Sheila Murray & James Simone's blog
More rock climbing on our adventure blog as we travel the world.
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@gussettedcrouch-blog
Sheila Murray & James Simone's blog
More rock climbing on our adventure blog as we travel the world.
From here the day get shorter, tireless but older
Top of Mt. Lincoln, NH
It's the way the light plays out on the rocks; the shine of the lichen and the stuttered steps of our walk; we hike to climb and we wear ourselves ragged. It's all in pursuit of a moment that can't be defined and a state of being you can't stay in for long, but I'll swear that it keeps you young and your heart light - whether or not you make it to the top, you gave it your all.
Matt gets deliberate at the buttermilks #latergram
Top of Snake Dike, waiting for Gary and Dierdre.
Top of Snake Dike. Endless slabs
Half Dome in a day - the hike back to Camp 4
After a steep wide fist roof crack, you gain an awesome jug - and then it's just an 11+ boulder problem separating you from the sweet, sweet chains.
Of all the advertisements I've ever seen ... this was my favorite. Right outside my hotel in Lucerne, Switzerland, two years ago.
KB leading Connecticut Crack - a notorious 5.11 on Farley's Second Tier. The offwidth at the top? Never dry.
phenomenal stemming corner with queenvictoriaa
The hiatus was unintentional. The injury was no excuse. The wait ... is nearly over. The rack is bought. The cracks are here.
See you soon, friends.
Just a single day after getting to the top of my first ever V6 (the top part of which, at V3, I had failed to climb, year after year, regardless of my relative strength and questionable successes), I took a bad fall on a roof climb at Farley - the roof climb at Farley - and dislocated my left elbow.
I'm a lefty.
First things first: the story of Oosik ("dat roof") may eventually come out of this blog, but for now some facts. It took me more than a year to send the route, and as my first 5.12 it was a pretty big deal for me at the time. Looking back, it was all in my head. I had built it up in my mind - I wanted it to be that climb, and that roof, that put me on the radar for that grade - but in retrospect I wish I had focused my attentions elsewhere; as I eventually did. I fell on the last hard move, by my own estimates, upwards of 50 times. On one day alone I actually fell off of it 8 times - twice AFTER the last hard move. You can imagine how my belayers must have felt. Even after the send, I still fell on it. In short, while my opinions on the route eventually cooled and I stopped obsessing over it, in my mind I certainly thought that I had biffed it in every possible way.
I'm glad to have been proven wrong, though. I set the joint myself, broke no bones, and suffered for the most part entirely emotional trauma. That sort of thing is good for the human spirit. It's educational. Having to shelve Sendtember and Rocktober for physical therapy and a mostly sedentary existence has proven humbling, though "humbling albeit fun" is a much better description. I'm on the road to recovery, and I have a lot of time on my hands.
I was walking the 5 miles to and from work for a while there, though, and the 2 hour commute thing inside of a city wasn't exactly making me laugh, either. Elbows, as it turns out, are the unsung hero of everything from blowing your nose to washing your hair (if you're into that). The first day that I could ride my bike again was as close to the feeling of being released from prison as I hope to sidle up to in this lifetime. I have a huge amount of appreciation for the amount of range of articulation and strength that resides in this little joint; I look forward to climbing again, but most of all, I want to get better without any further injury. It takes time and it takes patience... good lessons for anything.
I've often said that I'm not satisfied with a life lived to less than its potential. It's back to running and keeping myself in good health till next I can climb.
I became a runner completely by accident.
In high school, I hung out with all of the runners - even went on adventurous trips with them over the summers (which is where I first encountered climbing, at some random wall at the New) - but was not one of them. I had never run before, but as part of the efforts of an exasperated overweight kid, I tried to follow the training program the summer between freshman and sophomore year of high school. It was arduous work, and I eventually quit; embarrassed with my lack of speed and endurance, and lacking the motivation necessary to continue, it was a relatively easy decision at the time. I slid back into obesity with barely a thought - it was an important first dip into the waters of living a healthier lifestyle, but I was unfortunately not quite ready.
Then, of course, I discovered climbing. It changed me in ways I could never have foreseen; the one thing that I could have foreseen was that it whipped me into shape faster than I could have ever imagined. In that sense, everything proceeded according to plan. As part of a failed experiment to maximize my strength / weight ratio, I started running again in the fall of my sophomore year of college with an eye towards being able to pull harder on the greasy gym crimps we had (side note: no luck there!) but after only a few months again quit.
