Inno Interlocking

[innointerlocking]

Stone Dust, Screenings, and Other Base Shortcuts Ontario Homeowners Should Refuse

If you look at interlocking failures across the GTA, you see the same pattern over and over. The pavers are usually fine. The problem is what they were sitting on. One of the biggest hidden reasons for early failure is the choice of cheap, inappropriate base or bedding materials, especially stone dust and limestone screenings.

Stone dust, often sold as limestone screenings or crusher dust, is a by product of crushing larger stone. It is very fine, with some small chips mixed in, and it is widely available and inexpensive. That combination makes it attractive to some contractors as a “base” or bedding material. The issue is not that it will not compact. It compacts extremely well, in the sense that it forms a very dense, almost impermeable layer. In Ontario’s climate, that is exactly the problem.

When stone dust sits under pavers in a freeze thaw environment, it tends to hold moisture rather than drain it. The layer becomes a kind of sponge. Water enters from above but leaves very slowly, if at all. When freezing temperatures hit, that trapped water expands and pushes upward, lifting the pavers. When it thaws, the material can slump. Over many cycles, that movement shows up as heaving, settling, and an increasingly uneven surface. Landscape contractors who have gone back to repair old installations built over screenings often find that the base is saturated and pumping when they step on it, with no clear path for water to escape.

Stone dust also breaks down under repeated stress. Those very fine particles can lose structure over time, especially when they are repeatedly soaked, frozen, and thawed. In heavy traffic areas, that means the layer that once felt rock solid can start to shift and deform. Some installers who used stone dust in the past now publicly advise against it because they have seen how it leads to pavers heaving and sinking after only a few winters, and how much extra labour is required to remove it when rebuilding a failed base.

On clay heavy GTA sites, stone dust can make a bad situation worse. Clay already holds water and swells when frozen. When you add a dense, moisture retentive stone dust layer on top, you set up a system where water and fine particles from the clay can migrate into the stone dust, further weakening the interface between base and subgrade. Instead of acting as a bridge between the pavers and the soil, that layer becomes a zone of movement and breakdown.

It is not just stone dust that causes trouble. Generic “recycled crush” or road base with unverified gradation can also create problems. Recycled aggregate can be used successfully when it is processed and graded to a clear specification, but when the mix of particle sizes, fines, and contaminants is inconsistent, compaction performance becomes unpredictable. A base built from inconsistent recycled material might compact well in one area and poorly in another. Those differences do not always show up immediately, but they emerge over time as uneven settlement and localized failures.

Another shortcut is skipping Granular B on truly poor clay subgrades that need it, and placing Granular A directly on the native clay without geotextile. Over time, clay fines can be pumped up into the base under load and moisture, slowly filling voids in the Granular A. That reduces drainage and load bearing capacity. The base that once behaved like a well graded aggregate begins to act more like a cemented mass of mixed clay and stone.

Even when the right materials are specified, the bedding layer can become a weakness if its depth is wrong. A bedding layer that is thicker than about 1.5 inches becomes unstable. Instead of acting as a thin cushioned interface, it can behave like a soft, shifting layer that allows pavers to move and settle. A screeded layer that varies in thickness across the project introduces micro variations that may not be obvious on installation day but become visible as bumps, dips, and rocking pavers over time.

For homeowners, the practical defense against these shortcuts is to require clarity in writing. A professional quote for interlocking in Ontario should specify:

Primary base material by name: Granular A, not just “gravel” or “base.”

Whether a Granular B sub base is included for driveways on clay or problem soil, and at what depth.

Bedding layer material by name: concrete sand or High Performance Bedding (HPB).

Depth of each layer before and after compaction.

If you see “stone dust,” “limestone screenings,” or “crusher dust” listed as the bedding or base material, you have your answer. If the quote only uses generic words like “screenings” or “base” without type and thickness, ask the contractor to specify. Contractors who understand how bases behave in Ontario’s climate will have no trouble answering these questions, and many will explain why they avoid stone dust and ungraded recycled material under pavers.

Choosing a contractor who uses Granular A as the primary base, Granular B where needed, and concrete sand or HPB as the bedding layer is not about being fussy over minor details. It is about making sure the money you spend on pavers is sitting on a foundation that matches our climate, our soils, and our traffic loads.

For a fuller breakdown of which base materials belong where, how they perform in Ontario conditions, and which shortcuts show up most often in failed installations, you can read the complete guide here: Interlocking Base Materials in Ontario: Granular A, HPB and More.

[innointerlocking]

Concrete Sand vs HPB – Choosing the Right Bedding Layer for Ontario Interlock

Most homeowners never think about the thin layer directly beneath their pavers. They see the stone on top and maybe know there is “gravel” underneath. Hidden between the compacted base and the pavers is a 1 to 1.5 inch bedding layer that quietly controls how smooth, stable, and long lasting the surface feels. In Ontario’s freeze thaw climate, the material you use in that bedding layer matters.

The bedding layer sits on top of the compacted Granular A base and directly under the pavers. Its job is to provide a smooth, even surface for the pavers to rest on and to allow for fine height adjustments across the field. In most Ontario installations, that bedding layer is either concrete sand or High Performance Bedding, usually shortened to HPB. Both materials can work, but they behave differently when they get wet, freeze, and thaw season after season.

Concrete sand is the traditional choice. It is a coarse, well graded sand designed for use in concrete and commonly used as bedding under pavers. The Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute (ICPI) historically recognizes concrete sand as the standard bedding material for non permeable interlocking installations. When it sits on a well compacted Granular A base, concrete sand can perform adequately. It screeds smoothly, allows pavers to be adjusted into place, and under final compaction some of the sand moves slightly up into the bottom of the joints, helping to lock the system together.

The limitation of concrete sand in Ontario is how it handles water and freeze thaw cycles. Sand retains some moisture. In a climate where the ground can go through dozens of freeze thaw cycles in a single winter, that moisture repeatedly freezes and expands, then thaws and contracts. If drainage slope is not perfect, sand can also be washed out of joints or move slightly within the bedding layer over time. On a perfect base with precise drainage, these effects are minimized. On real GTA sites with clay, minor slope imperfections, or heavy vehicle traffic, they can add up over several winters.

High Performance Bedding, or HPB, approaches the same problem from a different angle. HPB is a washed, angular crushed stone, typically in the 1 to 8 millimetre size range, with very little or no dust. In practice, that means it behaves more like a small clear stone than a sand. Because the fines have been washed out, HPB drains water through itself instead of holding it. The angular particles lock together under the weight of the pavers and traffic. The result is a bedding layer that is both stable and much less prone to frost related movement.

