Make up designer James Clark

Working as a professional make up designer for film,TV, print and event. Make up artistry is my passion and a career choice. Travelling across the UK and wider I have worked with some amazing people over the years and continue to learn and expand my...

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I created it, I worked for it and I built it.

Jamesc

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The artist at large

[jamescmakeup]

2016 final thoughts

I have been watching so many groups on facebook etc (I will be deleting A LOT in the coming weeks).  Taking in the demographics and marketing strategies employed by indie film and TV, with particular focus on the make up artists.  

What I saw was a pattern of behaviour.  In layman's terms the attitude was “Screw you I’m ok,” till they’re not then they seek out advice. Citing bad clients and mean people.  Begging for support. 

Buzz words and unrealistic expectations thrive in this environment.  Both sides being at fault: 

Movie and TV makers expect champagne on a zero budget, the make up artists who are so desperate for attention and credits (don’t deny it you do) are saying that yes they can do it. 

Mmmm well your portfolio and begging for support/advice on the forums beg to differ.  

I appreciate that we all have to learn, the way to do that is not throw yourself into the professional arena and start claiming talents you don’t have, yes you have a skill set, but how transferable is it? 

Your portfolio is a page on fb with a zillion selfies and weekend clients who want glammed up for a party on the cheap. Where are the skills you are claiming represented? 

Editorial tears?

FX skills?  Yes you have some latexy halloween stuff but real work that was in a film? TV Show?  Can you demonstrate the necessary skills?  

More often than not (and please I am not knocking the hustle), you have been to college, done a few shoots, practiced on your mates and then think yeah I can be a makeup designer.  

Nope. 

Look I am not saying don’t reach for it I am asking you to be realistic.  Assist, see there I go swearing again, assisting is not a bad thing.  It takes the pressure off you.  Someone else can take the fall when it doesn’t work or you can actually learn the skills.  What I do for bridal is different to my TV work.  I don’t promote all my business.  

Taking a two day workshop does not qualify you to teach.  I have been doing this for 18 years folks and I rarely if ever teach.  

Learn the business before you compete, cause working free is not the way.  

[jamescmakeup]

editorial testing

It feels like months since my head has been clear enough to actually shoot something really planned. To actually have enough room in my head to go “yeah I can see where I want this to go and how I want it to look.” 

Visions of distorted male figures in derelict buildings cross my mind  in a twisted sense of editorial splendour.  Alongside the haunted look of ethereal women in the forest give my mind a twisted, vintage feel to the work planned.  

What, you may ask, has brought this on? 

Truthfully, I am not sure but my god am I glad.  I have a vision for my work and a direction to head in that makes me feel like I have a plan.  

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Finalising a deal with this amazing company

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Behind the scenes with brush works cosmetics

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This ain't my first time at the rodeo

Mommie dearest

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crowd funding films

I have been talking to a fellow makeup artist (relatively new to the biz) and a costume designer, both of whom are working on a crowdfunded project together.  

Both of them are worried now about the logistics, a full trailer is being shot (at their cost) to create something tangible that can be used to pull in the extra funds to make the epic film they agreed to take.

Here’s where my concern lies. 

No one, and I mean no one, has looked at the logistics of this. From the top down its all speculative and based solely around the idea that eventually this will make money and so afraid to say no are people that they are jumping on board with their eyes wide shut. 

I am a believer in supporting indie film and have done pretty much since the start of my career but heres the rub, when do you stop making art and start commercialising? 

For every 1 feature that will be produced by crowd (or similar methods) there are 4 more short films.  

Its always about the art. 

Now we all know the arguments “camera equipment is expensive” but what about the costumes? They want fully built from scratch pieces and the makeup is always epic and requires hours, days sometimes even weeks of prep.  

Who pays for it?  You do.  The make up artist gets travel, which often doesn’t cover the cost of travel, £20 to cover the price of a large car that needs £40 plus to run for two days.  Well that was your choice  to buy a jeep is the argument. 

Wrong. It was your choice to hire the jeep driver.  Add in they are often so caught up in their vision it becomes impossible for them to understand that this is not your vision your building your cv and/or hoping to earn money.  Well you should have this mindset of I need to pay the bills at least.  

