Handmade Hanfu-ish

[creeds-projects]

So… getting the buttons, button holes and bottom hem in the right place was the worst part of this whole project.

I lost count of how many try-ons were done and buttons sewn. Plus I ended up putting two darts in the front as the hem was sticking out in a very strange way.

But it was finally done after several evenings of fiddling and unpicking.

I love these tiny buttons I’ve found for the inside..

[creeds-projects]

I hate collars.

I though this one would be ok, but no. Even a straight strip of cloth was an absolute pain. Took three tries and two unpickings to get it to lay reasonably flat.

This process took three whole evenings.

First attempt.. I even tacked it down carefully, not relying on just pins.

(Yes, I used my ironing ham to help hold the shape I wanted around the neckline. Didn’t help.)

So bumpy….

I found the easiest way was to iron the collar strip first. Put in the two folds to hide the raw edges, and measure out the middle fold so the right side was the same width all along. This also helped stiffen the fabric and hold it straight and prevent weird wrinkles when I machined it into place.

The entire length of collar fabric was already stiffened with iron-on interfacing. But ironing in the folds really helped with stabalising the entire thing.

Finally!

Yes there were two ‘weird’ spots. I unpicked the seam and re-did it on the machine. Problem solved!

Next time this whole process should be much easier.

This was also the point I decided to turn this project into the jacket, and intend to re-make this whole garment as a top in a different fabric to match the skirt I’m planning. I must be either mad, or a masochist.

[creeds-projects]

I did make a rookie mistake… I cut the neck hole while the material was folded, forgetting I was also cutting the back panel. That 5 second lack of attention took two evenings and a rush trip down to my local craft & material store to fix….

Otherwise, the lining was easy to cut, stitch and hem. Also was good for re-learning how the heck to use a sewing machine again after 25 years. You can find pretty much anything on youtube, even instructions on how to thread an old model sewing machine.

After repeating all the steps with the outer fabric, I stuffed it inside the lining. My original idea was to bag the entire garment, but as I was putting on the cuff and collar strips, I decided to skip it and just hide the hemmed edges in them.

I ironed on some interfacing before attaching the cuffs.

The cuffs went on super easy, though I did join the loop inside out and cut it before realising, so re-stitching those with the cuffs already attached was a pain. Something to watch for next time.

[creeds-projects]

So.. I decided to try my hand at making a hanfu inspired top. Not going for accuracy, just inspired by the historical/fantasy drama shows I’ve been watching lately. I’m in love with Word of Honor and League Of Noblemen. Those shows (and Untamed, Grandmaster etc,) made me curious about the time periods/styles. Yes some are more fantasy but learning about the dress and culture and then about how Hanfu is having a modern revival after being suppressed by the Qing dynasty is fascinating. Plus, how can anyone resist giant sleeves?

(Must admit the sleeve ‘corner’ is my favourite bit so far)

Did I mention this is my first ever sewing project outside of Junior School? 🤣 The reason I felt able to even attempt this is due to the style. Simple straight collar and the shoulder seams are halfway down the upper arm. Also no weird seam shapes, darts or gathering fabric into tight cuffs. Very beginner friendly.