In Ontario’s freeze thaw climate, that drainage behaviour is critical. When the bedding layer sheds water instead of storing it, there is less moisture to freeze, expand, and push the pavers around. That is why many Ontario hardscape contractors have moved to HPB as their default bedding material, particularly on driveways, patios on clay, and any project where long term performance is a priority. Suppliers and installers frequently describe HPB as self compacting or easy to compact, meaning that even with minimal mechanical compaction it achieves a high degree of density and interlock.

HPB is also versatile. In addition to serving as the bedding layer under pavers, it is widely used around drain tile, in French drains, behind retaining walls, and under sheds, hot tubs, and pads, precisely because it provides both support and drainage. That does not mean it should replace Granular A as the main structural base, but it does mean HPB can handle the top layer of the system with fewer frost and washout issues than sand.

There are trade offs. HPB usually costs more per tonne than concrete sand. It can be slightly different to handle if you are used to sand, although most experienced crews report that screeding HPB is as easy or easier once you are familiar with it. For purely pedestrian areas on well drained, well built bases, sand can still work acceptably. But for Ontario homeowners who want to prioritize longevity, particularly under driveways and on clay soil, HPB is often the more robust choice.

So how do you decide as a homeowner? A simple way to think about it is this. If you are building a small patio or walkway on good soil, concrete sand on a correctly built Granular A base can be adequate, especially if the contractor is following ICPI style guidelines. If you are building a driveway, a patio on clay, or any surface where you are determined to minimize frost related movement, HPB as the bedding layer is a clear upgrade. When you read quotes, look for the bedding layer to be named explicitly: “bedding: concrete sand” or “bedding: HPB” rather than generic “sand” or “screenings.”

The bedding layer is only an inch thick, but it is not just an afterthought. In a climate like the GTA’s, choosing a bedding material that drains and interlocks, instead of one that holds water and moves more under freeze thaw, can be the difference between a surface that stays tight and level and one that slowly becomes uneven.

If you want a deeper explanation of how the bedding layer fits into the full base system, and why HPB and concrete sand behave differently under Ontario conditions, the full article is here: Interlocking Base Materials in Ontario: Granular A, HPB and More.

[innointerlocking]

What Really Extends Interlocking Timelines in the GTA

Even with a clear schedule, some interlocking projects in the GTA finish faster than others. Two driveways of similar size can have different timelines, and homeowners are often left wondering why one took three days while another ran for a full week. The difference usually comes down to a few predictable factors: site access, drainage complexity, material availability, weather, and mid project scope changes.

Site access is one of the biggest hidden drivers of project duration. A front driveway with wide access and no obstructions lets equipment move in and out easily. A property with a narrow side yard, stairs, or a tight fence line between houses can slow things down considerably, especially for backyard patios. If a Bobcat or mini excavator cannot reach the back yard, more work has to be done by hand. That means more hours spent moving base material, sand, and pavers with wheelbarrows instead of machines, and that extra labour time stretches the schedule.

Drainage complexity is another factor. A simple, relatively flat site that drains in a single direction is straightforward to grade. A property that has multiple low spots, existing catch basins, or requires tying interlocking drainage into an existing or municipal system is more demanding. The base has to be shaped carefully so water moves away from the house and into the correct paths, not toward foundations or neighbouring properties. That may mean building in subtle slopes, transitions, and sometimes adding or adjusting drains. Getting this right is not optional, and doing it properly can add hours or days to the base preparation phase on more complex sites.

Material availability can also affect real timelines. A schedule assumes that the chosen pavers, borders, and trims will be delivered and on site when the crew is ready to start laying. If the selected colour is on back order, if a delivery is delayed, or if there is a last minute change in product choice, the crew can complete demolition and base work but may have to pause before installation. Established contractors often order material in advance and confirm availability before booking start dates precisely to avoid this kind of delay, but late design changes or supplier issues can still occasionally disrupt plans.

Weather is a reality in the GTA that no contractor can control. While some phases, such as demolition and initial excavation, can proceed in light rain, others cannot. Base compaction is less effective on fully saturated soil. Polymeric sand should not be installed in the rain or with imminent rain in the forecast because the product relies on controlled wetting and proper drying to set correctly. A week that looks clear when the job is booked can turn into several days of rain by the time work starts. When that happens, a project that might have taken four days in ideal conditions can stretch out to six or seven calendar days because certain tasks have to pause.

Scope changes mid project are another common reason timelines extend. It is natural to see the space open up after demolition and excavation and realise that a slightly larger patio, an extra border, or a changed pattern might look better. Any change that adds square footage, additional materials, or more intricate cutting means more labour and often more base preparation. That work has to be fitted into the schedule. Architects and construction managers describe how even small scope changes can ripple through a schedule and add days because every trade or step must adjust to the new plan. In interlocking, a similar effect happens at a smaller scale.

From a homeowner’s perspective, the best way to avoid unplanned extensions is to surface these factors early. When you get a quote, ask how site access affects the estimate. Ask whether your property has any drainage complexities that could add time. Confirm that the specific paver and colour you have chosen are in stock and scheduled for delivery before the start date. Think through any changes you might want to make and, where possible, lock those decisions before excavation begins.

It is also helpful to keep some flexibility in expectations. A contractor who pauses for a day because a storm is forecast on the same day as polymeric sand installation is often protecting the long term quality of your project, not dragging their feet. Similarly, a crew that takes extra time on base work in a tricky drainage situation is usually doing the careful grading that prevents water problems later.

Realistic baseline ranges, three to five days for a standard driveway, two to four days for a typical patio, and up to ten days for a full property, assume favourable conditions and straightforward sites. When you layer in access challenges, complex grades, weather, and late scope changes, longer durations are not a sign of incompetence. They are often the sign that the contractor is refusing to rush the parts of the job that matter most.

If you want to see how these factors fit into a typical GTA interlocking project and how long each phase usually takes, the full breakdown is here: What Does a Full Interlocking Project Include, and How Long Does It Take.

[innointerlocking]

How To Plan Around an Interlocking Project in the GTA

A new interlocking driveway or patio changes how your property looks and works for years. In the short term, it also changes how you live in and around your home while the project is underway. Knowing what to plan for, from parking and access to neighbours, children, and when you can safely use the surface, makes the process far less stressful.

The first thing to plan is parking. Your driveway will not be usable for the full duration of the project. For a standard two car driveway, that usually means 3 to 5 working days, and for combined driveway and patio projects it can be a full week or more. Arranging street parking or alternate spots before the crew arrives is much easier than scrambling for space once demolition has already started. If your household has several vehicles or specific scheduling needs, it is worth discussing these with your contractor at the time of booking so they can advise on likely dates and phases when access will be most restricted.

Property access is the next consideration. There will be phases of the job, particularly during excavation and base preparation, when the main path to your front door or back yard runs directly through the work zone. Equipment, pallets of stone, and base materials need space. If anyone in the household has mobility considerations, or if you rely on a particular entrance for day to day routines, raise that with your contractor early. Together you can plan temporary paths or safe access routes that keep you out of the active work area while still allowing you to enter and exit your home.

