Ellie Gavin

Lsad Art and Design 1st Year Fashion Design

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Final Photographs of Deconstruction Garment Project:

The final photographs from the photoshoot we did.I am happy with the outcome and I learned a lot about how garments look in professional lighting and camera.I am very proud of myself as I had never made anything like this before and I think I did very well for my first project.I really like how I styled my piece and I think the hair and makeup photographed well.I would’ve liked for the fit of the top to be better as it slightly stickers out in the front and I would’ve liked it to lie flat.Overall I really enjoyed the process from going from sketches to mannequin to final garment and I am happy with how it came together.

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Photo shoot day: Thursday 27th April

Laura modelled for the photoshoot on Thursday for me.It was a stressful day as everyone was trying to get ready on time.I wanted a messy bun with lots of silver clips to tie in with the button on the back of the top.For eyeshadow we did a smokey eye with a star on each eye.Laura wore black chunky boots aswell.I was really happy with the overall look and styling of my garment.I thought the boots tied in well with the structure of the shoulders.These are some of the photos I took on the day and one that my friend amy took while we were doing Laura’s makeup.It was a really fun experience and I learned a lot from it on time management and how the garments look with professional lighting and camera.

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Embroidery on Garment:

I used a cream and golden beige embroidery thread for my garment.I didn’t have any particular plan I just decided to do a series of lines in patches of areas on the pockets.I really enjoyed the process of embroidering and I think it added a subtle detail to my top piece.It was a thereaputic process and i like the detail that it added to the garment.

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Embroidery:Jeanne Oliver- An Exploration of Abstract Painting

We did embroidery with Ruth and I wasn’t sure where to take it with my garment.I didn’t want it to be to stark in comparison to the cream/beige tone and I didn’t want anything too floral.Ruth suggested doing some more abstract line work.I found this artist Jeanne Oliver who embroiders over watercolour using a lot of abstract line work over it.I practiced on a piece of my fabric before going onto my garments.I decided to focus my embroidery onto the pockets of my top.

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Fitting to the model:

I got my friend Laura to model the garments I made.I had to make some adjustments as she was smaller fitting than the mannequin or myself.I decided to bring in the back of the top aswell as the waist of the skirt.I wanted to keep the button element at the back of the top so I moved the positioning of it.In the photos I took here you can see where I pinned the garments to fit Laura.

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Process of making:

I decided to add the button from the pants as an opening and closing mechanism on the back of the top.I thought it added a nice detail as the beige is a plain colour.I tried on the top and skirt many times during making the pieces.I used a mixture of hand sewing and machine sewing.I really enjoyed the process of seeing the garment come to be finished.I learned that when sewing it can change the shape of the garment and how it looks.I also added shoulder pads to the shoulders of the top as I wanted them to have a structure to them.

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Final design for my deconstruction project:

I decided to go with just using the pants as i thought the coat and the pants fabric did not go well together.I’ve decided on a two piece skirt and top.I hope to add shoulder pads to the top to elevate the shoulders and help them keep a more structured shape.I’ve began with hand sewing before working on the machines as I want the final fit to look well fitting.

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Comme des Garçons Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Comme des Garçons Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.

Deconstruction Designer :Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçon Spring Summer 2013.

I decided to look at Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçon as I think it really showed how deconstructed fashion can be worn.These pieces show a range of clothes from sleeves to being able to see the resemblance of shorts or shirts.These garments make you stop and think for a moment and really try to deconstruct and see the clothes deconstructed to make these garments.I thought the simple colour scheme was interesting as the designer kept to mostly creams,whites and blacks.Graham Hudson is the designer for the crown head pieces,within which we see crushed metals.I think the headpieces resemble the garments and I think it was an interesting choice to have the headpieces resemble the clothes being worn.The large proportions also highlight the crushed and deconstructed garments used to make these pieces.

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Sustainable Designers: Stella Mc Cartney

Stella McCartney is a designer brand well known for their sustainable efforts.The above photos are from the Spring Ready to Wear 2020 Runway.This runway at the time was Stella McCartneys most sustainable line yet.75% of the materials sourced were eco friendly.A lot of her pieces from this collection were based around the circle,a symbol of feminism aswell as the earth.I didn’t know that Stella McCartney was such a sustainable driven brand as most higher end designers don’t go to these lengths.I thought this collection was really interesting as the effort made to make it sustainable was admirable.The flowing fabrics and scallops made these spring dresses look elegant.The choice of large handbags and earrings I thought also made the line very ecclectic.

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Maison Margiela Spring Summer Couture 2017:

I was really interested in the designs of Maison Margiela and the use of deconstruction in the designs.i thoight that this particular runway was very interestiong with the use of bold colours and loose embroidery work.I think its really colourful and as we looked at embroidery with Ruth this stood out to me as I wold be interested in encorporating this into my piece.

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Maison Margiela Spring SS18 Ready to wear:

Maison Margielas Spring 2018 collection consists of Deconstructed sport inspired modern dress wear.John Galliano was inspired by a woman in haste,leaving the airport. décortiqué technique that has possessed Galliano of late, cutting garments around the seams (like sartorial exoskeletons) to add new layers of texture.It’s elevated everyday.I decided to focus on Maison Margielas Spring SS18 as I thought it had some similar resemblance to my fabric.I enjoyed how the trench was elevated with the use of fabric and the seams being shown with the fabric missing inbetween.

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I decided to go back to working with the mannequin and take inspiration from my favourite outfit from the lineup.My favourite aspect was the pockets so I tried to incorporate that into the looks aswell as the high neck line.I definitely want to have the pockets as a part of my final look.

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Fashion Line-up:

I decided on these 6 from my work on the mannequins.I focused more on the material from the pants and didn’t use the coat fabric as much as I didn’t think it made it cohesive with the looks.I used the lining of the coat for some choices and decided on a top made of the lining.My favourite from the line up would be number three as I really liked the asymmetrical pockets and high neck with a boxy fit.I am still unsure on which garment I would like to make yet but hopefully with more research it will be more clear.

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I decided to add some of my ideas that I didn’t decide to add to my line up in my sketchbook aswell as some that I did choose.I also wanted to show the layout of the pants taken apart to show where the outfits came from.I really enjoyed the process of breaking down the outfits from the mannequins and deciding which to put into my line up.

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Thursday 23rd March:

Working on the mannequin again today trying to get some more ideas.I decided to seam rip the lining from the coat as I didn’t like how they clashed.I liked my designs today it was nice to get a clean slate from Tuesday and have more ideas.I’ve found i’ve enjoyed working with the pants than with the coat.

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Mannequin Sketches:

Quick sketches of some of the outfits created with the deconstructed pants and coat.I tried out using Copic markers as I wanted to see if they would be best to use in the line up.I like how the copic markers look aswell as the fine liner pen.

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Deconstructing and Constructing :Monday 21st March

We used a seam ripper to take our garments apart.I started with my pants opening the side seams and inner leg seam of them.I played with them on the mannequin trying to create different shapes and pleats.I decided to further seam rip and take the front back of the pants apart from each other aswell as the waist band and pockets.I felt I had a lot more options to go with and enjoyed the process more.I seam ripped the arms from the coat also.I found the coat difficult to achieve anything with but maybe I might try to further seam rip apart the next day.These are 4 of my favourites from today. It was really interesting to see how you can form different things with an item of clothing.