A flaneur in Hamburg

...inner tips and knowledge gained while strolling around this great city

[ihamburg]

StadtRAD Bicycle station, close to the Fischmarkt.

Hamburg is definitely a bicycle friendly city.

Most of the tour guides or blogs would not even mention Hamburg; Berlin (East Berlin, in particular) always steals the thunder.

But, there is one detail that few cities, of this scale, can offer: The bike/ sea combination.

[ihamburg]

Overwhelmed by human stories and -more or less- the modern history of Emigration I was thrilled to notice some relative information (slash) trivial, while exploring the Museum.

HAPAG, the first part of the grand brand of enterprises of HAPAG-Lloyd, comes out of the acronym Hamburg Amerikanische Paketfahrt Actien-Gesellschaft. The famous ship line that used to connect Hamburg with the American shores.

The official website offers great references and presentation to the long history of this organization, the developments of the owning consortium, as well as all the relevant information.

Apart from the later evolution and business development, another interesting case, is HAPAG's demanding building, by the BinnenAlster.

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on the main photograph:

A massive container before the Köhlbrandbrücke You can notice the captivating building of Dockland standing out from the background.

[ihamburg]

Smooth and avant-garde downtown

Earlier today, while strolling around the internet (sic), I came across this article advertorial about the hyper-modernistic interior design of an agency in downtown Hamburg.

Meters away from the Rathaus, you can spot a variety of eye-catching facades; all of which are as modern as it can be.

This block of the Inner city that I used to "get lost" around and never managed to understand my real location. Most of the time I would just seek for a canal, to drive me to the either the center or the Elbe.

It seems that the settings around the City Hall, as well as the premium retail storeswith the upbeat mosaics, do not only consist of a hot-spot for someone's affinity to walking around the city.

[ihamburg]

A taste of Mediterranea, some miles western-wards of Hamburg. The area of Blankenese, also known as Treppenviertel (the square of stairs) is the boat buses furthest station.

Remarkable staircase, cottages and villas surrounded by gardens and flowers. Exactly what I was expecting to find in an upscale barrio in Southern Athens. Fun to locate such a diversity - some kilometers away of the typical German opulent neighborhood.

[ihamburg]

Who else wants to Flomarkt?

Places like Hamburg would be incomplete without the corresponding open-air flea markets. 

Photograph from here

No need to write more - I guess you are familiar with the fact that ...you anything be found, among everything, around here.

The most interesting Flea Market in Hamburg takes place just across of the street Feldstrasse station. 

The Flohschanze is hosted in a beloved area of the city, in a former slaughter Hall (!)

please, never forget: this is Hamburg.

...

I was thrilled to see that each one of the Flea markets not only is scheduled beforehand, but also each date and theme is programmed months before

please, never forget: this is Germany.

[ihamburg]

The land where water costs more than beer

Or: the reason why Germans drink more beer than water

Beer prices Vs Bottled water prices, in a casual - street mini market of Hamburg (March 2010)

Remark: The beer brands on the image above, are considered to be of medium to high price range (in on the street markets).

A common beer would cost way less than 1€.

The title of this post might be a bit misleading (plain bottled water can be found in normal prices, in most of the big outlets - and, ok, Germans consume more water than beer)

This title, though, is the exact words that that crossed my mind, right after noticing these prices.

But, should it come as a shock that a bottle of water can be more expensive than a beer?

Truth is that, being accustomed to the average water price in the Greek market, every visit to NorthernEuropean countries, seems painful. The average price of water seems so ...overvalued .

Bottled water in Greece is more than a commodity, it is ubiquitous, virtually available everywhere - just notice the kiosks around the city (periptero)

Among other parameters, the bottled-water Greek business works in a prices-driven competition; probably one of the few markets in the national economy that compete under free structure.

On the contrary, Germans show -comparatively- great variation in preferences, and different approach to the perception of water. Numerous labels, types and innovation of packaging, even side products like mineral enriched or apple/ mint/ other flavored waters - corresponding to diverse marketing and promotion in the German market.

update: Interesting to mention: The particularity of a plethora of indigenous spring and mineral waters. More than 31 waters of special designation (!)

