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Phoebe English: Walking on New Ground

[By Alicia Mitchell]

The much accoladed young British designer Phoebe English has been moving from strength to strength since showing her Central St Martins MA collection in 2010. Her work has been typified by an energetic fusion of texture and surface, and her AW12/13 collection marks an accomplished development in her style.

Her experimentation with materials has been one of English's most defining features, though in previous collections experimentation was tempered by the conventional requirement of evening dress and forms associated with the 'feminine'. Working with latex, sand-washed viscose, wool felt and knits made from tights, English has added to her range of materials and her forms have matched this progression.

In an interview with Dazed Digital magazine, English explained the influences that led to the bulkier, more voluminous designs for her latest collection. The long walk to her semi-renovated Hackney studio inspired the design processes of the day; it was this 'repetitive treading, almost marching movement' that led to 'heavy, slightly utilitarian feel and boxy shapes'.

Whereas her previous works have used fibrous, distressed calico and draped synthetics, reminiscent of flowing hair, to reveal and accentuate the form of the wearer, for AW12/13 English has approached a new notion of sexuality, raising questions about our reflexive assumptions about the 'feminine'.

The only colour to feature in this predominantly black collection is pink, in a spectrum of shades from flamingo to candy floss. Used all at once, over and under each other, these vibrant pieces are a major diversion from English's previously monochrome path.

Chunky, asymmetric waistbands and weighty layers repeat throughout, and conceal the body beneath an alluring variety of surfaces. The unrelenting trend for transparent elements is found in English's work too, though rather than settling with safe, sheer gauzes and lace English embraces the fetishistic and medicinal by incorporating translucent latex and woven rubber into tailored, all-black designs.

Phoebe English has received both the L'Oreal Professional Creative Award and Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Merit Award. Her work is attracting well deserved attention and is available for sale in the home of London avant-garde design, Dover Street Market.

All images copyright: Rose Easton for Phoebe English.

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From Somewhere: the Excesses of Fashion

[By Simran Gill]

From Somewhere is an eco-conscious fashion label that uses pre-consumer waste to produce avant-garde ensembles for the high-street consumer. Its objective is to blur the lines between production and disposal whilst simultaneously tackling environmental problems and industry wastage. 

Orsola De Castro and Filippo Ricci, the high profile thinkers behind this boutique brand are also the founders of The British Fashion Council Estethica at London Fashion Week. They draw inspiration from up-scaling post-production excess into an outfit that is wearable, stylish and desirable.

Each of its pieces is made up of the waste found on the floors of iconic fashion houses, production lines and factories. Whether it be discarded surplus or swatches, it can be used to reproduce not only one piece, but the entirety of a collection.

Despite heading in the sustainability direction, From Somewhere’s collections showcases luxurious silks, jerseys, tweets, cashmeres and cottons and finished pieces that are in line with the conventional definition of Haute Couture as used by Karl Lagerfeld and YSL.

Neither the experienced nor untrained eye is able to fathom the collections sustainable production, so reminiscent to high fashion the pieces are, and that is where its charm lies.

The high quality fabrics found in its SS12 collection are beautiful and luxurious. A handful of black dresses that mesh a spectrum of fabrics and textures together provide an alternative and contemporary take on the traditional LBD. The collection also platforms tailored shorts with bold and striking panels of colour and an amalgamation of Aztec and tribal prints on striped cardigans and blouses.

The brand has collaborated with Speedo to cultivate looks that encapsulate Lycra, sustainability and high fashion all into one guise. Using Speedo’s excess stock, From Somewhere redefined the impression of swim wear with its limited edition collection of flirty dresses, monochrome cocktail dresses and day wear.

From Somewhere’s collections are also stocked in Tesco, Yoox and boutiques worldwide. With an impressive consumer-base that is made up of the average shopper and red-carpet clients, including Livia Firth, the brand looks set to evolve in months to come.

All images copyright: From Somewhere.

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Steven Tai's reinvention of geek chic

[By Sarah Moriarty]

Canadian designer Steven Tai wowed crowds at this season’s Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin with his SS13 collection. The line, which harnesses a soft librarian aesthetic , is a clever, sophisticated reinvention of geek chic. The collection features over-sized pieces, a creamy muted color palate and floating, asymmetrical elements.

