This Is Really Happening

Musing on fashion and living the dream

[febgl]

Finding Inspiration

Sometimes you don’t even have to be looking...

I came across this image today, a commissioned piece for The New York Times Sunday Review. I’ve been thinking a lot lately about where inspiration comes from, how we find it, what we do with it. I’ve felt compelled to do something “with it”, but always paralyzed when trying to take action. And then this...

Arresting. What does it evoke inside you? Feelings of surprise, fear, mystery, anxiety. How do we explain that - the feelings that arise in the face of art, in the face of inspiration? 

Who is this faceless woman, commanding attention, a mountain in front of these two men holding hands, hugging one another? This painting says so much about the world we live in today; it’s so beautiful and yet so unsettling. 

Matthieu Bourel is the genius behind this piece.  His words perfectly explain what I’ve been struggling to put into words... “A piece often becomes about the search and desire to combine those emergent narrative symbols that seem charged with a familiar yet distant emotion.

When successful, all the elements fall together with irony and tension while all other realities are obliterated, leaving the viewer as participant inside the picture, with his own codes and connections. The image then carries the weight of a personal reality. Most important, the final image actually gains a significant evocative quality I could not have expressed in any other way.”

At first glance the piece looks like an image we’ve possibly seen before, and yet it’s a new commission. An original, yet so familiar. 

To me it says that everything is possible, nothing is forever, and love is all we need. It says the world we live in is infinite and that the endless permutations of realities create this infinite quality of the Universe. It gives me hope - hope for a better future for all, hope for the sun to rise again tomorrow, and gives me strength to go into the unknown because all that we desire is in there. 

[febgl]

It’s time to start something new #london #sunsets 

[febgl]

Styling Denim

Stylist are responsible for more than just making clothes, hair, makeup, sets, etc., look attractive and appealing, they're the ones who create visual identities, fantasies, moods, making dreams come to life. 

Styling requires a certain confidence from within. You have to trust your instincts and be willing to take risks. A bit of a metaphor for life really. 

Having an eye for styling is a natural talent everyone has at least a little bit of in them, I think. It's so subjective that what's appealing to you may not be appealing to others but could be appealing to some. The key is to tap into that talent, whether it's with your wardrobe, home decor or choice in colour of car. With practice it's possible to flex that muscle and exercise it, producing some fantastic, inspiring, eye catching visuals. And what's even better is the release that comes through tapping into this form of self-expression. Best. Therapy. Ever.

Taking inspiration from the world around you, it's amazing to see how one can translate those thoughts, images, musical rhythms into engaging visual content. The best advice: never close your eyes while riding in a car as you'll miss the inspiring views that race by as you drive along; advice given to Grace Coddington by Norman Parkinson, the celebrated photographer mentor to the genuis creative director of American Vogue. 

At CN College we finished off the course with a denim styling shoot. Below, the mood board that led to Belinda MacBain's and my shoot, as well as some of my favourite shots from the rest of the class. 

This mood board shows the tough, powerful attitude we wanted to portray through our take on "power dressing", using high waisted denim and a fitted, sleek blazer. 

Model: Natalie Feltham @ Premier Model Management, Photographs by Gilbey, Styling by Belinda MacBain and Fiona Grant Leydier

Models: Natalie Feltham (Premier) & Julia Glossop (Storm Models), Photographs by Gilbey & Rory Critchlow-Simpson, Styling by CN College Vogue Fashion Certificate Oct-Dec '14 Graduates

[febgl]

Rings: A Love Story

“Tell me about a favourite piece of clothing”. This seems like an appropriate question sitting across from a diminutive Argentinean with a very unique, boho chic style. Milagros laughs and flashes me her gorgeous smile, eyes widening with delight. You can tell her mind is going crazy with imagery of her wardrobe. She looks down at her hands. “My rings!” she beams. I have to admit I’m not entirely surprised by this answer. It’s something I’ve always noticed about her, wondering what stories lay behind them. “If I don’t have my rings I feel like something’s missing.”

