Culinaire Gourmet

A journey of French food and beverage through the palate of a sommelier/restaurateur.

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Have you ever tasted a wine from the Pineau d'Aunis grape? This ancient red grape that is indigenous to the Loire Valley is not well known. Pineau d'Aunis used to be fairly widespread but since the vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera it was not as widely replanted. Another name for it is Chenin Noir, but it has no relation to Chenin Blanc. These wines are acidic, peppery, light and surprisingly have some tannins. A French baby Nebbiolo was a descriptor I used when tasting this wine. ◾️ Jean-Marie Renvoisé makes this delicious every day sipper from a 1.5 hectare plot of Pineau d'Aunis in the Coteaux du Loir region. He uses only wild yeasts, old oak casks and very hands off winemaking. The wine is spicy, low in alcohol and light on its feet. Perfect for a charcuterie board. ◾️ With the rise of global warming it makes me wonder if these low potential alcohol ancient varietals will see a renaissance. https://www.instagram.com/p/B1bmrCwnyEc/?igshid=qgmwst8sj69k

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Clos Sainte Magdeleine is one of the iconic producers in Provence. Located just outside the port city of Cassis, their vines are perched on the beautiful limestone cliffs that overlook the Mediterranean. Due to the proximity of the ocean these wines have a certain salinity and freshness to them. ◾️ Being certified organic, I first met the proprietors François and Jonathan Sack at Millésime Bio in Montpellier. It was nice to taste through their lineup while Jonathan was describing the details about each cuvée. When I asked him about his struggles, he mentioned that he is starting to see some effects from climate change and his vines have been struggling to produce fruit. He has been advocating for different varietals to be used more in the blends. The heavier white and red Rhône varietals get too alcoholic and loose acid if the growing season is too hot. As of now there has been no changes to the AOC/AOP. ◾️ At almost 6 years old the 2013 Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Blanc is drinking very well. Marsanne is the most used varietal in the blend. The other varietals used are Ugni Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc. Young or old these wines are always highly aromatic. Notes of white peach, honeysuckle, wild herbs and citrus zest. I would also recommend trying their Cassis Rosé or the single vineyard Cassis Blanc “Bel-Arme”. Classically, their wines are fantastic with fish but I equally enjoy them with cheese and charcuterie. #cassis #provence (at Montpellier, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/B1G2xQ1HZme/?igshid=6szpzyx33658

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The first time I visited here it was exactly how I expected it. No photography inside, but outside there was an old trestle table with other supporters giving you free reign to enjoy your petit déjeuner and take your photographs. The escargot was and still is insanely good. Currently they are closed for “les vacances”, but will reopen toward the end of the month so you can get your escargot fix. #paris (at Du Pain Et Des Idees) https://www.instagram.com/p/B1AxdI9H-If/?igshid=i1sf15acykh3

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There is a long history from Château Yvonne. It was once ran by monks starting in the 16th century. Today, it has been ran by Matthieu Vallée since 2007. Along with Chateau du Hureau, these are some of my favorite producers coming out of Saumur-Champigny. Château Yvonne has a total of 28 plots consisting of 3 hectares of Chenin Blanc and 8 hectares of Cabernet Franc. Matthieu is strict in the vineyard by farming organically (certified) and biodynamically. ◾️ The 2015 “La Folie” is 100% Cabernet Franc from mostly old vines. Everything is done with little intervention in the vineyard and in the winery. Native yeast fermentation, aging in old oak barrels and bottling unfined and unfiltered. This wine is silky and spicy with a wonderful earthy-fruity balance. If you see any of Château Yvonne’s wines at a wine shop or restaurant, I recommend buying them up. They do not make a lot of wine and sometimes the rarity adds to the excitement of buying and drinking wine. #cabernetfranc #saumurchampigny https://www.instagram.com/p/B0yG5gXH3lo/?igshid=1sd39oy27nwcs

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A delicious Champagne from the village of Merfy in Montagne de Reims. The history of the Taillet family growing grapes in this region dates back to 1683. Fast forward to today, Philippe Chartogne and his wife Elisabeth have had the family estate since 1978. Their son, Alexandre, joined the estate in 2006 after working with the iconic producer Anselme Selosse. They have 12 hectares of vineyards focusing on the different terroirs and producing micro cuvées. Through plowing and allowing cover crops they work organically in the vineyard creating a full focus on natural quality. ◾️ This Cuvée Sainte Anne Brut is blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. There is a touch of oak aging but it is well balanced. The main harvest was 2011 with a disgorgement date of June 2014. It is mineral driven with notes of of citrus, ginger, cherry and lilies. These wines age well and are crazy good. Definitely worth having multiples in your cellar. #champagne🍾 — view on Instagram https://ift.tt/2GCd1fu

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C'est l'heure de l'apéro ! This Corsican aperitif wine is perfect for sipping on ice with a splash of soda or 🍾. #apero — view on Instagram https://ift.tt/2OlpPNj

