In part one of this little series, I talked about 2 of skinfood’s serums and their carrot toner pads as pat of StyleKorean’s TMRM campaign. Today, I’m gonna go over 2 of their wash-off masks, the first of which is a truly iconic kbeauty product:
Black sugar mask wash off
This is sort of a 2-in-1 product, a physical exfoliant and a hydrating wash off mask, both because of the sugar granules. I know physical scrubs have had a bad reputation recently, but I don’t think you need to be scared of them. You apply this to damp skin and gently massage it until the granules dissolve, at which point it turns from a thick grainy paste into a sort of milky/creamy texture
it’s this milky textured form you leave the product on your skin for 10-15 mins for, allowing the sugar (which is an excellent humectant) and other ingredients to nourish and hydrate the top layer of your skin, before dissolving the rest of the sugar and rinsing away completely. When I first used this, I was earnestly shocked by how soft and taken care of my skin felt. It’s definitely a contrast to the red, irritated skin I’m used to getting from physical scrubs! I think the way you use this is important, as I’m sure if you rubbed to hard it could leave you red as well, but if you’re gentle with it then it’ll be gentle with you.
Something I was surprised by from this was that it has a fresh, almost grassy scent. It’s pleasant, but I had expected it to smell sweet like sugar. I’ve really enjoyed using this to unwind after a long day, especially as it encourages me to massage my face (something I enjoy and find helpful, but often forget/am to lazy to do)
Egg white pore mask
If you like clay masks, listen up: because this might be my favourite one.
Along with the titular egg white, this uses bentonite and kaolin clay to absorb excess sebum and impurities. I was actually very surprised to see bentonite on the inci for this one, because as you’ll know if you’re a clay mask fan, that’s the more ‘powerful’ clay which can be on the harsher side. But, this is one of the creamiest, smoothest clay masks I’ve tried
The texture feels like a moisturising mask, and doesn’t dry down horribly like some other clay masks do. Instead, it leaves your skin feeling deeply cleansed but still very comfortable - so you can used it multiple times a week, if you want to!
The scent of this one is sort of powdery or soap-like, to me. To be honest, I’m not a huge fan of it. But the product overall is more than good enough that I can overlook it, and I’m sure as the weather heats up and my skin becomes oily as hell again, I’m going to get a LOT of use out of this one
In conclusion
Once again, you can check skinfood out on StyleKorean here and use the code TRYSKINFOOD at checkout until 22/03/22 (which is not an affiliate code) for a discount!
Thank you so much to StyleKorean for allowing me to take part of their TMRM campaign once again, and I sincerely hope my reviews have helped someone out there
Right off the bat, Skinfood is an impressive company to me. It was founded in 1957, four years after the Korean War, when South Korea was in a dramatically different economic position than it is now. Since then, it has managed to stay a relevant and well known skincare brand in both Korea and internationally. The brand is focused on food ingredients, with various ranges of products based around different kinds of food; some classic and well researched ones like rice, honey, and aloe, and some that are more fun like peach cotton, and twinkle cookie highlighters. Today I am going to review some of Skinfood’s best selling products for StyleKorean’s TryMeReviewMe campaign!
Royal Honey Propolis Enrich Essence
This is 50ml, but I wish it was a litre as I LOVE this stuff. I took it with me when I went away for a few days, and although travelling typically sensitises me skin and leaves it dry and broken-out (and that’s without masks), while using this it was calm and clear. It has a simple and fragrance-free formula including honey and royal jelly which are excellent humectants, and propolis which is anti-inflammatory and known for soothing and potentially anti-acne properties. So, maybe I shouldn’t be so surprised by its effectiveness... but I don’t think I’ve ever known something work so well while travelling.
Although typically touted being soothing for the skin, propolis can have the opposite effect and be sensitising- so in general I find that it’s better to use it in a simple routine. Thankfully, this product is also deeply hydrating, so it + a moisturiser is enough for my entire evening routine. Out of everything I was sent for these review, this is certainly the one I am most likely to purchase again - and in fact, I think I’ll have to the next time I travel. Just to top it all off, the packaging of it is utterly gorgeous and the texture, which is like a runny honey, feels like a luxorious treat for the skin. At first it’s a little on the thicker side, but it spreads across the skin thinly and sinks in easily to leave your skin feeling thuroughly hydrated and with a subtle glow!
Carrot Carotene Moist Effector
This is 52ml, very specific. I was really excited to try this one, as carrot ingredients are having a Moment in Korea and I wanted to see what the fuss was about, so the second my package arrived I couldn’t resist putting a dollop of this on my hand and seeing the texture - which is a lovely, medium weight serum which spreads easily and sinks in quickly.
I immediately detected a scent, which I believe is the lavender, orange, and sage essential oils present on its inci list. It’s a fresh, ‘green’ scent and is the sort of scent that makes me think of herbal Korean skincare- so fitting, I suppose!
I used it every morning and evening for 2 weeks and hardly made a dent in it, so I see this as a great every day product for hydration and soothing. However, I found that on days where my skin was already a little sensitive (as it can be for any number of reasons), it wasn’t the best option and could feel uncomfortable through the day. I suspect the essentual oils are the culprit, although of course not everyone will react that way and most of the time it was completely fine
Carrot carotene calming water pad
I love toner pads. They’re like sheet masks, except easier to apply, less wasteful, and often more affordable as you can buy a whole bunch at once istead of one at a time. BUT... the material is often not the best, or they’re too small, or don’t have a lot of essence so aren’t all that worthwhile. However these ones from skinfood tick all the boxes: the material is soft, they’re big enough to fit my whole cheek, and they’re absolutely soaked in a hydrating, water essence. They have the same scent and main ingredients as the moist effector, but the formula is different and if you squeeze the liquid out it’s much runnier (more like a toner than a serum).
My favourite aspect of these is that they’re cooling on the skin, which has been incredible to use recently as I’ve had a nasty head cold. I also really like using this type of product to deeply hydrate areas that are particularly dry, mostly in the wintertime
In conclusion
You can buy all of the products mentioned today on StyleKorean here, and until 22/03/22 you can use code TRYSKINFOOD (not an affiliate code)
This is part one of two, with part two being posted tomorrow so watch this space!
