Kente diapers, Made In Ghana
I NEED
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Kente diapers, Made In Ghana
I NEED
damn. I need to catch up when I'm back from Ghana...
For our last NYU sponsored trip we traveled to Wli Falls in the Volta Region for a day of swimming/relaxing and a picnic. Wli Falls is the largest waterfall in West Africa and the view is absolutely breathtaking. The waterfall is accompanied by thousands of bats along the rock (you can see them if you look closely enough). The water was cool, and we all made sure to touch the wall behind the waterfall.
Although Accra is a wonderful place to live, leaving the city is such a relief. Ghana is so beautiful, and each place we find is like a little gem. Pictures will never to the real place justice, just like Wli Falls.
Korle Bu Teaching Hospital looks like it could be the set of a horror film these days. During my study abroad experience, I have had the fantastic opportunity to intern at the Surgical Medical Emergency Unit at Accra’s leading teaching hospital working on quality improvement and infection control initiatives. However in the past month or so, economic hardships have been beginning to take a toll on Ghana’s workforce. In the midst of a teacher strike and court hearings regarding the validity of the recent presidential elections, a pharmacist strike and doctor strike began to take place throughout Ghana. Within one day, this often bustling, busy emergency department emptied out and within two days, became a ghost town. It seems easy to judge the doctors, letting innocent people die because they are not getting the salaries promised by the government. However after living in this country for 4 months, it is much easier to understand and harder to judge their decisions, because nothing would ever get done if these people didn’t go to great lengths. Through this continual tragedy of the strike (I do think they should come back to work), I realized just how hard Ghanaians have to work to get what they want/deserve. Their perseverance is truly incredible and worthy of recognition, and their resilience, from doctors to the women on the street selling “pure water”, is what makes this country so special.
Despite my accolades, I sincerely hope that the doctors and pharmacists come back to work very soon. There is no great pressure on military hospitals to pick up the pace to accommodate and pick up the patients coming from the closed hospitals, including Korle Bu.
In Tamale last weekend, I visited a community of widows in Bolgatanga. Many of these women are widows ostracized from their communities, often forced to married their deceased husband’s brother in fear of violence. Widows are often blamed for the deaths through means of witchcraft or bad spirits, and many face severe punishments for their husband’s deaths. The NGO, Single Mother’s Association helps to create safe communities for the women and their children. They also supply materials and teach the women to weave baskets to make a living. Being in their presence was truly humbling and a beautiful experience. After learning a few weaving techniques, the women brought out the most beautiful baskets I have ever seen (and similar ones that can be found at stores like Pier 1 are soooo expensive!). I picked on out and paid just 20 cedis (equivalent of 10 dollars, 10 DOLLARS, y’all!). I got a picture with the woman who made the basket and she was very grateful. In the north, 20 cedis is a lot of money and can go far for this woman and her children— so it was really cool to buy a product right from the maker without any middle-man (or woman) to take away from the profit. NYU Accra also made a donation of clothing and such to the village, one of the most touching experiences of my life. The mothers instantly started dancing and cheering, expressing a joy that honestly, I have never experienced before in my life. This brought tears to many of our eyes and I am sure it is an experience that I will never forget!
Feeling like Kat Stratford today...
I hate the way you talk to me,
and the way you cut your hair. I hate the way you drive my car, I hate it when you stare. I hate your big dumb combat boots and the way you read my mind. I hate you so much it makes me sick, it even makes me rhyme. I hate the way you’re always right, I hate it when you lie. I hate it when you make me laugh, even worse when you make me cry. I hate it when you’re not around, and the fact that you didn’t call. But mostly I hate the way I don’t hate you, not even close… not even a little bit… not even at all.
At the STWTS opening, I asked people to write their own captions to street harassers.
From Stop Telling Women to Smile Opening at Fresthetic on April 12, 2013. Brooklyn, NY.
Photos by Tatyana Fazlalizadeh
all of this
every single one
This past weekend NYU Accra traveled up to Tamale in Northern Ghana. Out of all of the trips, this may have been the most moving/beautiful/favorite experience here in Ghana so far. There are sure to be many more posts about each activity we did this weekend, here is the overview. I took a 12+ hour bus ride to Tamale, making many “bush stops” (aka peeing in the wilderness) along the way. On Friday we went to Tamale’s Central Mosque, then to a lecture about Northern Ghana. After a quick lunch, we went to a health clinic run by Dr. Abulai, where patients are not forced to do any treatments if they choose not to. We then stopped by a shea butter cooperation (came home with some souvenirs), and lastly we split up into groups and went to traditional Diviners, who told me about my future, whether I wanted to know it or not!
