2 sessions in Malibu 1 session in Venice
W/NW swell was wrapping into Malibu. I should have gone to county, but I was still recovering from costa rica and decided to take it easy. Went out on a cloudy day, at 3rd point. The waves were longer-period and rolling in slowly. The crowd was pretty heavy since most of the spots were maxing. The session overall was pretty lackluster. I was feeling stiff, didn’t really bend into my turns and was showcasing all the fundamental problems I’m trying to overcome subconciously. Wave count was around 5-7, concentration level was bad, I was being reactive instead of proactive. Forgettable session.
This was the day after. Morning session was pretty similar, I surfed half the time at 3rd, then the rest of the time at Joes. 3rds was terrible, Joes, which I havent surfed in a while, was actually pretty fun. It was pretty broken up and all over the place with some sketchy drops but it felt good to push off and go left. I decided to hang around and do an evening session, which turned out to be super fun. Around 3pm I went out at 2nds and the crowd factor was low, sets were coming in slowly but stayed open and were fun. Since I was warmed up from the morning, I ended up staying low and grinding on the turns. Took 7-12 waves with a couple being quite fun, little runnners all the way. The main take away I have right now is that the bottom turn front side is the most important thing for me at this point. Whatever I’m doing, I need to get the frontside bottom turn to a point where I’m confident and happy with this. Once I get that, a lot of future surfing will fall into place.
Had a late morning session at venice, on a NW swell, shoulder to head high, which, surprisingly, ended up being much more fun than expected....which I needed at that moment in time. I stayed a little off the breakwater, took the inside sections down the line. I’ve switched back to the Robert dump truck from the coil and it feels good. I think I took about 12-15 waves and was out there for a while.
Takeaways:
I’ve been surfing 15 years+ I can honestly say, every single surf session I have had, I’ve come away unsatisfied because I’m trying to improve on something. That may sound ridiculous, or ludicrous even, but that does not mean I haven’t enjoyed every session. For me, being able to bottom turn both sides, crack the lip and go down the line is essential to the true essence of surfing. Every time I see a young kid churning out 3 turns on a short wave, I get inspired and motivated to keep at it. This is the only way you achieve your goals and get past your plateaus.
- Focus on what you want to improve
- Next time, proactively before every wave, remember the things you want to improve
For now, right now, all I want to do is take off and turn hard frontside, regardless if its a close out or a good wave. Like hitting a forehand in tennis against a wall. Lets see how it goes.
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