NORWAY

EUS880 Field Studies

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Day 8: Museums, Urban Cycling

September 29, 2018

Last day! :((

This morning was the last outing featuring the entirety of us. We visited quite a few museums. First, we went to the Viking Museum which had a collection of huge and authentic viking ships. The thing I found most astonishing about them was the fact that the vikings lived on the deck of the ship! There was no room below for living quarters, so they were constantly exposed to the elements. No wonder they received a reputation for being so tough. 

Next we went to the Kon-Tiki Museum, which outlined the expedition of Thor Heyerdahl as he sailed across the Atlantic Ocean on a bamboo ship to prove the possibility of travel to the Americas centuries before. His life was followed closely by the public eye and he became an international hero. The amount of Tiki parapheranelia that came to be in pop culture moving forward because of his trip is almost equally as amazing. 

Then on to the Fram Museum, which was about the brave scientists and explorers to travel to the North Pole, and then later the South Pole. There was a massive ship in the building from one of the expeditions that you were able to walk through and see how life was lived on these voyages. What amazed me more than the sheer number of people to die in this pursuit, was the fact that in the early 1900′s, with limited technology, anyone was able to complete any of these journeys at all. 

The day was wrapped up when Lauren, Caroline, and I all rented city bikes to tour around in. We were able to easily use the bikes which I loved, but didn’t think that it felt necessarily much safer than Toronto, though cars definitely do drive a lot slower here. 

I’m definitely going to be sad to leave this place... It has felt as though we’ve been here forever. It’s been such an incredible experience, and I’ve learned so much. I’m not going to be happy to see Toronto, but I will be happy to finally get some time away from 30 people after a long week of constant socializing. 

Norway, you’ve been great. Until next time <33

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Day 7: Transportation, Culture

September 28, 2018

This morning we attended a lecture at the Norwegian Institute for Transport Economics by Dr. Sørenson. Norway, as it turns out, is the safest country to be a pedestrian, cyclist, or motorist in. They have the lowest number of vehicle related deaths in the world. This is due in part to the culture of the country, but also to the vigorous training motorists must get before driving, and their pedestrian and cyclist friendly infrastructure (large sidewalks with physical barriers from motorist traffic, speed limits, etc.). They also have the highest uptake of electric vehicles in the world. This is because of the high taxes that all other cars receive; the government reduced taxation on battery operated vehicles and therefore incentivized their purchase. It is also within the culture to be environmentally responsible, which has contributed towards this shift.

Later we went to the Oslo Olympic Ski Jump, which is still a functioning Olympic training facility to this day. Inside there was a museum about skiing in Norway. They even had a little display dedicated to climate change and how that has affected, and will continue to affect skiing in the country. 

The last stop of the day was the sculpture park! The entirety of the park’s sculptures were designed by one man over the course of pretty much his entire life. They were all nude, and I’m not certain the same thing would have been erected in Canada, which speaks to the differences in conservatism. The whole park seemed to revolve around life, aging, the sun, and inevitably time. The centrepiece resembled a sundial and clearly changed throughout the day to create different shadows depending on where the light hit. It was stunning.  

Tonight, all 30 of us are having dinner together and I cannot wait! Sad to know that we only have one full day left here...

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Day 6: Environmental Conservation

September 27, 2018

Back on the road once again! Today we went for a small hike up to the Snøhetta viewpoint looking on the Tverrfjellet mountain in Dovre National Park. On the way we had the privilege of seeing one of the 250 remaining Muscox in the conservation area.

The Snøhetta viewpoint was commissioned by the Norwegian Wild Reindeer Centre, and allows tourists to view the wildlife safely within their “cage”. While we were there, a biologist told us a little bit about conservation in Norway, and we found in some ways that it was very similar to Canada. Conservation happens at varying levels of government, and parks are managed accordingly. As far as wild reindeer go, they take conservation very seriously. Motorized vehicles are not allowed within the park, and hunting is licensed specifically to maintain the species’ numbers within the land’s carrying capacity. About 200 hunting licenses are sold per year. 

On our way to Oslo, we drove by Lillihammer, and discussed the social and economic impacts of hosting Olympic Games. The Lillihammer facilities cost $2.5 billion, over 3 times the initial planned budget for the games. Many facilities were built specifically for the games and received little use after they were over. Although it remains a culturally significant location and is still visited by tourists, it definitely was expensive for the country at the time. We discussed the parallels Canada experienced with the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics. 

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Day 5: Agriculture, Cultural Heritage

September 26, 2018

Woke up in Oppdal today! The cabins here are so cute but I am just way too tall to be on the top bunk. I keep hitting my head. We were successfully able to cook dinner in last night, as well as breakfast and lunch this morning and save some money. Norway is beautiful but it’s also expensive. 

The wee hours of the morning were spent at Oppdalsmuseet where we were able to learn a little bit about the culture here in Norway and also some of the history that lives within Oppdal. Many of the roofs that we’ve seen here (including the ones on top of our cabins) are green roofs, a technology that has been around for hundreds of years! A layer of birch is laid on top of the roof before soil, and then moss, grass, and even sometimes trees can grow on top, providing insulation both in the winter and summer, and extending the life of the roof. We also spoke about janteloven, the unwritten law in Norway which it’s residents to some effect still live by; you are no better than your neighbour and should put society and the well being of the whole ahead of yourself. The robust and socialist social system here in Norway can be explained by this mindset. We walked around a few buildings on the property from the 1800′s and later, one of which was Tor’s great grandfather’s blacksmith’s shop. 