Sheet masks are a touch controversial for the fact that they’re single use, and as a result produce more waste than other skincare products. Typically, in both the west and Korea, sheet masks come as a single mask in a sachet and often have some extra piece of plastic inside to help keep its shape. After using it, you throw away the sheet itself along with the packaging, so there’s definitely weight to an argument against using them.
Personally, I still use them every now and then because there’s truly nothing better and more hydrating after a long workday (especially with the irritation of masks and/or in the summer heat) but I have been trying to use ones that don’t have extra bits of plastic inside, or that come in multipacks- which are very common in Japan.
This pack of 28 saborino botanical morning face masks cost £12.59 on iherb, putting the price per mask at about £0.44p, which is also a much better price than most individual ones!
The idea behind these masks is that you use one for one minute each morning, and it takes the place of your entire morning routine: cleansing, skincare, and makeup base. Of course, there’s no SPF in here so you’ll still have to apply that separately.
I couldn’t confirm what the masks are made out of (though I think it’s cotton), but they’re relatively thick and have a stretchy texture, which lets you pull it across your own face shape for better adherence
It has a sweet botanical scent and contains various citrus extracts, vitamin c derivatives, menthol, and peppermint, which all come together to give it a fresh, cool sensation (even if you don’t put it in the fridge beforehand). All of these together could be irritating for people with sensitive skin, and I found I had to be careful to keep the essence away from my eyes or else it would sting.
When used for more than three or four days in a row, I did find my skin would start to feel irritated. It isn’t designed to be used daily, though, but as an occasional alternative to a full morning routine if you’re pushed for time.
I ordered the masks in early August and have just used the last one now in late January, and they were kept moist and feeling fresh throughout all that time. They aren’t drenched in essence so I was afraid they might dry out if I didn’t use them quickly enough, but that didn’t happen at all!
As for the fit, it starts getting worse the second after you get it how you want it, but the stretchy fabric makes it easy to apply and it does adhere well. It’s not a mask that I’d want to keep on for long (of course, they are only designed to be used for one minute anyway), and I tend to slap a silicone mask (from daiso) over it to keep it in place anyway.
Overall I would happily recommend these for a quick alternative to a morning routine if you overslept, or just can’t be bothered, but they shouldn’t be used every day. I’ll try and get the night version next, as I think a routine-replacing sheet mask would probably serve me better there, personally!
Cosrx Advanced Snail Line review with StyleKorean!
Cosrx is an absolute classic brand in the international kbeauty world, for their simple formulations and relatively accessible price point. They're a brand I've used (and reviewed) consistently over the ~4 years or so that I've been using Korean skincare. I’d like to thank StyleKorean for sending these products over to me for this review!
First off, I wanted to touch on the star ingredient: snail secretion filtrate. Unlike what you might imagine, this ingredient is not pure snail goo. Rather, it's snail goo which has been filtered and purified, and mixed with solvents, texture enhancers, preservatives, and potentially small amounts of other things to create the ingredient known on inci lists as snail secretion filtrate (the same applies to plants extracts). This means that it's pretty much impossible as a consumer to know the exact percentage of raw snail secretion in the formula, although this isn't necessarily a bad thing. I'm not a fan of 'percentage chasing', that is, assuming that a higher number of a specific ingredient = better product, and rather talk about the actual effect I've seen from using the product itself.
In terms of my expectations, I have one word: hydration. These are very simple formulations, with only a handful of ingredients after snail secretion filtrate each, so the focus really is on the one ingredient- in this case, one known for its deeply hydrating abilities. The products are all (but one) completely unscented, which fits well into global trends for simple and so-called 'clean' products which just do what they're meant to do without too many frills.
The Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is a viscous, gooey-but-not-sticky, hydrator that spreads easily across the skin and sinks in very quickly. I apply all of my hydrating products on to damp skin, and each time I use this one it feels as though sucks in the water on top of it to hydrate deeply on the inside (not that I think that's actually what happens, but as far as it feels, it's great). Just 1-2 pumps is enough to completely hydrate my skin, and leaves it feeling plump and bouncy.
It’s a classic for a reason, and one I could very easily see myself purchasing myself in the future.
The Advanced Snail 92 All in one Cream is, as the name suggests, a perfect simple, all rounder cream that I think practically anyone could use. This time of year, my skin likes to go sort of combination with drier (though not super dry) cheeks and a much greasier T-zone, and this cream manages to moisturise both areas properly without being too much or breaking me out in the oilier areas. The texture is unlike any other cream I've used- it's incredibly stretchy, almost like one of those DIY slimes, but it hasn't given me any problems with stickiness and sinks in quickly just like the essence. A little goes a long way, and it's also good for layering an extra time for any drier areas. I have found that used overnight it has left me feeling a little dry come the morning, so in the winter I'd only recommend it for use during the day. In the warmer weather, though, it'll be great for both day and night.
It also gets bonus points for being 100ml which is bigger than the standard 50-60ml creams I see in kbeauty.
A new product is the Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream, which of course comes from a controversial category of skincare, came as a pleasant surprise for me. This is, from what I can tell, the first product from the snail line formulated in house by the cosrx R&D lab, which is cool to see! I also appreciate that they wrote this on the packaging for the product in English along with Korean. In case you didn't know, all Korean products are required by law to list their manufacturer (alongside other information) which provides a level of transparency not always given in other countries. This makes it easy to figure out if your product was made by a reputable company if you read Korean... but if you don't, you wouldn't even know this information if available to you. I’ve never seen it written out in English before, so I have to give kudos for cosrx for this.
I don't tend to use eye creams, but I could actually see myself repurchasing this one. Its texture is the perfect middle ground between ultra hydrating and light enough to use around the sensitive eye area, with a similar stretchy texture to the all in one cream, though this one feels a little richer. Like the all in one cream, this glides across the skin and an absolutely tiny bit goes a long way. I need less than one pump of product for both eyes (the rest I'll use on wrinkle-prone areas like the forehead) which means it'll last a long time. It contains various peptides, which are ingredients known for their anti-aging potential. I wouldn't be able to comment on the long-term anti-wrinkle effect of it, but simply by hydrating the area I have noticed my smile lines are less prominent when using this Vs when I don't.