Neighbours are also affected whenever a construction project happens on a residential street. Demolition, excavation, and compaction create noise and vibration. Deliveries, bins, and equipment movement can temporarily affect parking and traffic flow in front of your property. A short, simple conversation with the immediate neighbours before the project starts goes a long way. Let them know the start date, the expected duration, and which days are likely to be the noisiest. Many municipalities, including cities around the GTA, publish “good neighbour” guidance for residential work that encourages this kind of communication so projects run more smoothly for everyone on the block.

Children and pets require special attention. A live construction site is not a safe place to wander. During excavation there are open trenches, equipment can be moving, and there may be exposed edges or unstable areas until each phase is complete. During paver installation, there are cut pieces, tools, and materials in use. The simplest rule is to treat the work area as off limits for unsupervised children and pets for the entire project duration. If you have dogs that usually use the front yard or driveway, you may need to plan temporary fencing, leashing, or alternate routes through the back yard while the crew is working.

Weather can also affect how the project feels from a homeowner’s perspective. Rain can delay certain phases. Base compaction is less effective on fully saturated ground, and polymeric sand should not be installed when rain is expected. If a run of bad weather hits during your scheduled week, phases like excavation may still proceed, but fine work such as sanding and finishing may pause until conditions improve. That can extend the duration by a day or two. A good contractor will explain any weather related delays clearly so you know what is happening and why.

Once the crew leaves, there are still a few timing rules to respect before you fully use the new surface. After the polymeric sand has been installed and activated, the joints need time to dry and harden. Many manufacturers recommend avoiding foot traffic for at least 24 hours so the sand can cure properly. For driveways, it is wise to wait 48 hours before parking passenger vehicles on the new interlock, and some guidance extends that to 72 hours for added safety. This aligns with typical polymeric sand recommendations that suggest 24 hours for walks and 48 hours before driving on a newly sanded surface.

Heavier vehicles are a different category. If you have delivery trucks, moving vans, or trades vehicles with higher axle weights, it is better to keep those off the surface for about a week after completion. Although an interlocking driveway can support vehicle loads once the base is properly built, giving the bedding layer and polymeric sand extra time to settle and harden reduces the risk of early movement or rutting. Sealing is another timing decision. New pavers release efflorescence in the first weeks, which appears as a light, chalky residue. Most sources recommend waiting 60 to 90 days before sealing new pavers so this process can complete and you do not trap efflorescence under the sealer.

Scope changes and decisions made mid project are another potential source of disruption. Extending a patio, adding a border, or changing the pattern once excavation is already underway is possible, but it affects both schedule and material usage. If you think you might want to add features like borders, steps, or small extensions, it is usually better to decide those before the project begins and have them reflected in the quote and timeline. Last minute changes are best reserved for genuinely small adjustments rather than structural changes to the design.

For homeowners, the overall approach that works best is to treat an interlocking project like any other significant home improvement. Mark the dates on your calendar, arrange parking and access in advance, talk to neighbours, plan for children and pets, and give the surface time to cure before loading it. When you do that, the week or two of disruption is easier to manage, and you get the long term benefit of a properly built surface that can handle GTA winters and daily use for many years.

If you want a complete breakdown of project durations, daily phases, delays, and usage timing for interlocking in the GTA, you can find it in the full article: What Does a Full Interlocking Project Include, and How Long Does It Take.

[innointerlocking]

How to Spot Under‑Excavation in Interlocking (Before You Sign a GTA Contract)

Most interlocking problems homeowners notice after a couple of winters do not start with the pavers. They start with how deep the contractor actually dug before putting any stone in. Under‑excavation is one of the easiest ways to shave time and cost on an interlocking job, and one of the fastest paths to a surface that fails years earlier than it should.

The challenge for homeowners is that you cannot see excavation depth when you look at a finished driveway or patio. Once the pavers are in, everything looks clean, level, and solid on day one. That is why it is so important to know what questions to ask before work starts, and what failure signs to watch for if you suspect a previous install was not done to proper depth.

The first distinction to understand is the difference between excavation depth and base thickness. Excavation depth is the total distance from the finished surface grade down to the bottom of the hole. Base thickness is just the depth of compacted granular material inside that hole. It does not include the one inch or so of bedding sand, and it does not include the paver thickness. When a contractor says “we put in a 10‑inch base,” it might sound solid, but it tells you nothing about the total excavation.

For example, on a driveway in Ontario you might have 10 inches of granular base, 1 inch of bedding sand, and a driveway‑rated paver about 3.125 inches thick. That adds up to around 14.125 inches total. The recommended excavation depth for a vehicular surface in our climate is 16 to 18 inches, especially on clay. If all you look at is the “10‑inch base,” you might miss that the total depth is below standard for GTA conditions.

This matters because the base needs to sit deep enough and thick enough to resist the freeze–thaw movement of the ground below and to carry the loads above. A shallow excavation places the base too close to the active frost zone. Every winter, as the soil freezes, expands, and then contracts, that zone pushes and pulls on the base. Over time, the base moves, and the pavers follow.

The failure timeline on under‑excavated installations is remarkably consistent. In year one, the surface often looks acceptable. You may see minor settling in high‑traffic areas where vehicles frequently turn or where foot traffic is concentrated. Small gaps can appear along edges where restraints were not anchored into full‑depth compacted material, but nothing looks catastrophic.

Between the first and second winter, things start to change. The shallow base moves with the freezing and thawing ground. Pavers near the perimeter or in low spots lift and drop slightly as frost heave pushes up and then releases them. By spring, you are more likely to see visible high and low spots across the surface, particularly along edges and where water naturally collects. Puddles form in places that were flat when the project was finished.

By year two or three, the pattern becomes harder to ignore. Surface unevenness is now obvious, and the driveway or patio feels different underfoot. Some individual pavers begin to rock when you step on them. Edge restraints may have partially or completely failed, allowing the paver field to migrate outward. Joints open up, polymeric sand washes out more easily, and water starts running in directions it was never meant to, sometimes toward the house instead of away from it.

Beyond year three, many under‑excavated installations are effectively at the end of their life. Patching with new sand or resetting a few stones is no longer enough. At that point, the only proper fix is to lift large sections or the entire surface, excavate deeper to the correct depth, rebuild the base in layers with proper compaction, and relay the pavers. In other words, you pay for most of the original project again.

The good news is that under‑excavation is not invisible before the project starts. You can reduce your risk significantly by asking a few direct questions and insisting on clear answers in writing. Before you sign anything, ask:

What is the total excavation depth for this surface type? For patios and walkways in Ontario, you should hear 12 to 14 inches. For driveways, 16 to 18 inches. If you hear 4 to 6 inches for a driveway, that is a clear red flag.

