Long before food was a commodity bought and sold for profit, no act of food production, from harvesting, growing, preparing, preserving, storing, cooking, baking, was left unblessed by womenâs prayers, rituals and devotions. And for most of human history nearly every domestic activity from making pots to planting seeds to baking bread was ritual âhearthcraftâ. And to put it very simply, womenâs food magic had one central purpose, to honour and nourish the great mother of all â who in turn nourished them.
The loss of reverence for the earth desacralized our food. And for women it meant being severed from the rituals which brought us together, from which we drew nourishment, meaning and spiritual sustenance. Women no longer gather communally to harvest with prayer and song, but shop harried and alone in corporate superstores, and the kitchen is a place where we consume the processed and fast foods that suit our busy lifestyles.
So  I canât help but wonder if this has anything to do with why, from perpetual dieting to eating disorders, to an obsession with âwatching what we eatâ, modern women have such a complicated relationship with food?
In their book From Betty Crocker to Feminist Food Studies: Critical Perspectives on Women and Food, Arlene Avakian and Barbara Haber write women today are suffering from an internal conflict, in which âour hidden hungersâ, âthe sensual pleasures of food and cooking are all too often obscured by the increasing demands of careers, families, battles over body image, and the desire for a life outside the âtraditionalâ domain of the kitchen.â
And they point out that feminism has been of little help sorting it all out. Womenâs history scholars are more interested âin setting straight the public record on womenâs achievementsâ. And feminist scholarship on food has largely focused on âwomenâs food pathologies, such as anorexia, bulimia, and other eating disordersâ and ignored cooking âas if it were merely a marker of patriarchal oppression and, therefore, not worthy of attention.â
But thatâs why I find womenâs earliest food history so fascinating. Author and scholar Christine Downing eloquently describes how women role in food production was considered sacred. Women were linked with food not only because they cultivated and prepared it, but also because their own bodies, like the great goddess, were a source of food and life.
And despite our long association with food, cooking and the kitchen as disempowering drudgery, this wasnât always the case. Growing evidence in the fields of anthropology suggests that womenâs early place by the hearth may have had nothing to do with the centuries of domestic oppression that followed. Because long before women ate last at the table (and maintained their trim figures) long before cooking was part of an invisible unpaid economy, women had control over the crops they harvested, cultivated, cooked and consumed.
Turns out a womanâs place in the kitchen was likely once at the centre of a very different economy â one that granted them autonomy and spiritual authority.  As Eleanor Leacock writes in Womenâs Status in Egalitarian Society, women in hunter gatherer cultures lived in societies where âissues of status are irrelevant because both women and men produce goods and services for their own useâŠand hence control their own lives directly.â
These early food economies are often referred to as âgift-givingâ meaning no one had to âpayâ to eat. Because long before food became a commodity it was a sacred gift of the earth, who as a mother fed all her children equally, no matter their class, status, or gender. Â And she gave freely to all of her forests, fields, rivers and oceans.
It was the shift to ownership of crop and land (usually by an elite class of landholders and the Church) that spelled the end of the gift economy. Â And according to feminist economist Silvia Federici, what this meant for women was that they no longer had access to land, and control over the crops they cultivated. Now âtheir work and their sexual and reproductive powers were placed under the control of the State and transformed into economic resourcesâ. Mostly unpaid.Â
So hereâs the big question. What if cooking in these early economies was far from drudge work assigned to the lesser sex? What if it was originally a source of womenâs empowerment? What if it provided fellowship, and an avenue of creative, artistic and spiritual expression? What if eating and feasting were celebratory occasions to honour the life-sustaining gifts of the earth, opportunities for women to nourish and pleasure themselves?
Today women struggle with perpetual diets, bread is a âforbidden foodâ and we do our best not to âlose controlâ during times of holiday feasting. Oprah may have bought Weight Watchers to help women be their âbest selvesâ, but maybe weâre hungering for something we can no longer even name? The way I see it, the âherstoryâ of food isnât the old well-worn tale of women being oppressed by their place in the kitchen. Quite the opposite. Itâs about reclaiming our age-old power as caretakers and nurturers of the earth, of each other â not to mention ourselves.
THE MAGICAL HERSTORY OF FOOD