The Advanced Snail Mucin Power Sheet Masks (which I forgot to include in the first photo, sorry!) are easily one of my favourite sheet masks of all time. They’re exceptionally thin, with great adherence to the face and a perfect amount of essence. They stay wet for a long time (I’ve kept one on for over 30 mins with no problem) but they’re not drippy or difficult to put on. The fit is also pretty dang good, although I suppose that’s more personal. It contains 35,000ppm snail secretion filtrate, or 3.5%. I’ve noticed sometimes brands will use ppm measurements instead of percentages for smaller amounts, and I can’t help but wonder if it’s because they know fewer people are familiar with ppm (parts per million), and that even if you know what it stands for it’s a little harder to visualise what 35k out of 1m is, rather than 3.5 out of 100. It doesn’t impact my enjoyment of the mask overall, though.
This is the only product with a very faint scent, specifically coming from a small amount of tea tree oil which I don’t bothersome at all, and it’s nice to have for an added anti-inflammatory effect. Especially if you refrigerate it before use, this is incredibly soothing and the perfect product to use after a very hot day. I will absolutely be stocking up on these for the summer!!
Sheet masks are something I love using after long stressful days to deeply replenish the skin, and a good one like this is almost as good as getting a good night’s sleep. If you apply one of these and then get a good night’s sleep, I can almost guarantee that you’ll wake up with bouncy, fully hydrated skin!
In conclusion
The Cosrx Advanced Snail line is a simple, effective set of skincare products to deeply hydrate and soothe the skin. My personal favourites are probably the sheet mask and the essence, but I enjoyed all of them and will make sure to use every drop of each one up. Click here for the brand page on StyleKorean who sent me the products to review, and until February 13th you can also use the code TRYSNAIL for 10% off of your order with them!
(This isn’t an affiliate link and I haven’t made any money from this post/your purchases)
Rohto Melano CC Intensive Anti-Spot Essence: Regular and Premium version review & comparison!
After about 6 months of using these, I am finally actually getting around to reviewing them (my excuse is that you want to use a vitamin c seurm for a good while before you can judge it). These essences are a staple over on r/AsianSkincare, but they took me a long time to try out becuase I was scared of vitamin c, as it’s known to be irritating. In addition, these contain fragrance, so I had convicned myself that I wouldn’t be able to use them.
It was only after I got the opportunity to try out a very expensive vitamin c serum that I realised it’s an ingredient my skin really benefits from - as someone who compulsively picks at their skin, I pretty much always have post-acne marks to try and fade, and vitamin c is the reigning queen of mark fading. It’s also one of the very few ingredients which have real evidence showing its antioxidant properties, and it may reverse photo aging as well!
You may hear ‘essence’ and think of a large watery, humectant-rich product like a toner, but these only contain 20ml each. In Japanese skincare, and sometimes Korean skincare, essences are highly concentrated products containing strong ingredients, just like serums. In fact, the distinction between a toner, essence, serum etc. is entirely made up by companies, and what something is called is not what you should judge a product on alone.
You only need to use a couple of drops of these, and using them on damp skin (or after a hydrating product) helps them spread out and sink in more nicely. On dry skin, the texture can feel a little oily. Due to the clever tube packaging, now matter how hard you squeeze only the exact amount you need will come out - which both helps prevent you from overusing it, and protects the formulation inside from oxidising/going bad, which is a common issue with vitamin c serums.
Ingredients-wise, both essences use Ascorbic Acid which is the direct form of vitamin c, meaning it is both the most effective and the most likely to irritate the skin. They both also include vitamin e (additional antioxidant which can help stabilise ascorbic acid) and liquourice root extract, which is a very gentle brightener and soothes skin.
The regular version also has ascorbyl palmitate, which is a vitamin c derivative. The premium version has 3 different derivatives: ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. It also has some citrus fruit extracts, and allantoin for soothing.
As is standard for Japanese skincare, there’s no indication of the percentage used for any of these ingredients- which is fine by me, as I think in the west we tend to fixate on trying to find the ‘strongest’ products too much, when instead we should be choosing products that fit our needs.
I used the premium version first because when I started using it, my skin looked blotchy from all the red marks left over from cystic acne (I’d share photos of this but unfortunately I lost a lot of photos from around this time! I’m sorry). I used it every morning without any irritation, which honestly surprised me. After about a month of using it, I started to really notice a difference in my skin’s overall tone which was looking brighter, and the red marks were steadily disappearing. It last me roughly 4 months of daily use.
I started using the regular version between late September and early October, and did notice that it worked much more slowly. After using it now for a few months, it is effective, but it’ll take longer to see a difference. There wasn’t any irritation with it either, although I find it feels just a tiny bit warm on my skin immediately after application (this feeling disappears after a few seconds). I’m using the same amount as the premium one, so It’s on track to get finished at around 4 months of use as well.
I bought both of them from dokodemo: the regular version for roughly USD$11 and the premium version for roughly USD$14 (conversion rates will vary slightly). If you’re at all familiar with ascorbic acid serums, you’ll know that these are crazily affordable in comparison to many out there.
Overall, if you’re looking to try vitamin c out for the first time, or as an anti/well aging measure, I recommend the regular version.
If you’re specifically looking to fade sun spots/post acne marks, then I recommend the premium version. It definitely justifies the slightly higher price point to me by being more effective, but you’d have to have ‘something to effect’ to notice it!
Thank you for reading until the end, and I hope this was helpful to you!
Review: Illiyoon Mild Easy-wash Sun Cream SPF50+ PA++++
Illiyoon is a Korean skincare brand owned by Amore Pacific, known for making gentle products for sensitive skin that are often compared to the French brand CeraVe.