Inspired by the techniques of bookbinding, Tai experimented with layering to create striking, multi-faceted silhouettes. Using light, floaty materials, the pieces create an effect reminiscent of flicking through the pages of a book. Furthermore, the collection re-conceptualises quintessential 'geek' items; the traditional sweater vest is reinterpreted as a layered, oversized statement piece while white shirts are either cropped or blown up and expanded with ruched detailing and asymmetrical tailoring. Voluminous jackets add drama to the collection while sleeves and pant-legs end a little bit short, creating a playfully awkward look.

The models walked the runway in flat, comfortable, lace-up ankle boots and wore simple gold glasses in a variety of styles – from large square 70s-inspired frames to striking John Lennon-style circular specs. The combined effect of these details ensures that Tai reaches his self-professed aim: to create a “confident nerd” look.

A Central Saint Martins graduate, Tai cut his teeth at Bless, Viktor & Rolf and Stella McCartney while simultaneously working on his own creations. The young designer won the prestigious Chloé prize in Hyères in 2012. As a designer, his work has been featured in a number of high-profile fashion publications including Vogue, Elle and Dazed and Confused. He has revealed that he draws inspiration from the mundane aspects of everyday life. His striking, innovative, bookish SS13 collection proves that he is definitely a burgeoning designer to watch.

To contact Steven Tai email steven[@]steventai.co.uk.

All photos copyright: Mercedez Benz Berlin Fashion Week

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A Celebration of Feminine Sophistication – Perret Schaad

[By Kamila Przybylski]

Exceptional craftsmanship, a minimalist design vocabulary and an ingenious interplay of contradictions with regards to colours, fabrics, and shapes: Perret Schaad is exemplary for feminine sophistication with a touch of understated elegance.

Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad studied fashion design at the art college Berlin-Weißensee. After graduating in 2009, and broadening their creative horizons at renowned establishments like Givenchy, Gaspard Yurkievich and Swash London, they founded their own fashion label in the very same year. Ever since then, their label Perret Schaad has belonged to the essence of the Berlin fashion scene. It didn't take long for the designers to qualify for the Baltic Fashion Award and for the Create Europe Award. In January 2010, the creative duo was invited by the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin to present their debut Autumn/Winter collection.

Perret Schaad’s approach is contingent on respect for traditional handcraft and technique along with an untamable eagerness to break the rules. Their individual perception of beauty, their creative curiosity, and inclination to experimentation sets avant-garde fashion statements while redefining purism and comfort in a nonchalant but elegant manner. Pattern cutting, draping fabric and devising elaborate details are the duo’s fundamentals in order to express their timeless esthetics.

The designers’ completely intuitive design process introduces fluidity into an overall sculptural, well-structured style. Their significant colour combinations and elaborate fabric layering techniques generate unique compositions: Bright colours encounter mellow shades; natural fabrics meet innovative materials. A perfect symbiosis of contradictions represents their philosophy of fashion design.

Perret Schaad’s summer collection 2013 unites subtlety with sophistication; their delicate looks are discrete, understated, however afford bold accents. Further interplay of contrasts showcases unpretentious box-shaped tops and coats teamed up with simple A-line skirts: an arrangement that generates tensions through ingeniously worked, flowing silk materials and robust fabrics of beautiful textile appearance.

Zigzags, asymmetric necklines and zippers spice up the otherwise clear cuts and simple designs. Silky collarless jackets are bouffant featuring puffy sleeves. Biker jackets and rough cord sweaters equipped with asymmetric zippers are combined with delicate, wide swinging silk skirts. Ultra-feminine dresses offer elaborate details, while wide-leg silk pants round out Perret Schaad’s repertoire. A muted colour palette, allowing only a few bright shaded creations, contributes to the understated elegance of this summer collection.

Perret Schaad is available is stores throughout Germany and Europe. 

All images copyright: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

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Anthony Vaccarello: True to Form

[By Danica Copplestone]

Anthony Vaccarello has been making waves amongst the fashion crowd with his expertly crafted and sexy tailoring since 2006, when he blew away the likes of Maria Luisa and Ann Demeulemeester claiming the grand prize at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography. In the same year he graduated from La Cambre, winning the attention of Karl Lagerfeld, where he was snatched up to design fur at Fendi.