  Upon meeting Milagros you would never guess where she was from. Brought up in a very strict Catholic environment, the way she dresses now is a whole world away. Attending Catholic school her whole life she was restricted to wearing uniforms and wasn’t allowed to wear any jewellery. It all makes sense now. With a ring on every finger, she’s finally living out her teenage rebellion in full force.

  “I stop everywhere to look for rings”, she says in her slightly raspy Spanish accent.  You can imagine the size of her collection, constantly evolving as her travels take her around the world. Her favourite piece? One she acquired while in Portugal with her best friend. “We each bought one. I wear it every day”. And therein lies the story I was so curious to find out. It’s even better than I had imagined, a story of love and friendship. 

Milagros Blaquier showcasing her fabulous rings

[febgl]

The Making of a Magazine

Have you ever wondered the process involved in getting a magazine to print? All those glossy ads and desirable fashion shoots look so effortless as you flip through the pages of your favourite monthly. 

But if it were that easy, everyone would do it. I've learned it takes an army and a well oiled machine. The last three weeks @CNCollege we've been through the ins and the outs of how publications are run. We had the pleasure of stepping into the world of British Vogue to see how it all comes together and to meet the masterminds behind the engaging content that graces its pages month after month. To see how creativity and commerce come together to produce original, on-trend content year after year - impressive to say the least. 

Then we got our hands dirty, creating proposals for the February 2015 issue of a publication of our choosing. We chose British GQ. The result, after weeks of extensive research, generating ideas and then translating those into a fully brand-aligning pitch, was winning the Media Award for the recent Vogue Fashion Certificate at the Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design. 

Here, two of the pieces I played a major role in creating:

Cover mock up for the February 2015 issue of British GQ @CNCollege

Still Life shoot playing off of key colour trends for Spring/Summer 2015 

[febgl]

Living and Learning

The last six weeks have been some of the greatest of my life. Living and learning the business of fashion at the Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design, absorbing inspiration from all angles, all while living in London and going for my dreams. Brilliant.

In the studio @CNCollege shooting a still life for a British GQ project

Having written the first three posts that kicked off this blog, I now realize how much I had to learn and consequently how well I now speak the language of fashion. 

As a throwback to where I've come from and my journey in fashion so far, here are my early attempts at reviewing fashion, during the A/W 2014 shows at Vancouver Fashion Week. Such a great experience, such a rush. I'm so excited for more. 

http://blogs.theprovince.com/2014/03/20/vancouver-fashion-week-fallwinter-2014-day-one-eclectic-fashion-forward-and-mesmerizing/

http://blogs.theprovince.com/2014/03/21/vancouver-fashion-week-fallwinter-2014-day-two-inspiring-emerging-fashion-forward-talent/

http://blogs.theprovince.com/2014/03/22/vancouver-fashion-week-day-three-from-vintage-to-artistic-to-cultural-inspirations/

http://blogs.theprovince.com/2014/03/23/vancouver-fashion-week-fallwinter-2014-day-four-game-changers-and-risk-takers-make-for-striking-designs/

http://blogs.theprovince.com/2014/03/24/vancouver-fashion-week-fallwinter-2014-day-five-colourful-collections-and-original-design-concepts/

http://blogs.theprovince.com/2014/03/25/vancouver-fashion-week-fallwinter-2014-day-six-from-laid-back-cool-to-fairytale-glamour/

[febgl]

A modern, vibrant take on classic inspirations

The Burberry Spring/Summer 2015 collection was bursting with bright colours and refreshing references that had everyone eagerly anticipating the warmer months ahead. In “The Birds and The Bees”, Christopher Bailey was inspired by the insects and flowers of Britain, their “resilience, but also delicacy”, which he translated into classic, modern pieces in a vivid palette with pixie-like qualities. 

Fig. 1. Burberry's Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015

Vintage book covers inspired the heavily stylized prints seen on trenches throughout, adding a playful and distinctive character to the brand’s world-renowned insignia. As the company tries to maintain its exceptional growth record amidst an ever-uncertain global terrain, the use of such bright colours speaks to the vibrant nature of those in emerging markets. Countries like Brazil and India are critical to Burberry retaining its position in the race for luxury world domination. 