This sun cream, formulated by Kolmar, has become a favourite of mine for the colder months (which here in Scotland is roughly September-May...) for a few key reasons:
Firstly, its size. It’s very rare to find a Korean sunscreen that comes in a bigger package than 60ml, and this is 150ml! When it comes to a product like sunscreen, which you have to apply liberally and often, size matters. This also makes it more affordable- the price varies but on oliveyoung global, it’s $40 when not on sale (this is the highest price I’ve seen it at, btw). That’s $0.02/mL, which when compared to say the Dr.G Mild Up Sun+ which is $31 for 50ml and $0.62/mL on the same site, is a pretty damn good deal (although the latter does come with some pretty good ‘freebies’ whereas the former does not).
Secondly, its pump-type packaging. You can lock and unlock the pump itself to protect the formula from oxidising (fwiw, it has a 12 month PAO), so no worries there, and it makes applying this in the morning convenient. I do 3 layers of 1 pump each, spread across my whole face/neck with a few seconds in between to let it dry down. When applied this way, it sinks in well with a velvet/skin-like finish that isn’t greasy or drying. The formula is certainly on the more moisturising side, which makes it perfect for protecting the skin against harsh winter weather, but it hasn’t broken out my acne-prone skin after about 2 weeks of continuous use.
Thirdly and finally, the ‘easy-wash’ part. Winter tends to = dry and sensitised skin, which means if I can cut down on harsh products at all it’s appreciated. Unlike in the summer where I’m looking for a product I know won’t get sweated off, in the winter I do my best to avoid the need for a double cleanse. With this, I can skip an oil cleanser and only use a water based/foaming cleanser in the evening, which my skin barrier is loving.
Ingredients-wise it’s pretty simple; it has a few plant extracts towards the bottom of the inci list like skullcap root, angelica acutiloba root, and centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extracts. Aside from that it’s fairly basic, it doesn’t have the ceramides that illiyoon is known for, or any particularly impressive actives- but this is not a complaint! For me, it’s most important that a sunscreen is user-friendly, and this one certainly is.
The UV filters used are homosalate, octisalate, uvinal A plus, tinosorb S, and mexoryl SX. These are all organic/chemical filters, meaning they won’t leave a white cast! I was happy to see it was an organic sun scream, as typically ‘mild’ in the world of Korean skincare means inorganic/mineral SPF filters.
The texture is a medium-weight cream, and it doesn’t sting my (very sensitive) eyes, or skin. It also hasn’t stained my white tops, which is something I’ve had trouble with in the past.
With all this in mind, I’d happily recommend the illiyoon mild easy-wash sun cream to anyone looking for a reliable and affordable sun cream to use in the winter. I’d say it’s probably not the best if it’s summer/very warm where you live, though, as it could sweat off in the heat
I bought this from ABHolic for ₩17,940 (~£11.25) which makes it ridiculously well priced if you ask me.
It’s also on StyleKorean for $21.00USD, YesStyle for £27.26, and StyleVana for £22.89
Dr.G Green Mild Up Sun+ SPF50+ PA++++ is a suncream that is very popular in Korea (at time of writing it is #2 on the Korean oliveyoung's best sellers list for suncare) and it's easy to see why. It is a gentle, fragrance free zinc oxide suncream, with a minimal white cast, and designed for daily use. It's marketed towards those with sensitive skin, and emphasises that it can be used by anyone regardless of age or gender
It is manufactured by Kolmar Korea, which gives me confidence in its formulation and UV protection claims.
The texture is soft and creamy, and spreads easily across the skin without tugging. When it dries down it is a little more drying than your typical organic/chemical SPF, but much less so than a lot of inorganic/mineral ones. When it comes to the white cast of course I can only speak for my own experience with it, and I'm basically a ghost, but I can easily say it has the best white cast of any mineral-only sun cream that I've tried. Here's my face with it freshly applied on half
Can you... tell which half I put it on?
(fyi: I always apply sunscreen liberally. I've seen some people claim mineral sunscreens dry clear, and show videos of themselves applying the tiiiiniest bit to prove it. I generally use 3 fingers for my face and neck, so you're looking at 1 1/2 on half)
I'd guess they use Nano zinc oxide to achieve this finish, which is something I wish more brands would do. There's some fearmongering going on about Nano zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, but so far as I can tell there's about as much validity to it as the claim that parabens cause cancer (see: practically none) and it clearly has its advantages for anyone who prefers inorganic sunscreens.
It is also formulated with antioxidants including heartleaf, centella asiatica, and pycnogenol (full inci list can be found in the oliveyoung link at the bottom). Antioxidant ingredients are great to see anywhere, but especially in sunscreen as they can help to boost the protection your skin has against external stressors!
Honestly, if you're more of an organic sunscreen sort of person, I probably wouldn't rush to buy it. It's very good for what it is, but there are options out there (including from Dr.G) which will be a bit more moisturising, and won't leave any white cast regardless of your skin tone for sure. I'm always going to be a little biased against mineral sunscreen, as even if (like this one) I can use it without a white cast, I can't necessarily say the same for someone with dark skin.
HOWEVER, if you generally prefer mineral sunscreen anyway, this is easily the best one I've tried. In the past I've used some hyped up mineral sunscreens and been sorely disappointed, but this one really delivered on its promises for me!
Where to buy?
As Dr.G is a popular brand and this is one of their most popular products, most online K-Beauty sellers will have this! The price varies, but is generally what I’d consider ‘the more affordable side of pricy’.
OliveYoung Global has a special set with the 50ml suncream, a 10ml mini, and a 10ml foam cleanser - currently for $27.00USD
YesStyle has the 50ml suncream for £17.56GBP (~$24.00USD)
I have a mental list of all the kbeauty brands who are underrated for no understandable reason, and aqulabo is right at the top of it. They're a yoga-inspired brand with a small, but thoughtfully curated line of products, made with ingredients or textures you don't see all that often.
Their kombucha first breath-like toner first caught my eye because it is literally eye-catching, with its bright orange colour and bubbles- which are natural characteristics of the kombucha making up 88.33% of its formulation.
