9.20 am and his appearance seemed to have coincided with the sunshine. 😊

 I bade my farewell to Karma, Gomchen and Dechen who will also pack up and head their separate ways. Dechen and Karma to Paro, and Gomchen, back to Thimpu with the horses. On our way down from the mountain, our car gets stopped as we await the queen who is on her way to Tseluna to inaugurate a rehabilitation centre currently being built. Earlier, Jigme introduced me to the term BST - Bhutan Stretch Time. I asked for how long We would have to wait for the queen’s entourage, and was advised that it is BST! I don’t mind waiting. How many times does one get to see the queen of Bhutan in one’s lifetime. Once back in Paro, we chance upon an archery competition in the city of Paro and decide to stop and watch.

 After lunch, there were more chances to practice patience as our car stops along the road for road construction and widening. We finally arrive at Tashi Namgay Resort which is situated along the Paro river. Finally, the shower I’ve been looking forward to!👏 

 Went to experience night life in Paro. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Drinks, music, dance and friendship. I really cannot ask for more.

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Bhutan Oct 13 Day 6 (part 2)

Day 3 of trek As we trekked past Chelela pass, we see the holy site of Gururinpoche. 

Hand print of Gururinpoche

Rosary Bead and Wisdom Eye

Goldfish

My entourage of 7 horses, without which there will be no tent, food etc.

 A picture of a little girl from the yak herders family. 

 9 km

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Bhutan Oct 13 Day 6 (part 1)

Day 3 of trek

I slept better the night before, although the first hour of trying to keep warm and getting comfortable was difficult for me. I knew I was in a better place when it came to sleep, when I heard myself snore. Amen!😊 I wake up to another beautiful morning by the lake. A picture of Jana Tsho (Tsho means lake).

There is frost but it quickly melts away in the warm sunshine. Yesterday, Jigme and I discussed that we will take another route instead of heading to Jili Dzong as I was really struggling with the rocks yesterday and it would be an 6-8 hour trek up to Jili Dzong for a more experienced trekker. For me, it would likely mean that I will get to the camp site only after dark. So I decide on another route, descending to Tseluna, so I remain safe and not trek uphill at night. Today was downhill all the way. We descended 1200m from 3600m to 2400m where we set camp. Today’s descent was rocky, muddy, slippery all the way. We cross several bridges as there are streams and rapids. 

At one point, we had to cross a small rapid but there was no bridge. Jigme and Karma test the logs and decide it is too slippery for me to walk. So what was the next best thing? Karma proceeds to take off his shoes, rolls up his pants and piggy backs me across the rapid. It will be one of the memories of this trip to remember and treasure.

Safely across the river and on to a proper bridge. And without Jigme’s strong hand the whole way through today, supporting me as I trudged through mud and stones, I would probably still be stuck up in the mountains somewhere. The last leg of the trek after lunch was flat ground through the village. However it continues to be rocky and full of pebbles and i really felt the strain on my feet as I trudged along. As it was flat ground, Jigme and I could talk and we exchanged laughs and little snippets of life. After 3 days trekking together, I start to see the cheeky side of Jigme. He is young and carefree and loves his job and it really showed, the tales he told of adventures across Bhutan and friends he has made, and in the way he supported me as we trekked together. He is a friend who trekked with me.

It starts to pour heavily about an hour before we reach the camp site. I’m amazed that God always introduces a challenge each day of my trek. Just when the path became easy today, He introduced heavy rain. We are drenched by the time we get to the camp site. It starts to pour heavily. I was told that the original path, Jili Dzong is raining heavily with strong winds and big hail stones. I would certainly have been stuck trekking in hail and high winds. I am so glad I changed my route. My trek comes to an end. I am totally drenched from the rain and it continues to pour for another 3 hours. Raj will pick Jigme and I up from the camp at Tseluna tomorrow morning. I’m looking forward to a nice shower when I get to the hotel. The thought of a nice shower the next day gets me through another night in the tent.

Picture of Dechen (cook), Karma (cook asst) and Gomchen (horse man) as we all take a break whilst the horses graze.

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Bhutan Oct 12 Day 5

Day 2 of trek I wake up to the sunrise at about 6 am. The rain has stopped and it is a beautiful morning. It’s a brand new day and I’m off to another steep climb after breakfast. The view in the morning is spectacular. Clouds below us, what a feeling!

