courtesy of @thestop in #Toronto - easy #howto for #seedsaving for all the #urban #gardeners
Tips and Tricks: -Make sure your seeds are open-pollinating!
-Save seeds from your best plants.
-Make sure the seeds are dry and store in paper bags/envelopes or sealed glass jars
-Save seeds from a different plants in the same variety for genetic diversity
- For things not on this list, you should try them, but first check whether the plant needs to be isolated to save it’s seed true to type (is it self-pollinating, insect or wind pollinated?)
Self- Pollinating Annuals- This means they have flowers that have both male and female parts in each flower. They do not require pollen from neighbouring plants and tend not to cross-pollinate with each other.
Peas: Just let the plants die off, and gather the seeds from the pods. You can grow many varieties in the same plot, and they will not cross.
Tomatoes: There is a very small chance of cross pollination with other tomatoes; it’s good to avoid letting the plants touch and allow a few meters of space between the plants, if possible. Save from multiple plants for genetic diversity. Save by fermenting seeds of ripe tomatoes for about 3 days (cover with a tiny bit of water, then wait for goo layer to form on the top), strain with water, then set out to dry.
Tomatillo/ground cherry: Take mature fruits and put in blender with water covering them, blend, then let settle. The seeds will sink and the debris and hollow seeds will float! Add more water and repeat the process until only clean seeds and water remain. Strain/screen out seeds from the water (make sure you have a small screen!) and lay out to dry (a glass plate works).
Beans: Just let plants mature and die, then gather the seeds from the pods. To be on the safe side, allow a bit of space between different types of beans if possible. Pole varieties are more likely to cross than bush varieties. Soy beans almost never cross. Lima (butter) beans and fava (broad) beans do cross with each other. Normal bush/pole beans, Soy Beans and Lima beans are three different species and will not cross with each other.
Peppers/eggplant: Similar to tomatoes, but to save seeds just let the fruit fully mature on the plant then lay the seeds out on a piece of paper to dry for a few days. For eggplant you can extract seeds easily by blending cubes in water. For hot peppers use rubber gloves.
Lettuce: does not usually cross pollinate, so you can grow as many different kinds as you want next to each other. Be careful not to save seeds from plants that bolt (or go to seed) prematurely as this is not a good trait in lettuce.
Okra: Let the pods mature and dry on the plant, then harvest for the seeds.
Biennials-this means going to seed every second year. These are more challenging but still suitable for a beginning seed saver to try.
Beet and Swiss Chard: These are both really the same species, only one is grown for the leaves and the other the root. You will have to pick one or the other if saving in the same garden. Save a few of the best roots (yes swiss chards have roots), cut off the tops ½ inch above the crown, dust off (but don’t wash!), and store in a cool, humid place over winter. In spring, plant root with the top of the root at soil level. Save the seeds when dry on the plant.
Parsnips: These are hardy enough to leave in the ground over winter. There are wild parsnips that can cross pollinate with what you grow in your garden, but I have not seen many of them in the city. Be sure to give these plants lots of space, because the flower stalk on them is huge. The sap of these plants is very irritating, so avoid contact with the skin.
Cross Pollinating Annuals- this means the pollen from one flower fertilizes another flower, either on the same or another plant. Either wind or insects carry the pollen.
Pumpkins, Squashes (Courgettes) and related: There is an easy trick to these. There are 4 main species of this kind of plant: Cucurbita Pepo, Cucurbita Moschata, Cucurbita Maxima and Cucurbita Mixta. As long as you and/or your neighbours don’t grow more than one of each species, they will not cross pollinate with each other. To save the seeds, let plants fully mature, then spread the seeds out to dry. And example of four you could grow together and save seed from are: Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), Butternut (Cucurbita moschata), Hubbard (Cucurbita maxima), Cushaw Pumpkin (Cucurbita Mixta). Find species information online or on seed packet. Note: being in an urban environment means you might not be able to control cross pollination if insects are visiting other squashes on your street, but give it a try and let us know how it goes!
Spinach- if you just grow one kind you can save the seeds. Don’t save from plants that bolt (aka. go to seed) first! Leave a few plants to go to seed- seeds will dry on the plant, then you can harvest them for planting later.
Arugula, Mustard- if you grow one of these early in the spring they may flower when no other brassicas are flowering yet, then you can save the seeds. They cross pollinate with other brassicas and eachother so make sure nothing else of that family is flowering at the time. Let dry on plant.
