Zest is the secret of all beauty. There's no beauty that is attractive without zest.
Christian Dior
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@gianlucalongo
Zest is the secret of all beauty. There's no beauty that is attractive without zest.
Christian Dior
A celebration of taste
One of the challenges of my job is styling 'real' people. For 'real' I mean people who have an opinion, their own style, and who need or want to keep a certain look when I do a fashion story and/or feature on them.
I find myself in 'discussing' clothes, designers and photographers with them, and it actually makes the whole process much more fun (styling a 'normal' model is an easy ride…).
Last September I had one of my most productive days of the year. I was in fact styling Lauren Santo Domingo, one of the most stylish girls in the world. I had to choose some clothes for a 'at home' feature, that I so enjoy doing.
And it was an easy job…who better than Lauren understands today's fashion? The Haute Couture collections were the natural choice.
Lauren in Giambattista Valli in the Francois Catroux-designed living room
Lauren in Schiaparelli by Marco Zanini in the main entrance to the house
A Gio' Ponti round table is the main feature of the dining room, with a Marc Quinn's orchid as only feature
Lauren in Valentino HC in the reading room of her house in Paris
The entrance door to the apartment, the passage between old and modern.
Lauren in Dolce & Gabbana in the entrance of the house.
Lauren Santo Domingo 'at home' is featured in the December issue of Italian Elle. And I might be romantic, but what a great pleasure still is to look at beautiful pictures in print...
Photographs by Pascal Chevallier
Feeling Wintery
I had forgotten what fun is styling a still life page, and I am loving this Old Master inspired picture I styled for Boat International Magazine
The Joy of being Independent
Last week I attended an amazing fashion event: a dinner for Charlotte Olympia Dellal to celebrate the launch of her new line of handbags, that she has targeted 'for the Leading Lady'.
The dinner was in a cute little restaurant in Chelsea (not the usual flashy-just-opened-cool Marylebone's one), dressed for the occasion in the most charming way (kitsch ceramic leopards as lamps, and hand printed paper tablecloths) and attended by some serious fashion crowd (from Mario Testino to Sam Rollinson, Suzy Menkes, Tatiana Santo Domingo and Naomi Campbell to name a few).
In a way it all made sense…
But that made me think that everyone decided to come along because they are real friends with Charlotte, and supporter of her brand. Charlotte Olympia doesn't buy pages on magazines as advertiser, she is not linked to any of the big 'Fashion Holdings' and she did her own guest list, sending a hand written card to everyone...
In today world, this is so refreshing. But how many of those 'independent' designers will resist and keep on going without being squashed by the 'big' names?
Well, I will be supporting the likes of Charlotte Olympia, Dries van Noten, Giambattista Valli, Rick Owens and so on for as long they keep on making some beautiful creations, and being proud of their freedom.
Vive l'indipendance!
To enjoy Freedom, we have to control Ourselves...
Virginia Wolf
A very Italian family affair
July is a good month to think back at what I have been doing in the first half of the year. Let's say I am not too busy, so I can look back at things, trips, jobs and events and make some reflections. (and maybe more posts in thous blog too...?)
Last April I hosted a talk with Angela Missoni at the V&A, at the eve of the opening of the 'The Glamour of Italian Fashion: 1954-2014' on which I had contributed as consultant to Sonett Stanfill, the Museum's fashion curator.
Special guest of the talk, was actually Rosita Missoni, Angela's mother and founder of the fashion house. And with her intervention from the front row in the audience, the whole talk became more alive and passionate. As an Italian affair.
I felt incredibly lucky to be there, together with all the guests. And even more lucky that the conversation was filmed for ShowStudio.com. I only found it this morning and I have decided to share it here in my blog.
http://showstudio.com/project/in_conversation/Angela_Missoni_and_Gianluca_Longo
A thing of Beauty is a Joy forever
John Keats
A day in the park
This morning I went to Hyde Park. I wish it was for a jogging session or one of those Military Fitness programs. Instead I went for the unveiling of the new Summer Pavilion at the Serpentine gallery, that this year is designed by Smiljan Radic.
I have visited almost all of the past 13 temporary pavilions, but today I was impressed by this one. Radic's plans depict a semi-translucent, cylindrical structure, resting on large quarry stones. It's an organic, big and sweet monster in the middle of the gardens, but at the same time light and almost vulnerable. I was lucky to meet Mr Radic today, who said that this Pavilion is <part of the history of small romantic constructions seen in gardens and parks, the so-called follies>
And I have always loved a folly here and there...
The Serpentine 2014 Summer Pavilion.
Totally enchanted by the new construction, and in search of a glass of water, I noticed that inside the gallery, Marina Abramovich was still 'performing' her 512 Hours exhibition. The queue was rather small, and having a 45 minutes to kill, I decided to go in and experience this so much talked-about show.