Is that depth measured from existing grade or finished grade? You want clarity on whether the contractor is talking about the depth of the hole relative to the final surface height, not just how much they are cutting down from current soil level.

Does that depth include base, bedding sand, and paver thickness? This question forces the contractor to separate base thickness from total excavation. A confident, experienced contractor can explain how much of that depth is granular base, how much is bedding, and what paver thickness they are using.

Is geotextile fabric included at the base of the excavation? On clay and silt‑heavy sites, geotextile is a critical part of long‑term performance. It prevents native soil from migrating into the granular base over time under load and water. On sandier sites, it is still considered best practice.

You can also ask how they plan to compact the base. A professional answer will mention compacting in multiple lifts, usually around 4 inches at a time, rather than dumping the full depth in one shot and running a plate compactor over the top. They may also mention extending excavation about 12 inches wider than the finished paver area on all sides so that edge restraints can be anchored into full‑depth compacted material, not shallow perimeter fill.

Any contractor who brushes off questions about depth, base construction, or geotextile with “do not worry about it, we always do it right” is giving you a clear signal. The base and excavation are the foundation of the project. If they are unwilling or unable to discuss them in detail, it is worth reconsidering whether they are a good fit for your property.

For homeowners in the GTA, the bottom line is straightforward: excavation depth is not just a technical detail. It is the difference between an interlocking surface that lasts a couple of decades and one that needs major repair after a few winters. Knowing how to ask about depth, how to distinguish base thickness from total excavation, and how to recognize under‑excavation patterns can save you from paying for the same project twice.

If you would like a deeper explanation of recommended excavation depths for patios and driveways in Ontario, how soil type affects those numbers, and what a proper layer breakdown looks like, you can find it all here: How Deep Should Interlocking Be Excavated in Ontario.

[innointerlocking]

The Real Cost of DIY Interlocking in the GTA (Beyond the Sticker Price)

On paper, DIY interlocking in the GTA looks simple enough. You calculate the square footage, price out pavers and gravel, rent a compactor, and assume the savings over a contractor will be obvious. Once you start listing every line item, adding in equipment, disposal, and your own time, the picture changes. The apparent savings shrink, and the risk of a mistake becomes more expensive than most people realise.

A typical homeowner thinks first of visible materials: pavers, base stone, sand, and polymeric sand. Those are important, but they are not the full story. To get a driveway or larger patio properly built, you are also committing to a set of equipment most people do not own. A plate compactor is usually at the top of the rental list, but it rarely stops there. For anything beyond a small walkway, excavation becomes a serious task. Digging 6–12 inches over a full driveway by hand is theoretically possible, but in practice most people quickly turn to a mini excavator or a Bobcat to get it done in a reasonable time.

Once the soil is out, you still need to move and dispose of it. A two‑car driveway can easily generate a surprising amount of spoil. That material has to go somewhere, and in the GTA, “somewhere” usually means a dumpster with a per‑load cost. Many projects need more than one load once broken concrete, existing stone, and unsuitable soil are added in. Those disposal costs creep up quickly.

Next comes the precision work. Setting a proper drainage slope is not something you want to eyeball, especially anywhere near a foundation or garage door. A laser level or similar leveling tool is almost essential if you want to maintain a consistent 2 percent grade across the entire surface. That is another rental line on the list. Cutting pavers neatly along edges, steps, pillars, or around drains is difficult to do cleanly with improvised tools. A wet saw or angle grinder suitable for pavers is common on professional jobs and becomes necessary on DIY installations that include curves, tight angles, or any detail work. Screed rails and tools may not be expensive individually, but they are another part of the overall setup needed to get the bedding sand to an even one‑inch depth.

When you add up two or three days of rental rates for a compactor, excavation equipment, a laser level, and a saw, it is easy to land in the hundreds or over a thousand dollars just for equipment. That is before fuel, delivery charges, or damage deposits. Material costs for a 400–600 square foot driveway or patio can run into the thousands as well, especially if you choose mid‑range or premium pavers and account for waste.

Labour is the hidden factor most people underestimate. Professional crews who do this every week, with the right machinery and multiple workers, can complete a standard driveway in two to three days. A first‑time homeowner, even with help from a friend or two, is often looking at a solid week or more of hard, physical work. Each paver weighs several kilograms. Each shovel of gravel or sand adds up. The work is repetitive, heavy, and often done in summer heat.

The longer the project stretches, the more likely shortcuts become, usually on the steps that feel the least visible: base compaction and drainage grading. The problem is that these are exactly the steps that decide whether the job lasts 2 years or 20. A rushed base is not a minor flaw; it is a delayed failure.

When you include all of this—equipment rental, disposal, materials, your time, and the risk of getting the base wrong—the savings versus a professional installation are often much smaller than the initial mental math suggests. If the base fails after two winters and you have to re‑excavate, re‑grade, re‑compact, and relay, you effectively pay for most of the job twice. That is when a “cheap” driveway becomes more expensive than having it done properly the first time.

In our main article, we break down realistic DIY cost ranges in Ontario, from equipment and materials to what it actually takes to fix a failed installation. If you are considering DIY, it is worth seeing those numbers before you decide. You can read the full breakdown here: DIY Interlocking in Ontario: Costs, Mistakes and Winter Failures.

[innointerlocking]

Interlocking vs Concrete vs Asphalt: Which Makes Sense Over 20 Years in the GTA?

When you are standing in your driveway trying to decide between interlocking, concrete, or asphalt, it is tempting to look only at the upfront quote. Asphalt almost always comes in cheapest. Concrete tends to sit in the middle. Interlocking is often at the top. But in the GTA, where freeze thaw cycles and heavy use punish every surface, the 20 year picture can look very different from the first invoice.

If you think in terms of lifespan, repair options, and maintenance over a couple of decades, the choice becomes clearer.

How each surface behaves in Ontario’s climate

All three options are exposed to the same winter reality. Water gets into cracks and pores, freezes and expands, then thaws. Cars park, turn, and sometimes leak oil. Snow plows scrape and push. The difference is how the surface is built and how it reacts.

Interlocking is a flexible, segmental system. Individual pavers can shift slightly as the ground moves, and the joints help absorb stress. When the base and drainage are done properly, this system handles 30 to 65 freeze thaw cycles a year without the kind of cracking you see in concrete.

Poured concrete is one rigid slab. It resists movement until the stress exceeds what it can handle, then it cracks. Once a slab cracks in a freeze thaw climate, it rarely stops at one hairline. Cracks widen, new ones appear, and repairs seldom blend invisibly.