Kombucha is a drink made of fermented tea. According to wikipedia it is 'lightly effervescent' (it's a bit fizzy), and as it's fermented, it is acidic in nature. On the skin, it’s lightly exfoliating and contains antioxidants and minerals, while also having all the regular benefits of tea for the skin.
Along with kombucha, they also advertise urea as a key ingredient. Urea is a natural moisturising factor (NMF) that is found in the skin (...also pee), and strengthens the skin barrier. It's also a mild keratolytic agent, meaning that it helps break down bonds between old skin cells, similarly to how AHAs do!
The rest of the inci list is fairly simple, mostly humectants including arginine (also an NMF), trehalose, glycerine... both galactomyces and lactobacillus (2 popular 'probiotic' ingredients that are quite trendy in kbeauty right now) are here. It's fragrance free, and really doesn't smell of anything.
In the bottle, this looks quite thick and gloopy. However as you spread it on the skin, it turns very watery and lightweight. It *is* hydrating, but it isn't one that'll plump your skin visibly and leave you 'bouncy' the way something with hyaluronic acid might. That said, the hydration it does provide will last you all day, whereas other products may initially leave you plumped and then gradually disappear in a few hours.
Rather than hydration, what I love this for is the gentle exfoliation it gives. I can use this pretty much every day, and during the summer, that's what I've needed. Using this has helped with the appearance of pores, and random breakouts I've been getting due to the hellish combination of heat + mask wearing. It leaves my skin feeling comfortable, de-congested, and smoother to the touch. I've used it in the past (two 50ml minis, and one full size) and each time, it's one I've only truly appreciated after finishing it.
During the colder months, I'd opt for something purely dedicated to hydration, and use a stronger exfoliant less often. But during the summer, this is the perfect daily toner for keeping my skin in overall good health.
This has a generous 250ml size, which should last several months if you only apply one layer at a time. I’d recommend that instead of applying more layers for more hydration, you choose another product (be that another toner, serum, or some other marketing term), as like I said, this isn’t as hydrating as something with HA* would be.
(*lately I keep seeing people say HA is overrated, and although you’re of course entitled to your opinion, I heavily disagree!!)
My only complaint (I suppose) with this product is that the period after opening that you have to use it is 6 months, rather than the standard 12. This isn’t a big deal for me personally, I’m sure I’ll get it finished before then, but I could see it being a problem for some other people.
When I first heard that Soo Beauty was coming out with a skincare brand, I was excited. Soo is one of the Kbeauty influencers that I’ve been following for the longest, and she’s also probably the content creator whose recommendations most often hit the mark for me. Both my fave cleanser (bellamonster’s sensitive care solution whipping foam) and everyday sun cream (wellage’s hyper toning sun ampoule) were bought on her recommendations!
That said, I’m not really a toner pad person. I’ve used a couple in the past, but I’ve always had the same problems with them: they’re tiny, they dry up as I’m wiping my face, and they feel rough on the skin. Soo (who is a toner pad fan) talked about all of these herself, and said she’d made sure to address these issues with her own product
Ingredients
This is a really simple formula, with a total of just 16 ingredients! I’ts fragrance free, and I can certainly say it doesn’t smell of anything at all. You can view the full inci list on incidecoder... well, I uploaded it (you’re welcome) and as of writing this it hasn’t been approved yet, but you can still view it through this link. I copied the ingredients list printed on the package.
I can’t say I’m familiar with cabbage as a topical ingredient, but Soo said she chose it because of the anti-inflammatory effects she’s noticed (on her skin and in her body generally) from drinking cabbage juice every day. Even without the cabbage, though, this would be a lovely calming product because of all the other soothing plant ingredients: centella asiatica, green tea, aloe vera, cucumber, and roman chamomile!
But, what’s possibly even more important than the ingredients in this particular case is the actual toner pad itself
The pad
Unlike other pads I’ve used, these are sooper soft, and don’t feel dry or drying on the skin at all. I have particularly sensitive skin myself, so this is something I especially look out for. They’re made of 100% cotton.
Size-wise, these aren’t actually the biggest I’ve tried... but they are the softest by far. Hopefully you can tell from the photo below, that the larger pad (which is the miplay tea tree pad, btw) has a rougher texture - making it better for exfoliation, but not so good for daily use or soothing care, which is Soo good’s focus.
I wouldn’t say either are necessarily better than the other, but for soothing I’d definitely choose Soo’s.
They’re especially nice in the morning, on days I don’t feel a proper cleanse is necessary (see: most days). A single pad contains enough essence to go over the entire face without drying up, and although I’m not the most experienced with toner pads, the feel so calm toner pads are the most hydrating ones I’ve found. What I really like is that I actually feel that I’ve applied a toner when I use these, rather than just rubbing some fabric on my skin and having to follow up with more products to actually hydrate it.
But, the way I find myself using these most often is by putting one on either cheek and leaving it as a 5 minute sheet mask. This is really good for reducing redness, giving you skin a hydration boost, and taking a little selfcare breather - calming both for your skin and your mind ヽ(￣ω￣ )
On the note of waste, I know a lot of people don’t like using single-use cotton pads. Personally, I reduce waste in many other areas of my life (minimal wardrobe, don’t drive, try my best only to buy things I need) so I feel that I can let myself use sheet masks and single use pads. I do also appreciate that these, unlike most sheet masks, come in a big packet rather than being individually wrapped. Also, guys, reusable cotton pads are not nice to use at all, stop lying to me.
Price + where to buy
I got them on stylekorean for $23.40 (sale price) - roughly £17 - for 170ml of essence and 60 pads. This is a little more expensive than I’d normally pay for a toner, but not so much I feel like I’m really splashing out.
Depending on where you live, they might work out cheaper from credithink
I can see myself buying these again, and I’m also looking forward to what Soo brings out in the future!
Review: Protocol Lab Vitamin C Superserum and Double AHA & Aloe Cleanser
I won these in a giveaway from glowsb4bros, to whom I am eternally grateful. Protocol is a much pricier brand than I’d normally be using, meaning 2 things: firstly, I was very excited. Secondly, I am approaching this review from the perspective of someone who would really prefer to not want to go out and repurchase these myself, so I was ready to be very critical.
