Basics About Crochet and Yarn
Basic Stitches Key:
CH = Chain
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
SlSt = Slip Stitch
FO = Finish Off
NOTE: US terms and UK terms are different. If you get a UK pattern, they will call a Single Crochet a Double Crochet, so be sure to check the pattern terminology before starting. It is very easy to adjust once you get the hang of it.
Hook Sizing:
The bigger the Millimeter (mm) and the further along the alphabet the letter, the larger the hook will be.
Many Yarns will suggest what size Crochet Hook or Knitting Needle best suits it on the Label. It may also tell you how many stitches per inch you should get in a small square.
The suggested hook size on the yarn label might not match your pattern, but go by your patterns recommendation, as that is the best way to achieve the final look and size.
Gauge and Tension:
A Pattern may call for a different size hook then a weight or brand of yarn might recommend on its label. This is how the designer gets the desired shape and look to their finished project. You will change in tension as you go along your crochet journey. If something is turning out too small or too big, adjust your hook size accordingly.
For example: I am a “loose” crocheter, so I usually go down one hook size from the recommendation in the pattern. When I knit, I knit too tight, so I go Up a needle size. You will learn where your yarn tension lands after some trial and error.
Some patterns have a “Check your gauge” that will tell you how many stitches per inch you need to keep your finished project true to size. Usually you can test this by making a small square and counting how many stitches per inch you get. If that does not match the pattern, then you can adjust by changing your hook to be larger or smaller to match the pattern. This is called a Gauge Swatch, and is very handy when making larger projects where gauge is crucial, such as garments. Some patterns, like scarves, gauge may not matter and you can use whatever hook or yarn you are comfortable with.
Yarn Weights:
Yarn weights are generally indicated on a label that states it’s number. The number is often shown on an illustration of a skein/ball of yarn. The HIGHER the number, the Thicker the yarn is. The LOWER the number, the Finer the yarn is.
Thread – Fingering – Sock – DK – Worsted – Aran - Bulky
Delicate projects like Doily’s are typically made with Thread / or Crochet Thread.
Most Socks are made with a Sock Weight yarn, which will be marked anywhere from a 0 to 3.
Many Projects are created using Worsted Weight Yarn which are labeled a 4.
Number 5 indicates Bulky, and 6 and above is Super Bulky.
Substituting Yarns:
Sometimes a pattern might call for a particular brand of yarn. Don’t fret! I love to use yarner resources like Ravelry.com to look up that brand of yarn and see the Weight of it. From there, you can find a yarn that matches easily. For example: Cascade 220 SuperWash Worsted Weight can be substituted with Red Heart Yarns Worsted Weight. Be sure to check how many YARDS are needed to complete your project, so that you have enough balls/skeins of yarn to complete it.
Note: If the project is “felted” be sure to read the entire process before starting. Felted projects usually require that the object be made larger than the finished product, and they need Wool that has not been treated or “Superwashed” (Superwashing keeps wool from Shrinking).
Favorite Youtubes for Patterns and Tutorials:
- Crochet Geek
- Bella Coco
- The Crochet Crowd
Alternative to Magic ring: Chain three, Join to first chain made with a Slip Stitch, and crochet the recommended amount of stitches into the Circle/Space/Hole. – The reason many people suggest a Magic Ring is because it makes a smooth start to a project. Be sure with the Chain 3 OR Magic Ring method, that you weave in the ends, so it doesn’t unravel.
Have more questions? Submit them to my inbox OR reblog with your question and I’ll do my best to answer them.
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