Asphalt is also a continuous surface, but it is softer. It can flex a bit in response to ground movement and temperature. Over time, it can crack, rut, and deform under heat and load. Sun, salt, and gasoline all take a toll.

In other words, the climate does not give you a free pass with any material. It just punishes them in different ways.

Lifespan ranges and what they really mean

In typical GTA conditions, rough lifespan ranges look like this:

Interlocking: about 25 to 30 years, sometimes longer with good base and maintenance

Concrete: roughly 15 to 25 years, depending on quality and exposure

Asphalt: about 15 to 20 years, with resurfacing or major repairs partway through

These are not guarantees. They are realistic ranges for properly installed surfaces. A cheap, underbuilt interlocking job can fail in a few winters, just as a high quality concrete driveway can outlast a bargain asphalt one. Installation quality and base preparation matter as much as material choice.

Maintenance and repair over a 20 year window

To see which surface makes sense, it helps to imagine 20 years of ownership.

Asphalt usually needs resealing every three to five years if you want it to last. That means multiple visits, costs, and some disruption. Cracks need to be filled, and eventually sections will need patching or full resurfacing.

Concrete may be sealed periodically, but the bigger issue is cracking. When cracks appear, you can patch them, but the repairs are visible and often temporary. If a large area settles or fails, replacing the whole slab or a section can be expensive and visually obvious.

Interlocking typically needs joint sand replenishment from time to time, possible sealing depending on your preference, and occasional re leveling of small areas if drainage or base issues appear. The key advantage is repairability. If a section sinks, that section can be lifted, the base corrected, and the same pavers reset.

Over two decades, the total cost of ownership is a mix of that initial quote plus all the maintenance and repair in between.

Which surface makes sense for typical GTA homeowners

If budget is extremely tight and you need a functional surface as cheaply as possible, asphalt may still be the right call. It gets you drivable, plowable space up front for less money, with the understanding that you will pay in more frequent maintenance and eventual replacement.

Concrete can be the middle ground, especially where a smooth, rigid surface is desired. In the GTA climate, you should go in expecting some cracking over time and factor that into your expectations. It can perform well for many years but is less forgiving when something goes wrong.

Interlocking usually makes the most sense if:

You plan to stay in the home for at least five years

You care about curb appeal and resale presentation

You want a surface that can be repaired in sections rather than replaced in large slabs

You are willing to invest more up front for lower maintenance over the long term

Instead of asking which surface is cheapest today, it helps to ask which surface is still doing its job, with manageable upkeep, after 20 years of Ontario winters.

If you want a deeper, numbers backed comparison of upfront costs, typical lifespan, maintenance, and resale impact for interlocking, concrete, and asphalt in the GTA, read Is Interlocking Worth It in Ontario? ROI, Lifespan and Honest Costs for GTA Homeowners.

[innointerlocking]

Is This Interlocking Problem a Warranty Issue or Normal Wear?

When something changes on your interlocking driveway or patio in Ontario, the first question most homeowners ask is simple: is this a warranty issue, or is it just normal wear that I have to live with or maintain myself? The answer is not always obvious when you are standing in the driveway looking at a dip, a white haze, or a stain.

Understanding the difference between normal behaviour and true workmanship problems helps you decide when to call your contractor, when to handle maintenance yourself, and how to keep your interlocking warranty in Ontario intact.

What normal behaviour looks like in the first year

Every new interlocking surface goes through a short adjustment period, especially in Ontario’s climate. During the first season, it is common to see small, cosmetic changes that are usually not covered by warranty.

Typical normal changes include:

Very minor settling that does not affect drainage or create trip edges

Slight shifts in joint sand levels as the surface gets used and rained on

A thin white haze known as efflorescence on some pavers

Small colour softening as the surface weathers in the sun and rain

Efflorescence in particular worries many homeowners. It appears as a white chalky film on the surface and often shows up in the first months after installation. In most cases, it is a natural reaction as moisture moves through concrete. Manufacturers treat it as a cosmetic issue, not a defect, and it is almost always excluded from material warranties.

Minor, even settling that does not trap water or create dips is also usually considered normal as the base fully compacts under real use. These changes are usually monitored, not treated as warranty problems.

When settling becomes a workmanship warranty issue

The line between normal and problematic settling is usually about function. A workmanship warranty is meant to cover issues that point to base preparation or drainage problems, not tiny cosmetic shifts.

Signs that settling may be a warranty issue include:

Dips that clearly hold water after rain or snow melt

Sections that rock noticeably underfoot or under vehicle load

Areas where pavers have dropped enough to create a trip edge

A pattern of movement along a section that suggests base failure, not one or two isolated stones

If you see this kind of behaviour within your workmanship warranty period, it is reasonable to treat it as a potential warranty matter. Your job as the homeowner is to document it clearly and report it properly, which your existing micro blogs already guide people through.

A typical legitimate warranty fix on an interlocking surface looks like this: the contractor inspects the problem, lifts the affected area, corrects the base or drainage underneath, and resets the same pavers. It is targeted and local, not a complete rebuild.

Cosmetic issues that usually are not covered

At the same time, there are visible changes that almost never fall under warranty in Ontario, even though they can be annoying.

These usually include:

Oil stains from vehicles, barbecues, or equipment

Rust stains from metal furniture or tools left on the surface

Organic staining from leaves, mulch, or standing debris

Colour differences between paver batches or between your driveway and brochure photos

General surface grime from traffic and weather

These are treated as maintenance issues. They are part of owning an outdoor surface, much like cleaning siding or re‑staining a deck every so often. Your warranty, both material and workmanship, is not a cleaning contract.

How to decide what to do when you spot a problem

When something looks off, you can use a simple decision process:

Ask, does this affect safety or drainage? If there is obvious pooling, rocking, or trip hazards, treat it as a possible workmanship issue, especially within the warranty period.

Ask, does this look like a stain or surface film? If it is mostly visual and the structure feels solid, it is more likely a maintenance item, not a warranty defect.

Check timing. If the issue shows up within the first two years and matches common base or drainage problems, it is more likely to fall under a workmanship warranty than if it appears ten years later.

Document and report correctly. For anything that might be warranty related, follow the process you already outline: photos, dates, written description, and a written request to the contractor.

When in doubt, it is better to document and ask than to ignore a potential problem, especially while you are still within your workmanship warranty window. A well structured email with photos gives your contractor a fair chance to respond and protects your position if there is a disagreement later.

If you want a full framework that explains what typical warranties actually cover, what they exclude, and how to navigate that grey area between normal wear and genuine defects, read Interlocking Warranty Ontario: What It Covers, What Voids It, and How to Protect It.

[innointerlocking]

What Missing Demolition and Disposal Really Means in GTA Interlocking Quotes

If you have ever been pleasantly surprised by how low an interlocking quote looked, only to feel a little suspicious, there is a good chance the missing piece was demolition and disposal. It is one of the easiest items to quietly leave out of a quote while still making the overall number look attractive.

