Are we already at the end of January?
January is a month that always passes in a blink. By the time I realise I am back from my Christmas break, I find myself sitting at the Couture shows in Paris, and already planning the season ahead.
This time I had to postpone my arrival in Paris for a day, that meant missing the Versace show-I knew Lady Gaga would be attending it, and the so much expected Marco Zanini's debut at Schiaparelli.
As Marco's fan, I wanted to be there and be part of his new journey from the beginning. An appointment in the fabulous Schiaparelli show-room had to be taken at once.
1.My first show was supposed to be Dior. I even managed to miss the two earlier ones-thanks Eurosta, but I was very happy to make it to the later one at 6pm that had been planned at the last minute to accommodate some 80 fashion students from worldwide schools. What a great idea! I immediately spotted the London Central Saint Martin ones, thanks to their colours.
The Dior show was all about lightness-a big trend of this past Couture week. Showing lots of clever separates, delicate embroideries, and some flower prints, Raf Simons made a modern Dior Couture collection. The cool factor were the trainers. I am sure they will be major commercial hit.
A candid and light minidress.
The bow is one of Dior's signature. I love this one, much fresher.
2. Giambattista Valli is a smart designer. Heavy ballgowns, appliqué' flowers, light chiffons are the classic elements of a Haute Couture collection: in the clothes he creates they never look dated or redundant. His show was as dreamy as ever. And sitting front row all his biggest fans (and buyers): the new European jeunesse doree'.
One of Giambattista Valli's creations.
Backstage, I always like to sneak the models line up...
3. What to say about Chanel? That Karl Lagerfeld is a genius. Yes, we all know that, as a designer. But he also has the great talent of understanding and capturing what's happening in today's world. And he can translate it into a Couture collection: light, rich and sporty at the same time. As today's wealthy girls want to dress. While they listen to Sebastien Tellier's music, live soundtrack of the show at the Grand Palais.
Live performance at the Chanel show
4. Ulyanna Sergeenko is a new name in the Paris Haute Couture gold list, and she has a clear idea what her collections should be like. Every season she has a different playful inspiration-mostly from her childhood or her Russian background, and translates it in a fun coherent collection. This time she had a train journey through Mother Russia and all the clothes had hints of the different cultural traditions of her big country.
It was nice to see former top models Eugenia Volodina and Werner.
5. Vionnet is having a new life thanks to visionaire Goga Ashkenazy. She's asked designer Hussein Chalayan to be the House's new creative director, and last week we saw his first collection. That was light and sleek.
Layers of chiffons at Vionnet.
Modern razor cuts chez Vionnet by Hussein Chalayan.
6. One of my favourite moments of Couture week in Paris was the Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal show. Here the design team have been experimenting any sort of new ideas and shapes that is pure creativity. This collections was inspired by interior decorating-one of other favourite things in life, so I can't say how much I enjoyed the clothes. In their intricate workmanships, they were pure, coherent, fun and highly inspiring.
A fabulous ensemble at MM Artisanal.
7. Elie Saab has got it right. He never disappoints the hundreds of furs+diamonds wearing clients that come to Paris from all over the world to attend his show. Again he used meters and meters of delicate lace for a collection that screamed dream and femininity, with short or long gowns in different pastel colours.
Hand painted little flowers on one of my favourite looks.
The most beautiful bride of all at Elie Saab.
8. Pierpaolo Piccioli and MariaGrazia Chiuri have all my respect for being fantastic and talented designers, and also for being the most humble people in today's fashion world. Again, they surprised us with a collection that was intricate, delicate, researched, witty, elegant, and above all light! In one world? Sublime...
A fabulous cape at Valentino.
9. I never knew that latex could be that fashionable. And who better than Viktor & Rolf to use this unexpected material to create a fun collection? Inspired by classic dancers, the models came out on their points and it was pure show time.
Viktor & Rolf closed Haute Couture week with a witty presentation.
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