janetina : un culo inquieto

[janetinaa]

Is there anything, apart from a really good chocolate cream pie and receiving a large, unexpected check in the post, to beat finding yourself at large in a foreign city on a fair spring evening, loafing along unfamiliar streets in the long shadows of a lazy sunset, pausing to gaze at shop windows or at some church or lovely square or tranquil stretch of quayside, hesitating at street corners to decide whether that cheerful and homy restaurant you will remember fondly for years is likely to lie down this street or that one? I just love it. I could spend my life arriving each evening in a new city.

Bill Bryson, Neither here Nor there

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Chocolate mountains, tarsiers, scooter around town, low jumps and high jumps, and breakfast by the river. And not many tourists! Philippines is still a barely discovered gem.

Oh yeh, French Fry got to eat a live worm, since the cool kids (residents) were doing it. Tasted like sand, he said.

(Photos taken in Bohol, Philippines in March 2015)

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The big swing ride installed by the owners of the Fox & The Firefly Cottages at the Loboc River in Bohol, Philippines. Truly awesome.

We also had a fantastic stay at the Cottages, would recommend! Read my rather long review here.

(Videos taken in Bohol, Philippines in March 2015)

[janetinaa]

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Photo sequence of us getting fresh uni - freshly killed sea urchin - in puerto galera. Had no idea uni looked like this. They were moving their spines around right before the boatman broke the prickly spines off and cracked the shell. Delicious for breakfast but makes me want to eat/kill less uni.

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Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas and ruins galore, dating from the 11th and 12th centuries in Bagan, Myanmar (Burma)

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Photos taken at Inle Lake and Bagan, Myanmar (Burma)

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Photos taken in Yangon and during the trek to Inle Lake, Myanmar (Burma) with a Nikon COOLPIX P510 (alternative: Nikon COOLPIX P530 16.1 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 42x Zoom NIKKOR Lens and Full HD)

[janetinaa]

Getting yourself to Myanmar

Myanmar is an attractive destination for various reasons. It's opening up and becoming more tourist and investor-friendly. Its rich history and architecture is captivating. And Burmese food is so delicious yet healthy. Flights to Yangon are pretty cheap from Kuala Lumpur (where we had a layover anyway). 

Here are some tips (to help with planning) and photo highlights (to convince you to go).

There are ATM machines in the large cities, so you don't have to bring a ridiculous amount of USD

Apply for your visa online at the official government website, Myanmar eVisa. Cost was $50 USD and took about 5 days.

Flights are the best option for inter-city travel throughout the country, especially if you're on a tight schedule (think: 2 hours vs 12 hours by bus/train). We found it difficult to purchase tickets directly from airline websites so instead went through travel agency VisitMM (email: [email protected]). They have reasonable rates and I think they're a Burmese company.

In Yangon, Shwedegon Pagoda is a must but Kandawgyi Lake is a great lake park with a good amount of dining options. Wish we had something like this in Manila.

The trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake is totally worth it. We went with a local service called A1 Trekking and would highly recommend hiring them. You can contact founder Sanlinn at [email protected]. Sanlinn's brother was our tour guide, he spoke great English and showed us a lot of cool things along the way. The 9+ hour trek took us through diverse landscapes and all of it was beautiful.

At Nyaung Shwe, we stayed at Hotel Brilliant and it was our favorite hotel/accommodation of the whole trip.

Balloons over Bagan is pretty worth it.

[janetinaa]

"He jumped over. Are you gonna?" "Are you?" "You first." "You wuss." - at least that's how I imagined the conversation went.

[janetinaa]

Bahay Kalipay weekend retreat

Many people here seem to be searching for something - actively searching (myself included). Whether it be for peace and quiet, some nature and simplicity, or a drastic change in life and lifestyle (raw diet). But it's not a search that's aggressive, that's rabid or forceful. It's a much more passive, happy and appreciative yet still intense search. I can clearly hear the sound of the wind chimes and large leaves of nearby trees brush against each other roughly, the branches swaying to and fro. Bahay Kalipay does facilitate/provide a good environment for the search. The message is sweet - sit back, relax, let your mind wander and focus and wander and focus. A little leaf just dropped down next to me. It's okay to take your time to figure things out. Yoga is nice that way, it encourages you to step back and take a different look at your life, your body. As my friend Ariane has said, your mental health is as important (if not more) than your physical health. It's so normal for people to go to the gym but not to seek a way to mend their minds. The two are inextricably linked.