Vitamin C Superserum
A serum with 10% l-ascorbic acid (the pure form of vitamin c), which boasts the ability to give ‘smoother, brighter, glowy-er skin in 7 days of continuous use’.
It costs USD$72 (~£50) which is pricy for a skincare product, although a pretty normal price for an l-ascorbic acid serum. Which... is why I’ve never used one before. It’s cheaper than other comparable products, cult classics like skinseuticals or drunk elephant are USD$100+ and as protocol points out, most more affordable vitamin c serums use a derivative rather than pure l-ascorbic acid. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but derivatives have less evidence to back them up, and products formulated with them often actually use other ingredients to give the brightening effects attributed to the vitamin c.
Protocol uses a unique packaging system that allows it to be bottled in an environment without being exposed to oxygen or light, both of white degrade l-ascorbic acid, making it crucial to use up vitamin c serums up as quickly as possible. The fact that this is made without being exposed to air or light gives it a longer shelf life!
Saying that, I used it up within the 60 days it’s marketed to last. I used one pump every morning (after a hydrating toner, before moisturiser and sun cream) and experienced minimal irritation - which surprised me, as I normally have sensitive skin.
This came at a really good time for me, as I’ve mostly got rid of my acne (which I’ll talk about in a separate post) but still had a lot of blotchiness in the form of post-acne marks, which can take months to years to fade on their own. Vitamin c is of course the go-to ingredient for helping speed up the process of fading them
I noticed fairly quickly that some spots were fading, and after about a month I really saw a visible difference.
Photos left to right: 13th April, 16th May, 6th June (today) - a few days after emptying.
It’s always best to keep your expectations realistic with products like this. As you can see, my skin still isn’t perfect. It is a lot more even-toned, though, and I’m happy with the results I’ve seen
Double Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cleanser with green tea & aloe
I really underestimated this one.
This is a foaming gel cleanser, which costs USD$!! Quite expensive for a cleanser. It’s made with aloe vera, exfoliating AHAs, and a few things that surprised me.
Firstly, it uses sodium laureth sulfate, which is one of the most common ingredients to find on ‘icky’ or ‘free from’ lists used by brands who use ‘clean’ marketing. This isn’t actually an ‘icky’ ingredient, but it is known for being harsh on the skin. Then, it also has sage and lavender essential oils, and orange fruit extracts, all of which are things I tend to approach with caution--especially lavender oil--because of reactions I’ve had to them in the past.
But, I don’t like to judge products by their inci lists alone, so I wasn’t going to let these things stop me from using then product, especially as it’s a wash off product which makes it less likely to irritate the skin anyway.
I’ve used AHA and BHA cleansers in the past, and I’ve been fairly unimpressed with their exfoliating abilities. AHAs are a bit hit or miss with me, often leaving me feeling more stripped and irritated than smooth and exfoliated, and in cleanser form they tend to have a habit of not doing a whole lot except making a cleanser feel harsher (I generally use the gentlest cleansers I can find).
When I first used this, I thought it was going to be a decent gel cleanser that I could probably use daily, and wasn’t expecting it to ‘resurface’ my skin or anything. After a couple of washes, I realised it really was exfoliating, and that my skin felt incredibly smooth after using it. After a couple of more washes, my skin was really angry with me. I remember coming out of the shower and realising that my skin was looking red, blotchy, and felt warm to the touch. All signs of overexfoliation.
Fortunately, I managed to calm my skin down pretty quickly (thanks cicaplast), but I learnt from my mistake and downgraded this from a daily cleanser to a ‘when my skin feels congested’ 2-3 times a week *exfoliant*. Used this way, especially with the weather warming up, it’s been really good for keeping oiliness and blackheads at bay, while being gentler than a physical scrub and easier to work into my routine than a leave on AHA. I haven’t had any trouble with feeling stripped or sensitised since using it this way!
I looked around the website for directions on how frequently to use it, but couldn’t find any. I think it would be a good idea for the brand to warn customers with sensitive skin that this is a powerful product that should be incorporated into your routine slowly, and maybe only used a few times a week. In fact, that probably goes for all of their products (except perhaps the moisturiser), although I suppose that would interfere with their line of all their products being ‘designed for 30 or 60 day use‘. This cleanser is going to last me quite some time
In conclusion...
I’d highly recommend the vitamin c superserum to anyone who can afford it, and am considering buying it myself despite not really being sure that I can. The cleanser is good for those who do well with a lot of exfoliation, and especially anyone who has felt let down by exfoliating cleansers before, but isn’t something I’m likely to buy for myself (I’m more of a PHA typa guy).
Protocol is an interesting and innovative brand that I will be keeping a very close eye on! I’m incredibly grateful for being able to try these products out, and hope that my thoughts have been helpful to some of you
Cosrx is a brand popular in both the west and home in Korea, and known for their simple formulations with high concentrations of effective ingredients. Their full fit line uses propolis, or bee glue, which is said to be anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory. It’s found in kbeauty pretty often, although it hasn’t caught on in the west yet, unlike honey (also in here) which seems to be loved everywhere.
Propolis can also cause irritation in some skins, which is why I’ve avoided this entire line from cosrx for a good while now. I’ve had bad experiences from products and ingredients that are supposed to be soothing but backfire for me, and I just didn’t want to take a chance with this. What changed my mind? Well... seeing it everywhere on instagram relentlessly just wore me down after long enough. Unsure how to feel about that, but ultimately I’m glad I did try it. I got a 50ml mini for ~$5 just to satiate my curiosity, and ended up reaching for it every morning and evening until I ran out of it. I had to force myself to empty out the toner I was using at the time, before ordering the full sized version of this asap
After using it for a little over a month, I think I’m ready to give my full thoughts on this toner!
Ingredient highlights
As with most cosrx formulations, this toner has a minimal inci list with only 14 ingredients- none of which are fragrant. You can see the full list by clicking here.
