Last winter I tried skiing for the first time. To me it was, and still is, very scary and strange, because I am afraid of steep places and because I have never been to the mountains during winter as a child and to me all the cold, snow and clothes felt very unnatural. However, I loved it, because it makes me very active during a season when I used to mostly spend my time indoors and because I get to have more holiday time, travelling and exploring new places with my boyfriend and friends.
This winter, since it was my second skiing season, we decided to treat ourselves and go skiing abroad. In Bulgaria there are a lot of skiing resorts, for such a small country, we have a lot of mountains. Although our mountains have very good natural conditions, the skiing resorts themselves have not been managed very well during the last couple of years - it's very expensive, overcrowded, service is not very good, you have to wait a lot in order to buy your skipass, etc. This is due mainly to the bad management and to the ever growing ski resorts which used to be small villages and have now turned into huge commercial resorts with a lot of hotels and houses that are empty most of the time. Anyway, last year we went skiing in Borovets, in Rila Mountain, where it was nice, our hotel was just on the ski piste and we had fun. This year, however, we decided we will try the famous Alps!
We quickly decided we will go to Austria because first, we wanted to travel by car from Bulgaria and the route to Austria in this case is the fastest and most convenient and second, skiing in the Austrian Alps is cheaper than in France and Switzerland. The minute we made this decision I did a quick research where more precisely we could go and I stumbled upon an informative article describing skiing resorts in Austria and sorting them by categories - http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/austria/articles/Best-Austrian-ski-resorts/. Based on the article and some more research we decided on Soll in SkiWelt. Soll was listed under the category "best for value" and indeed skipasses were the cheapest, plus there were a lot of different slopes and lifts on the map and we quickly found a nice and not very expensive place to stay.
The distance between Sofia, Bulgaria and Soll, Austria is 1259 km which ideally amounts to about 13 hours of car travel. However, we knew that with all the waiting at the borders, toll stations on highways, breaks, stops at gas stations, etc. it will be much more. So, we planned overnight stays in Zagreb on the way to Austria and in Belgrade on the way back. It was a great choice not only because we managed to have some rest, but also because we did some sightseeing and additional exploring. So, the whole thing turned to a road trip, not simply a ski trip!
At first we were a bit worried if everything will be ok with the car (we took it from a friend of ours because we don't have our own car), if finances will be enough, if we are going to like the accommodation and the slopes, but once we were on the road, listening to music and chatting in the sunshine, curious about what's around us, everything was fine. We started early in the morning on March, 5th and arrived in Zagreb late in the afternoon. We stayed in hostel "Casablanca" (http://www.hostel-casablanca.com/) which I highly recommend. It was very nice, quiet, romantic and cosy with extremely nice staff, situated near the centre. We quickly checked in, freshened up and went out for a walk and dinner. We went to see the Zagreb Cathedral, the most famous landmark of the city. It was already dark and the cathedral was beautifully illuminated so we managed to take some nice shots. The square around the cathedral was quiet and deserted mostly because it was dark, cold and on Saturday evening people were more interested in the restaurants and bars than in the cathedral. This only made our experience there better. After we had enough of the cathedral we went on to explore the nearby pedestrian streets (e.g. "Tkalčićeva" Street) in the Old Town of Zagreb, full of old buildings, cafes and restaurants. It was cosy and at the same time lively and exciting, everyone was out having fun, smiling and enjoying the evening. We had a hard time finding a place to eat because most of the places were full to the brim and/or very touristic. In the end, however, with a bit of luck and map orientation skills we had the most amazing dinner at a small and cosy semi-traditional semi-innovative restaurant called MUNDOAKA streetfood. It was the perfect end of a tiring but exciting day.
In the morning of March, 6th we said our goodbyes with beautiful Zagreb and went on with our road trip. We had some great time on the road that day, four seasons changed before our eyes during the whole trip. We had sunshine, rain and then heavy snow. The mountains and small villages we passed by that day were charming and we couldn't help but stop in one of them - Gmund in Austria. We were attracted by a road sign for a Porsche Museum in Gmund (later we learned Porsche had some facilities for car manufacturing there) and we spontaneously made a detour to check it out. It turned out the museum was not working that day but we had a refreshing walk in the streets and around the old castle (also closed). In fact, everything was closed and the village was empty and quiet, probably because it was Sunday, but anyway we made some more nice shots with the the camera and quenched our thirst for exploration and adventure. The quiet atmosphere, the rain patting on the rooftops, the small colourful houses lining up the main square were enchanting, evoking both loneliness and some kind of inner peace. Smoke was going out of chimneys everywhere and the view to the village from atop the castle was as if taken out of a fairy tale. We felt like the village was our own to explore and at the same time alien and so we peeked here and there into hidden gardens and small streets.
After a snowy and tricky ascent with the car in the mountain we finally reached our destination - Soll. It was dark when we first had a glipse of the village and the surroundings but it was exactly what we had expected - a small centre with a few pubs, a church and small buildings, surrounded by more houses all around and of course mighty mountain ranges and snowy peaks. Everything looked compact and provincial, but in a good way that makes you feel you are finally on a holiday, rested and happy, all your worries and daily routines left behind, substituted by the sweet skiing routines, early mornings in the mountain, chill on the cheeks, shimmering snow and that pleasant tiredness you can feel after an active day in the snow. We stayed in Kaiserstube, a guest house outside the centre. It was decorated in somewhat traditional Tyrolean mountain style with a lot of wood. It was quiet and we managed to have good rest with a glass of cold Paulaner beer, my favourite! The rest of our days were full of what I call ski routine - get up, have breakfast, go to the ski slopes, have a short walk in town, dinner and rest with a nice chat, beer and a movie. At first I was a bit disappointed with the pistes, but then when we started going to the mountain earlier in the morning I realized that for 2-3 hours in the morning they are pretty nice and well maintained. After that, however, they get ruined and skiing becomes more difficult, especially for a beginner like myself. My personal favourites were numbers 44 and 47, they were wide, not steep and well maintained in the mornings. On Wednesday, March, 9th, one of the two amazing sunny days, we decided to visit the neighbouring resort Scheffau and check out the pistes there. It turned out they were more difficult than those in Soll, even the blue tracks had some tricky and steep places. At one particular spot there was no way for me to go down on a blue track and I got very scared. In order to calm down and brace myself we stopped at a pub and enjoyed some good weiss beer and Wiener schnitzel in the sun. It was a beautiful day and we also used the time to make some nice photos of the landscape around. Although it helped a little, I had some very difficult time getting down with the skis after that. The middle of the ski trip was a kind of a transition, a very stressful day, because I had managed to practise what I already knew but had not managed to level up. The next and last two days, however, were great, because I learned new things and managed to improve. I got useful advice from my boyfriend and his cousin who are advanced skiers. I was so happy, I really love to learn but when it comes to skiing I am very insecure because of all the fear and anxiety. Now I can gladly say I am already skiing, making turns and feeling a lot better. Those last two days I was so happy and confident that I even had the courage to voluntarily try out a red track. It was so amazing for me, I find it difficult to describe it in words, I felt accomplished, enriched, confident, I felt the approval of my beloved teacher - I felt happy.