Fig. 2. Vintage book covers inspired the prints on Burberry's S/S15 trenches

Nostalgia is an essential and ever-present element in Burberry’s offerings season after season. The heritage is honoured in the finer details: belted cuff straps, epaulettes, button-tab back vents and check cotton lining. 

Fig. 3. Heritage-inspired features include back vents, epaulettes, cuff straps and check lining. 

Other historical referencing included the numerous takes on the classic denim jacket. Cropped versions with traditional finishings were given a modern edge with the use of contrasting high-gloss patent leather or feather trim, while others gave a nod to the late 19th century through wasp waist silhouettes and heritage-inspired chest pockets. Long pointed angles and pinched in waists, typical of women’s stays in the late 1830s and 40s, were depicted in Bailey’s modern take on America’s Wild West staple. And just as the corsets of the 1840s, the Burberry denim jacket stitches together close to the body to accentuate its contours. 

The choice to use a wasp waist seems far from Bailey’s inspiration of the birds and the bees, however. At a time when equality reigns as the main discussion among women, the reference to a piece of clothing meant to constrict a woman’s body seems a risky choice. Perhaps the use of the denim jacket, a sign of a rebellious, confident attitude, is meant to offset the constricting nature of the stays, re-framing its historic meaning, putting its power back into the hands of those it was meant to confine. 

Fig. 4. Wasp waists were fashioned after the corseted silhouettes of the 1800s

Bringing the collection straight into the present day were the new Field sneaker and sandal, the first time Burberry has taken a spin on the street-inspired footwear so de rigueur in fashion right now. 

Fig. 5. Sneakers and sandals were introduced along with the Bee bag.

What Christopher Bailey has done with this collection speaks volumes to his understanding of the need to bridge fashion and commerce seamlessly. Time and time again his collections make clear references to the heritage of the Burberry brand whilst creating classic and unique pieces that infuse a woman’s closet with a modern sensibility and a sense of belonging.

Although not as cutting edge as some may desire from a brand which has positioned itself as a trail blazer with the use of technology, what Bailey manages to accomplish is a consistent through-line from collection to collection that clearly speaks to Burberry’s clientele, appeasing their need for stylish attire for the modern world, and constantly reminding us of the strength of the Burberry brand. 

Fig. 6. Burberry Spring/Summer 2015 finale

[febgl]

Denim returns with confidence and sophistication

For Spring/Summer 2015 Christopher Bailey integrated an ever-present trend into his collection – denim. Decidedly laid-back, the jackets and trench coats sent down the runway were an acknowledgement of consumers’ inclination towards a more relaxed wardrobe for their hectic lives. There was one for every mood – a playful cropped version with high-gloss patent leather details, lady-like styles accentuated the torso with pinched in waists and shearling trim, and Bailey’s take on the denim trench featured heritage-inspired high-gloss bellow pockets on deep indigo. 

Fig 1. The denim jacket offerings by Burberry for spring/summer 2015

Other designers were under the same spell. At Gucci we saw styles from dresses to skirts and jumpsuits to cropped baggy jeans. Louis Vuitton’s take reflected the high-waisted style made popular in the 1950s, demure yet sexy. Roberto Cavalli paired a button down light-wash denim shirt over a bohemian white skirt, while Stella McCartney infused her DNA into a culottes jumpsuit. 

Fig. 2. L-R: Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Roberto Cavalli, Stella McCartnery. All spring/summer 2015.

But what is it about denim that has us coming back to it again and again? Traditionally a sign of a rebellious, kick ass attitude, the designs coming down the runway for Spring/Summer 2015 are sophisticated and poised. To think back to the 80s, when denim was unflattering and acid-washed, it’s hard to believe how far jeans have come. Once associated with frumpy moms short on time, in recent years jeans have gone through a major reinvention. Designer denim has taken the fabric and re-envisioned it as a sexy, modern staple – form fitting and flattering whilst still being functional. Modern-day armour for everyday life.