Saturday was another packed day! We started off the day with a drive to Paga to see the slave camp, one of the camps where slavery started, right in the heart of West Africa located less than 5 miles from the Burkina Faso border. We then had a heartwarming experience meeting with a community of widows once ostracized by their old communities, who have come together weaving baskets to make a living (I bought 2)! We then drove back to the guesthouse to get some sleep before our big drive home the next day. On Sunday we left around 4:30 am and made our way back to Accra.
Many of the activities this weekend really touched me, and I felt like I might have really impacted people’s lives. It is difficult to explain, but maybe my future blog posts will help explain how I feel!
“Do not fall in love with people like me we will take you to museums and parks and monuments and kiss you in every beautiful place so that you can never go back to them without tasting us like blood in your mouth”
Last weekend NYU Accra traveled to the Volta Region of Ghana to a village called Adaklu Dawanu, located about 45 minutes out of Ho, the region’s capital. Trip was a volunteer/home stay visit, and we teamed with DIVOG (Disaster Volunteers of Ghana) to help put in cement floors for the kindergarten classes, which are currently held under a beautiful, budding mango tree.
After about a 4 hour bus ride, we pulled up to the entire village clapping, smiling and singing. As we sat down, many young (pre-teen) girls dressed in beautiful fabrics danced for us and sang. We all introduced ourselves, danced, and the chief poured libations for us, welcoming us into the community. Shortly after, it was off to work! I started by fetching water to make the cement. I went with a few other students, some of the mothers in the village, as well as some young girls (no more than 10 years old). We chatted and giggled while walking to the stream where they gather their water to wash and build. They have a well that they fetch their drinking water from. Wanting to be like a true Ghanaian, my peers and I sat the water buckets on our heads and began to carry them back. Boy, did the walk back seem a lot further! The young girls from the village were pros, and here I was spilling water down my shirt and onto the ground. The women were nice, and with only a few laughs, they traded me for a smaller bucket. We dumped our buckets for the men to use to mix the cement and went back for more. It was such a lengthy process, and one of the girls told me that she does this 3 times a day for water!
I went back and decided to let other students try fetching water, since I knew we all wanted to try it at least once. I helped with transporting stones, and then cement into the classrooms for the men to smooth out the cement. It was so labor intensive, and I wondered, is my unskilled labor really helping anything? Is this just for me to exploit their culture, understand how “real Ghanaians” live? I know some of our program fees went to buy all of the supplies like cement and rocks for the village, but what are they gaining from 30+ Americans coming for 24 hours, giving them some bread, and then leaving again? I will come back to these questions, which I think I may know some of the answers to these complex questions that frankly, have been in my mind throughout this entire study away experience.
As work slowed for the day and the sun began to set, a woman with her baby ran up to me and told me her name was Juliet and she was my host mother for the night. As her 15 year old son, Rafael, took my pillow and backpack and we headed off through the homes to our own. I met the rest of the family including the father (who I actually never found out his name…), Juliet (mother), Rafael, Gifty (see top photo) and Stella (6 month old beautiful little girl). We sat around watching Juliet cook her family dinner and after a while, the kids and I all walked around and Rafael showed me around (I even got to carry Stella on my back— a goal of mine from day 1 in Ghana!).
I took a bucket bath in a cement structure that was only about 4 and a half feet tall (good thing I am short). It also did not have a door. I was not sure whether I felt “free” or unsure of the whole experience, for as I was washing the dirt and grime from a day’s worth of work off of me, I could see the entire village out cooking and enjoying the other NYU students. Either way, it was refreshing. Juliet dressed me in some of her fabric and after fleeing from a rainstorm, I went off to dinner.
After dinner, there was a bonfire with drums and dancing. I danced with many different people, and it was so dark outside, I couldn’t even really see who! We all danced for hours, and then Juliet gathered Rafael, Gifty and I to come back to get ready for bed. We all slept in their cement home, which consisted of one room. I had my own little mattress to sleep on, and not going to lie, it was very hot that night and I could hear some creepy crawlies around me, but I survived the night so all is well!
The next day we dressed up for church and then after many pictures, went back to work to finish up the cement floors. Then before I knew it, it was time to leave. I’ve always had a hard time leaving places. My parents still chuckle/cringe when we talk about the many plane rides home from vacation where I pissed everyone off on the plane crying because I didn’t want to leave. And as I attempted to get the last few photos of my new mother and siblings, the tears began to come. I forced myself to say goodbye, wipe my tears and climb back onto our bus. I don’t like being over dramatic, but I just become attached to places, that is how I have always been. The new becomes familiar very quickly and I have a difficult time putting these events, people and places in the past.
At the end I realized that we were giving them more than unskilled labor, attempting to carry water and sometimes failing. I hope that during my stay, I gave them as much as they gave me. No matter what their circumstances, they gave me shelter, clothes and food, essentials to survival, and they gave it with excitement and sincerity. I hope I gave them a few things. I hope I gave them the knowledge that they are not alone in this world, that although they feel like much of the world has forgotten about them, there are people like us who have not. I hope that I showed Rafael the value of education, and exposed him to ideas that reach outside of his village, but to also always remember where he came from. I hope that they have as fond memories of me as I do of them.