Those were my only two brief forays into running. I didn't enjoy it. When it comes down to it, that sentence defines so much of how modern society approaches physical recreation - there is a certain dubiousness surrounding these activities; a heaviness of heart instead of limb. Even the people who do some small modicum of activity, like working out, can often be heard deriding their time spent in the gym - as though it's some kind of chore, to be done and then forgotten about. I spent a long time swimming in the waters of this particular metaphysical malaise, but in retrospect the answer seems obvious: you can't really get into anything unless you love it. The reason climbing fixed me (and in my mind I was very "broken" before that) is no secret; anybody with a passion knows what it's like to work hard at something - and supporting somethings - so as to improve yourself. It's happening the world over, and whether you kayak, climb, or ride one of those outrageous bikes with the wheels that are powered by your hands, I respect you because you're doing something you love and it makes you who you are.
Fast forward a few years. Practically against my will, I agreed to register in a relay race called "Reach the Beach" as a way to support my company. I love my job, but had a real aversion to running. Only when it became clear that the team might not coalesce without my support did I finally relent. This was in January, and the race was in May. In Reach the Beach, a team of up to twelve people alternates legs of a race - anywhere between 3 to 9 miles in length - as you march from a (totally arbitrary) starting point to - you guessed it - the beach. I began running, but again couldn't really get motivated. And I kept getting injured. First my IT bands began to bother me, then my left and right meniscus. By the time of the race, while I felt physically capable of running the 21 miles assigned to me, I was in bad shape. Sure enough, by the 5th mile of my third leg, already 18 miles in, my left knee had become so swollen that I was reduced to a horrible pirate limp. My team finally hauled me in and another runner continued in my place. It was the right choice: much as I wanted to keep going, I ran the risk (no pun intended) of much greater injury. Despite this, my team had a wild time and we all enjoyed ourselves to no end. We found a certain companionship and camaraderie associated with watching friends push their limits.
That night, a good friend of mine took this photo of me. I appear downtrodden, and I was - I could barely walk the next day, and there's nothing like shooting pain every time you take a step to remind you of your own mortality and aging. But I came to realize that what really bothered me about the situation was not that I had gotten injured - that was the natural conclusion to my idiotic running form - but that at the beginning of my third leg, I was not tired. I ran with two older guys, and I was grateful that they stuck by my side after catching up to me as I started to limp. When they passed me, it was not because they had sped up; I had slowed down as the pain increased. I went slower and slower, and watched people struggle past me, until I eventually was found by my team doing my terrible peg leg limp. That is to say: I wasn't tired. At all.
Something about that sensation grabbed at my consciousness. I was convinced that a homeopathic recovery was within my grasp, and began truly working towards that with a friend of mine - when my knee had finally reduced itself to its normal size three weeks later. We ran every day - just a little! - and I snuck in some barefoot time on the indoor track. I wasn't obsessed with the idea that barefoot running was the key to my salvation, but I had connected with running in a way that was similar to my love for climbing, and I wanted to be able to run as I pleased - for as long as I pleased. I ran in hilariously thin slippers (1 mm of rubber) when shoes were required and slowly but surely began to feel better. I was searching for that moment where I could run and "turn off" - have my form carry me and not have to worry about anything except what I was thinking about in the present. It's a state of mind that accentuates the texture of sun-crisped leaves; that leaves you free to explore the various mysteries and joys of life.
I went for a run the other night and, like many times, felt as though I had just barely warmed up when I came in at the end of a 6 mile loop. Today, I decided to test myself - not by speed, but by an unknown length - and when I came in after an hour and a half and found I'd run 10 miles ... I felt pretty good. I purposefully ran as slow as I could possible imagine, and as a result was never winded. I look forward to future runs - and the chance to run further. In that process, it seems, I may find myself anew.
Sending the ultra-classic problem, “Bachar Cracker” - V4, at Camp4, Yosemite, CA
Conspiratorially yours
Ill-received by every recreational activity I've ever tried, and held back at every crimp, sloper, jug and pinch I've ever felt by cruxes mental and physical, I would still suggest that Friday night at the climbing wall (in lieu of a crag) is the finest way to start your night.