After a two year stint the Belgian-born designer decided to branch out on his own and left for Paris, founding his own label. It was then that Vaccarello first presented a capsule collection of miniskirts in the display windows of the Maria Luisa boutique in Paris. Soon after Vaccarello and his friend, model Lou Doillon agreed to do an impromptu photo shoot on the streets of Paris, which led to her being the face of his 2010 Winter collection.

Vaccarello has earned an inspiring amount of support from friends in the fashion industry, and after winning the 2011 ANDAM Fashion Award, he chose his friend and model Anja Rubik to be the face of the advertising campaign for his La Redoute collections. But it was the stunningly sexy dress worn on the back of his friend and model Karlie Kloss during his highly praised SS12 collection that catapulted him to star status; the same dress that made its way onto Gwyneth Paltrow for the cover of Harper’s Bazaar.

For AW12/13 Vaccarello has focused on the continuity of his image, presenting a highly tailored collection in a stunning, mostly Bleu Marine satin, with luxe emerald green and gold Lamé pieces, delivering his cut-out asymmetry, true to form. Vaccarello designs for the strong and confidant women, who dresses for herself, and this is evident in every intricate, sensual, and intoxicating piece in his collection.

Vaccarello had classic fifties lingerie in mind when he added the complex, form-hugging corset skirts combining leather, satin and straps to the collection, and he re-worked classic masculine pieces, such as the blazer to embracing a body-caressing aesthetic that shattered convention; combined with an overall military influence, the collection was nothing short of exceptional.

Anthony Vaccarello can be bought at Colette, Le Bon Marché, Browns and a number of stockists, which can be found on his website.

All images copyright:  Shoji Fujii for Anthony Vaccarello.

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Valquire Veljkovic: Working on a Vibrant Stage

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Valquire Veljkovic has transformed what began as a hobby into an impressive portfolio of fashion and street photography, and is now one of Berlin's most exciting emerging talents. Setting out recording punk parties and experimenting with street photography, Veljkovic's style has progressed over the past ten years, and the metamorphosis is still not complete.

'Magical Realism 2' - Tata Christiane

Despite his practical experience and success Veljkovic still sees himself at the very beginning of his photographic career and has no fear of change. His current ambition is to integrate mixed media more completely into his work, utilising video and installations into shootings. He also aims to move away from the professional studio set-up, with its artificial lighting and expensive digital cameras, and to experiment with analogue photography and the spontaneity of compact cameras.

  'Iqon in Cabin Fever'

Collaboration is central to Valquire's work, and recent projects with Berlin's Tata Christiane has brought increased attention to his talents. The dream-like light plays that have so far typified Veljkovic's fashion work finds a perfect pairing in Tata Christiane's fantastical, colourful constructions. Starting with an initial concept, Veljkovic improvises once shooting has begun to expand upon the original idea and create something organic; an instinctive response to the client and clothing.

'Magical Realism 3' - Tata Christiane

Working in Berlin, Veljkovic appreciates what he sees as a 'vital stage' in the city's cultural and social history. Although he resists being swept along with the often overwhelming and over-abundant artistic scene of the German capital, he is inspired by the special 'pearls' that can be found in the corners of Berlin.

  'Planet Masks'

Being a photographer in a city like Berlin is not always easy, and he rues the reliance upon unpaid work within the cultural sector and the tendency to undervalue and endlessly reproduce digital imagery. Its a complaint heard in many areas of the arts here, but Valquire is determined to take a stand.

With an impressive collection of work already under his belt we hope that he can continue to prove his value and pave the way for other emerging photographers working hard to make our world more beautiful.

All images copyright: Valquire Veljkovic.

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Cornelia Webb: drawing the inside out

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Cornelia Webb's path into jewellery design is far from typical though utterly integral to her style. Beginning whilst she was studying medicine, Webb's hobby has since become a successful brand which focusses on 'dressing the body' in carefully crafted metal.

Her anatomical background is the underlying element that draws each collection together. Webb's pieces do not merely decorate the surface, but by tracing the form of the body and reflecting its internal structure they become integrated with the wearer's movement.

Webb frequently plays with contrasts in her work. Her draped chain dresses simultaneously bring to mind heavy-duty chain male armour and slack strands of glittering spider web. The recurrent looping of the chains, emanating from the centre of the chest, imitate the structure of the rib cage beneath. Such fine threads remind us of the fragility of the body encased within, drawing the inside out.