What bothers me is the crew who aren’t on the “lead committee” ie the ones who are producing this epic crowd funded, micro budget etc etc affair, are feeding you stories of grand dreams of awards.  yes sometimes you do get an award for the film but when its done as a freebie whats the use an award it won’t pay your bills.  It loses its shine for me. 

“wow you won a (insert award here) for that?  Well i just did some corporates and cashed the cheque but hey ho.” 

At least some of them are moving forward from the classic “festival and youtube” method and looking at options but scratch past the surface folks. 

IF you get on board with a crowd project do the maths.  I have talked about this before and will add the links.  You are an investor in the project and need to be aware of every single detail of the finance, the marketing strategy, the sales plan etc. 

~I have included 3 links to my previous blogs that will hopefully illustrate my point: 

http://jamescmakeup.tumblr.com/post/142733195943/reality-check-and-craft-services

http://jamescmakeup.tumblr.com/post/142233447003/an-open-letter

http://jamescmakeup.tumblr.com/post/4867636370/deffered-payment-on-film

I know my words are harsh but heres the rub.  Someone has to say it.  

Ultimately though I am just a make up artist so what would I know.......

[jamescmakeup]

twists and turns

I have been watching all the social media and resulting mess from the gurus proactively saying “everyone's a star, anyone can do make up.” 

Yes its true anyone can do make up but it takes skills in business, management and marketing to make it a career. 

I see a lot of short sighted advertising and posting concerning make up artistry ranging from: 

“special offer of £20 for a booking in September.  I'm a celebrity makeup artist....” 

Really.  You do celebrities and you charge £20?  Can you confirm that with references? Images? Tear sheets?

“I specialise in film and TV.”  

Show me your CV.  show me your portfolio and website.  Nope?  Can’t do it?  What a surprise. 

Bridal and editorial. 

 Where are your tear sheets?  Can you tell me what magazines “sparkle and glitter make up by x” has on their CV? 

When will people stop over reaching and actually realise that you can be an assistant its not a negative thing.  That not everyone will think you're a genius and yes we are always learning. 

I will be very carefully reviewing my diary, my contacts and my affiliations over the next few months with a view to cutting out the deadwood and walking away from anything that cannot show me a solid marketing strategy, at least some consideration to the budget and doesn’t rely heavily on my paying out thousands of pounds for the privilege of working.  

Every contract will be reviewed in minute detail and if I am not happy and there is no room for negotiation then I am out.  Losing copyright, intellectual property etc is not happening on my watch. 

[jamescmakeup]

Brushwork

New on my radar I am really pleased to be working with the amazing Brushwork cosmetics line 

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A deep cleansing breath

I have been talking to not only casting agents but producers, some of whom I have known for many years.  With the abundance of entertaining offers coming my way: 

thousands of pounds for a speculative ad and pr campaign an some loosely termed celebs in my clientèle list anyone....

I feel like today was a breath of fresh air. 

A whole host of updates, comments, likes and the right kind of attention for my work (thank you instagram) has brought me to a conclusion process and I can see a direction.  

So far I have had a lot of interest and gratitude for coming to the fore with new work in the London market which in turn has led to contacts in the USA, Germany and my favourite home from home India.  

Yes my darling dears, I have a niche.  

Between now and the end of July, I will be doing a massive amount of test shooting which will be split between: 

Submission to magazines (two are already in the planning stages) 

A comedy Sketch show in Glasgow

House of iKons casting for their show during LFW. 

I wil lnot only create the look and apply the make up but I will shoot the images myself. 

My website will be kept (www.jamescmakeup.com) but I will be working on a new one, I will reveal all in due course.  The focus of which will be video, images of my work as both make up and photographer and I will be looking closely at the European market.  

[jamescmakeup]

When I work on photo shoots or create something new, even for fashion, I try and come with a concept and back story.  The reason for this is to make it easier to understand.  Same principle applies for period drama.  I spent hours writing up a piece once for a client that was a fraction of what was required just as a demo.  Research is the key element to your work.  I know there are TV shows and films on all the decades and historical periods.  However its still a good idea to go to the library, scour the internet and really put your time into it.  Over the next few weeks I will be sitting at the computer and editing my own work and putting context to the new images, already planning around the models I have, replanning the designs for a film project and then working on some fashion ideas for a smaller submission.  