Dill, coriander, parsley (a biennial: will seed in second year), fennel, lovage, sage, etc.- most herbs are easy to save, but some do cross pollinate. If you want to save seeds then only let one variety of each herb flower, or just grow one variety. Let the seeds dry on the plant, then harvest. If you find that the seeds are falling off the plant you can tie a paper bag around the seed head and leave it on the plant to dry. If your seeds are not coming true they may have crossed with a neighbour’s seed, and it might be time to learn how to isolate you seeds (a future workshop topic)!
Research how to save seeds of the brassica, umbel, and allium family! They are more difficult as they can cross pollinate with lots of things, but certainly worth trying!
Some plants do not form seeds and so do not cross pollinate. These are often very easy to grow in your garden, save plant materials from and trade with others.
Garlic- save a few bulbs for replanting
Perennial Onions: Can dig up or leave in the ground
Potatoes- save in cold storage and put in warm place in may to sprout
Jerusalem Artichokes and Horseradish: Be careful, these can be very difficult to eradicate from your garden once you start growing them.
Rhubarb: In early spring or late fall when the rhubarb is dormant is the best time to split your plants. You just take a shovel and split the plant from the roots- then you can plant the root piece somewhere else or give it to a friend… the rhubarb revolution!
Different seeds last a different number of years. All seed should last at least one year. For information on how long seeds can last see http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07221.html
• Seeds of Diversity (www.seeds.ca) “How to Save your own Seeds” Helpful booklet on seed saving.
• “Seed to Seed: Seed saving and growing techniques for vegetable gardeners” Suzanne Ashworth, 2002
• “Seed Sowing and Saving” Carole B. Turner, 1998
• Seed Savers Exchange (US) www.seedsavers.org
• International Seed Saving Institute: www.seedsave.org
• Urban harvest, Toronto based seed company: http://www.uharvest.ca/
• Cottage gardener, great, local seed company: http://cottagegardener.com/ Family
• Cottage gardener, great, local seed company: http://cottagegardener.com/
• Richters herbs: www.richters.com/
• Baker creek (amazing, organic heirlooms) NOTE: U.S. company, some plants may be more accustomed to warmer climates: http://rareseeds.com/shop/
Helpful I.D. Hints: Common Plant Groupings
The family helps categorize plants. Within a family there are different species. Cross pollinating plants will cross with others in the same species within that family, but not with all of that family. (See above example under cucurbit seed saving.)
Alliums- Onions, leeks, garlic, chives
Nightshades (Solanacea)-Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes
Chenopod- Beets, spinach,chard
Umbel- Carrots, parsnips, dill, fennel
Aster- Lettuce, sunflower, dandelion
Cucurbit- Cucumber, melon, squash, zucchini.
Brassica- Broccoli, cabbage, kale, radish, arugulad they will not cross.
Tomatoes: There is a very small chance of cross pollination with other tomatoes; it’s good to avoid letting the plants touch and allow a few meters of space between the plants, if possible. Save from multiple plants for genetic diversity. Save by fermenting seeds of ripe tomatoes for about 3 days (cover with a tiny bit of water, then wait for goo layer to form on the top), strain with water, then set out to dry.
Tomatillo/ground cherry: Take mature fruits and put in blender with water covering them, blend, then let settle. The seeds will sink and the debris and hollow seeds will float! Add more water and repeat the process until only clean seeds and water remain. Strain/screen out seeds from the water (make sure you have a small screen!) and lay out to dry (a glass plate works).
Beans: Just let plants mature and die, then gather the seeds from the pods. To be on the safe side, allow a bit of space between different types of beans if possible. Pole varieties are more likely to cross than bush varieties. Soy beans almost never cross. Lima (butter) beans and fava (broad) beans do cross with each other. Normal bush/pole beans, Soy Beans and Lima beans are three different species and will not cross with each other.
Peppers/eggplant: Similar to tomatoes, but to save seeds just let the fruit fully mature on the plant then lay the seeds out on a piece of paper to dry for a few days. For eggplant you can extract seeds easily by blending cubes in water. For hot peppers use rubber gloves.
Lettuce: does not usually cross pollinate, so you can grow as many different kinds as you want next to each other. Be careful not to save seeds from plants that bolt (or go to seed) prematurely as this is not a good trait in lettuce.
Okra: Let the pods mature and dry on the plant, then harvest for the seeds.
Biennials-this means going to seed every second year. These are more challenging but still suitable for a beginning seed saver to try.
Beet and Swiss Chard: These are both really the same species, only one is grown for the leaves and the other the root. You will have to pick one or the other if saving in the same garden. Save a few of the best roots (yes swiss chards have roots), cut off the tops ½ inch above the crown, dust off (but don’t wash!), and store in a cool, humid place over winter. In spring, plant root with the top of the root at soil level. Save the seeds when dry on the plant.
