My husband doesn’t ask for anything on his birthday. I’m the one who takes it upon myself to plan a short getaway or nice dinner to celebrate. Vermont and Miami were my ideas in years’ past, but he enjoyed himself immensely just the same. This year, he had one request: Dine at Joe Beef in Montreal.
We had seen a profile of the restaurant on Anthony Bourdain’s The Layover and were blown away by their foie gras Double Down, a play on KFC's needlessly gluttonous monstrosity which replaced buns with two deep fried chicken fillets. Joe Beef used two decadent slabs of foie gras instead. We had visited Montreal twice before and were eager to go back to try Joe Beef (even though the dish had been discontinued) and L'Express, a French restaurant with a delicious octopus appetizer and a bit of old 19th century Midtown Manhattan flair with it’s black and white tile and sharp waiters.
The day before my husband’s birthday, we made the drive up and I finalized the itinerary to pass the time. I coupled points of interest with acclaimed restaurants. I had warm and cool weather options for entertainment to maximize our ability to hit every spot. Brilliant. I know. The drive went well with my daughter scoring an A+. I had picked out Sparrow, a lauded Plateau-Mont-Royal area eatery for brunch for the next day and wasn't disappointed. Its short menu still left room for plenty of waffling about our selections for fear of missing out on a better dish. Delighted and highly impressed by our meal, a trip back before we left made its way onto the itinerary.
Okay, let’s hit the pause button. I’ve realized that I’m kind of uptight. I don’t like to fly at the seat of my pants on vacation. I want a plan. This derives from past vacations in which I got the ear-splitting and blood-boiling inquiry before I’d had a chance to take my first piss: “What are we doing today?” Then my husband and I would spend an hour looking up attractions. He would casually mention an activity and I'd worry it would be a waste as the sun was racing ahead of our tenuous non-schedule. So in addition to already being up late and a zero tension partner, I was like a spring under pressure. You ever worry that someone else isn’t worried? Guilty. From then on, I got academic with it. And I’m still getting better. For vacations, I have plans for everyday, whether it’s an activity or a chance to get sunburnt. Days can be swapped but I prefer most activities be completed. There is nothing wrong with that omigod stop being so judgmental you don’t even know me like that. LOL? Nevermind, I don’t know how that abbreviation’s proper usage. Bah humbug…
And now back to your regularly scheduled program…
After a plea from my uncle to go back to Ottawa, I reluctantly agreed, shifting my plans around to accommodate our venue change. One great thing resulted from our detour: A trip to the Canadian Museum of Civilization. Inside was a fantastic children’s museum that even I enjoyed. I was eager to visit more, but pitter patters plopped back to the fake storefronts and games every time.
At the end of the children’s area was an exhibit on Terry Fox, a Canadian hero who endeavored to run across Canada to raise cancer awareness. He himself had become an amputee at 18 from osteosarcoma. He wore a custom prosthetic for running which was rudimentary device at best with an articulating knee and belt straps for quadriceps. A video looped at the end of the exhibit with him running. Just the sound of him running. There was a distinct rhythm to the clop clopping of his prosthetic against the pavement and it was eerie yet difficult to turn away. It was heartbreaking in a way that made you hope his courageous story had a triumphant resolution. Terry never made it to the Pacific.
On our way back to Montreal, I was eager to get items checked off the list and although the trip was for my husband, there was still one little thing I wanted for myself. In the meantime, we went to Parc Maisonneuve…
Montreal Botanical Garden and Butterfly Conservatory
Bug love at the Montreal Insectarium
We finally got to go to Joe Beef mid week. Our date nights are few and far between, so I dressed casually but stylish with my new Coach heels just because. The scene from the restaurant foyer smacked of a comfy and dimly lit farmhouse style dining room with checkered cloths and quirky wall decor. A short corridor toward the back led us to our reserved table where we stared expectantly at the chalkboard menu written entirely in French. Surely our rudimentary ciphering would yield win after win.
We always have the same tactic at a restaurant: We order different starters, mains and desserts and taste each other’s dishes to sample as much of the menu as possible. But our intrigue circled one dish in particular: cheval. For the non-Francophones among us, that’s horse. Yes, like Black Beauty. Or Secretariat. Or American Pharaoh. In that one dish was teetering the conflict of consumption mixed with dogged curiosity. I ordered it of course.
Joe Beef is the type of place where you trust the instincts of the chef and their menu. They are allowing you passage into an realm of possibility and contemplation. When I received the horse, I didn’t know it would be tartare and atop a baguette, but split the yoke atop it and dug in diligently. It was delicious. Flavored with horseradish (zing!) and other spices I couldn’t identify, it tasted like a delicate red meat. No twang. No gaminess. Just delight.
After the foie gras and ham jelly toast starter for him, entrees of duck and chicken, we were three quarters of a tank full with just enough space to spare. By that point we were so filled with indecision that to choose desserts seemed unthinkable. So we didn’t. “We’d like two desserts. Your choice.” We received eclairs filed with a violet cream and a thin slice of a 30 layer cake flavored with hazelnut praline, chocolate and vanilla. Coupled with our cocktails and beer, we left fuller, happier and even with a recommendation from the waiter for delicious pastries at Kouign Amman. I decided this time on a single shitty photo for documentation. We saved the memories instead.
I couldn’t take as many pictures as I wanted during the trip as I had an antenna out for my still incompletely potty-trained toddler, her meal times and activity planning. Wound up? Screw it, YES. But after her horrendous behavior at L’Express (which she acted like a typical toddler instead of her usual old soul), a vacation's paradoxical ability to cause stress, I finally did get that one little thing for myself. Stay tuned for a complete post on it. :-)