[janetinaa]

Moments from this weekend's yoga and meditation retreat at Bahay Kalipay, Puerto Princesa

[janetinaa]

Show me the money!

This topic may not be the most PC, but it is a common aspect of expat life in the Philippines…

…being asked to lend money.

It happens. All the time. Especially if you have hired help or Filipino relatives/in-laws, or work at a local company with Filipino colleagues.

I was caught off guard but eager to help when my earliest domestic helper asked for a loan of PhP 4,000 to buy medicine for her children. I became more wary (and slightly suspicious) when she started asking for Php 4,000 every month or so. My driver, one of the most reliable people I know, has also requested to borrow money – PhP 7,000 at a time. Whether there is a reason to be suspicious or the need is actually legitimate, the fact is, low and lower-middle income Filipino citizens do not have many options. And if you spend enough time interacting with them, you often become the preferred option.

But let’s break down some of those alternatives, and look at the level of financial inclusion (range of financial services available) in the Philippines.

Person X is in dire need of PhP 25,000. What options does Person X have?

(1) Borrow from formal institutions: a) Commercial banks and b) Government programs like Pag-IBIG or the Social Security System (SSS).

Commercial banks charge interests rates in the mid to high teens. Red tape consists of red lots of paperwork and fees and more fees (for processing, late payments, amendments, etc.). And chances of getting a loan are low – many people don’t even have bank accounts because they can’t afford maintaining account balances. Formal financing institutions don’t serve the “unbankable” population – people without steady and formal income, collateral, reliable credit history, etc., like my part-time hired help.

Pag-IBIG/Home Development Mutual Fund provides only loans for housing, and SSS provides “salary loans” and “calamity loans.” However, both programs require borrowers to have contributed to the funds through formal employment.

(2) Borrow from informal institutions: a) “5-6” loans from community lenders and b) loans from friends, family members or colleagues/employer (AKA you, reader).

The colloquial term “5-6” comes from the payment condition – borrow 5 pesos and repay 6 pesos in a week’s time, thus, these loans are known for the requisite 20% interest. Interestingly, a large portion of 5-6 lenders consists of Indian nationals who have migrated to the Philippines to participate in this lucrative industry. (Speaking of not being PC, Filipinos refer to an Indian lender as “Bombay.”) There are many Bombays in small communities across rural and urban Philippines because the service is in high demand, since so many people get denied formal financial assistance. While expensive, 5-6 loans at least offer flexible loan repayment and renewal terms, and do not require official documents nor collateral. However, the 5-6 lenders mostly target borrowers who need loans for small business purposes, and not for personal emergencies.

Borrowing from friends/family/colleagues/employers has all the perks and none of the disadvantages. These suckers, I mean, very nice and caring lenders, normally ask for zero interest, no collateral, no official documents, and repayment is flexible without the extra burden of penalties/fees for late payment. (Would you actually call the cops if your borrower is a month or two late with paying his last Php 2,000 owed?)

So it makes sense that people want to borrow money from us foreigners (or anyone relatively well off). This isn’t to say that I am encouraging readers to make a habit of loaning money. It’s a very personal and emotional matter, and really depends on the specific needs of the borrower, your relationship with him/her, and your personal financial standing. Lend only if you’re comfortable with the situation. If you give assent once, the borrower may be emboldened to ask for more loans in the future.

But sometimes our feelings of guilt and sympathy overcome our reluctance, here are some things to consider when agreeing to a loan request:

Minimize  risk: lend an amount where the borrower can pay the loan back within a month or two based on his/her income.

We don’t lend more than we can afford to lose. Temporary work arrangements can end suddenly – if the hired help quits before full re-payment, getting your money back is unlikely. (I’d feel petty asking for that PhP 1,500 back…)

Haven't tried this yet, but an option is to try to make the payment directly to the need. Write a check payable to the school if it’s for tuition, or buy school supplies personally. I’ve heard that you can also pay Mercury Drug directly to fill the prescription.