I chat a little with the other campers who are on their descent into Thimpu. They are a group of 14 and one had to abandon trek due to altitude sickness. This reminds me to take it easy for myself. Do not rush. Start each day with a positive intent and take small steps to get to the top. 

My breakfast of egg, spam and toast. Who says this is hardship?😂 We set off on Day 2 of our trek. It’s a sunny day and along the path, we met groups who were descending to Padjoding and back to Thimpu.

I’m told by an Australian group that the ground is covered with snow further up hill. Today’s climb will take me to the highest point of 4,090m. before descending. As we got close to 4,000m, I suddenly feel giddy and had a misstep, headed sideways towards the bush. 

Thankfully Jigme is always observant and catches me before I fall off the ledge. I started feeling giddy and nauseous, first signs of altitude sickness. I make several stops to catch my breath and steady myself and also to take chocolate to give my system a boost. I felt really sick and giddy but I wanted so much to be able to carry on. Jigme encourages me and we take small steps. At the peak. I take a rest with some tea and compose myself.

Once I steadied myself Jigme gets me to descend and as we walked I see the highest peak in Bhutan ahead of me.

 We walked a bit more and take another rest.to have lunch. From the distance I hear horses and then soon after, Amish and his guides appear. I had met Amish, a fellow trekker, on my first day in Bhutan, in Ha valley. And it seemed surreal to meet him again, this time at the peak of the Druk path trek, each going the opposite way. We take some pictures, shared some laughs and bade our goodbyes.

I was told I was very close to the camp ground but the last hour of m trek on day 2 was the worst. There were rocks and loose pebbles all the way downhill. At one point, I missed a step and landed on my bum, which was lucky.! No damage done as I picked myself up. I struggled and Jigme has to hold on to my hand for a major part to make sure I could get myself downhill. It was torturous. My legs were like lead and I was just dragging them along. If not for Jigme I would not have made it downhill. Not before sunset. It was a tortuous trek down to the camp site and Karna, the cook assistant, was really kind. He got me hot water for me to clean up and then there was hot tea and cakes waiting. I hope I get some sleep tonight. A very tiring day. But I’m glad I made it to camp just before the sun set. 9 km 

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Bhutan Oct 11 Day 4 (part 2)

Day 1 of trek The last part of trek up to Phadjoding from the monastery We stopped and rest and are very close to the top, where we will camp for the night. It was only 30 min more but was the most difficult 30 min of the whole trek on Day 1. It started to rain and then hail and I trekked slowly and painfully up the last stretch of a very steep incline. I need to make it, almost there… Pant pant pant… The rain was getting heavier and the hail beating down on me.

Jigme waits for me and encourages me, and tells me that we are only 5 min away. I finally saw sight of the tent and hurried into the tent to get away from the rain and get some hot drinks. I hope the rain stops soon. I finally made it through day 1 of the Druk Path.

It continues to rain. I take some of Jigme’s homemade brew called Ara, which is made of fermented wheat. It tastes almost like sake, and has a nice after taste. Hopefully it keeps me warm. Early dinner of mushroom soup, chicken n veg. I can’t complain. I’ve been making numerous trips to the toilet because of the cold. Thankfully there is a hot water bottle for me. Life saviour. I’ll try to sleep but it’s difficult with a group of 13 Trekkers who are also camping for the night. They are an excited bunch and talk non stop for 3 hrs since they got here. I expect a long night of cold, constant running to the toilet tent and happy trekkers chatting through the night. 5 km

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Bhutan Oct 11 Day 4 (part 1)

Day 1 of trek Today is an exciting day for me. I am starting my 3.5 day trek on the Druk Path. Something which I have been training to do. This is my first time trekking up a mountain and camping outdoors in freezing cold mountain temperature. I was not sure if I would actually make it on day 1, much less the entire trek.😱 

After a good breakfast, Jigme and Raj come to get me at the hotel. The car ride to the base of the mountain takes 20 min. Today, I will trek from Thimpu to Phajoding, which is 3,400 m from sea level. The entire trek will cover 5.7 km. I meet my entire entourage of horses, horse man, cook, and cook assistant.

 I'm as ready as I will ever be. Let's go!

It was a lovely sunny morning and we meet other trekkers along the way, coming from Paro. We stopped and chatted and wished each other well. I like the spirit of fellow trekkers.

There were rest stops and the cook assistant hands out drinks and tea. What a luxury. I trek slowly and steadily. As an amateur trekker, I probably stopped much more often than experienced ones. But I was on my own and I just wanted to finish it in my own time. No rush. As long as I get to camp before dark. 

