kalynosky

The digital processbook

[kalynosky]

Rendered image of the bodysuit 1 in the print used in the collection

[kalynosky]

Coat development

To counteract with the extended heavy shoulders I wanted to try the other extreme as well. I have decided to make a coat with very short shoulder and sleeveless basically denying it any practical use. I started with men’s shirt block, I removed and side seams shaping, lengthen it and lowered the armhole considerably (5 cm). I drew the desired line on the panels and made the patterns. Then I made the first fit check in CLO. There I have pinned the obviously too loose parts and in order to distribute them around the body I have made a side panel. Then fitted adjusted patterns again. Made further fitting adjustment with shaping the panels as well as checked if the waist is low enough (supposed to be around hips). Once I was happy with the fit I made lining patterns in lectra and drafted collar and lapel and exported them to CLO. I have assembled the coat and added a belt running at the back for some bezzazz.

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Shirt development

I started with the AMFI basic block for men’s shirt. Completely took shaping away from the side seams and fitted it on the avatar. Then I have slashed sleeve pattern in two straight dow from S point. Positioned them together with corresponding panels (like raglan modification) and drew a curved line from SNP to sleeve hem. I created new patterns and fitted them. Step by step I have been lowering and reshaping the armhole until I was satisfied with the position as well as the shape of it. Then I dropped the neckline 1,5 cm as the basic block was really really tight and drafted the stand collar with a very slight curve so it doesn’t sit to tight towards the neck. I made the opening plackets. I took the sleeve patterns I have slashed before and reshaped them to give them more of the desired look with high crown, I have lengthened them and added slit opening and a cuff. I have fitted the shirt in final fabric properties and tweaked the fit a bit with pins and adjusting the patterns accordingly, mainly around the shoulder. 

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Pleated shorts development

For the shorts I used AMFI men’s trousers basic block. I have cut the legs to desired length and then created a new sheet and married patterns together adding space for a pleat as the idea was to eliminate the side seam. Then, I have marked out pleats on the waist and the hem and used effective pleat tool to add volume. Then I took the shorts to CLO, added the fold lines, stitched and fitted them. As I liked the effect right away I have decided to stick with it. I made the zipper facing and extension as well as the belt loops in CLO. 

The shorts are a part of a combo with the jacket thats why they share the print.

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Final movie inspiration

Considering possibilities of my computer and somewhat limited access to resources in school I was thinking what is feasible regarding the creation of the final movie. At the end I have decided on creating a scenery as described earlier and paste small animations created in clo, whether it will be a simple turntable with wind effect of small dance and I will render scenes for the movie in blender. That will allow me to efficiently create a movie with least “fake”, pasted on effect still keeping the cartoon like character.

The idea for this little choppy, funky animation style was taken from the music video. Simple yet impactful.

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Final movie scenery proposal

I wanted to create objects covered in prints found in the collection, cartoon like set is supposed to look childish and somewhat haphazardly. This will help to amplify the joyous and child-like naive nature of the collection I was going for. It will also allow large flexibility with minimal effort to change up the set and take different angles and shots, if there is enough time giving a chance for more creative approach to the final film.

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Sustainability strategy

I have made this umbrella strategy to be able to track back my steps in the decision making process later on as well as a practice in drafting long term strategies with an innovative outlook on manufacturing.

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Shirt 1 development

For this shirt I started off with AMFI men’s shirt block. I lowered the armhole 1,5 cm just to loosen it up slightly. For the heavily pleated back  I have used the effective pleat tool in modaris adding pleats of 2cm in the shoulder line and 10cm at the hemline. Ive created a 10cm closure placket and adjusted the sleeves to have the drape-y volume around the crow. I’ve added the collar.

The extra steps further are adding realistic hemline and cuffs to the sleeves as well as modifying the buttons.

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The jacket development

Pattern is based in the long shoulder silhouette I have made earlier as a starting point. The precursor for that was a men’s shirt block. I took the straight silhouette to CLO and fitted it. I pinned the visibly loose parts of the jacket, then measured the position of the pins. I transferred  those adjustments to modaris and decided on creating a side panel. I took the adjusted pattens with side panel to CLO and did 2nd fitting. Pinned minor adjustments still to be made and that gave me the final fit on the body. Then I have taken on sleeves and collar. I have drafter collar and lapel with a fun curve to it suspecting the collar will be too short to lay flat but I have decided to check in CLO first. At the same time I fitted sleeves. I took the shirt block sleeve, adjusted it to fi the new armhole and then cut in half and adding shaping to the partition seam on the top of the arm to create the desired crown shape. Ive repositioned BSS and FSS and took the jacket for another fitting round. Collar was vastly too small, I have created a cut line in it from the edge to fold line then measured the spread distance. Then used slash and spread tool to give the collar extra length on the outer edge around the shoulder point where it lacked the length the most.

I am still going to put lining in it and create the sleeve slits as well as breast pocket. 

[kalynosky]

 Trouser development

I started off with AMFI male trouser basic block. I have fitted it on the avatar and with garment pen I’ve been sketching out cut lines and divisions in the pattern. Once that was set I went ahead and cut the pattern creating front + back joined yoke. Then I went ahead and stretched the bottom part of the legs to get the flared line of the trouser. After that I have sketched pocket lines and traced them as pattern adding extra 1 cm on the pocket opening line for ease of use. I have made all the pockets and added pocket facing to the yoke part and stitched them all together to test construction and check the fit. Later on I have assembled the whole trouser. 

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Ballon trouser development

In the spirit of body proportions augmentation I wanted to develop a ballon trouser pattern that will slim down quite dramatically towards the ankle. I have cut in the pattern below knee line, more or less where I wanted the volume to stop, and added the volume around the thigh and then matched it to the bottom part of the leg. I have fitted them (3rd and 4th photo) and figured out how much I wanted to shape the bottom of the leg. 

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80′s dad colour versions

In the development process I have went through multiple coloured versions of the print in order to match others used print either so the clash or amplify each other.

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Version of the squiggle I have ended up using in one of the outfits. 

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For the romper in the collection I wanted to use denim or denim like material to gain the stiffness and sculpting possibilities of the denim. To gain some continuity in the line up I decided to use the same “demons” motive just in stark white on dark blue denim. As the yellow demons print used for the suit is coloured and has an underlaying print it doesn’t read so much as a repetition but more as a variation.

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When in need for another print idea for new design I was browsing through the library of what I have came up with so far I found this plate in black and white and decided to colour it in. I think that the effect is so nice and vibrant. It almost look like made with crayons which is a perfect feel to fit in with the rest of the collection and concept.

[kalynosky]

Emotional Socialism

When developing a print for a printed shirt I thought lacked some raw, non-joyful print tho just put some contrast into the print library but also acknowledge the healing properties of admitting to being unwell. In it I wanted to use the hand drawn words inspired by the anti-communist movements in eastern block throughout 1980s. Symbol of a bad situation and a human fight for better future, slow fight, persistent fight. An example of the font on the 2nd photo.

[kalynosky]

Body suits development

I have used the 3d avatar pen and flatten tool to create those 2 bodysuits which can be a nice addition to the outfit covering our skin, giving comforting feeling of pressure and giving me an extra space to use the print blending the body into one with the garment.

I have drew on the avatar the shapes I wanted, used flatten tool to create them and then added a zipper in a place I found fit.