(since I started mentioning scientific parameters, I should not neglect...) the factors that lead consumers to prefer bottled water, the availability of quality tap water, overall marketing procedures, among others). Beyond the obvious (i.e. weather), other parameters play a significant role in shaping this somehow strange-to-value market and the difference between those two national markets.

(and) Above all: Consumer preferences. Different country, different attitude, different water culture.

...or in other words:

Never underestimate Germans affinity to beer.

Anyone knows this, per capita beer consumption is among the biggest, worldwide.

But, here is another element:

According to Food-history related publications, beer has been so particularly important to northern Europe because of a variety of reasons. One of which (back in the 17th century) is the avoidance of drinking probable contaminated water.

Beer in Germany originates as a craft, a part of everyday home economics and culture.

Taking into consideration the procedure and the timeline of development, one can just come to the conclusion.

Beer in Germany is much more than "just brewing". It is an idea.

[ihamburg]

Museum of Emigration

Hamburg's Veddel area (which, apparently, is an island), is a small quarter of the central borough, two S-Bahn train stations southerly of the city-center.

..and this was the only thing I knew about this area. Till I visited the BallinStadt Emigration Museum.

Photograph taken in the 2nd exhibition hall of the Museum

You see, Hamburg used to be one of the European "get-away" and crossing-the-ocean options. The Hamburg-American Line operated hundreds of transatlantic travels, transporting millions of emigrants.

Posters of the age (click to enlarge)

BallinStadt is a great museum conception. Starting with, I should just that it is way more interesting than how it's name sound. Apart from the complete collection and exhibition halls, there is a straight and to the point concept of presentation, applying modernities on most of the setting - which is equipped with all the relevant multimedia-s. A true and authentic experience, adding value to what any visitor observes.

After all: the setting is the same buildings, the halls are some of the exact rooms that once used to “host” the soon-to-be-immigrants.

Hamburg's Museum of Emigration succeeds in offering experiential introspection on history and genealogy; most of you have heard about ancestors of yours that had (have) migrated to the “New World”.

Its is like visiting the reverse Elis island, in Europe.

[ihamburg]

Hamburg's City Hall - history attack

Hamburg Rathaus -The City Hall of Hamburg- is probably the spot with highest concentration of “old-school” glamour and opulence, in the entire city. A building that passes on a central-European kind of feeling of charming old and aristocracy.

Nevertheless, the history and the essence of the building has always been democratic: the place where Hamburg’s elected authorities have been housed. Following the special state-city function, Hamburg Rathaus has double importance: the parliament of the state as well as the municipality.

Hamburg's City Hall during the week of Europa Cup final, May 2010

Cutting to the chase, my impressions & suggestions about the CIty Hall of Hamburg:

Visit it. Such a location, so much volume of architecture. Need an incentive? The exhibitions hosted in the lobby (ground floor) - Out of 3 visits I was lucky to come across 2 different. I guess that similar exhibitions are open to public, nowadays. What better than spending some quality time under such halls. Also, do not miss the statue/ fountain Of Hygieia (ancient Greek goddess Υγεία) in the Rathaus Atrium.

Photograph taken from here

Don’t be reluctant to have the guided tour. Even if you consider yourself only slightly interested in history, the opportunity of diving into Hamburg's developments & evolution, while being able to ask questions, is worthy.

Pay attention to details. For example: It is supposed that there are some secret rooms that nobody knows the exact location.

Carvings, emblems, coat of arms, heraldic signs of Freie und Hansestadt Hamburg. The entire place is overwhelmed with history, references and meanings.

Hamburg’s Hanseatic traditions are obvious throughout most of the halls. Plenty of well-presented, interesting information along photographs can revealmore information.

View of the Rathausmarkt and the Alsterarkaden, on the left. Photograph taken from a Hall in the 2st floor.

[ihamburg]

Wine. Wein. Vin. Enos. - in Germany

Beyond the Oktoberfest or any other beer-consumption image you have about Germany, you should learn that there is also a distinctive world of German wine.

In my case, I was lucky enough to get over with my "superiority complex" (this peculiar pride and narrow-mindedness of everyone coming from an area of long tradition in wine- making).

The fact that the only Greek bottles available in the market were some of the worse and cheapest ones, combined with the relevance of the purpose of my research, provoked me to some generic interest in wine-gastronomy.