It sounds so corny, but this experience has been life changing, and I wish we had the opportunity to do more home stays in Ghana. I am so incredibly humbled by the passion and strength of the community. What community, in America, would come together to build a school for THEIR OWN CHILDREN? None that I know, they would just hire a contractor to do it. But there is something so special about this community that sacrifices so much for their children and loved ones, and it brought the community closer together.
Now that my hands are cramping and I am missing my host family once again, THE END.
Who knew that a British pop star singing about Hollywood could make me think about Ghana, but yet, Marina has done it again. I've been to a few of her concerts, and I am going to another shortly after I return from Accra. She is fun, sassy and her music is electrifying (Go Marina!).
Last year in my freshman writing class, we listened to Hollywood as we read along to the music. Upon the start of the song, I was so excited that my professor knew this up and coming (in America) artist. But as I looked around at my classmates, their scowls seemed to give the impression that they have not heard her music before.
Here are the lyrics:
American queen is the American dream American queen is the American dream She is a Polish girl in America Tall, tanned, hot blond, called Anya I asked her, "Why would you wanna be a Hollywood wife?" "Because I don't want to end up living in a dive on Vine, A dive on Vine" Air hostesses doing gossip magazine Crosswords on a flight to JFK Thirty nine years old With a mile high sheen Trying to stimulate a mind That is slowly starting to decay I itch my skin, I jump up and say Lady, "I know why your thoughts turn gray." [CHORUS:] Hollywood infected your brain. You wanted kissing in the rain, oh, oh. Living in a movie scene Puking American dreams, oh, oh I'm obsessed with the mess that's America I'm obsessed with the mess that's America A fat security making place for me As soon as I touch down in old L.A. He said, "Oh, my god, you look just like Shakira. No no, you're Catherine Zeta." "Actually, my name's Marina" Your mind is just like mine – All filled up with things benign. You're looking for the golden life. [CHORUS:] Hollywood infected your brain. You wanted kissing in the rain, oh, oh. I've been living in a movie scene Puking American dreams, oh, oh I'm obsessed with the mess that's America I'm obsessed with the mess that's America American dream is the American queen American queen is the American dream, is the American dream [CHORUS:] Hollywood infected your brain. You wanted kissing in the rain, oh, oh. I've been living in a movie scene Puking American dreams, oh, oh Hollywood infected your brain. You wanted kissing in the rain, oh, oh. I've been living in a movie scene Puking American dreams, oh, oh. I'm obsessed with the mess that's America I'm obsessed with the mess that's America
Now... bringing it back to my study abroad experience. At my internship, I have made a few friends who are nurses at Korle Bu. Many of them joke about coming back to America with me, maybe even marrying about me (that would be a WHOLE other post). But a recurring theme is how great America is, and just like in Marina's song, a vision of "America" has been instilled in these young, successful men that they would leave girlfriends, family and friends to come to this "perfect" land. Being abroad, I realize how much I enjoy being away from this idealized country, but I will never be able to undo their 20 some years of dreaming about my home country.
I wish there was a way to show them that America isn't the place that they explain to me. However, I have had the freedom to make assumptions about Ghana, but then have the resources to come see it for myself. The world is so unfair, and some of these friends will never be able to experience America, and will only have stories and the media to feed their assumptions.
Bojo Beach… A beach located only 40 minutes outside of Accra that only is a 20 cedi (~$10) cab ride! A few of us went last week to Bojo to get away from the chaos of the city and celebrated a friends 21st birthday (in the best way- on the beach!). It was such a great day relaxing, swimming and spending time with great company. Before you get to the beach, you take a canoe across a little lagoon, leading to the sandy beaches along Ghana’s coast. The beach was clean, and there were no hawkers (always a relief!).
Many of the beaches in Accra are too dirty to swim in, due to the lack of proper waste management systems. A lot of the city’s trash and waste is filtered out to the ocean through the Korle Lagoon. I pass this lagoon and its connection to the ocean coming back from my internship at Korle Bu Teaching Hospital—- let’s just say that it leads for some smelly moments on the tro tro.
We are very fortunate to be able to get out of the city to escape Accra for a little bit of time and just lay around. Only regret, is that I would have known about this little gem earlier in the semester…
“The coldest March day in London in 27 years!” — The headlines after my family waited 1.5 hours outside Buckingham Palace to see the Changing of the Guards. My bones have never felt so much pain just from the cold, but worth it? Most definitely I will update in another post about more of my spring break in London! Here are a few photos!
Confession: I was missing Ghana the whole time!
A little piece of my NYU Washington Square life, donate to the 1831 Fund! I know I will donate once I am back from studying abroad!