Confronting the physical matter of the body is something we often avoid until an accident or illness brings it to the fore and forces us to acknowledge the impermanent condition of the biological self. However, Webb's medical experience enables her to grip this paradox of self-delusion and use it to her advantage. By bringing out attention to this strange lack of awareness she manages to create jewellery with a profound impact.

Other pieces imitate the panelled construction of dresses and vests. Once again, through gentle suggestion, these pieces lead the mind to consider the status of the body and the layers we cover it with. These skeletal constructions accentuate the clothes they are matched with, rather than drawing our eyes away from them.

Having already been featured in ELLE, Vogue and L'Officiel Webb is clearly doing something right. In 2011 ELLE awarded her the prize for Best Accessory Designer. Body jewellery has been a growing trend in recent years, and it is naturally a challenge to stand out in the crowded accessories market. Having started her label in 2006, Cornelia Webb was one of the leading figures in the development of this trend. Her unique insight into our bodies and her typical Scandinavian eye for simplicity will hopefully continue her journey to success.

Cornelia Webb jewellery is available via the on-line shop and in international retailers.

All images copyright: Cornelia Webb.

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LAURENCEAIRLINE: African Connection

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Laurence Chavin-Buthaud was born in the Côte d'Ivoire . Her family still live in the country and since completing a degree in Fashion Design at the Studio Berçot, Paris, Laurence has returned home to set up her ethically motivated fashion label, LAURENCEAIRLINE.

Manufactured in the label's own workshop by a team of local craftspeople, the collections are a product of Laurence's strong affection for her motherland. Due to the political and social issues in the Côte d'Ivoire , education is still largely inaccessible to the majority of the population. Laurence's workshop provides training in couture sewing techniques which expands upon the already self-taught skills of the workers there.

The result is a active exploration and collaboration between traditional and modern techniques. The structure of the workshop encourages exchange, and 100% of profit is reinvested back into the project. Laurence hopes that through her designs she can connect African culture with the global fashion industry, and draw attention to both the problems and successes of her country.

Previous collections have focused on innovative experimentation with shirts and trousers. Laurence continues this aesthetic with the latest SS13 collection, 'Koutoukou', and takes further steps forward in her playful interpretations of these traditional items.

Taking its name from an Ivorian spirit, the collection is full of tropical influences. The vibrant and controlled palette of teals, navy blue, orange and softer corals suffuses the designs in the warmth of the equatorial sun, yet the traditional damask cotton Bazin and waxed cotton of the garments keeps the wearer cool even at the most heated cocktail party.

The contrasting surfaces of shiny Bazin and matt cotton and poplin combined with the variety of pattern drawn from Baroque Maroccan frescoes and repeated fan prints break the shirts out of the confines of their subtle tailoring and ensure that no detail goes unnoticed.

  Since gaining independence from France in 1960 the Côte d'Ivoire has undergone many changes and conflicts. Establishing a successful fashion label in a country so recently divided by civil war is a challenge most young designers would never encounter. But despite the chaos and shock the gripped the country in 2011 Laurence and her workshop have succeeded in completing and presenting three stunning collections during Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Although balancing humanitarian values, social responsibility and the demanding schedule of the industry is a constant battle, Laurence Chavin-Buthaud's motivation and unique vision will undoubtedly bring her international success. Here is a label that should not be missed.

LAURENCEAIRLINE is available in stores across the world and will soon be available online.

All images copyright: Philippe Galowich for LAURENCEAIRLINE.

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Sacai: A Complex Look

[By Danica Copplestone]

Chitose Abe has been strategically building momentum since she began her label, Sacai, in 1999. Until recently Abe has avoided the spotlight, instead focusing on garnering a loyal fan base worldwide, before brandishing her first ever runway show in 2010, presenting an Autumn/Winter collection in Paris to an enthusiastic audience and excellent reviews.

Abe spent eight years working with Junja Watanabe at Comme Des Garçons, cultivating her knitwear technique before branching off on her own. In 2007 she was given the Grand Prix of the 25th Mainichi Newspaper Fashion Award, and in 2009 she was made Designer of the Year by the Fashion Editor’s Club of Japan. By September 2011, Sacai opened their first flagship store in Minamiaoyama, Tokyo, housing not only her main line, but the Sacai Luck collection of lingerie and loungewear, and her men’s collection.

