Lavender Fairy

[lady-asteira]

[lady-asteira]

(со страницы https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzTizd9Df20)

[supersailormars]

Sailor Moon fuku tutorial time!

This wont be the whole thing, and as I update, I’ll transfer this to a more permanent page to be found via the links above. I just don’t feel like sleeping right now even though I have work in the morning @_@;

Since I’ve been meaning to do this, and I have no plans to finish my Pluto fuku until August.. here is something to keep you guys occupied and sewing! :)

You will need:

A pattern (I prefer the Green Pepper Crystal Lake pattern, but Kwiksew has one, and I am sure there are others. I prefer this one because it is the easiest and only has one seam down the back)

4 way stretch fabric of your choice. I prefer matte fabric.

Cotton fabric of your choice

Quilt batting (or a sheet of upholstery foam)

interfacing

lace trimmings (if you’re making a character that needs lace)

bias tape (3 yards should do)

spandex tape(this will vary according to your costume)

I am not giving measurements of yardage because that will vary according to your costume. For the bodice, do buy half a yard more of the white fabric so you can make your empire waist.

Step 1: Trace your pattern, modify it to have a deep V and perhaps a deeper neckline. Put it over the fabric and cut. Then follow the directions of your pattern for sewing… DO NOT SEW THE SLEEVES SHUT, HOWEVER….

Then, follow the above step again, but this time you are going to make a crop top that is going to sit on top of your bodice (another layer). CUT IT to to the shape you want your underbust seam to look like. (Make sure you fold the pattern in half first, so you are doing a little less work. I’ll be sure to make a diagram of this in the future.)

Sew it up the back, use a zig zag stitch and hem the raw edge you made for the underbust, and then fit it over the rest of your fuku. NOW you can sew the sleeves together at the top.

What you will do with that ugly zig zag hem is fold it inwards, TWICE, that way nobody can see it.

You should have this:

I don’t know if you can see it so good in this picture, but there it is. I like to hand stitch it to the bodice so it stays in place (since we did just fold it two more times, inward to great thickness and to hide the stitches). I’ll try to get better pictures in the future to show what I mean.

Now you’re going to work on the hip rolls. What I like to do is use two separate pieces of fabric - this will vary depending on your measurements, how low you are making your V, etc.

This is where your quilt batting comes in. Measure two strips of batting so they are about two inches thick - You want to cut them so that the ends are like pointy roof tops. (I’ll obviously demonstrate this better in the final tutorial) Fold the batting in half and sew. You’ll get something that looks like:

Afterwards, wrap this in some fabric as tightly as you can without it looking punched up. Pin and sew. I use my zipper foot for this so I can get a super close seam.

Pin and sew to your fuku.

^^ I used a little bit too much batting at the way tips for this fuku… it is really best if you have little to NO fabric where the two rolls meet so you don’t have to worry about puckering, or one hip roll battling it out to be in the center while the other sorta drifts to the side.

The V really matters because it will determine where the stitches will fall as you sew (using your zipper foot, of course). Lets compare the two Vs I have…

^ Above is last year’s V, which I am VERY VERY proud of. Look how heart shaped it is! I had NO batting at the way end of the V where you see that fine point.

THIS YEAR’S V (which was the one pictured previously as demonstration), has a wee bit too much fabric…

I am probably being too critical, because this V is also nice.. it’s just different. What do you guys think?

Anyway.. that’s it for today. :) Of course, I will make a much more organised tutorial later on in the year. For now, you’ll have to read them as installments.

[supersailormars]

Seifuku empire waistline using self bias, bow application time!

Okay, this cosplay is coming along nicely despite the bumps in the road I endured with my sailor collar experiments.

So from day one, I mentioned that you would want to make an extra “top” out of the pattern if you’re using the Crystal Lake skating dress pattern which you would then attach via the two seams at the shoulders and then when you hem the sleeveless edges… So that leaves you with a bodice that has an extra layer with a zig zag seam a bit below where an empire waist ought to be. You can leave it, but I much prefer as few visible threads as possible - so pin that and turn it inward like so.

Follow this up by folding it in again - think of hemming a pair of jeans. Same process.

Here is the annoying part… WHIP STITCH… but only in sections so you can have stretch. The goal here is to make sure not one stitch is visible, so be slow and patient. I whip stitched the front (entire front), and then stitched a few inches in the back.

