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Product Placement

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@chamaknikar-garage
Bedankt aan iedereen die heeft bijgedragen aan 1000 vind-ik-leuks!
Only drawstring is functional
3 elastic replaced
Only drawstring is functional
Second post
Front and back center seam are now ready, not working on the side.
Use textile glue are the edge of the back panel and let is dry.
Prepare a bias band in thin nylon fabric.
Iron the bias band when the glue is still soft but dry. Use a single straight stich to secure the bias band.
Now working on the front panels.
Make a seam on the front of the fabric with the tape
Set a second tape to hold the striped band, just near the seam.
Sew the striped band on to the seam using 2 colors thread.
Step 1 after cutting the fabric, make Center seam.
I use double sided water solutiable tape. Set it 2 mm from the edge from top to crotch on the right side.
Set the second part as close to the edge. Then immediately set the first straight stitch at 8mm.
The tape is 6mm and de 2 mm gap makes sure the stich is just at the edge of the tape
Now cut the 2 mm to make sure both sides are exactly the same.
Set the machine to zigzag to secure the edges.
Set the fabric so the needle is just over the edge of the fabric.
Set a second straight stitch as close to the previous straight stitch.
Repeat the procedure for front and back.
Thank you @maikls-posts and everyone who got me to 100 reblogs!
Part 2
In these two images, you can see how I expose the elastic by creating a small opening in the cotton lining.
Using a seam ripper, I make a controlled cut in the cotton layer, directly above the channel where the elastic runs. The goal is to open only the top layer, without touching the nylon outer fabric or the stitching.
In this photo, I lift the top elastic using the same method as before.
Once the opening in the cotton lining is large enough, I slide a large needle underneath the elastic and gently lift it upward. This separates the elastic from the inner layer and makes it fully visible.
This is the moment to check that you’ve reached the correct layer: the elastic should move freely and should not be caught in any stitching. Once it’s exposed, it can be cut and pulled out of the channel, just like with the previous tunnels.
Now that all old elastics have been removed, it’s important to inspect the entire waistband.
These two images show how I check both the inside and outside for broken or weakened stitches.
On the inside, the waistband uses a chain stitch, which can loosen when opening the tunnels or when the old elastic has put stress on the seams.
On the outside, there is a straight stitch, and this must also be completely intact before inserting new elastic. Once tension is applied, even a small break can cause the channel to tear further.
That’s why I check every tunnel, every seam, and every transition. If I find a missing stitch, I repair it by hand — just a few millimeters of reinforcement is enough to restore the structure.
Now that the tunnels are open and all old elastics have been removed, the new buttonholes need to be reinforced.
Because the outer layer of the waistband must not be stitched, I insert a small cardboard wedge between the layers. This prevents the needle from penetrating the nylon outer fabric.
I start with a straight stitch, about 3 mm from the cut, connecting the existing stitching to the next point. This forms the foundation of the buttonhole.
Then I sew the buttonhole stitch:
-Insert the needle into the cut
-Bring it up through the fabric just behind the straight stitch
-Keep the stitch fairly loose, so the fabric doesn’t pucker and the buttonhole stays flat
I repeat this process for both sides of the buttonhole and for both openings.
The result is a strong, cleanly finished buttonhole that can safely guide the new elastic without tearing.
This photo shows the reinforced buttonhole after both sides have been hand‑stitched. The straight stitch forms the foundation, while the buttonhole stitches prevent the edges from tearing once the new elastic is under tension.
Thanks to the cardboard wedge, the outer layer remains untouched, so nothing is visible from the outside. This is the finished buttonhole: strong, clean, and ready for threading the new elastic.
Here you can see the fully finished buttonhole in the waistband. The edges are neatly reinforced with hand‑sewn buttonhole stitches, and the outer layer of the shorts remains completely untouched.
The new opening blends seamlessly with the original stitching pattern and is strong enough to hold the new elastic for many years. The drawstring moves smoothly through the channel again, and the waistband is fully restored with no visible signs of the repair.
This is the final result: an invisible repair, but structurally stronger than the original.
Used tools:
• Seam ripper to open the waistband carefully
• Two large needles to guide the new elastic through the channels
• 3 mm elastic (for all three elastic channels)
• Fray Stop to stiffen the fabric slightly, allowing a clean, straight cut on the inside
• Small clips to hold the fabric in place
• Precision knife for detail work
• Strong thread and needle for hand‑finishing
Why not textile glue?
Textile glue dries too slowly and is usually too thick for this kind of precise work. In an emergency, a very thin liquid glue might work, but Fray Stop gives far better control and a cleaner finish.
Only the vintage Adidas military versions have replaceable elastics using buttonholes at the center seam. The regular versions require replacing the elastic through the tunnels and new button holes
This is part 1
Only the military versions have replaceable elastics using buttonholes at the center seam. The regular versions require replacing the elastic through the tunnels.
This photo shows the shorts before any work is done.
In this version, the drawstring exits through a single buttonhole. I use that same buttonhole to replace the top elastic: by moving the drawstring aside, I can expose the elastic and work through the existing opening.
On some shorts, the buttonhole extends down into the third channel. When that happens, a different method becomes possible because you gain direct access to multiple channels at once. But on this model, the buttonhole only reaches the upper two channels, so replacing the elastic through this route is the most efficient approach.
This image shows the starting point: an intact waistband with four channels, one visible buttonhole, and a drawstring that we’ll temporarily shift aside to reach the top elastic.
2 In this photo, I’ve applied Fray Stop to the spot where the second buttonhole will be made.
I place this new buttonhole at the same distance from the center seam as the original one, but on the left side. This keeps the waistband symmetrical and preserves the original look of the shorts.
3 In this photo, you can see that the drawstring sits on top of the cotton inner lining. This is an important detail: the drawstring runs through the second channel, while the top elastic is located under the cotton layer, which is why it’s not visible yet.
4 These two images show how I create the new buttonhole.
On the left, I use a craft knife with the sharp edge facing upward to make the first, very controlled cut exactly where the buttonhole will be. Because I applied Fray Stop earlier, the fabric stays firm and doesn’t shift while cutting.
On the right, I enlarge the opening with a seam ripper, stopping just before the stitching line. It’s important not to cut into the seam itself — the goal is to open the channel, not damage the waistband construction. Working slowly and opening only a few millimeters at a time keeps the cut clean and straight.
6 These two images show the next step in the process.
On the left, I test whether the large needle fits through the new opening. This is important: if the needle moves smoothly through the channel, the buttonhole is wide enough to insert the new elastic later on.
On the right, I lift the old elastic upward. By gently pulling it up, it separates from the cotton lining and becomes visible and accessible. Once it’s exposed, it can be cut and then pulled out of the channel completely.
This step is essential: you want to remove the old elastic without damaging the channel, so the new elastic can glide through the same space without resistance.
In this photo, you can see that I chose not to extend the second buttonhole across the lower two channels. This is intentional: the top elastic is now accessible, and for the lower channels I repeat the same steps, but through their own layer.
The lower tunnel requires extra care. The fabric here is double-layered because the waistband seam continues down into the lowest channel. This means the elastic sits under a second layer of nylon. You need to work through the top layer without damaging the seam structure underneath.
The needle in the photo shows that I’ve located the correct layer and gained access to the channel where the lower elastic runs. From this point, the old elastic can be lifted, cut, and removed — just like with the upper tunnel, but with more precision due to the double fabric layer.