At the end of the day, it’s only money. We try not to let it ruin our relationships or experience here. 

[janetinaa]

Climbing/hiking Mount Pico de Loro, October 2014

[janetinaa]

Weekend at las islas de gigantes

Another itch of the culo inquieto and we decided to get out of Metro Manila for the weekend to check out Las Islas de Gigantes, thus far still pretty little known islands off the coast of northern Iloilo. 

It's also (unofficially) known as the Scallop Capital of the Philippines.

Accommodation & Activities

The one major resort at La Isla de Gigante Norte is Hideaway Resort, owned and operated by Tourism Officer Joel Decano (tel: [phone]). The other resorts are smaller and probably cheaper, but with less amenities. And there are no resorts at Isla de Gigante Sur.

Joel was surprisingly quick with texting back and gave us the low down: 2 nights full board all-in expenses for 2 pax @ Php 2,730 each person, which includes the following:

Public passenger ferry to the Island and back from Estancia;

A private boat for a whole day of island hopping (~ 5 islands)

island entrance fees;

2 nights room accommodation (one small bed, personal bathroom, and electricity at night with a fan);

5 meals (seafood galore!);

Local guide;

Cave spelunking and trekking and guide;

and some motorbiking, while you're on La Isla de Gigante Norte.

View from the top of the lighthouse at Isla de Gigante Norte

There appears to be a trend of abandoned buildings on random Philippine islands

Our local guide, Erwin, was really sweet and a great host.

Island #1? This sand bar is covered with water at high tide

Antonia Island, where we stayed for lunch. And fresh seafood galore, omg salivating again. That huge bin of hammer shells (?) cost Php 200 (US $4.50).

Island #3? 

Pristine waters at Island Cabugao Gamay

The tangke inside Isla de Gigante Sur was at really low tide, but the water outside was deep enough for cliff diving. Look at that form!

Transportation

We flew Cebu Pacific to Roxas City in Capiz. From the airport, you can a) take a cab to Estancia Port for Php 1,800 or b) take a tricycle to the bus station at Roxas, then take the Ceres line bus to the Estancia Port bus station, and then take a tricycle to the port. We went with the former option as Cebu Pacific was an hour delayed and there is only one ferry daily that leaves at 1:30pm from Estancia Port. Apparently if they have lots of cargo the boat would even leave at 1:00pm. Fortunately, our cab sped to the port and we arrived at 1:28pm and the boat took off around 1:45pm.

On the boat, on the boat~~

Unfortunately for us, for the ride going back from the islands to Estancia, the public ferry's capitán and crew got wasted the night before on All Saint's Day and couldn't man the boat. So we were stuffed in a 20 person boat with about 50 people - families and packages and all. Felt like a Cuban rafter or a Mexican "mojado." 

Do note that on the way back to Roxas Airport, there are absolutely no cabs present at Estancia Port. So we walked to Estancia Bus terminal which is pretty shit.

The Ceres bus took two long hours and gets stuffed to the brim. My last 30 minutes were intensely uncomfortable as a Filipina mother pulled out a saggy boob to breastfeed her child next to me (which was fine), her kid rubbing up next to me (which was fine), and then she started falling asleep while breastfeeding and passing out on my shoulder (which was not fine).

A shame I don't have a photo that captured that lovely moment.

But overall it was an amazing, relaxing, and gorgeous trip. We saw flying fish, a rainbow, and a huge, live starfish. The natural beauty of this country still floors me. And it at times makes up for how horrible the city is. At times.

[janetinaa]

The best Chinese restaurants (according to me) in Metro Manila

As my friends and especially boyfriend know, food is a really important aspect of life for me. It seems to apply to most of my peers as well (and by peers, I mean Asian or Asian American compatriots). Since I started dating a Dutchman, I realized that we do not have the same cravings, taste buds, and priorities for food, and in particular, good Asian food. Blame my parents, for feeding me Chinese meals all day for 18 years of my life. For a while I thought I was just being weird, that I was always missing and craving delicious Chinese/Vietnamese/Korean/Japanese food, but when I had a reunion with my girlfriends this past summer in France, we spent 2 of the 7 days hunting for good pho and spicy Chinese cuisine. So I'm not that weird, hah! (Or we all are..)