For Abe, who is influenced by her surroundings and daily life, Sacai’s AW 12/13 collection is a juxtaposition of different textures and fabrics inspired by classic pieces that create a unique elegance to her garments. Abe’s cleverness with layering opposing textiles and shapes has inspired a strong collection of transitional pieces that could be worn for all manner of occasions.

Abe has built upon staples, like the motorcycle jacket made new by an abundance of shearling spilling out of the front. There were prim menswear pinstripes underneath oversized, asymmetrical cardigans and jumpers. All this paired with a variety of shapes in satin and lace skirts, some with cascading ruffles, and others with peek-a-boo pleats that make for a complex, yet seamless look. All of her clothing from the collection could be pulled on as easy as a sweater to add to the infinite appeal of effortless wearability.

Sacai is sold at Colette and Dover Street Market, as well as a variety of shops worldwide. Visit the Sacai website to view stockists and the complete Sacai collection.

All images copyright: Junichi Akahira for Sacai.

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UNTTLD: Unexplained

[By Eden van den Bogaard]

French-Canadian collaboration UNTTLD have created quite a following since their collection was shown at Montréal Fashion Week earlier this year. It seems as though the creative-duo’s rich Québécois heritage has served them well, providing a creative platform for their unruly talent. José Manuel St-Jacques and Simon Bélanger are the two parts of the collaborative work that forms UNTTLD.

Both designers chose a unique path which lead them to their current success. José graduated at Cégep Marie Victorin in Fashion design and later attended Concordia University, with the aim of broadening his knowledge of textiles and technique in the Faculty of Fines Arts’ Fibre program. Simon graduated from LaSalle College’s Fashion Design program, and attained a Masters at the Domus Academy in Milan. Following their studies, they decided to collaborate on their own label.

There’s no doubt that UNTTLD creates high quality statement pieces meant for the strong and confident consumer. The AW12/13 collection utilises a bold mix of fur, wool, leather, suede, silk, and chained metals. The brand’s design has a sharp sense of belief in oneself, and it shows. If they continue to develop with strong materials and daring cuts, these young designers are bound to have a promising future.

Their manifesto goes as follows:

‘Unexplained unnamed unashamed unrestrained untamed

Untold unfixed unhip

Undressed unrepressed

Unconventional unconditional unpredictable

Unconscious

Unreal unruled unaged

Undefined unclassified

Unscripted unsuspected

Unorthodox

Uncoded unbranded unlabeled’

UNTITLED

UNTTLD is available at Quai 417 in Montréal as well as online at SSENSE. You can also take a look at their blog to get your fill of beautiful ‘unspiration’.

All images copyright: Shayne Laverdière for UNTTLD.

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Dreams of Norway: Coveted Jewels

[By Cynthia Rodriguez]

Iselin Strømsvåg and Nina Einarsen know that accessories do not have to be simple pieces of jewelry that complement an outfit. Through their designs, Dreams of Norway has evolved the concept of jewelry from being the sidekick to being the show-stopping piece.

According to Not Just a Label, their designs are “inspired by the…varied Norwegian nature.” With materials such as “silver, stone, Swarovski Crystals, feathers, wood, horn and leather,” their designs perfectly mesh the rough with the delicate in one article of jewellery.

The European Magpie inspired their Spring/Summer 2012 collection, birds known for stealing and guarding shiny objects. With the majority of their materials consisting of crystal, silver, opal and quartz, this seasons’ collection is definitely shiny and may have your friends wanting to steal your secret.

But no need to worry, since each piece of jewellery is handmade: every necklace, bracelet, earring and body piece of their Possessions/Obsessions collection is unique, even if you purchase two of the same items, they will not be the same.

Dreams of Norway’s unique characteristics don’t end there. The way their jewellery is worn is what makes it so fun to wear. Symmetry is outdated and forgotten with their approach of selling a single earring without its pair: in their previous Dark Night, Crescent Moon collection, a silver crescent earring with black rooster feathers attached all along the edge was paired with a simple silver stud for the other ear.