At the entrance I was asked to leave my bag and my phones in a locker, and even to remove my watch. <You are entering a space where time and space have no meaning> a kind assistant told me. I panicked, having only 45 minutes to spare, but I was panicking even more in not being able to witness this experience with my i-phone and Instagram it consequently.
I entered the big room, where people were wandering spaceless, some with eyes closed. Some gathered in the middle on a wooden platform as in ecstasy. In another room, Marina Abramovic herself was leading some chosen visitors to camp-beds and let them fall asleep, blanket on. And I was there, enjoying my time-less time, no phone, no camera, no stress.
It might have worked. And on my way out, I even managed to make it on time for my next meeting.
Was it better than meditation?
The stamp on my wrist is the only thing to witness I was at the show. Who needs Instagram anymore?
Opinion is the medium between knowledge and ignorance
Plato
My (fashion) pilgrimage to the Middle East II
3. Front row at Fashion Week: does it really matter any longer? But being front row at a Chanel event, then it really matters…and more than so, being invited to one of their fashion extravaganzas around the world.
Last May I was lucky enough to be invited to Dubai for the Maison's cruise show: over a two-days whirlwind, I was immersed in all things Chanel, Dubai style (or better, all things Dubai, Chanel style).
I had to absorb as much as I could of this 'exotic' land. I doubt I will ever go back there, it's far too fake and far too hot. I enjoyed the view from the 142nd floor of the Burj Al Khalifa tower (the tallest building in the world), a desert trip, that ended up to the most isolated luxury hotel ever, Al Maha, the gold market of the 'old' town and of course the fabulous Chanel show.
And I felt at the top of the world…view over Dubai, 142 floors up.
Street fashion-Dubai Old Town style
A different view of Dubai
I chose to wear monochrome to the Chanel event, and it seemed to vein perfect harmony with the locals in Dishdash.
Perfect cars for an adventures on the dunes.
Snapping backstage, Chanel cruise, Dubai style.
I wish the London underground stations looked the same...
4. Marrakech… the fashionable Moroccan city was chosen for the most fashionable wedding of the year. Poppy Delavingne and James Cook got engaged there, and decided that would be their scene for their wedding.
I don't think I have ever seen so many beautiful people, all together, wearing the most beautiful outfits to the most fun wedding. And I have been to very many around the world.
The celebrations went on for three days: firstly sundown drinks at La Mamounia-dress code Talitha Getty and Summer Suits; second day, sunset blessing at a country club in the Palmerai-dress code Casablanca; and to end, a rave in the desert tip dawn-dress code tribal festival!
Unfortunately I can't publish all the great pictures I took for a well deserved Instaban. But everyone looked amazing, from Joan Collins to Cara Delavingne.
Location, location, location…a country club in Marrakech's palmerai
The most beautiful roses as backdrop for the wedding.
One of the rooms of Franca Sozzani's house in Marrakech. I had to visit it.
I stayed at the charming Riad Madani, a tranquil oasis in the middle of the busy medina of Marrakech.
Inspired…what a pool like this? ohhhh Marrakech...
My (fashion) pilgrimage to the Middle East
I don't think I have ever explored the Middle East as intensely as in the last 3 months. And it was not even planned!
1.Soon after the collections, I had the pleasure to be a travel companion of Angela, Rosita and Teresa Missoni to Israel. I had been there once before, but it was exhilarating to explore Tel Aviv and Jerusalem with such creative minds as the Missoni girls are (3 generations of colours, fashion and family in once!).
Rosita could see colours and inspiration in everything: from the facade of the Dan Hotel in Tel Aviv, to the hand made crocheted blankets in the markets. Angela was equally enchanted by the geometric Bauhaus architecture and the holy atmosphere of the Church of Saint Sepulchre. While Teresa kept on taking pictures of everything and everyone (I can see a photographer career there…).
A 'Missoni' inspired fountain in Tel Aviv
Street Style in Jerusalem
A Holy procession in the Church of the Saint Sepulchre in Jerusalem
Bauhaus architecture in Tel Aviv's Avenue de Rotschild
Shalom! Rosita, Angela and Teresa Missoni
Beautiful pomegranates, for a delicious juiice from a market stall.
2. I had never been to Tangiers before. And when my dear friends Bruno Frisoni (Roger Vivier's genius Creative Director) and Herve' van der Straeten had invited me over and stay with them, well, the answer was a 'YES, PLEASE'.
The whole thing about the Moroccan city of Tangiers always fascinated me: its elegant houses (Barbara Hutton and Yves Saint Laurent had some of the chicest), its busy and vibrant Kasbah, its lush and beautiful vegetation and the fact you can see the Spain from there. By the moment I arrived there, I fell in love with it.