It could be said that the personality attributed to denim has something to do with the history of the garment, first as the workingman’s wardrobe of miners of the Gold Rush in the 1800s. Jeans, as they became known, were made popular by such films as Rebel Without a Cause and The Misfits in the 1950s, steeping denim with a coolness factor thanks to James Dean and Marilyn Monroe. Styles evolved from straight cut to skinny to wide-legged, but one thing always remained – the mystique of self-assurance when worn. 

Fig. 3. Denim has a long history but has always represented a cool, confident vibe. 

In recent seasons, we’ve seen a massive resurgence of denim on the street. Riding the tails of laidback style, induced by designer sleepwear and sports-luxe, relaxed dressing has now become fashionable no matter where you’re going. This has obviously bubbled up to the designer offering, translating into the numerous looks seen on recent runways.

One of the differences we’re seeing now, compared to the hip hop inspired trend of the 1990s, is that denim is being styled with high-end pieces, giving the paired-down look an air of sophistication never seen before. This is what makes the trend modern and fresh. Clean lines and crisp shirts with structured bags speak to the aesthetic of the modern woman and echoes the impact designer fashion has had in recent years. 

Fig. 4. Denim on the street is now being mixed with designer and fashion-forward elements for a sophisticated look. 

Denim as a trend has no beginning and no end. It’s like water and rain – it has a cyclical nature. It’s influenced by the street, but how denim is worn is also greatly influenced by how it is fashioned.

[febgl]

Art at first sight

At first sight, Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection seems to have been inspired by tribal ethnic art. However, Christopher Bailey insists that he took his inspiration from the colour blocking seen in British artist Henry Moore’s work. First impressions would be right though, as Moore was himself greatly influenced by the cubist art of Picasso, which in itself was incited by African and other non-European art and culture of the early 20th century. 

Fig. 1. Burberry's womenswear Spring/Summer 2012 collection.

The colour blocking referenced by Bailey can be seen in so many works by Moore, from the colour grading in his sculptures to, most notably, his body of work in textiles. 

Fig. 2. The colour blocking can be seen in Henry Moore's work, from his sculptures to textiles. 

Stemming from the austerity measures in Britain during the second World War, Henry Moore filled four sketchbooks with textile designs for his work in the Ascher project, which aimed to revitalize fabrics following the war. His creations were full of colour, unlike anything Moore had ever done before. Bright, vivid palettes in reds, yellows and greens filled the pages and, although most never made it to the printers, this moment in time is a perfect example of when art meets fashion. 

Fig. 3. Christopher Bailey was clearly inspired by the colour play in Moore's work.

Moore was best known as an abstract expressionist, however his early influences lay in cubism. Elements of these art movements can be seen all throughout the history of fashion, from early influences in the 1920s and ‘30s collections of Coco Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet and photographs by Cecil Beaton for Vogue in 1951, to the dramatic representation by Alexander McQueen in his Spring/Summer 1999 runway show. 

Fig. 4. Clockwise from left: Madeleine Vionnet (1938), Chanel (1925), Alexander McQueen (1999), photograph taken by Cecil Beaton (1951)

These movements were avant-garde, which in its essence reveals the desire of any artist representative of its time. Abstract expressionism and cubism aimed to experiment with new ideas and counter those prevalent at the time. Chanel, a friend of Picasso’s, the king of cubism, perfectly exemplifies this. Her entire raison d’être was to encourage a new way of thinking about how women dressed. Fashion eternally has the same aim.  

Fig. 5. L-R: Chanel (1934), Chanel (1970), Chanel (1930s)

Today these influences can be seen all throughout the fashion world, season after season. In our rapidly changing, overexposed world, consumers are constantly looking for ways to re-invent and express themselves. We’re in an era of constant evolution, where boundaries don’t exist and where influence comes from all angles. The result of that is a form of abstract expressionism for today’s modern world where people embrace spontaneity and creativeness, as did the artists of the abstract era, and use clothes to scream it from the rooftops. 

Fig. 6. Top: Oscar de la Renta Resort 2012, instagram post, BCBG Max Azria S/S 2010. Bottom: instagram post, Narciso Rodrigues A/W 2011, instagram post.