On paper, you think you are comparing full project prices. In reality, you might be holding one complete quote in one hand and a partial scope in the other.

Demolition is half the job for replacements

Whenever you are replacing an existing driveway, walkway, or patio in the GTA, the project has two major phases:

Removing the old surface, the demolition phase

Building the new interlocking system, the installation phase

If you have concrete, asphalt, or old interlock in place, that material has to be broken up, loaded, hauled away, and disposed of properly. That means labour, machinery, a bin on site, and disposal fees at a licensed facility.

None of that comes for free. In many real projects, concrete removal and disposal alone can add several dollars per square foot to the job once you factor in all the steps.

When that entire phase is missing from the quote, it has not magically become free. It has just moved off the page, waiting to reappear later as an extra.

How demolition usually disappears from cheap quotes

Low quotes rarely announce what is missing. The language often looks like this:

“Supply and install interlocking driveway” with a single lump sum

“Includes base preparation and paver installation”

No mention of breaking existing concrete or asphalt

No line item for bin rental or disposal

At first, it feels like you are getting a better deal than the other quotes that clearly list demolition and bin fees. In reality, you are simply looking at a number that does not yet include all the work.

The common pattern is predictable. The crew arrives, explains that removal of the existing surface was not included in the price, and presents a separate cost on the spot. At that point the driveway may already be partially opened, your schedule is tied up, and your options are limited.

What a complete quote should show

A transparent interlocking quote for a replacement project should spell out the removal phase clearly, usually as separate line items:

Demolition of existing surface, for example “Remove and dispose of existing concrete driveway”

Bin rental and disposal fees

Any conditions that affect cost, such as extra thick concrete or difficult access

Confirmation that debris will be removed from site and disposed of properly

This makes it possible to compare quotes fairly. If one contractor uses slightly higher numbers for demolition because they have to remove thicker concrete or work in a tight laneway, at least you can see and understand that difference.

How to test any quote for hidden demolition costs

Whenever you receive a quote that does not clearly show demolition and disposal, assume they are not included until proven otherwise. Then ask a direct question in writing:

“Is removal of the existing surface and bin disposal included in this price? If not, what does it cost to add both, and can you show them as separate line items in the quote?”

This question does three important things:

It forces clarity on what is actually included

It gives you a real total project price for comparison

It shows you how the contractor responds when asked for details

A professional contractor will usually respond with a specific number, explain the assumptions, and update the quote so everything is in one place. Someone who says “we will see when we start,” avoids answering, or insists on keeping it verbal is telling you that surprise add ons may be part of their normal process.

Why cheap now and extra later is more expensive

At first glance, a quote that is a few thousand dollars lower can be tempting. But if that lower number comes from leaving out demolition, ignoring bin fees, or understating how much work is involved in removal, you are not saving money. You are just agreeing to pay it later, under worse conditions and with less leverage.

Once you include demolition and disposal at a realistic price, many cheap quotes climb up into the same range as more transparent ones. The difference is that the honest quote showed you the full picture up front.

If you are looking at quotes today, try this quick exercise. Circle every line related to demolition, bins, and disposal. If you do not see any, email the contractor and ask for specifics. Add those numbers into your comparison before you decide.

A complete quote should feel slightly boring in the best way. Everything obvious is written down, there are no big question marks, and the total price reflects both removal and installation. That is the kind of document that protects you when work starts.

For a more detailed checklist of what else often goes missing from interlocking quotes in the GTA, including drainage solutions, edge restraints, and warranty terms, read What to Look for in an Interlocking Quote in the GTA (And Red Flags to Avoid).

[innointerlocking]

How To Protect Your Interlocking Warranty From Day One

A new interlocking driveway or patio in Ontario looks great on day one, but the real protection for your investment comes from your warranty and how you handle it. Many homeowners lose coverage not because the warranty was weak, but because they did not document issues or follow the right process. If you want your interlocking warranty in Ontario to actually work for you, you need a simple plan starting from the moment the project is finished.

The steps are not complicated, but they do need to be intentional. A little structure up front can turn a potential dispute into a straightforward service visit.

Start Protecting Your Warranty On The Day Of Completion

The best time to protect a future warranty claim is right when the interlocking project is completed. Before you pack away the last coffee cup from the crew, take out your phone and document the finished work.

Capture:

Wide photos of the full driveway, patio, or walkway

Close ups of joints, borders, steps, and any drains or transitions

Shots of any slopes that were created for drainage

These images become your baseline. If a problem appears later, such as settling or pooling, you have visual proof of what the installation looked like when it was new. That can help show that a defect developed over time, not from something you did afterward.

Keep All Contracts, Quotes, And Messages Together

Next, protect your paperwork. Your interlocking warranty Ontario terms are usually defined in your contract and related documents. Create a dedicated folder, digital or physical, and store:

The signed contract and scope of work

The original quote or proposal

Payment receipts

Email or text exchanges that mention warranty duration, exclusions, or site conditions

This file becomes your reference when you need to check what is covered, how long the workmanship warranty lasts, and what exclusions apply. Many contractors hide important warranty language inside terms and conditions or fine print. Keeping everything in one place makes it easier to respond quickly if something goes wrong.

What To Do When You Notice A Problem

At some point, you may see something change in your interlocking. Maybe a corner dips slightly, water pools where it should not, or a section feels a little unstable. How you respond at that moment can make a big difference.

Step 1: Document before you touch anything

The moment you notice a potential issue, photograph it before attempting any fix. Take several angles and distances. If the problem involves depth, such as a depression or raised edge, place a coin, tape measure, or small object in the photo to show scale.

Also write down:

The date you first saw the issue

A short, factual description of what you notice

Any relevant recent events such as heavy rain, snow melt, or construction nearby

Step 2: Avoid DIY repairs until the contractor has seen it

Even small adjustments such as adding joint sand, lifting one paver, or tapping down a loose stone can give your contractor a reason to claim the system was altered. From a warranty perspective, it is safer to leave the problem as is until it has been assessed professionally.

Why Written Warranty Requests Are Essential

Calling your contractor feels quick, but a phone call does not create a reliable record. If you want your interlocking warranty Ontario coverage to hold, submit your request in writing.

A strong written request includes:

Your name, address, and contact details

The installation date or approximate timeframe

A clear, concise description of what you are seeing without trying to diagnose the cause

The date you first noticed the problem

A few of your best photos attached

Send this to the contractor’s official business email or contact form and keep a copy for yourself. Written communication creates a timestamp that shows the issue was reported within the warranty period. If the workmanship warranty is two years and you report a problem at the eighteen month mark, that record becomes valuable if there is any dispute about timing.