So, more than ever, keen on imbibing, some tips I would like to share with anyone new in indigenous German vinos and shops:

Many wine lovers struggle to read the German names properly. I believe that even small knowledge of German language can be of real assistance in comprehending the pronunciation and never get it wrong . Still, here is the proper way:

In the mindset of (...elementary) food science, I should pass on that my first impression was as expected: way less sunshine leads to a comparatively low volume of alcohol. Most wines are of super-acidity, which depending on your preferences can be something tempting. In every way, German wines seem really carefully made. My little interest to Eiswein (Ice-wine) allows me zero opinion. For some objective opinions: essentials about the German wine are available all over the internet.

My suggestion on how to begin with testing: Find one or two similar-minded friends and explore the shelves in your neighborhood's supermarket. not forgetting that I was a student while in Hamburg! Simple as that, some common wine-browsing. Be sure to eliminate the really cheap price ranges (i.e. less that 4€)

Interesting thing is that a. In Hamburg (I guess in the rest of Germany, too) you can find massive supermarkets, even in close distance to the city center. b. The wine section are nearly as good as any proper wine store (discount supermarkets exclude.

What Germans drink. In overall, Germans don't drink that much of wine. Which is typical, anthropologically speaking. Nevertheless, looking at the data comparing cross-generational consumption, be really surprising information arise. Wine is gradually becoming part of the culture. Sekt (Sparkling Wine) is something big at the moment. My impression is that there is a fair amount of consumers willing to try new selections. Maybe this is one of the reasons you might find a big variety of "New World" wines in any supermarket or restaurant lists.

[ihamburg]

While on a ride across the Elbe, some meters away from the Magnificent Dockland, one can locate some more surprises of architecture.

Well executed renovation projects. Synthesis of the Port-traditional elements with modernity

Style and practicality.

[ihamburg]

The street of Colonnaden

The Greek word for Colonnade(n) is "kionostihia" (κιονοστοιχία).

Not only a bigger, but also a much more complete word (conceptually I'm saving the grammar remarks, you can just google it)

Apparently, there is no connection between this street and the etymology of the word Colonnades. I am pretty sure, though, that there is an explanation for the fact that a street is named after the sequence of columns.

So, in our case: Colonnaden Strasse has some great potential on strolling. I used to, more or less, walk up and down this street at least 3 times per week - with no obvious reason for this.

This centrally located spot shares some palatial aura. Beautiful buildings, different architecture than the surrounding streets, diagonal orientation on the map... And, above all, it starts from the central esplanade of Alster and lead to the casino.

What's more, Hamburg's official website, brands it as a high-profile and fashionable pedestrian street. Which is true.

Photo taken from here

Bookstores, collectors, some expensive and other luxurious stores, couture, stores on specialized fields, casual/urban modern restaurants, one of the most "compact" but also finest wine bar I have ever located in Germany.

Having a trip down the memory lane, walking up and down those mosaics gives the feeling of a great "boardwalk". Even better: When I'm thinking of a boardwalk, I remember this street. So, yep. Colonnaden street might not be as proper as a kionostihia, but for sure, this is a place as proper as a flaneur-favorable street.

[ihamburg]

Ok, baguette with fish.

Lots of sandwiches and, generally, a complete selection of fish.

That's all.

...not for my palate of tastes, anyway. The Northern fish seem all similar to me (maybe excluding some oily fish I cannot recall) and the covering dressings (seriously people, why?!) just go against all my beliefs about proper food.

But, hey, don't pay that much attention to a person's stubbornness.

This is the Northern sea: numerous different fish to try, and plenty of small, typical, pub-alike stores located all along the Elbe river to choose from. There is also a fast-food chain of fish which I only remember for its logo with a luminous fish. (ok, not that bad)

P.S. Hey, pay lots of attention to this: Make it possible to be around the area during a Sunday morning. In this case the fish-snack you will get may be fresh.

[ihamburg]

Lack of lights - abundance of sights

It took me just some "after-hours" tours around Hamburg to come to a realization: there is a ...thing with the lights in this city.

Either the lights of the buildings, or the overall image of the city during the night. It feels like there is not enough illumination.

Yet, this is a remark in every German city I have visited. Cities in Germany, seem less bright - compared to major European cities and places of interest.

