A turn around video for the Spiritseer, I'm really happy with how the gold turned out on the model, and the smooth blending on the sword. Thank you to everyone who has liked and reblogged my work lately, it means so very much to me!
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A turn around video for the Spiritseer, I'm really happy with how the gold turned out on the model, and the smooth blending on the sword. Thank you to everyone who has liked and reblogged my work lately, it means so very much to me!
The turn-around video of the Spiritseer. I'm really pleased with how bright the gold turned out, and the nice subtle hues in the black.
To lead mighty wraiths into battle, the Eldar call upon the Spiritseers, those who guide the ghost warriors of the Craftworlds to battle, that the dead may fight for the living.
A short turn-around video of my classic Farseer. I'm really pleased with the patterning on the fabric, and the blades.
A classic Eldar Farseer with a few minor modifications. The paint scheme is fairly basic, but not bad for slipping in during other larger projects.
The video turn-around for the Ctan Shard of the Void Dragon. Done on commission for a local friend. Check my previous post for the still images.
The video turn-around for the Ctan Shard of the Void Dragon. Done on commission for a local friend. Check my previous post for the still images!
The Ctan Shard of the Void Dragon. Done on commission for a local friend. I used a combination of color shifting metallic paints, dark metallic, the blackest black paint, and heavy object source lighting to get a visually stunning result in a quick turn-around time. Keep an eye out for the video tomorrow!
Highlander be ballin’
a commission for Mr.Screws on discord!
The addition of oil paints adds depth and shading in a delightful way. I used some of the tutorials done by Night Shift on YouTube, who breaks down complex techniques into steps that even I could follow! The pictures never seem to do the work justice though.
https://www.youtube.com/c/NightShiftScaleModels
Following the base layers comes the time for details. The decals used came from Fallout Hobbies, https://www.fallouthobbies.com/ and are really well made. I found the decals to be very durable. The decals look a little obvious at this stage, but they will blend in further shortly.
The process of laying down the base colors takes time, but slowly the project moved forward. Each bit of time preparing the machine for further glories.
the benefit of drinking coffee is that it unlocks pathways in your brain that were previously inaccessible to you. the problem is that some of those roads were closed for a reason.
The beginnings of painting. Everything was base-coated black using Rustoleum flat black primer. Following the priming I gave the armor panels an under-coat of white acrylic ink through the airbrush. The ink makes a fantastic foundation and goes on smoother and clearer than any other white paint I have made use of.
More preparations this week, making sure the weapons were all fitting together. The volcano cannons unfortunately were missing a few details, but they were easy enough to replace with a piece of a pin, and soon enough everything was almost ready for paint!
This part was a real challenge to get lined up how I wanted it. I built each leg separately, as well as the feet. The toes were reinforced with a length of brass rod, and everything was glued together with JB Weld epoxy. After getting everything in place and balanced the magnet in the hip joint heled everything steady while it dried. Once it was dried I carefully drilled a hole into the knee joint and into the ankle joint and used a length of 3/32 brass rod to make sure it would be nice and solid.
With the titan, I wanted to ensure that I would be able to swap the weapon options that were with it, and so with the help of a good friend a solution was found. The shoulders are reinforced with 3/32″ thick brass rod, set in place using a 1/8″ drill bit. The holes on the shoulders from the drills were hidden using a mix of modeling putty and super glue, and on the inside of the body they are hidden by the servitor housings. The upper body was assembled with a mix of two part epoxy and super glue, depending on the amount of weight it would be supporting, and all gaps were filled with JB Weld Kwik Wood, due to it’s quick working time and easily workable surfaces.