The curse of growth for luxury brands
Luxury brands are those supposed to be for few people who can afford them, and that is part of the reason why these segments choose them. Because they are exclusive, they are not available for everyone. There is a lot of psychology involved in why people buy products from expensive brands instead of buying equally good products for a lower price. People would go and buy the expensive Rolex from the shop rather than a copycat. They want to feel that sense of reward that doesn't come if you are not buying the original one (of course, there is still a market for the copies).
But luxury brands face a dichotomy on how good growth actually is. Of course, growth is great, profitability is what they are looking for, but then the challenge comes of being wanted by more people, by new segments, and maybe becoming not that exclusive anymore.
So luxury brands must be constantly thinking about how to maintain that equilibrium between selling more, but to the right people. Selling more, without killing the brand essence.
As it is well noted in this article by Jean-Noel Kapferer, the question is how to avoid becoming the extraordinary of the ordinary, but remaining the ordinary of the extraordinary.
It happens with many brands that we know are (supposedly) exclusive , but the first thing that comes to our mind when thinking about them is not necessarily luxury. When we find these brands in mass consumer markets such as Ross or Macys, what does our mind end up relating this brands with? In my head, is not luxury.
What happens when non-target customers start wearing your brand? What is the effect on you core-customers who see in you exclusivity, heritage, royalty?
Burberry faced this problem when it successfully expanded its brand to new segments, being able to remain true to its heritage, while at the same time considered a contemporary brand. It was able to attract youths, but faced a challenge when young, non-targeted customer starting wearing their brand. Burberry had to be careful not to alienate its core customers and to keep the brand perception.
As more people use it, and as more different people use it, more visible the brand becomes, which can be good, but more difficult it gets to keep that perception of exclusivity and to maintain brand credibility.









