Phoebe English: Walking on New Ground
[By Alicia Mitchell]
The much accoladed young British designer Phoebe English has been moving from strength to strength since showing her Central St Martins MA collection in 2010. Her work has been typified by an energetic fusion of texture and surface, and her AW12/13 collection marks an accomplished development in her style.
Her experimentation with materials has been one of English's most defining features, though in previous collections experimentation was tempered by the conventional requirement of evening dress and forms associated with the 'feminine'. Working with latex, sand-washed viscose, wool felt and knits made from tights, English has added to her range of materials and her forms have matched this progression.
In an interview with Dazed Digital magazine, English explained the influences that led to the bulkier, more voluminous designs for her latest collection. The long walk to her semi-renovated Hackney studio inspired the design processes of the day; it was this 'repetitive treading, almost marching movement' that led to 'heavy, slightly utilitarian feel and boxy shapes'.
Whereas her previous works have used fibrous, distressed calico and draped synthetics, reminiscent of flowing hair, to reveal and accentuate the form of the wearer, for AW12/13 English has approached a new notion of sexuality, raising questions about our reflexive assumptions about the 'feminine'.
The only colour to feature in this predominantly black collection is pink, in a spectrum of shades from flamingo to candy floss. Used all at once, over and under each other, these vibrant pieces are a major diversion from English's previously monochrome path.
Chunky, asymmetric waistbands and weighty layers repeat throughout, and conceal the body beneath an alluring variety of surfaces. The unrelenting trend for transparent elements is found in English's work too, though rather than settling with safe, sheer gauzes and lace English embraces the fetishistic and medicinal by incorporating translucent latex and woven rubber into tailored, all-black designs.
Phoebe English has received both the L'Oreal Professional Creative Award and Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Merit Award. Her work is attracting well deserved attention and is available for sale in the home of London avant-garde design, Dover Street Market.
All images copyright: Rose Easton for Phoebe English.
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