Quick Guide when Bring a New Dog Home
From the airport to home, be safe, wait to open the crate when you are home in a secure place if possible, as some dogs may bolt out the crate then they could get lost.
Take your dog out of the crate, then go to potty area right away as the dog is more than likely need to use the bathroom. You may also use the phrase “go potty” right when or slightly before the dog squats or start peeing, with time, the dog will go potty when you use the phrase. Praise and treats can be used when the dog eliminated at the right area, after dog pee or poo, say good boy/girl, then give some food or treats.
Tips:
Set the crate close to the door to the backyard when arrive home, so the dog doesn’t have chance out of the crate and pee in the house before go outside.
If there’s a long walk to outside or you don’t have a backyard, let the dog out the crate, hold the leash, pick up the dog and go outside, and put the dog down when at the area for the dog to eliminate itself. A lot of times, dog starts walking and sniffing and pee before they go outside, pick up the dog could prevent this.
Food and Water. I highly recommended to control food and water intake, especially during house training period. Food should be given once or twice a day, leave it available to the dog for 15mins, if the dog is not interested, take the food away, and bring it out till next meal time. Water can be given same time as the food and leave there for a longer time, but pay attention when water is out, as when the dog drink the water or eat the food, you know they will use the bathroom in the next 30 mins or so.
Tips:
I recommend to feed the dog no later than 6 or 7PM, and do not have water out after 8PM, assuming you go to bed around 10 or 11PM, and take the dog out 15 to 30 mins after the dog eat or drink. Then take the dog out again before you go to bed. Depending on the age of the dog, you might need to get up once or twice at night to take the dog out.
Exercise will help the dog eliminate as well as increase appetite, structured walk daily will be very beneficial for any dog, which will be introduced in the complimentary training as well as other follow up training sessions if you decide to attend. If your dog is younger than 8 months old, I wouldn’t recommend you to take your dog for long distance running to prevent hind legs and hip injury. Walking, swimming, slow paced short distance hiking, low intensity agility training (like the one being offered once a month after the complimentary class) are recommended.
Challenges:
Some dogs may not want to eat while they are still adjusting to the new environment and it’s totally normal, and you do not need to worry too much. Ensure to provide the food and water on a schedule and do not free feeding. With scheduled feeding and food only be available for certain amount of time, it will not only help the dog during house training, it will also help you when you start the training as well, which will not be discussed in detail here. To learn more, feel free to sign up the newsletter here: http://eepurl.com/cL0tqH
Collar and Leash. Your dog should have collar and leash on even when it at home to help bonding, prevent bad behaviors, and prevent dog get lost as well (a dog drags a leash is always easier to be found and saved). Collar and Leash should be OFF the dog when you are not supervised the dog, and the dog should be in the crate when you are not there to watch it.
Tips:
A slip lead, a dominate collar or a choke chain may be used for quickly get the dog on leash when take the dog out during potty time and it also prevent the dog slip out of the leash when used correctly.
Collar for training. In the complimentary training, we will introduce a prong collar and leash pressure to the dog. When use it correctly, it will not harm the dog, they are simply communication tools between our dogs and us. Once the dog understand the collar and the leash pressure, you will find it to be very effective when you try to guide your dog when needed. A leash pressure specialty class (after you’ve attended complimentary class and have a fitted prong collar) is available, and you may sign up via meetup.com/keepingupwithgrace, the class will be more in depth on how to navigate the pressure and utilize it in real life situation.
Crate. I’m a big advocate on using crate properly and it will benefit for both you and your dog’s life. Crate is a safe place for the dog to rest, sleep and relax, it’s not a punish place nor jails. Dog should be in the crate when it’s not supervised.
Tips:
Rule of Thumb. Dog should sleep in the crate at night and do not allow free roam in the house till it at least 1 year old if you get it as a puppy. Dog should not free roam the house till it at least 2 year old if you get it as a puppy. If you get an adult dog, this time may vary. My dog still sleeps in his crate at night and stay in a playpen when he’s being left alone. I have him for over 2 years and he’s about 4.5 years old. Of course, you may say some dogs are fine being left alone and free roam the house, but here’s the thing, we don’t know if your dog is one of those pups that okay to be left alone with access to the entire house, or your dog may chew up something in your house, it’s not only very annoy, where it makes your crate training and prevention training harder in the future, but also, eat something the dog shouldn’t could totally harm your dog or even cause death depending on what it has swallowed. So, why risk it?
Young dog can sleep around 14 hours a day, so have it relax and sleep in the crate after exercise, meals, play time are also encouraging the positive association with the crate.
You may feed your dog in the crate as well to help with crate training.
Whine for bathroom? You will have to make judgment call on this as every dog is different. If your dog is whining for 20 mins then got quiet, then whine again in an hour, it might need to use bathroom.
Always wait till the dog stop whining, then open the crate and take it to the bathroom.
Challenge:
Dog is more than likely will whine in the crate the first several nights and/or when it being left alone, the best thing to do is to ignore and do not let it out. It’s not separation anxiety till you make it become one when you let the dog out while it’s whining or scratching the crate, the dog will learn whine louder and fight harder next time when it try to get something else from you, so don’t fall for it, and yes, I know, it could be discomfort and heartbroken when you hear the whines. As long as you follow the rules and work on the crate training, and daily structures, the crying in the crate will not last very long, and your dog will learn to love the crate. If this continue to be a challenge, attend training and reach out to me.
Training. Training starts before the dog is home. Be prepared both mentally and physically, it could be a lot of work, lol
Tips:
I always encourage people attend the complimentary training right away, but I also understand sometimes it could be a little overwhelmed not just for the dog, but for the owners. When the owners get frustrated, the dog gets frustrated, I’ve seen owner got inpatient and mad, I’ve seen owner crying in the class, if you feel unsure, take a deep breath and relax, and keep trying. You may always attend the training and have your dog aside do it at your own pace.
A lot of owners ask if they should go to training if they only have the dog for several days, this is really depending on the dog. If your dog is really really shy, the class might be overwhelming to it especially when you are unsure of the situation. However, as we currently only offer complimentary training once a month (more training will be offered soon) if you are not able to enroll formal training but rather wait a month to attend the next complementary training, a dog could have developed bad behavior and it could make you very frustrated, and feel the next training is such a long wait. I know this not only because we receive emails from adopters all the time when they have the dog for couple of weeks, the owners start encountering some challenges, but also my own experience of my personal dog, not going in details here.
Your whole family needs to be consistent and on the same page. If you are training your dog not to steal your food off the plate, but your children is secretly feeding the dog under the table, your efforts is being sabotaged without you knowing if you know what I mean ;)
Challenge:
Some of our dogs maybe shy or a little fearful of their surroundings, which makes house rules/structures (such as crate training, meal time, structured walk, threshold exercise) and using balanced training even more important. Tough love is especially needed for those shy and fearful dogs.
State of Mind. Training obedience is just part of the training, but it doesn’t solve all behavioral challenges, help the dog to have the calm mind sometimes could be more crucial in the training as well.
Socialization. Dog park is not the answer, especially for the shy dogs. I’ve always encourage dog owners to do structured walk instead of go to dog park, as sometimes, one bad experience (being bullied by other dogs, play too rough got bitten) could have your dog troubled for a really long time. Start with places with low distractions, then adding distractions along the way when training continues.
Sign up “Bones For Thoughts - Dog Training & More” Newsletter and receive a complimentary consultation session with me.