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Backing up my last post, this is the beauty of Savoie. A must visit region for high acid wines. In this heat, it is about the only style of wine I like to drink. #vindesavoie — view on Instagram https://ift.tt/2ybfqsP

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Savoie is one of those wine regions that I wish I had more of in my cellar. The low alcohol, higher acidity wines from Savoie are some of my favorite summer sippers. Not all Savoie producers are the same in style. It is important to know what you are buying because some of the whites can be highly oxidative. ◾️ Philippe and Francois Tiollier from Domaine de l’Idylle have 18 hectares around the village of Cruet below the Bauges Mountains. They produce a range of wines from traditional Savoie grape varieties: Mondeuse, Jacquère, and Roussette. The brothers are the most recent generation of this long running family business. ◾️ This old vine Jacquère is refreshing and crisp. No oxidative characters at all. Notes of green apple, lemon zest, fennel and wet stone. The mouthfeel has a touch of creaminess which makes it a great pairing with some of the local alpine cheeses. This is one of the most beautiful wine regions I have visited. I recommend adding it to your bucket list ✅ #vindesavoie — view on Instagram https://ift.tt/32IzhxF

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Bon #14juillet à tous ! 🇫🇷 I hope everyone is having a little extra French cheese and charcuterie today. Cherry tomatoes are almost always the default pique-nique vegetable.🧺 — view on Instagram https://ift.tt/2YRdxxa

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The vineyards of Saumur-Champigny in the Loire Valley are littered with the local limestone, Tuffeau. They produce some of the most wonderfully aromatic Cabernet Franc wines. #terroir — view on Instagram https://ift.tt/2LdQRUq

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Petit déjeuner avec François Théron l'abricot et Rodolphe Le Meunier beurre. — view on Instagram http://bit.ly/2Iw6ynz

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A summer quencher to enjoy from the Côte Roannaise. This mostly Gamay growing wine region is situated close to Beaujolais but it is considered as part of the Loire Valley wine region. What is also atypical, is this wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. ◾️ Francisque Lapandery acquired the estate from his father, Paul. This is a very hilly region and at least 70% of their holdings are on hillsides. They farm organically, the hard way. They produce wines from Gamay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Only the Gamay has AOP status. The Gamay rosé is also a delicious summer quencher. Their wines are light, fresh, fruit forward and with a lovely mineral and spice componetnt. ◾️ This old vine Sauvignon Blanc bottling is grown on granite. It has good acidity with a very textured mouthfeel. Rich, but not over the top. Notes of peaches and nectarines. Very long finish. On a hot day it makes the perfect picnic wine. #vindefrance — view on Instagram http://bit.ly/2I5z3rS

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Valentin showing us there is more than just Melon de Bourgogne being grown in the Muscadet region. #sauvignonblanc — view on Instagram http://bit.ly/2WI1Z1u

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Ok maybe I’ll open one more of these bags this weekend. What’s your favorite flavor? #chips #comte — view on Instagram http://bit.ly/30O877m

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Another beautiful wine from Marie-Pierre and François Mikulski. Their bottling from the Premier Cru Poruztos in Mersault comes from 50+ year old vines that lie on this mineral slope. Organic farming is always being utilized by the domaine. The wines does see some time in barrel but it is not overpowering. The whole domaine uses about 20% new oak. ◾️ There is plenty of age-ability in this wine but I’ve had so many oxidized white Burgundy’s I’m rolling the dice less and less these days. Plus it is delicious now! Notes of pears, apples, toasted nuts and kiwi. Such a long finish encouraging one to savor every sip. #meursault — view on Instagram http://bit.ly/2LTLYBe

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Vilmart is one of those producers that are hard to resist when looking at a wine list. They tend to be spendy but if the sommelier runs low margin on Champagnes (which I prefer to do) then you can get it at a more reasonable price. ◾️ Vilmart & Cie from Montagne de Reims in champagne was established in 1890. It is run by the fifth generation of the family, Laurent Champs. Most of their vineyard holding are in Rilly-la-Montagne and consist of about 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. They do not buy fruit and control all of their own vineyards. Organic farming is a priority. ◾️ I do not love oak to be used in every Champagne but with a standout producer and/or high quality vintage it can be a game changer. The 2007 Cœur de Cuvée is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. It’s from a Premier Cru called Les Blanches Voies Hautes. The wine spends 10 months in oak. 11+ years later this wine is showing beautifully. The oak is a welcoming accessory adding a touch of nutty baking spice notes. None of the over the top oxidative notes you can get with some oaked Champagnes. There is plenty of acid and freshness with a well rounded mouthfeel. Definitely a more serious #Champagne you can enjoy with your entire meal. 🥂🍾 — view on Instagram http://bit.ly/2H2uvCf

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Pommard. View from the climat En Moigelot. On the other side of the village is several Premier Crus. Part of Les Grand Epenots is on the far right. #bourgogne #burgundy — view on Instagram http://bit.ly/2Y35Tin