We get to 3/4 way and I already felt I was on top of the world. 😊 I had a good lunch and it's time to press on. The last stretch going up to the Phadjoding monastery was hard work. But we finally made it.

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Bhutan Oct 10 Day 3 (part 2)

After some rest and lunch, Jigme brought me to Buddha point. This is a bronze statue, standing at 59 m tall, on top of the mountain. 

This is a statue of the present Buddha (I learn that in Buddhism there is past, present and future Buddha) and the statue at Buddha point took 10 yrs to build. Inside the building, beautiful paintings and statues can be found.

 Buddha of the future is compassion. 

 Me and statue with offering to Buddha. 

We visit another temple and after, I decided to head back to rest and have an early night. I need all the rest I can get before my Druk path trek! I am so excited and nervous at the same time.

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Bhutan Oct 10 Day 3 (part 1)

It was a rough night for me. I hardly slept. My back and neck are stiff from the climb and my muscles were too tight for me to rest and to sleep. Thankfully I brought my cricket ball which works well as a massage roller. That helped to ease me into sleep for a couple hours. I set my alarm for 5.45am so that I could attend morning prayers with the monks. A monk was to come to the guest house to get me at 6am but a bit of miscommunication...I waited patiently by the bench outside the guest house but no monk. 

In any case, I spent a quiet time just sitting out and watching the sky lighten up. It is so quiet. It is how I love to wake up, slowly, and to the sound of nature. 

Today I trek back down. I hope with yesterday’s practice, it will be easier. I hope I can make it on the 3.5 day Druk path trek which starts tomorrow. Feels a little overwhelming now. It’s a challenge and I will do it. Bit by bit. One step at a time. 

Dodedrak - built in 17th century. Monastery named after the monk who found treasure in the rocks and who built the monastery there. 

Tarai Gray Langur 

I made it downhill in 2 hrs!!! Yayyy! I’m so proud of myself. When I saw the car waiting at the base to take me down the rest of the mountain, it was the best present ever! 1 more hour in the car to get back to town. :-) 

Checked in to Bhutan Suites and it was like heaven. :-D 

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Bhutan Oct 9 Day 2 (part 2)

The trek to Dodedrak monastery. 

Only a quarter way through the trek up to the monastery...Totally out of breath! Pranita, the travel agent said I didn’t really have to train for my Bhutan trek. Wrong!!!! :-0 

We see a wild buffalo! :-D

At the top where the monks have their leisure, playing games and sports in the open field. I thought we were there. Nope!!! Only halfway but the trek is now easier as it is not as steep. Now, how am I going to get down the mountain tomorrow? I have NO idea :-0 

Made it! My first achievement in Bhutan! Yay! Pat on my back! :-) 

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Bhutan Oct 9 Day 2 (part 1)

Went for a morning walk today and was rewarded with beautiful misty mountains and animals grazing on the hills.

Ha is about 2,700m high.

Jigme told me in conversation, that the Indian military protects the border of Bhutan and China. And India and Bhutan enjoy a good relationship.

We happened to be in Ha during the annual Ha Mela festival. Again, quite fortunate. This is quite an event in Ha, celebrated over 4 days, and school is out for the children to enjoy the festival with family.

Saw sky diving from 6,000m drop, motorbike display and other military showcase.

After the show, we head off to Thimpu. It will take about 2.5 hours by car.

It was a VERY bumpy ride on the back mountain roads, from Ha to Thimpu. We used the back roads to avoid the road widening and constructions. Even though the ride was uncomfortable, I got to see Buthanese homes, farm animals and the beautiful expanse of mountains and juniper trees. I am amused that Jigme calls the cows ‘traffic police’ - they help to slow down the cars on the mountain roads by standing in the middle of the road or crossing slowly!

Finally arrived in Thimpu, the capital city of Bhutan. Definitely different from Ha. Main businesses and government buildings are found here. I have lunch at a beautiful little restaurant called Zasar and there is a business luncheon of about 20 people next to me. It was just me and them! A bit awkward for me...

The Bhutanese at the table are all in their formal wear of gho (male) and raki (female) for their business meeting.

After lunch, Jigme introduces me to the Main Street of Thimpu. While walking, I asked Jigme about salaries in Bhutan. The starting pay for a University grad is approximately $12k rupees. Personal income tax is 10-15% pa business income tax is 10% pa. Apartment rental is approximately $6k rupees.

