In these two images, you can see how I expose the elastic by creating a small opening in the cotton lining.
Using a seam ripper, I make a controlled cut in the cotton layer, directly above the channel where the elastic runs. The goal is to open only the top layer, without touching the nylon outer fabric or the stitching.
In this photo, I lift the top elastic using the same method as before.
Once the opening in the cotton lining is large enough, I slide a large needle underneath the elastic and gently lift it upward. This separates the elastic from the inner layer and makes it fully visible.
This is the moment to check that you’ve reached the correct layer: the elastic should move freely and should not be caught in any stitching. Once it’s exposed, it can be cut and pulled out of the channel, just like with the previous tunnels.
Now that all old elastics have been removed, it’s important to inspect the entire waistband.
These two images show how I check both the inside and outside for broken or weakened stitches.
On the inside, the waistband uses a chain stitch, which can loosen when opening the tunnels or when the old elastic has put stress on the seams.
On the outside, there is a straight stitch, and this must also be completely intact before inserting new elastic. Once tension is applied, even a small break can cause the channel to tear further.
That’s why I check every tunnel, every seam, and every transition. If I find a missing stitch, I repair it by hand — just a few millimeters of reinforcement is enough to restore the structure.
Now that the tunnels are open and all old elastics have been removed, the new buttonholes need to be reinforced.
Because the outer layer of the waistband must not be stitched, I insert a small cardboard wedge between the layers. This prevents the needle from penetrating the nylon outer fabric.
I start with a straight stitch, about 3 mm from the cut, connecting the existing stitching to the next point. This forms the foundation of the buttonhole.
Then I sew the buttonhole stitch:
-Insert the needle into the cut
-Bring it up through the fabric just behind the straight stitch
-Keep the stitch fairly loose, so the fabric doesn’t pucker and the buttonhole stays flat
I repeat this process for both sides of the buttonhole and for both openings.
The result is a strong, cleanly finished buttonhole that can safely guide the new elastic without tearing.
This photo shows the reinforced buttonhole after both sides have been hand‑stitched. The straight stitch forms the foundation, while the buttonhole stitches prevent the edges from tearing once the new elastic is under tension.
Thanks to the cardboard wedge, the outer layer remains untouched, so nothing is visible from the outside. This is the finished buttonhole: strong, clean, and ready for threading the new elastic.
Here you can see the fully finished buttonhole in the waistband. The edges are neatly reinforced with hand‑sewn buttonhole stitches, and the outer layer of the shorts remains completely untouched.
The new opening blends seamlessly with the original stitching pattern and is strong enough to hold the new elastic for many years. The drawstring moves smoothly through the channel again, and the waistband is fully restored with no visible signs of the repair.
This is the final result: an invisible repair, but structurally stronger than the original.
• Seam ripper to open the waistband carefully
• Two large needles to guide the new elastic through the channels
• 3 mm elastic (for all three elastic channels)
• Fray Stop to stiffen the fabric slightly, allowing a clean, straight cut on the inside
• Small clips to hold the fabric in place
• Precision knife for detail work
• Strong thread and needle for hand‑finishing
Textile glue dries too slowly and is usually too thick for this kind of precise work. In an emergency, a very thin liquid glue might work, but Fray Stop gives far better control and a cleaner finish.
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