[jamescmakeup]

marketing strategies

I have been meeting people and on calls constantly, something my neighbours and family can attest to.  The purpose of which: business.  

Although I am not shooting images constantly and doing selfies of my work, I find it tedious to be fair, I do spend my time in meetings and conference calls to discuss strategies.

With this in mind I now have a twofold plan:

 Beauty make up: a minimum of two males and 1 female model to create some beauty work with video and stills to showcase the makeup work.  

Film makeup: Same as above with just a few alterations and thanks to some fortuitous timing I will be setting the parameters with my client for June.  

 Its all about the work and getting the concrete details in place to move JamesC forward.  

[jamescmakeup]

One size fits all

I have noticed a few sites recently for bridal/occasions and film/TV that are one size fits all.  

What does that mean?   Well in simple terms clients can book on price and forgo the skill element which is good and bad.  By setting a rate they can then budget which is good for their wedding, film, TV shoot BUT also means that the artists lose out.  

It will increase the cut throat aspect of the services on offer to an insane level. 

“why are you charging x when can go through this app and get someone for y?” 

The age old argument and barter will end.  It will not be about the skill level, it will be who has the best kit and the lowest price.  Which from a consumer stand point is a major plus. From an artists side?  not so much. 

Here’s why:  

You spend thousands of pounds/dollars/ euros/rupees (you get the idea) on your training.  Your work has been honed and perfected doing bridal, fashion work and special occasions, films and TV shoots and you charge according to union or local area rates. 

Along comes an app that unifies everything and asks you to set your rate.  Fantastic!  Less hassle, a set fee each week and you get advertised and promoted right?  

Wrong.  You go into a database and the client searches and loves your work BUT you charge £150 (for example) for a bridal including the trial.  Someone else is your catchment area charges £50.  So why would they book you? 

“Because I have the talent, the testimonials and skills thats why!” 

Sure and they are looking to streamline and save some money so......

[jamescmakeup]

portfolio tips

I want to make this as quick and painless as I can.  PORTFOLIOS.

I am a judge on a make up and modelling competition, we review portfolios as part of the gig.  So for the make up artists I wanted to give some pointers.

NO SELFIES:  With the amount of fb groups and pages dedicated to test shooting there is no excuse to send selfies.  

show your work: I want to see the make up, if you did a body paint (full body) then fine full length, if its beauty show head and shoulders, fx show the work.  

Context: One question I will ask you is “what was the purpose of this?”  Did you shoot it for a beauty look?  Was it a film?  If its FX what was the story behind it.

This leads to websites.  Keep it clean, keep it simple and don’t use stock images unless its make up brushes or tools.  I want to see your work not someone else's.  

[jamescmakeup]

Photo and make up: JamesC Choreographer: Jett Viverre Model/Actor: Shaikh Mirza

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reality check and craft services

I am watching a few threads and topics on Facebook, mostly with a sense of fascination and revulsion.  Why? 

Well its two fold.  I watch the make up artist pages and the indie film ones. 

In make up I get a sense of horror when I see the whole “I am qualified and experienced, just completed my college course.  Can anyone tell me how I can do……” 

Or my second favorite,  “I am looking for brand x, can anyone tell me where in the UK I can find it?

Here’s a thought, GOOGLE!!!  Get on the computer spend some time researching and actually find it.  By the time you have sat down and typed that, waited for a response and read it.  You could have (shocker) found it!! 

Same with a technique, read a book, try it, experiment its make up.  

Indie film, I am tired of the whole “its my artistic vision, I don’t want to commercialize it and be answerable to  someone.”

GROW UP!!! 

We are a service industry, we sell our skills and you know what we answer to people.  Example.  I have just completed two days on a short film, student project, I needed to get back to work in a small way and just away from the stresses of paperwork and business planning. 

On the first day I called the director to make up and asked the question: 

“Are you happy with the look?  Do you need any changes?”

The shock value of this was sad, she was so used to being told this is the look instead of verifying that the look was correct was amazing.  I stayed on site, checked the make up on camera, ensured that the work was suitable and when requested offered opinions.  Its called being a professional make up designer.  I have to ensure my clients happy.  If the budget is zero or in the millions you need to still be a part of the project and do your job.  

Bottom line folks know your craft.