AWESOME, AUTHENTIC, AFFORDABLE Chinese food in Metro Manila is actually much harder to find than one would believe, considering the oldest Chinatown in the world, Binondo, is here. I've been to Dong Bei Dumplings (meh), President Grand Palace (meh), and Wai Ying Tea House (for dim sum, super meh! - read my review here), all in Binondo and was sorely disappointed.

My not so PC thoughts: Even though this is the oldest Chinatown in the world, so it's probably quite Filipino-ized, there must be some FOBs in town! Where the FOBs be at?!

And after living here in Metro Manila for 15 months, I have come across three (3) awesome, authentic and affordable Chinese hole-in-the-walls. They're just not in Binondo. In no particular order, I give AAA grades to the following:

#1 Yen Yen Taiwan Street Food at 198 Wilson Street, corner of P. Guevarra in Mandaluyong

I've passed this place on the way from work a few times, but the exterior looks a bit ghetto and definitely not all hole-in-the-walls are delicious in the Philippines (they're mostly just dirty with gross bathrooms sans toilet paper). This morning I was browsing through a food delivery website and I came across Yen Yen's menu... and I got super.. super.. excited. Their Spicy Wontons (8 pieces for Php 140 / US $3) in red hot oil are infinitely better than Shi Lin's (which are disgusting) - I literally killed that shit in 3 minutes, flat. In my car. Before it barely moved 2 inches in traffic. 

While Filipino bloggers rave about the fried Pork Chops and Chicken Chops, I go for the legit stuff: Hot & Spicy Pork Blood & Intestines (Php 270 / US $6)

Next time, looking forward to trying Yen Yen's Braised Beancurd, Taipei Braised Beef Noodle Soup or Beef Noodle w/ Tendon and Tripe, Wonton Noodle Soup, Stir Fry Pork Kidney and Eggplant with Minced Meat.

#2 Eat First Chinese hot pot at 4756 Salamanca St, Makati. it's the broth that's legit - get it half spicy half non-spicy (and spicy actually means spicy here). There's also a good array of meat and veggies to drop in, including beef tendons, pork blood (how come I'm the only person I know (besides parents) that ever eats this), fish/shrimp/beef balls, sweet potato noodles, lotus root, winter melon, kelp seaweed, ho fan, etc. Lots of Chinese FOBs seen here.

#3 Mao Jia Hunan Cuisine at 7467 Bagtikan Street, San Antonio Village, Makati. The spiciness can be upped a notch but on the whole, this venue has a very solid menu, including Boiled Chili Beef with Veggies; Scrambled Eggs with Tomato, Rib Soup with White Gourd, Stir Fry Pork Stomach, Spicy Crab, Stir Fry Frog, etc. Also lots of Chinese FOBs seen here.

Special Mentions: Tim Ho Wan's dimsum, but that line is ridiculous and even I think not worth it; Hai Shin Lau's expensive canto-styled gourmet seafood; Lutong Macau's cheap, steamed suahe (游水蝦); and Crystal Jade's dim sum. I have been to the hole-in-the-wall You Jie Xiao Chao on Camia Street near Rockwell but the flavor didn't really do it for me (nor even the Dutchie, who's lived in Beijing for 2 years). 

Disclaimer: I am a Chinese American girl who *thinks* she knows what delicious and "authentic" Chinese food is. Qualifications: FOB parents who only eat Chinese food; lived in Hong Kong for half a year; lived in New York for 5 years (including 1 year on Lafayette St., Chinatown); best friends and former roommates are all Chinese-American and we often debate which region trumps all others i.e. Sichuan, Shanghai, Canton, Hong Kong, etc.; and oh yeh, the first three years of my life including when I first began eating solid food took place in Guangzhou, China, so I am, from nature and nurture, qualified to critique Chinese food. This also makes me extremely biased towards eating Chinese/Asian food all the time and makes my boyfriend extremely tired of eating this shit all the time.

[janetinaa]

(via Deliverance - The Slum - Al Jazeera English)

A look into poverty and family planning in urban Metro Manila.

Powerful documentary, worth watching the 47 min if you're at all interested in society and poverty in the Philippines.