The most notable ones are
Black Bee Propolis extract (72.6%): cosrx is known for having products made with high concentrations of a few ingredients, and the propolis synergy toner is a brilliant example of this. There are various studies supporting various claims made about this propolis, but the most important things to bear in mind about it are its anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and potentially sensitising properties. It’s also worth knowing that ‘propolis extract’ doesn’t mean pure propolis, but a combination of propolis, probably a preservative, maybe some water or glycerine etc. Look up pictures of what propolis on its own looks like if you don’t believe me!
Honey extract (10%): Honey is one of my favourite natural ingredients. It’s moisturising, soothing, and any time I use something with it in my skin is left unbelievably soft. Honey isn’t featured in the ampoule from this line, which is also why I went for the toner over that. Same ‘extract’ rules apply
Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract: highlighting as (at time of writing) inci decoder doesn’t have an article on it. This is Chinese Senna seed extract, known as 결명자 (gyeolmyeongja) in Korea. It’s used in traditional Korean medicine, although I’m not an expert and can’t find anything specifically talking about its supposed benefits for the skin. It seems likely that it’s being used as a humectant
Betaine and panthenol: popular humectant, both of which (especially panthenol) are becoming very popular to highlight as key ingredients. Betaine is an amino acid derivative, and panthenol is pro-vitamin B5, which (similarly to propolis) is anti-inflammatory, and has skin protecting properties.
Everything else is either a humectant, or holding the formulation together (ie emulsifying/preserving)
My experience
The texture of this is fairly thicc, but doesn’t feel heavy. Normally I like more lightweight toners that I can layer 2-3 times, as I’ve found this works best to keep my oily-dehydrated skin deeply hydrated without clogging my pores. However with this one, which is almost like a light serum texture, I only use one layer (maybe a second if I get carried away patting it in) and it sinks in deeply, leaving me feeling hydrated from inside my skin. I have used more layers to experiment with it, and I never found that it built up greasy the way some products do, but I also didn’t find this necessary or particularly beneficial.
Because of its anti-bacterial properties, propolis is often associated with being helpful for acne. My skin is acne prone, although I’m on tretinoin and don’t generally like to comment on how well products like this work on that front because of this. I will say that it never broke me out, so I’d feel confident recommending this to someone with ance-prone skin, but I would not recommend using this as a dedicated anti-acne product over a retinoid or something more powerful like that. As a supporting role, though, this is really nice to have.
Overall the best thing about this product is the user experience. There are a million hydrating toners, but this one stands out to me because of its gorgeous yellow colour, thicker texture, and how a little goes a long way. The potential for acne-fighting part is, for me, just an added bonus.
Conclusion & where to buy
This is a simple, thicker-textured hydrating toner that may support your fight against acne, and will leave your skin deeply hydrated with only one or two (if you want) layers. It would be good for all skin types, but especially those with combination or oily-dehydrated (like I have) skin.
I bought this for $16/150ml on stylekorean, roughly £11.30
Alternatively, The 280ml is KRW22,00 (£13.70) on testerkorea, and there’s a special set of 280ml + 150ml on oliveyoung global for USD$23.20 (£16.35) which is an absolute bargain!
I could absolutely see myself buying this again in the future, and my success with this has really got me interested in other propolis products as well!
NOTE: all non-Asian sunscreens mentioned are the versions sold in the EU/UK. if a brand sells a product with the same name in the US/Canada, the ingredients will be different! ALSO, the links are for your convenience/reference, I don’t make anything from them.
What's the most important step in your skincare routine? It'd be difficult to narrow this down to just one step, but it'd be easy to make an argument for it being sunscreen. Although I'm staunchly against 'sunscreen shaming' I tell everyone the same thing: there's no point using anti-aging or anti-oxidant products if you're not topping it off with a solid sunscreen. Many of the heavy hitting anti-acne ingredients (retinoids, AHAs) make your skin more sensitive to the sun as well, so if you use either of those it's even more important.
To make sure I get proper protection, I use 2 finger lengths of sunscreen for my face, and the same again for my neck + ears. I also reapply throughout the day (every two hours isn't realistic, but I generally do it at least twice). This means I get through SPF quickly; a 50ml tube lasts me ~2.5 weeks. With that out of the way, here’s the list in no particular order!
Skinnies Conquer SPF50+ PA++++
Filters: Uvinal A Plus, Bemotrizional, Octocrylene, Zinc oxide
✔️ No white cast*
✔️ No skin irritation
✔️ No eye irritation
Contains a fragrant EO (manuka oil)
(*although I sincerely doubt this would leave a white cast on anyone, it should be noted that I have pale-ass skin and zinc oxide is known for leaving a cast, which means it could be problematic for darker tones and it's just subtle enough that I didn't notice. proceed with caution)
Skinnies is a little controversial, because of their 'a little goes a long way' claim. I suggest watching this video from Lab Muffin Beauty Science (if you haven't already) to learn more about that. I experimented with using both a pea sized amount as suggested by the brand, and a normal amount for safety's sake.
It has a balm-like texture that you have to heat up in your hands to make spreadable, and because of its waterless formula it doesn't 'dry down' at all- so if you feel greasy putting it on at first, you'll pretty much stay greasy. I found it manageable, and if you want to trust the pea sized amount it works well at being moisturising without being too much. It may have clogged my pores, although that was definitely made worse by wearing a mask
For some reason, I really like skinnies, and if I'm wearing my normal 2 finger amount I feel very much protected because it's very water resistant - a double cleanse is entirely necessary with this one. I'm gonna wear this some more in the summer, and come back to it then
Verdict: TBD
Garnier Ambre Solaire sensitive face fluid SPF50 UVA★★★
I wanted to try this one because it was all over my instagram feed for a while, but it does NOT live up to the hype. Firstly, 40ml is tiny, and 3 stars for UVA isn't enough for me personally. I'd forgive this if it had a wonderful texture, but it felt strangely harsh on my skin (almost gritty... although there's nothing gritty in it), and left me looking dull, as if I didn't have a million layers of toner and serums on. But, still, props for being an affordable, white-cast free sunscreen that didn't sting my eyes.