To them, bracelets are not a simple band around the wrist. They spice their leather bands with metal rivets and goose feathers. However, their signature piece are their hand pieces, which consist of a silver plated chain that wraps around your middle finger and clasps around your wrist. Add one of their to-die-for quartz rings and your outfit is set.

The most steal worthy accessory is their body piece, which has the ability to transform a very simple dress into an elegant one. Simply slip the chain of opal and leather over a simple silhouette and keep tabs on how many people stop to admire.

Dreams of Norway designs are stocked online and in stores across Norway, Australia and the United States.

All images copyright: Dreams of Norway.

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'C' by Cliff Lee: Beautiful Understatement

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Despite having experienced life in cities all over the world, Cliff Lee's heart lies well and truly in Paris. Lee's previous homes include Tokyo, Munich, New York, Vancouver and Milan, yet it is the 'city of lights' that persistently holds his attention.

The young designer's haute-couture label expresses the timeless elegance so often associated with the city expertly through the high quality materials and muted, dark shades that dominate his latest collection, 'C'.

Constructed exclusively out of fine knits and luxuriously soft leather, the collection holds true to Lee's commitment to wearability. Aiming to create pieces that can seamlessly integrate into his clients' current wardrobe, Lee's work is characterised by beautiful understatement and layering.

In a recent interview with State of Style, Lee's cites the artistic technique of trompe l'oeil as a strong influence on his designs. Hidden within Lee's pieces are sophisticated cuts that reveal surprises upon closer inspection. Although his work is imbued with the historic reputation of French style, these playful additions and his skilful control of line and cut ensure that his collections are consistently new and unique.

Coming fresh from the TJ Showroom in Laussanne, 'C' by Cliff Lee will be on show at the FIER Showroom SS13 during Berlin Fashion Week, July 5th - 7th.

All photographs copyright: Cliff Lee.

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Sasha Kanevski: Phenomenal

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Sasha Kanevski is a designer whose work is explicitly contemporary. He describes his collections as reactions to phenomena of subculture, thus ensuring an immediate, of the moment feel to each piece. Kanevski's label, sasha.kanevski, does not follow trends, but exists in instantaneous present in which they are formed.

Kanevski grew up on Kiev, Ukraine, and studied Fashion Design at the Kiev National University of Technologies and Design. Since graduating he has completed internships in Moscow and New York, had mentions in both Vogue Italia and Vogue Russia, and was a winner of the Harper's Bazaar Fashion Forward award in 2010.

Previous themes explored by Kanevski include fashion in a post-aplcalyptic world, and pieces inspired by fishing. Obviously, Kanevski's sources of inspiration are wide and ecclectic. For his SS13 collection, the designer sites 1980's classics the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and The Toxic Avenger as major influences on his design process.

Considering the potential for ecological catastrophe as a result of intentional genetic manipulation and random mutation of DNA, Kanevski's latest work imagines the position of the human body and clothing in a world where mutation has taken place, and we are no longer purely homo sapiens.

Sasha.kanevski designs are focused around a core philosophy of functionality. Never over-laden with fussy details, Kanevski's vision is defined by elegant designs with an urban edge. His controlled colour schemes and talented combinations of materials imbues each piece with a distinctive style despite the variety of inspiration.

The new sasha.kanevski SS13 collection will be shown during Berlin Fashion Week at the FIER Showroom SS13, held at The Wye, Skalitzerstr. 86, Berlin.

Images: AW12/13, AW12/13, SS13.

All images copyright: Sasha Kanevski.

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Re-imagined Brazilian Headpieces: 'Carmen Miranda is Missing Her Banana Headscarf!'

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Stylist, designer and art director Raki Fernandez recently made a trip to Brazil, and whilst there was infused with the dancing, magical spirit of the original carnival culture. Before returning home she collected 7 of the special metal supporting structures that are the base of the world-famous carnival headpeices.

  Bringing them back to Berlin with her, Fernandez recruited the talents of 6 other artists, fashion designers and costume designers to re-interpret the traditional costume pieces into something totally new. The challenge was to resist all temptation to simply recycle the style and techniques of their Brazilian forebears, and instead create a personal response to the medium.

Using the opulent and surreal final pieces the talented fashion photographer Valquire Veljkovic went on to shoot a atmospheric series that shows off the glamour and spirit of each artist's creation. Together these works form the humorously named exhibition 'Carmen Miranda is Missing Her Banana Headscarf!'.

