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Hart+Leshkina

wandering-bears

Maurits Wiesenekker

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UFO, Palermo

Los Angeles, 2014

Dirk Van Saene autumn—winter 1998—99.

He renamed his Fake Tailoring collection for Winter 1998—1999 the Black Sissi collection for his catalogue, and had the garments photographed on a black dummy, against the gemütlich decor of the Austrian Alps.

Anyone looking for some fixed, logical development in his sequence of collections will not find it. Some samples of the ‘Van Saene Variations’: in theFake Tailoring collection lapels and collars had seams and separate pattern sections worked into the clothing. These sober and elegant ‘etched’ pieces had been preceded a season earlier by a hectic Transformations collection (Summer 1998), in which nothing was what it seemed, each item could be transformed into something else or worn in very different ways. During the show, the ‘transformation ‘of the models did not take place behind the scenes: they were dressed, made up, had their hair done, on the runway, in full view of the public.

Dirk Van Saene: I base my collections on craftsmanship. I use the wildest ideas to put craftsmanship to the test. When I’m finalising my prototypes I’m constantly faced by technical problems. I’m always searching for the best solution. It might be very traditional but could be something completely new. It doesn’t matter a bit. It’s the result that counts.

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