How to sew Welt Pocket for Yuzu coat and any other garment
Yuzu coat sewing pattern is very popular in Waffle Patterns in this season. It features 2 types of the pocket ; a quick and easy patch type and an authentic welt type.
The welt type takes time and patience to sew, and the step by step illustrated instruction is included in the pattern. But I want more people try that, because it is totally worthy and adds professional look on your coat.
So, here is a sewalong of the welt pocket!
Off course, you can apply this pocket for any other suitable jacket/coat patterns.
How to sew the Welt Pocket
<< Cut Fabric / Interfacing >>
Cut the parts and put the markings as the pattern indication. (Be careful the photo shows only right side parts, please double them for L/R sides pockets).
Put interfacing on the Welt and the pocket open place of the bodice.
(For the sample in the photo, I use a square fabric piece instead of the bodice for the explanation.)
<< Fold and crease welt fabric >>
Press and crease the Pocket Welt before stitching as the finished shape.
<< Stitch pocket pouch front and welt >>
1. Open the folded parts on the Pocket Welt. Place the Pocket Pouch Front and the Pocket Welt right sides together, match the notches and sew.
2. Press the seam to the Pocket Pouch side.
<Attach welt and pouch fabrics to the bodice >>
1. Check the markings on the Pocket pieces and the pocket places on the right side of the bodice.
2. Place the Pocket Welt onto the pocket place of the bodice right sides together, matching the lines. Sew between the notches using short stitch length.
3. Place the Pocket Pouch Back onto the bodice right sides together. Put the both attaching lines together and sew between the notches.
Flip the Welt and the Pouch and cut a slit on the Bodice as shown. Get close to the corner, but be careful not to cut into the stitching.
1. Push the Welt to the wrong side of the Bodice through the slit. Turn it to the wrong side. Open and press the inside seams.
2. Fold and press the welt on the fold lines again.
3. Push the folded Pocket Welt to the right side. Baste the under edge.
4. Turn over the bodice. Stitch the pocket welt fabric and the seams.
5. Turn the bodice to the right side. Flip the Pocket welt and Blind stitch and fix the seamallowance of the both sides.
<< Fix pocket pouch pieces >>
Push the Pocket Pouch Back to the wrong side of the Bodice through the slit and press and shape the pocket open. Put it on the Pocket Pouch Front and fix the both pouch with pins.
*Depend on your fabric thickness, the parts might not line up correctly. Put on naturally avoiding wrinkles or warps.
Double stitch the edge of the front and back Pocket Pouch pieces.
Turn the bodice to the right side. Top stitch the both sides of the Pocket Welt.
The Raglan Coat Yuzu sewing pattern is available here. Also in Etsy shop.
The lining pattern included and Japanese version available.
Also you can find a Free cutomize hood pattern for Yuzu coat and Free pattern and instruction of flap pocket.
If you have any questions about the pattern and instruction, please contact me. If you put your photos of your creation from my patterns on your blog or other media, please share with Waffle Pattern’s address and don’t forget #wafflepatterns on the SNSs!
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