What lies behind? A beautiful and elegant door in Tangiers' Kasbah
Bruno Frisoni and myself-busy in Instagram, in the living room of his charming Tangiers' house
Sunset from a Tangiers rooftop, the place to spend the last hours of the day
Street art in Tangiers city centre
The coastal village of Assilah is only 30 minutes drive from Tangiers and it's my new obsession (shopping included)
Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavour
Truman Capote
Are we already at the end of January?
January is a month that always passes in a blink. By the time I realise I am back from my Christmas break, I find myself sitting at the Couture shows in Paris, and already planning the season ahead.
This time I had to postpone my arrival in Paris for a day, that meant missing the Versace show-I knew Lady Gaga would be attending it, and the so much expected Marco Zanini's debut at Schiaparelli.
As Marco's fan, I wanted to be there and be part of his new journey from the beginning. An appointment in the fabulous Schiaparelli show-room had to be taken at once.
1.My first show was supposed to be Dior. I even managed to miss the two earlier ones-thanks Eurosta, but I was very happy to make it to the later one at 6pm that had been planned at the last minute to accommodate some 80 fashion students from worldwide schools. What a great idea! I immediately spotted the London Central Saint Martin ones, thanks to their colours.
The Dior show was all about lightness-a big trend of this past Couture week. Showing lots of clever separates, delicate embroideries, and some flower prints, Raf Simons made a modern Dior Couture collection. The cool factor were the trainers. I am sure they will be major commercial hit.
A candid and light minidress.
The bow is one of Dior's signature. I love this one, much fresher.
2. Giambattista Valli is a smart designer. Heavy ballgowns, appliqué' flowers, light chiffons are the classic elements of a Haute Couture collection: in the clothes he creates they never look dated or redundant. His show was as dreamy as ever. And sitting front row all his biggest fans (and buyers): the new European jeunesse doree'.
One of Giambattista Valli's creations.
Backstage, I always like to sneak the models line up...
3. What to say about Chanel? That Karl Lagerfeld is a genius. Yes, we all know that, as a designer. But he also has the great talent of understanding and capturing what's happening in today's world. And he can translate it into a Couture collection: light, rich and sporty at the same time. As today's wealthy girls want to dress. While they listen to Sebastien Tellier's music, live soundtrack of the show at the Grand Palais.
Live performance at the Chanel show
Chanel Sport Couture.
4. Ulyanna Sergeenko is a new name in the Paris Haute Couture gold list, and she has a clear idea what her collections should be like. Every season she has a different playful inspiration-mostly from her childhood or her Russian background, and translates it in a fun coherent collection. This time she had a train journey through Mother Russia and all the clothes had hints of the different cultural traditions of her big country.
Russian drama.
It was nice to see former top models Eugenia Volodina and Werner.
5. Vionnet is having a new life thanks to visionaire Goga Ashkenazy. She's asked designer Hussein Chalayan to be the House's new creative director, and last week we saw his first collection. That was light and sleek.
Layers of chiffons at Vionnet.
Modern razor cuts chez Vionnet by Hussein Chalayan.
6. One of my favourite moments of Couture week in Paris was the Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal show. Here the design team have been experimenting any sort of new ideas and shapes that is pure creativity. This collections was inspired by interior decorating-one of other favourite things in life, so I can't say how much I enjoyed the clothes. In their intricate workmanships, they were pure, coherent, fun and highly inspiring.
A fabulous ensemble at MM Artisanal.
Cool urban Couture.
7. Elie Saab has got it right. He never disappoints the hundreds of furs+diamonds wearing clients that come to Paris from all over the world to attend his show. Again he used meters and meters of delicate lace for a collection that screamed dream and femininity, with short or long gowns in different pastel colours.
Hand painted little flowers on one of my favourite looks.
The most beautiful bride of all at Elie Saab.
8. Pierpaolo Piccioli and MariaGrazia Chiuri have all my respect for being fantastic and talented designers, and also for being the most humble people in today's fashion world. Again, they surprised us with a collection that was intricate, delicate, researched, witty, elegant, and above all light! In one world? Sublime...
Fringed Couture.
A fabulous cape at Valentino.
9. I never knew that latex could be that fashionable. And who better than Viktor & Rolf to use this unexpected material to create a fun collection? Inspired by classic dancers, the models came out on their points and it was pure show time.
Ballerina in latex...
Viktor & Rolf closed Haute Couture week with a witty presentation.
The creative adult is the child who survived...
Ursula K. Le Guin
it's time for couture-again!
Haute Couture week in Paris is definitely one of my favourite moments in Fashionland.
On the eve of a new week of fabulousness here is what I reported six months ago from a balmy week in Paris. Where I doubled up as fashion editor, journalist and photographer! And it wasn't always easy...
What will I see next week? Hopefully some new frocks and new ideas to make us dream about fashion again.
That is the message of Haute Couture. Hopefully.
I was not looking for my dreams to interpret my life, but rather for my life to interpret my dreams
Susan Sontag
To empower a little girl is to empower the woman she will become
Diane von Furstenberg