Verdict: would not repurchase
Garnier Ambre Solaire Anti Age Super UV SPF50 UVA ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Filters: Octocrylene, Avobenzone, Uvinal T 150, Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL
✔️ No white cast
❌ Minor skin irritation
❌ Stings my eyes
Unscented
I got this at the same time as the other Garnier one, kinda Just Because. This one is nicer to apply and it doesn't have that 'gritty' feeling to it. However, it irritates my skin (a tiny bit), stings my eyes after a while, and... it pills. a lot. My partner kept pointing out my neck, saying it looked like I had blobs of dead skin rolling around... not a choice look, honestly (and knowing the protection has been made patchy is even worse)
Verdict: would not repurchase
Ultrasun Extreme SPF50+ PA++++
Filters: tTnosorb M (nano), Titanium dioxide (nano), Octisalate, Tinosorb S, Uvinal A Plus, Uvinal T 150
❌ White cast
✔️ No skin irritation
❌ Eye irritation
Fragrance free (but smells of sunscreen)
Sooooooooo, when it comes to cosmetic elegance, I expect less from 'extreme' sunscreens. If I'm at the beach, or running, or doing something else where getting burnt is a serious concern, I can manage a white cast or a sticky texture. But both of those, on top of stinging my eyes, and (I think) clogging my pores... nah. I don't want to say this is a bad sunscreen, I just don't think something like this is necessary in today's age. I did not feel comfortable applying the right amount of this. In a world where there are SPF50 products that won't hurt me, why settle for one that does? That's where I'm at with this
Verdict: would not repurchase
Avène Solaire Anti-Aging SPF50+
Filters: Iscotrizinol, Avobenzone, Tinosorb M, Tinosorb S
❌ Slight white cast (would be worse on dark skin)
✔️ No skin irritation
✔️ No eye irritation
Unscented
You know, when a sunscreen is just terrible, I can deal with that. It's to be expected. But when a sunscreen is this close to being flawless, the one or two minor things holding it back just sting even more. This is a wonderful sunscreen for sensitive skin, with a natural/skin-like finish that is neither drying nor greasy, is water resistant (!), and fantastic for acne - it's been my go-to for wearing under a mask for long periods. The filters used are also incredible, with the single exception of Tinosorb M, which is the cause of its fatal flaw...
It has a white cast. It isn't the worst I’ve seen, in fact on my pale skin tone it's almost unnoticeable. But it is there (of course it’d be worse on darker skin tones) and it's the only thing keeping this off of my 'favourite ever sunscreens' list, which is such. a. shame.
Verdict: may repurchase, begrudgingly
Evy Daily Defense Face Mousse SPF50+ PA++++
Filters: Octocrylene, Avobenzone, Uvinal A Plus, Tinosorb S
✔️ No white cast
✔️ No skin irritation
❌ Slight eye irritation (just be careful putting it on)
Unscented
I've been walking past Evy sunscreens for ages. something about the packaging made me assume it would be one of those nasty, sticky/pasty things. Evy, I'm so sorry! this applies like a dream, has a satin finish (i.e. neither dead- nor sweaty-looking), can be used in place of moisturiser, didn't break me out, and didn't irritate my skin. It's also sweat/water resistant. If it gets right in my eyes it stings, but it's easy enough to just avoid sticking my fingers in my eyeballs. If you're asking 'what's the catch?' well, if you're in Europe: there isn't one.
If you're in the US/Canada: it's hard af to get your hands on
If you're anywhere else: search to see if you can get it. Right now. Please!
Verdict: will repurchase, recommend to everyone, never shut up about, cry if it ever gets discontinued
Neogen Dermalogy Probiotics Sun Cream SPF50 PA++++
Filters: Octocrylene, Octinoxate, Octisalate, Avobenzone, Tinosorb S
✔️ No white cast
✔️ No skin irritation
❌ Irritated eyes
Strong, sweet fragrance
This is a decent, basic sunscreen. On the heavier/moisturising side, so only suitable for winter on my oilier skin. Made with probiotic ingredients (because what isn't nowadays), but nothing particularly stand-out (I'd rec probiotics in an earlier step such as an essence). Has a strong, sweet fragrance, which might be a pro if you hate 'sunscreen smell' or a con if you have sensitive skin. If you find this for cheap and want something for daily/mostly indoor use, this is totally worth a try- especially if you have dry skin. But for oily skin or the summer, I’d definitely say there are better ones out there.
For those who are concerned about Korean sunscreen ratings: this was NOT one which failed independent SPF testing. The ones that were, as far as I know, were all formulated by the same 2 companies. From my understanding, Neogen's products are formulated in-house, so there's no reason to avoid this one on that basis. In fact, I’d consider it a relatively trustworthy one
Verdict: would repurchase, on sale in the winter
No.7 Protect & Perfect Intense advanced SPF50+
Filters: Octocrylene, Avobenzone, Tinosorb M, Tinosorb S, Octisalate, Iscotrizinol
❌ Slight white cast (could be worse on darker skin tones)
✔️ No skin irritation
✔️ No eye irritation
Fragranced
There are a few things I like about this: it’s sold as part of a skincare line, rather than a whole like of suncare (i.e. Boots’ soltan), and it’s clearly intended for daily use. It even tells you that the 50ml pack contains 20 applications, to give users a better understanding of how much to apply (though I got through it in fewer because I also used it on my neck and hands). The texture isn’t bad—especially by western standards—it doesn’t pill, and it hasn’t irritated my eyes at all. It’s a little tacky to the touch, and leaves a slight cast that could be problematic for darker skin, but on my pale skin it disappears pretty quickly and just makes my skin look ‘glowy’ according to my partner. It’s on the shiny side, but not too much. Overall, a very ‘okay’ product that I’m not gonna run back to, but would be fine with using again
Verdict: would repurchase
From the sunscreens I’ve tried so far this year, my favourites are the Evy Daily Defense Face Mousse and the No7 Protect & Perfect Intense Advanced Facial Sun Protection (even if it does have an unnecessarily long name). Weirdly, this list only has the one Korean sunscreen on it, when normally that’s what I use the most of! I think I’ve been influenced a little too much by what I’ve seen on IG, but going forward I’ll be sticking more to Asian sunscreens again