Participating designers and artists: Tata Christiane, Mads Dinesen, Rubbish Fairy, Jackie Taylor, Raki, Baby Bone, Bim Arnby.

The exhibition will be on show at the FIER Showroom SS13, during Berlin Fashion Week, July 5th - 7th 2012.

All images copyright: Valquire Veljkovic.

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Mr Gugu and Miss Go: A guiding light

[By FIER Management]

Jakub Helwecki, the creator of the Polish label Mr Gugu and Miss Go, has never attended fashion school or completed any fashion internships, he 'just makes clothes'.

Driven by a philosophy that revolves around good looks leading to good life, attributed to the mysteriously untraceable 'Vataman Gugu Fuckara, the Philosopher', Helwecki's aim is to get the youth of Europe to be the best dressed in the world: 'fresh, brave, original, and self-confident'.

The premise behind the name is two characters, a husband and wife team, beautiful and brilliant, who hope to lead us towards original, refreshing fashion not only of today, but for the future too. Helwecki rejects the tendency for successful labels to recycle their trusted formulas, resulting in copy-cat looks and homogeneity. Using a simple method of sourcing unusual prints and images, his designs are constantly evolving and every item offers a fresh new interpretation.

Helwecki's work shows that there are more unconventional routes to be taken into the fashion industry. A good eye for design and colour combined with a keen sense of contemporary trends and cuts enables the designer to create collections that are both highly modern and saleable.

The latest Mr Gugu and Miss Go collection will be shown during Berlin Fashion Week at the FIER Showroom SS13, held at The Wye, Skalitzerstr. 86, Berlin.

All images copyright: Mr Gugu and Miss Go.

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Pascale Cornu: the controllable and the wild

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Pascale Cornu draws her inspirations from a totally different area – the wild forests of Jura, Switzerland, and the distinctive art nouveau style that originated in the area at the beginning of the 20th century: 'Style Sapin'.

Style Sapin draws iconography from the pine trees that characterise the Jura landscape, and is where Cornu found the focus of her collection. By combining natural materials, including hemp, wool, cotton and cork, with graphic prints and patchworks that draw their forms from the recurring geometry of the pine forests, Cornu explores the relationship between the controllable and the wild.

This carefully constructed order, made from the raw materials sourced from the apparent chaos of nature, draws out attention to the symbiosis of human production and the geological and biological systems that we operate in.

With their unflinching monochrome geometry, Cornu's pieces do not immediately strike you as being made from natural materials. In fact, their simple forms and unique embellishments suggest a a futuristic design commonly associated with synthetics. With her SS13 collection Cornu succeeds in proving that contemporary fashion can still have a genuine connection with the environment without sacrificing on original aesthetics.

Having recently shown her work at the TJ Showroom, Lausanne, Pascale Cornu will be showing her latest collection during Berlin Fashion Week at the FIER Showroom SS13, held at The Wye, Skalitzerstr. 86, Berlin.

All images copyright: Fabrice Davit for Pascale Cornu.

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Tamara Pérez: infinite options

[By Alicia Mitchell]

Tamara Pérez will never be finished. She describes her collections as ongoing experimentation, the exploitation of 'infinite technical options', rather than the completion of the creative process.

Technology is one of the key inspirations behind her work, as she addresses the conflicts within materialism and fashion, played out on the battle ground of the human body. On the one hand there is the simple desire for a healthy life, and on the other, the extreme expansion of technology and the demand for bodily perfection.

In her SS13 collection 'Appearance Max' Pérez utilises materials commonly found in high-tech sportswear combined with rich silks to demonstrate not only the technological developments in sports and health, and the impact they have on our bodies, but also to highlight the implicit luxury and status of these pursuits.

Her cuts are elegant and tailored, using structured blocks of colour that again evoke sports and utility clothing. The silhouette is stiff and architectural, referencing the ideals of body as machine, whilst still retaining an element of softness through sweeping curves.

Having just shown at the TJ Showroom, Lausanne, Tamara Pérez will now be showing her latest collection during Berlin Fashion Week at the FIER Showroom SS13, held at The Wye, Skalitzerstr. 86, Berlin.

All images copyright: Fabrice Davit for Tamara Pérez.

Original Article