I don't know if tumblr ate my last ask but if it did THAT IS OK. I have questions I actually couldn't answer by looking through your archives. 1- How do the eyelids go in and open/close in unison? The way i have the lids now they keep falling out and don't move together. 2- How do I keep the eyes from moving forward and backward once they are installed in the head? Without support they shake as if it were an earthquake :x
(Given the last ask I figure you donât need this any more, but Iâll go ahead and post in the event that someone else wants this info!)
Iâve used a couple different techniques in different masksâ
The first thing youâll want to do is give your eyelids an axis of rotation. If you have a drill or Dremel on hand, make holes on opposite sides of each lid, near the rim, and poke your paper fasteners or other similarly shaped objects through the holes:
If no hole-making tool is available, hot glue works decently well, especially if you reinforce it:
The pins will stick into the foamcore base on either side of each eye, such that the lid can rotate freely around the eyeball (until it hits the eye stalk or support)Â It should be able to at least make a full blink without running into anything.Â
The final templates will have markers for where the pins go, but for now youâre on your own (itâs pretty easy to figure out once you see what youâre doing though)
As for the mechanisms themselves: I did it a couple different ways on different masks.
Foxy 1.0 has a single servo which pulls the eyes open (with fishing line cables threaded through the mask) when it turns one way, and pulls them closed when it turns the other. This generates a lot of friction and not all that much movement, so overall I donât recommend it.
ShadowBun also has a single servo, this time connected to each lid with stiff metal wires. The wires are the same length and shape, so the eyes move in unison. Because thereâs very little friction (the wires are going through holes in the faceplate that are wide enough for them to pass freely) the servo can move them as quickly as needed. I actually had to slow down the blinking in the code, because I wanted something a little smoother. (Blinking mechanism is at about 1:05)
(Note that the four new templates are different than ShadowBun and Springtrap in that the eyeballs are on the inside of the faceplate. Youâll need to adjust your mechanism accordingly.)
Foxy 2.0 has one servo per eye. Theyâre set up similarly to ShadowBunâs, with each servo arm connected to a stiff wire which moves the lid up and down. From inside the mask:
The servos can be programmed to move together, but they could also be told to wink, or do a sleepy blink, or anything that requires the eyelids to act independently of each other (things that are not possible with a single servo setup). I havenât done any of that with Foxy, but that doesnât mean you shouldnât!
On to the second thing: To keep the eyes from wobbling, you need to stabilize them up near the eye. Theyâre already constrained at the base. For the original chica template I had some loop pieces that clipped into the faceplateâŠbut they disappeared somewhere in the evolution of these new masks ._. Itâs another thing Iâll need to go back and add in to all the new templates, but like the lid supports itâs something thatâs fairly easy to freehand (I donât have any great pictures but you can kinda see where I put them, here):
Just make sure the stalks can still rotate freely (they shouldnât be pinched in or the servo will have to do extra work) and you should be good to go.