Parsnips: These are hardy enough to leave in the ground over winter. There are wild parsnips that can cross pollinate with what you grow in your garden, but I have not seen many of them in the city. Be sure to give these plants lots of space, because the flower stalk on them is huge. The sap of these plants is very irritating, so avoid contact with the skin.
Cross Pollinating Annuals- this means the pollen from one flower fertilizes another flower, either on the same or another plant. Either wind or insects carry the pollen.
Pumpkins, Squashes (Courgettes) and related: There is an easy trick to these. There are 4 main species of this kind of plant: Cucurbita Pepo, Cucurbita Moschata, Cucurbita Maxima and Cucurbita Mixta. As long as you and/or your neighbours don’t grow more than one of each species, they will not cross pollinate with each other. To save the seeds, let plants fully mature, then spread the seeds out to dry. And example of four you could grow together and save seed from are: Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), Butternut (Cucurbita moschata), Hubbard (Cucurbita maxima), Cushaw Pumpkin (Cucurbita Mixta). Find species information online or on seed packet. Note: being in an urban environment means you might not be able to control cross pollination if insects are visiting other squashes on your street, but give it a try and let us know how it goes!
Spinach- if you just grow one kind you can save the seeds. Don’t save from plants that bolt (aka. go to seed) first! Leave a few plants to go to seed- seeds will dry on the plant, then you can harvest them for planting later.
Arugula, Mustard- if you grow one of these early in the spring they may flower when no other brassicas are flowering yet, then you can save the seeds. They cross pollinate with other brassicas and eachother so make sure nothing else of that family is flowering at the time. Let dry on plant.
Dill, coriander, parsley (a biennial: will seed in second year), fennel, lovage, sage, etc.- most herbs are easy to save, but some do cross pollinate. If you want to save seeds then only let one variety of each herb flower, or just grow one variety. Let the seeds dry on the plant, then harvest. If you find that the seeds are falling off the plant you can tie a paper bag around the seed head and leave it on the plant to dry. If your seeds are not coming true they may have crossed with a neighbour’s seed, and it might be time to learn how to isolate you seeds (a future workshop topic)!
Research how to save seeds of the brassica, umbel, and allium family! They are more difficult as they can cross pollinate with lots of things, but certainly worth trying!
Some plants do not form seeds and so do not cross pollinate. These are often very easy to grow in your garden, save plant materials from and trade with others.
Garlic- save a few bulbs for replanting
Perennial Onions: Can dig up or leave in the ground
Potatoes- save in cold storage and put in warm place in may to sprout
Jerusalem Artichokes and Horseradish: Be careful, these can be very difficult to eradicate from your garden once you start growing them.
Rhubarb: In early spring or late fall when the rhubarb is dormant is the best time to split your plants. You just take a shovel and split the plant from the roots- then you can plant the root piece somewhere else or give it to a friend… the rhubarb revolution!
Different seeds last a different number of years. All seed should last at least one year. For information on how long seeds can last see http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07221.html
• Seeds of Diversity (www.seeds.ca) “How to Save your own Seeds” Helpful booklet on seed saving.
• “Seed to Seed: Seed saving and growing techniques for vegetable gardeners” Suzanne Ashworth, 2002
• “Seed Sowing and Saving” Carole B. Turner, 1998
• Seed Savers Exchange (US) www.seedsavers.org
• International Seed Saving Institute: www.seedsave.org
• Urban harvest, Toronto based seed company: http://www.uharvest.ca/
• Cottage gardener, great, local seed company: http://cottagegardener.com/ Family
• Cottage gardener, great, local seed company: http://cottagegardener.com/
• Richters herbs: www.richters.com/
• Baker creek (amazing, organic heirlooms) NOTE: U.S. company, some plants may be more accustomed to warmer climates: http://rareseeds.com/shop/
Helpful I.D. Hints: Common Plant Groupings
The family helps categorize plants. Within a family there are different species. Cross pollinating plants will cross with others in the same species within that family, but not with all of that family. (See above example under cucurbit seed saving.)
Alliums- Onions, leeks, garlic, chives
Nightshades (Solanacea)-Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes
Chenopod- Beets, spinach,chard
Umbel- Carrots, parsnips, dill, fennel
Aster- Lettuce, sunflower, dandelion
Cucurbit- Cucumber, melon, squash, zucchini.
Brassica- Broccoli, cabbage, kale, radish, arugula
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