After the museum, we headed over to a dairy farm where we found the happiest cows in the world! This is where you’ll also have found the happiest Chantelle on the trip (please see above photo). We learned that pretty much all of the dairy in Norway would constitute as Organic within a Canadian context: no hormones, no antiobiotics unless absolutely necessary, free range, grass fed. I have never seen cows living in such clean conditions either. Seriously considered becoming a Norwegian dairy farmer for a few moments while we were in there. They even have this cool smart milking robot that they’ve trained the cows to use through a reward system. The robot keeps track of all of the cows and when they need to be milked and it’s all very cool. 

Last stop on today’s journey (for me at least) was the viking graveyard. The vikings would bury their dead in their ships with treasures and goods for the afterlife, and then pile dirt on top, to create these massive heaps across the field, each containing their own viking. 

Now it’s naptime before tonight’s cabinside shenanigans! 

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Day 4: Climate Change

September 25, 2018

Drove out from Førde this morning to go to Kjenndalsbreen Glacier. It is a popular tourist destination, however over the course of even the last decade, the area has witnessed significant changes due to a changing climate. The arm of the glacier that reaches down into the valley below has been retreating, not recovering its annual ice melt. This is a physical manifestation of a climate that is being altered at a rapid pace. Looking at the beautiful landscape around me, it was hard to imagine the fact that some day soon, the glacier may just not be there anymore. 

On our drive through the country today, we went through so many varying terrains! We officially departed the land of the fjords and started seeing more of inland Norway. At one point we entered a 6km tunnel and on the other side it was winter! Farmers here have dealt with harsh conditions and mountainside farming for centuries. Apparently farmers would have to use ladders to scale the mountains and reach their fields. 

The next stop today was very different, the Stave Church in the small town of Lom. This is an 800 year old church, and the second oldest church in Norway. The fact that something can even exist for 800 years and tourists let inside regualrly blows my mind. If something in Canada were to be this old it would be vacuum sealed in a museum where no one could touch it! We also went to a bakery in the town. I liked that much better. Tonight we will reach Tor’s hometown of Oppdal.

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Day 3: Globalization, Historical Geography

September 24th, 2018

Had a great last evening in Stavanger last night. Almost the entire gang went out to a few bars around “downtown” Stavanger, we filled a whole bar! 

We drove through the mountainside on our way to Bergen; I definitely fell asleep a few times over the course of the bus ride. One thing we’ve noticed over the duration of this trip is the extensive system of tunnels that connects Norway. They go through mountains and under the ocean to increase transit efficiency. Norway is making it a goal to make the entire country ferry free through the use of tunnels. They are currently building a tunnel that will be 27km long and it is slotted for completion by 2027! It will be the world’s longest undersea tunnel. 

Fisheries are a big part of the economy in Norway. Due to the little amount of arable land, and the short growing season, the coastal areas rely heavily on fish as a food source. The lateral decision making process across fisheries and levels of government has allowed the government to preserve its fish populations and prevent fishery collapses as witnessed in Newfoundland. 

Bergen is a big fishing town and a popular tourist destination. As you might find in a fishing town in Canada, there was a large pier with a little market where you could buy fresh fish or sit down for a meal, which we did. They are also very keen on preserving architecture, maybe even more so than in Canada. In Bergen there is a place called the “Hansa Village” where there is a collection of little wooden houses built by the Hanseatic League, a trading group in the 14th century. The village is now a UNESCO world heritage site, and is populated by little tourist shops, yet preserved in a fairly original state. Fun fact: a popular beer in Norway is called Hansa beer. 

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Day 2: Geology, Oil

September 23rd, 2018

Woke up in Stavanger today! We’re staying at a hotel in a hospital which is also connected to a university? These Norwegians really have mixed use planning down. 

Today is all about the geology of Norway, and in celebration we’re doing the hike up to Norway’s most popular outlook, Preacher’s Pulpit. It gives an incredible view of a fjord from over 600m above. Fjords are a defining characteristic of Norway, as well are mountains. Mountains are tall, but rounded from thousands of years of glacial icemelt. The movement of water across the landscape has created large valleys and rivers across the country. These geographical characteristics have largely shaped culture here, residents spend plenty of time outdoors, hiking, skiing, rock climbing. Tourists comme moi also take advantage of the beauty of the landscape.

Not only is geology beneficial for tourism and culture, but it has been a major driver in the country’s shift towards wealth. Stavanger is the city in Norway with the highest property values, due to the large oil industry that fuels the city’s economic activity. Many of the residents in Stavanger go to school for engineering and work in the oil industry later. The paradox here is that the carbon intensive industry that fuels its economic growth, is the same one that provides the wealth which allows the country to be so progressive and environmentally friendly. 

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Day 1: The Long Flight Over

September 22, 2018

Impromptu entry! We’re sitting in the Oslo airport waaaay longer than we were supposed to. It’ll have been 6 hours total that we spent here. I guess it would be a lot to expect for everything to go according to plan, but it would have been nice. Will update when we arrive at our destination.