You can see a little bit in the below picture where I accidentally went all the way through with the thread when I was whip stitching by hand. Try not to poke the top most layer of fabric with your needle. The goal is invisibility.

Now, you remember the bows? Time to put those on. The back bow, obviously goes over the V. I like to whip stitch the back bow right where the V is (you can see my thread hanging down) on both sides of the center of the bow so it sits even against the bodice. If you look closely, you can also see some pins towards the waist, where the bows stick out from the dress form. I sew there, also, because interfacing just isn’t enough to support the weight of the bow.

Same process for the front bow, but with some more stitching… center, sides, and the front tail to maintain shape. You can figure out on your own where these stitches should sit and how you want the tails of your front bow to sit on your chest.

And done!

:)

Next will be the boots… and then pictures of New York Comic Con!!!!

[supersailormars]

Sailor Moon fuku tutorial time! part 2.

Alrighty, so last time we left off with a bodice and hip rolls. Now let’s go on to the skirt.

You will need

Tailor chalk

pins

4 feet of bias tape

ruler

If you have the kwik sew or green pepper patterns, you can follow the skirt pattern from there and just cut that out. I like to use a true circle skirt because I feel that it is fuller and I have more room to manipulate pleats and length. So, to make a circle skirt you should know your hip measurements - since we will be pleating a LOT you want to make the waist of the skirt a bit bigger. I usually start out with a waist line circumference of my own waist measurements and then as I cut away to create the length I want, the waist gets bigger… and bigger… and bigger. Basically you don’t have to measure accurately with this. You’ll see why.

So, fold your fabric four times so that you have a corner that will make up where the waist of your skirt shall be. I don’t have any pictures of this step, but practice with a piece of paper. Fold it four times, and measure little circles(or google/youtube it). Eventually you will end up with this:

Perfect circle.. Now what is that red stuff? That is bias tape (maybe there is another name for it, but that is what I have always called it). Anyway, I am told you don’t really need bias tape to hem a circle skirt, but I find it gives you much more control of the hem. You will pin it all along the edge of your skirt… and SEW. No folding/hemming yet.

After you have sewn it once, you’re going to fold along the hem and pin that, iron it down.. then fold once more time to get rid of the raw edge of the fabric.. pin, iron. sew.

After that, you can then pin to your bodice and see how it sits, or if it is very long (like mine is in the pictures) you’re going to trim from the WAIST… this will make the inner circumference much larger, but you’ll get a nice skirt length that YOU want and pretty pleats. I chopped my skirt down to about 13 or 14 inches…

Now, this step takes a lot of patience and work. I often get to this part and decide I will never make fukus again (but of course, I change my mind after I finish).  This is usually when I use my eye and add the pleats in as I sew. You’re actually better off doing this with the garment flat(not on a dressform) as you will have more control over how the skirt sits. Usually, you want a box pleat in the front, and then knife pleats on the sides that face each other. Make sure you have raw edge to raw edge. Before sewing with my machine, I like to hand sew the skirt on and see how it looks. Also, you will notice… to get that high hip effect with the skirt and pleats, I actually have more fabric in the front and back than on the sides. This is the magic of having a longer circle skirt. Whatever length you don’t want - get rid of it when you attach it. Think the skirt could lose 2 inches? Okay, just make sure you have 2 inches taken in at the seam. PS: Make sure the butt has extra fabric to protect your dignity!

And there you have it. This always takes me a few tries to get it just perfect.

Next will be the bows…. since I already have a sloppy tutorial somewhere of the collar. I promise I will eventually archive this into a nice neat page elsewhere on the blog, complete with drawings to make things more clear for you guys.

[costumefilms]

Orlando (1992) - Tilda Swinton as the protagonist wearing a black page boy costume, decorated by vinyl inserts and bows.

The costumes were designed by Sandy Powell.

[lady-asteira]

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[lady-asteira]

[lady-asteira]

[princerits]

Do androids dream of electric sheep Photo by tiuoz-san

[nicolas-de-rascole]

Our outfits for Gothic&Lolita picnic 2016. Inspired by Fêtes galantes.

[nicolas-de-rascole]

Our outfits for FAP 2016 inspired by classical art. I wanted to create men’s jacket in “Juliette et Justine“ style. My outfit - totally our handmade. My wife’s outfit is also totally our handmade except Moi-même-Moitié blouse. Many thanks to Captain John for photos.

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