If you do not hear back within about five to ten business days for a non emergency issue, send a polite follow up email that references your original message.

How To Handle Disputes Without Losing Your Paper Trail

Sometimes a contractor may reply but suggest that the issue is not covered. At this stage, it is important to stay calm and keep everything in writing.

You can respond by:

Asking which specific clause or exclusion they believe applies

Requesting a brief written explanation of why the claim is being denied

Clarifying any points where you feel the warranty terms and the situation do not match

If you think the denial is not fair, you can take additional steps. Before escalating to regulators or legal options, consider getting a second opinion from another qualified hardscape contractor. Ask them for a short written assessment that states whether the problem looks like an installation defect or a maintenance issue.

If needed, Ontario homeowners can explore support from Consumer Protection Ontario or Small Claims Court for disputes where workmanship appears clearly substandard. Your documented photos, contract file, and written message history become critical evidence in that process.

Your Role After The Warranty Period Ends

Once your workmanship warranty expires, responsibility for day to day performance shifts fully to you as the homeowner. That does not mean your interlocking is suddenly fragile. A properly built system in the GTA should stay solid for many years if you take care of it.

Your ongoing maintenance tasks include:

Replenishing joint sand if it washes out over time

Cleaning the surface to prevent buildup of grime and slippery algae

Watching how water drains after heavy rain or snow melt

Avoiding harsh chemicals or very aggressive pressure washing techniques

If major settling or drainage problems appear after the warranty period, it can still be worthwhile to have a professional evaluate whether the original base was done correctly.

For a detailed, homeowner friendly explanation of what an interlocking warranty in Ontario covers, what voids it, and how to document and submit claims properly, explore our full guide to interlocking warranties in Ontario.

[innointerlocking]

9 Things Every GTA Interlocking Quote Must Show in Writing

If you are looking at two or three interlocking quotes in the GTA and they all say “supply and install interlocking driveway,” you are not alone. You are being asked to make a five figure decision based on a single vague line. That vagueness is not an accident. It protects the contractor, not you.

A proper written quote is your main protection before any work starts. If the document does not spell out what you are actually getting, the project will fill in those blanks for you, usually in ways you do not like. Use this checklist to review any interlocking quote before you even look at the total price.

1. Clear scope of work

The scope should be more than “driveway installation.” It needs to describe exactly what surfaces are included, what is being removed, and where the project starts and ends. If steps, curbs, or walkways are part of the job, they should be listed in writing. If it is not described, it is not in the scope.

Ask yourself: If someone else read this quote with no context, would they understand what is actually being built on your property? If the answer is no, the scope is too vague.

2. Excavation depth

Excavation depth is the single most important technical line item in an interlocking quote for Ontario conditions. A driveway usually needs 8 to 12 inches of combined excavation. A patio typically needs 6 to 10 inches depending on drainage and soil.

If your quote says “base preparation included” but does not state a depth, there is no accountability for what goes into the ground. The crew can remove a couple of inches and call it a day. You will not know until the driveway starts to settle or heave a few winters later.

3. Base material and thickness

Most standard residential driveways in the GTA are built on compacted Granular A aggregate. Your quote should specify both the material type and the compacted thickness.

Anything less than about 6 inches of compacted Granular A under a driveway is undersized for local freeze thaw cycles. If you only see phrases like “proper base” or “industry standard base,” ask for the actual numbers in inches and have them added to the quote.

4. Drainage plan

“Proper drainage included” is a feel good phrase, not a plan. The quote should describe how water will leave the surface on your specific property.

Depending on your lot, that might mean:

A slope away from the house

A channel drain at the garage

A catch basin tied into a drain

Adjusted grading to move water toward the street

If your property has existing pooling, sits low relative to the road, or has clay heavy soil, drainage is not optional. It is part of the engineering of the job and should be spelled out in writing.

5. Materials by brand and product name

“Grey paver, 60mm” is not a specification. Permacon, Unilock, Oaks, Cambridge and other manufacturers all have different product lines, thicknesses, and load ratings.

For driveways, 80mm pavers are standard. Patios and walkways often use 60mm. A generic description in your quote allows the contractor to swap in a cheaper or thinner product without technically breaking the contract. If the brand and specific product line are not named, they can be swapped.

6. Edge restraint specification

Edge restraints keep your pavers from spreading outward and your joints from opening up over time. On driveways especially, vehicle load and snow removal put a lot of stress on the perimeter.

The quote should state the edge restraint type, such as:

Plastic spike in edging

Aluminium edging

Concrete border course

“Edge restraint included” tells you nothing about what is actually being used. Cheap plastic with too few spikes does not perform like a properly installed aluminium system or concrete curb.

7. Polymeric sand

Some contractors quietly downgrade polymeric jointing sand to regular sand to cut costs. Regular sand washes out, encourages weed growth, and allows more movement in the joints. Polymeric sand hardens in place and resists both washing and weeds when installed correctly.

Your quote should specifically mention polymeric sand by name or product type. If it only says “sanding included,” there is room for downgrading without telling you.

8. Demolition and bin disposal

If an existing surface needs to be removed, demolition and bin disposal should appear as separate line items. This is one of the most common omissions in cheaper quotes.

Concrete removal in the GTA can easily add several dollars per square foot to the job. If your quote does not mention demolition or bin fees at all, clarify in writing whether they are included. If they are not, get a price to add them so you can compare quotes fairly.

9. Project timeline and warranty terms

Your quote should include:

A realistic start date or a booking window

An estimated project duration

Clear written warranty terms

Verbal timelines are not enforceable. “We will start in May” needs to appear in the document. The same applies to warranties. “Warranty provided” is not enough. You want to see what is covered, how long it is covered for, and how to make a claim.

How to use this checklist

Take any quote you receive and run through these nine items line by line. Wherever you see vague phrases instead of specific numbers, products, or methods, ask the contractor to clarify in writing.

A professional contractor will not hesitate to add these details because they are part of what they are selling. Resistance, deflection, or “do not worry about it” responses are signals about what comes next if you hire them.

For a deeper dive into each of these items, including red flags and comparison tips, read our full guide: What to Look for in an Interlocking Quote in the GTA (And Red Flags to Avoid).

[innointerlocking]

The 6 Things That Actually Drive Interlocking Cost in the GTA

Most homeowners want a price per square foot. That number exists, but it only tells part of the story. Two projects with identical square footage can cost dramatically different amounts, and understanding why is the fastest way to evaluate whether a quote reflects the actual work involved.

These are the six things that actually move the number.

1. Excavation Depth

Different surfaces require different excavation depths. A driveway bearing vehicle loads needs more depth than a patio. A patio needs more than a walkway. The depth is determined by load requirements and soil type, not by a standard number applied to every job.