A few interesting things that I learnt while walking and chatting:

Dzongkha is the official language in Bhutan and 

School lessons are conducted in English.  

Kaadincheyla - Thank you

Log Jay Gay - Goodbye 

Nga Cheu Lu Ga - I Love You

I also learnt some anecdotes about Jigme’s childhood. And he, mine.

At 4ish, we started our journey to trek to the monastery. My first experience of trekking in Bhutan! Tonight I will be staying at the Dodedrak monastery in North Thimpu. This is a Buddhist Institute. I trekked uphill for about 1.5 km and its not easy at all! I had to stop to catch my breath every 100m or so. I attribute it to altitude acclimatisation (excuse...). We started at about 2,700m. When I’m done, I’ve to check with Jigme just how high we climbed and the exact distance we covered (as it seems to me much higher and longer distance than he had indicated...!)

As we walk, he tells me that Day 1 of the Druk path trek which I will be going on will be all uphill. OMG!!! :-0

For now, I was just determined to not fail myself. Took Jigme and I 2.5 hours to trek up. The monks take 30 min! and without me, Jigme would have taken 45 min to get to the top!

It was 6.30 pm by the time we got to the monastery. We were welcomed to a little sitting hall in the guest house, where we had tea and some traditional Bhutanese rice puff (which is made of butter, sugar and rice crisps) and biscuits.

I then joined the monks for their Friday evening prayers. I was told that Friday prayers are more elaborate and lasts 3 hours. I stay for about 15 min to observe the chants. Some of the chants were happy ones as I observed the monks enjoying themselves and smiling and swaying as they chanted.

Dhung - Horn

I then had dinner cooked by the monks. I was grateful.

The night was too cold and too difficult for me to shower so I decide to forgo that for the night, even after sweating it out, trekking uphill...

The sitting room we had tea and biscuits is also the dining area. And when it was time for bed, it became my bedroom. How versatile!

Tomorrow, I will wake up early in the morning for prayers which starts at 6 am. Time for bed! :-) 

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Bhutan Oct 8 Day 1 (part 2)

We arrived at Ha. And I recognised the hotel immediately. It is the same one I see online!

I was brought to my room which has a beautiful view of the mountains from the balcony.

We proceeded to tea. I understand that this is the practice in Bhutan, to have tea and some biscuits.

I took a stroll around the compound after tea and before dinner. The air is fresh and the surroundings, quiet. Now I understand what ‘stillness’ means. Not a sound to be heard around me.

It has been a wonderful day. Tomorrow, I will trek to get to the monastery where I will stay for a night. I hope it won’t be too hard of a climb. Looking forward to the start of what I came to Bhutan to do. :-)

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Bhutan, Oct 8 2015 Day 1 (part 1)

Finally, Oct 8! The day I’ve been training for. I leave for Bhutan on my trek and adventure. I am excited and so ready to surrender to the beauty of Bhutan and just go with the flow.Left SG at 6 am. It was a quiet morning.

I checked in at 4.15 am, no fuss and waited quietly while reviewing my response to the leadership self reflection questions by Otto Schmar.

Now in transit on board, in Kolkata, waiting for about 30-40 min before heading to Bhutan. About 15 min to landing at Paro. When the plane flew past Mt Everest, there was so much excitement on the plane as everyone tried to get a glimpse and a picture of the majestic mountain.

Arrived at Paro and was welcomed to a beautiful traditional arrival hall. It is a small airport but organised and the immigration officers were polite.

Met Jigme, my guide, and Raj, my driver at the airport.

And proceeded to TNS restaurant for tea and biscuits. And then to the national museum where I learnt about masks used during the festivals, wall hangings from diff monasteries and also the wild life. Ta Dzong, the museum in the picture was damaged during the 2011 earthquake and is now under repair.

I love the peace and quietness and unrushed pace.

It has only been 2 hours tho. Let’s see!

We stopped for a picture as we sighted Jomolhari peak, the second highest mountain in Bhutan at 7,314m. On most days it is covered by clouds. I got so lucky!

Have just got to the Chelela pass separating Haa and Paro. The peak is 3,988 m.

We wait by the side of the narrow road on a hill while road paving is going on. This is surely my first experience of waiting for road construction to be completed before I can pass through the road! As Jigme says, in Bhutan you have to be patient due to the road works and it is a good chance to practise patience.