Check the results of Google. Hamburg-by-night images varies from: photographs and panorama-s of the area of Inner Alster (probably the most illuminated area, in the entire city) to takes of particular events (fireworks, Hafen Geburstag, etc.) and -of course- the vibe of the night-out area of St.Pauli. Still, most of those photographs seem enhanced or digitally improved.

Not to be misunderstood: Hamburg has some majestic areas to offer; trust me, I am the guy that made an entire webpage dedicated to this. There are so many picturesque locations inviting to night-walks or taking gorgeous night-photographs.

But, I would like to see some more distinctive illumination, probably more highlighting light spots on distinguishing parts of buildings, or some special projectors on monuments. More or less, special parts of the city to be brighter - alike details that someone expects to find in other major European cities.

Why is that?

On an attempt to find the probable issues that keep Hamburg "abstaining" from more city lights, I would notice: ...the pragmatist German mindset that dictates productivity & practicality come first, and then the looks, ...the not so massive number of tourists. Or the low rates of criminality in the city center, ...an ecologically consciousness policy, …or the on-going industrial & port spirit that goes on, deep in Hamburg's DNA.

Οbserving the Port during the Hamburger night: maybe a bit dark but absolutely captivating

Nevertheless how dark Hamburg's city center seems, I should give some credit to the lack of big lights and the overall quietness. Any single spot in the city manages to emit a particular feeling of rest and peace; in an a essence of something big sleeping.

The strict layout of most of the buildings adds to the concept: Gazing the rooftops and the architectural detail ...under no concentrated light. I have to admit that, in a second thought, this lack of shinning lights assists to a certain creation of latent majesty.

[ihamburg]

Dockland in Hamburg Port

A building shaped like a yacht: how more architecturally appealing can this city be?

Architect Hadi Teherani’s creation is built on the head of a quay and considering its strategic position, the Dockland is a spotlight of the Hamburger Port. No matter how futuristic or peculiar it might look, when observed from some distance or from a boat in the Elbe River, Dockland feels like it got integrated into the port landscape.

You can reach the spot by getting a “bus” from the Landungsbrücken pier. For sure, it can be accessible by land (closer to Altona area than the city center). Nevertheless, I would recommend reach the Dockland by boat and leave by bicycle or bus. Or follow an alternative - as proposed in itinerary.

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If in any case you feel like watching this mega-landmark, live, there a Webcam, transmitting the view of the back-half of the Dockland, and great bridge of Köhlbrandbrücke (on the background)

The top level (platform) of Dockland  offers some great view

[ihamburg]

The Square of the Beatles, captured while cycling on Reeperbahn street.

As you can see in the second photograph, there is a small label on the "foot" of the figure, with the name Paul McCartney.

The interesting thing in this case is the controversy that goes around the figures. (Locals will definitely be better at explaining, in details) You see, the time that Beatles were performing in Reeperbahn, the band composition was different...

[ihamburg]

Hello Beatles Square! Hello "Beatles Platz", the in-shape-of-a-vinyl meeting point of Reeperbahn street.

Apparently, the Metallic figures standing on the square are representing the band members. At the same time, some of the most famous songs  of the Beatles are written on the floor, on a circle (vinyl's edges, I guess) around the square.

Apart from a commemoration to the historic band and their days in Reeperbahn & Hamburg and regardless of the aesthetics this square serves a lot to an area full of music, youth, tourist, bars, in a marketing perspective.

P.S. The image is taken from Erbzine

[ihamburg]

North Hamburg? Chic and upscale housing

The North borough of Hamburg city.

Hope I am not mistaken, the name of the borough is Hamburg North. Just beyond the northern bank of the big Alster and slightly westwards.

I was more than happy to randomly discover this area, while cycling around the northern part of the city.

Since the boarders of the Hamburgese quarters (Hamburg Bezirke) can be confusing, the …safest option for your navigation is to locate the Eppendorfer Baum str. or U-Bahn station.

Photograph taken from here

The first thing to draw your attention: The buildings. This particular kind of buildings that seem to be popular in the affluent barrios of Hamburg. Even though the result is pretty much "homogenized" (boring for some people?) this part of the city is in my top to-visit-again list.

Photograph taken from here

...and there is much of interesting stuff to see and do.

A personal canoe, in one of the small rivers of the area. Just by the stairway of a house.