In the GTA, clay-heavy soil in areas like Brampton and Mississauga retains water longer and requires deeper excavation than sandier lots in Whitby or Ajax. A shallower excavation costs less upfront. It also fails faster under Ontario's freeze-thaw cycles, where water trapped below the surface expands and contracts dozens of times each winter.

2. Base Thickness and Compaction

More base means more aggregate material, more compaction passes, and more labour time. This is where the real difference between a $15 per square foot quote and a $28 per square foot quote typically lives.

The surface pavers look the same on day one. The base difference shows up in year three, when sections start settling unevenly, and drainage problems appear. Inadequate base preparation accounts for the majority of hardscape structural failures in cold-climate installations. Staged compaction, where each layer is compacted before the next goes down, is what creates a stable foundation. A single pass over a full-depth dump is not the same thing.

3. Drainage Requirements

A flat lot with good natural drainage costs less to work with than a sloped yard, a clay-heavy property, or a lot where water currently pools near the foundation. Proper drainage solutions, re-grading, catch basins, and French drains add cost but prevent a much more expensive problem down the road.

Toronto bylaws require driveways to slope away from the home at a minimum 1 to 2 percent grade. That is not optional engineering. It is a requirement that affects how the base is designed and installed.

4. Material Choice

Standard concrete pavers run approximately $5 to $8 per square foot in materials only. Large-format, textured, or permeable pavers run $12 to $20 per square foot in materials only. Paver thickness also matters. Driveway stone needs to be at least 80mm versus 60mm for patios, which accounts for a real cost difference per square foot, even before labour is factored in.

For premium installations, natural stone sits at the top of the material cost range. Natural stone interlocking using flagstone, granite, or limestone brings genuine variation in colour and texture that manufactured pavers cannot replicate, but it also requires more time in levelling and fitting due to the thickness variation across individual pieces. That additional labour is part of what the material cost reflects.

5. Pattern and Design Complexity

A running bond is the fastest pattern to install. A 45-degree herringbone runs 15 to 20 percent slower because every stone requires precise angular alignment and more cutting. Multi-paver inlaid designs with feature bands and border details are slower still. Curved edges require custom cuts at every transition point.

Design complexity does not just add material cost. It adds skilled labour time, which is where the real number moves. A homeowner choosing a fan pattern with a soldier course border on a large driveway is choosing a significantly different installation scope than a straight running bond on the same footprint.

6. Site Access

If a skid steer can reach the work area, material moves efficiently. If it cannot, labourers carry it by hand. The difference in labour hours between machine access and hand-carry on a large project can be significant.

Narrow side yards, mature trees with protected root zones, fences that cannot be removed, and tight urban lots all restrict equipment access. Older neighbourhoods in Toronto, Richmond Hill, and Markham are where this factor shows up most often. It is a real cost driver that has nothing to do with the surface itself and everything to do with the conditions on your specific property.

These six variables are why a per-square-foot range is only a starting point. Your actual number depends on how many of these factors are working in your favour and how many are working against you. The only way to know is an on-site assessment.

For the full pricing breakdown by surface type, demolition costs, and city-by-city notes across the GTA, read the GTA Interlocking Cost Guide.

If you want an honest number for your specific property, get in touch, and we will come take a look.

[innointerlocking]

Why Ontario's Freeze-Thaw Cycles Destroy Poorly Built Driveways

If you have lived in Ontario for more than a few winters, you know the cycle. It snows. It warms up. It freezes again. By March, the roads are a patchwork of repairs, and the sidewalks have heaved in places where they were fine the previous fall.

The same thing happens to poorly built driveways and patios. The difference is that on a public road, the municipality fixes it. On your property, you pay for it.

What a Freeze-Thaw Cycle Actually Does

Water expands when it freezes by about nine percent in volume. That seems small until you consider what happens when water is sitting inside a paved surface or in the soil underneath it, and that expansion is happening against the weight of concrete pavers, a car, or a compacted base layer.

The GTA does not just get a few of these cycles per winter. It gets 40 to 60 in some years, any week in November, March, or April where temperatures swing above and below zero within the same few days. Each cycle, water moves in, freezes, expands, thaws, and contracts. Over time, that movement works on any weakness in the system.

Why Walkways Fail Before Driveways Do

Walkways are often the first surface on a property to show freeze-thaw damage. They sit at grade, collect runoff from adjacent lawns and gardens, and rarely get the same base depth as a driveway. When the base underneath is shallow or poorly drained, the first few winters do the damage quietly. By year three or four, sections have shifted, edges have separated, and water is pooling near the foundation.

A properly built walkway interlocking project addresses this from the ground up. Correct excavation depth, staged base compaction, and a graded surface that moves water away from the structure rather than toward it. The surface is what you see. The drainage is what makes it last.

Why Poured Concrete Loses This Fight

Poured concrete is rigid. It is one continuous slab with no capacity to absorb movement. When the ground underneath it heaves, the slab either heaves with it or cracks. Usually both.

Once a concrete slab cracks, water gets in faster. The next cycle makes the crack worse. Within a few winters, what started as a hairline becomes a structural split. Repair means cutting out a section and pouring new concrete, which never quite matches the original in colour or texture.

This is not a failure of concrete as a material. It is a predictable outcome of using a rigid, bonded system in a climate with significant ground movement.

Why Interlocking Handles It Differently

Interlocking works because nothing is bonded together rigidly. Each paver is an individual unit sitting on a sand bed over a compacted aggregate base. When the ground moves, the pavers can move slightly and independently without cracking.

If a section does settle or shift, individual pavers can be lifted, the base underneath can be re-levelled, and the same stones go right back down. No patching. No colour mismatch. No repair that ages differently from the rest of the surface.

But Only If the Base Drains Properly

Interlocking handles freeze-thaw cycles well only when the base underneath drains properly. Water that cannot escape the base freezes in place. When it freezes, it expands. When it expands under a paved surface, that surface heaves unevenly, progressively, and in ways that get worse each winter.

GTA soil adds another layer of complexity. Clay-heavy lots in Brampton and Mississauga retain water longer than sandy soil in Whitby or Ajax. A contractor who applies the same base depth to every job regardless of soil type is not accounting for the variables that actually determine how a surface performs through Ontario winters.

What This Means When You Are Getting Quotes

Two quotes for the same project can differ by thousands of dollars. The surface materials are often the same. The labour rate is similar. The difference is almost always in the base, how deep it goes, how many compaction passes are done, and whether drainage is engineered or assumed.

You will not see a shallow base written in a low quote. You will see it in year two, when sections start moving.

For the full picture on installation quality, surface types, and what questions to ask a contractor, the Complete Guide to Interlocking in the GTA covers all of it in one place.

Ready to talk about your project? Reach out, and we will come assess the property. No obligation, just a clear look at what the work actually involves.